FROM CORCOVADO PEAK

Dominion, Volume 4, Issue 1162, 24 June 1911, Page 6

FROM CORCOVADO PEAK

SUNNY RIO DE JANEIRO. 'TWEEN MOUNTAINS AND GLEAMING TIDE. A NOTABLE CITY AND HARBOUR. [By E. N. Aujiit.] Ever since Affonso de Souza sailed into that long, semi-tidal indentation'on the southern coast of Brazil and imagined it to be another river, the loveliness and majestic beauty of Rio de Janeiro Harbour have been renowned. To extol its peculiar grandeur and infinite variety of scene—rugged, precipitous mountains, palm-crowned isles "lying in dark-purplo spheres of sea," sandy beaches, river mouths, peaceful bays with a wealth of tropic vegetation often down to the water's edge, and its stately drives, would now be superfluous. Even to attempt a pen-picture that shall be at once adequate and faithful is a stroke of temerity. Inevitably the old comparison with Sydney. suggested itself, and opinion among the R.M.S. Tongariro's company as the ship anchored two to three miles from the frowning masses of granite at the entrance, was divided. Port Jackson has perhaps an equal expanse of water; it has probably, a greater wealth of' picturesque coves and bays; it has. certainly moro homely associations for the English or colonial visitor, who meets there no difficulty about haggling with Portuguese or Brazilian boatmen in thoir own tongue. Both harbours aro crowded with ships of all nations, and a flotilla of pretty sailing' craft. ' ' • . But Rio de Janeiro has several points of superiority as will be apparent to ono who bases his comparison merely on the natural formation and appearance of the two harbours. It is'more gn.nci and imposing in its approaches, and on each side is flanked by mountains whoso -remarkablv bold summits aro lost in the tossing clouds. These give to Rid a pertain wild and "foreign" beauty which Sydney cannot claim. Under a wnrm', brilliant sun-for the capital of Brazil is just within the tropic of Capricorn—Km de Janeiro presents a more varied and impressivo panorama; but under a calm, starry «k>\ it would be difficult to choose between them. Both display long, bright lines of many-coloured lights on tho posite shores; but tho tropical raiment c . night in Rio de Janeiro—;nr;y black in its intensity—emphasises the brilliancy of the lights and their wavering bands of reflection, mingling with momentary flashes' of phosphorescent' luminosity .on-.■■the waves. On the other hand, Rio has not the numerous ferries that pass like, illuminated palaces to and fro on Port Jackson, making tht water about Mosman Bay and Circular Quay one blaze oi light and quivering, bands. But then tlv "starry pendants" that hang over de Janeiro at night seem to shine with .. steadier glow than those over Sydney. Seen from midstream, the city of Rio de Janeiro ,with its cluster of minarets,*towcrs, and white domes, its terrace? of gardens and stone houses climbing up the slopes and backed by high rocky masses.' is more picturesque than Sydney viewed from the deck of a ferry steamer. Justlv, however, aro opinions' divided,

Mountainous Approaches.. Ships engaged in the New Zealand trade give the coast of Brazil' a fairlv wide berth in coming, up from Monte' Video: It was accordingly the morning of arrival before tho skylino was broken to the north-west by mountainous' land. 'Several bare rocky islands appeared-ahead, and.thoso were just off the entrance or Rio 'Harbour. , Wedge-shaped Raza, with a northward slope, stood .270 feet out ot the water, and was surmounted bv » flashing light visible for twenty-four miles. It forms one side of a channel two miles wid-e, with Redonda—another rockv hill 726 feet high—on the other side. To the left, as the ship approi-ehes, was the high Sierra do Carioco, a series of rugged peaks over 2000 feet ; high, 'marking the limit of the eastern plateau of Brazil, and breaking down to the shore in easy declivities, wooded valleys, and irregular bluffs. Father and Mother Islands,'both small, are soon abeam at the eastern side of the .'harbour entrance, and the ship Tides through a channel scarcely threequarters of a mile wide. On thr western side (Rio Harbour extsnds. almost dn* north and south) is an extraordinary peak 1236 feet high—the famous Pao do Acucar or Sugar Loaf. It stands alone, has a comparatively small base, with a steep southward slope and a vertical, verging to concave, cliff on its harbour aspect. Surmounting its "bald, awful" head, like a conical apex, is a-long,while pole, but how anybody succeeded in scaling such a peak was a mystery. It is a conspicuous landmark for miles, and there is an old fortification at the- base. ■'■ Immediate- 1 Iy within the harbour and almost dividing the channel is a small granite island, rising out of the water like a turtle's back for no more than about twelve feet. This is the Fort .Santa Cruz,..aud. one observes borings in its sides for big guns. Opposite to this (on the yeastem side of the entrance) is another grimlooking fort, with thick masonry built into the solid granite, and commanding the whole harbour and approaches. Deep water surrounds the shin, the least depth at tho entrance being 51 fathoms. Then the harbour opens out on each side into sandy bays; the city, hitherto obscured by mountain masses, comes into view- on the eastern side, and annears to nestle at the base of the range,-"steamers of all descriptions throng.tho bav, and numerous wooded islands appear to the north and cast. It was a sultry, day, tempered by a cool breeze off the sea ' ■

Between Mutinous Battleships, Lying at anchor round the Tongariro were some of the finest fighting shins of the Brazilian navy-the most powerful of South America, These included the two Dreadnoughts, Sao Paolo and Minas Ceraes, which were concerned in the recent disaffection, and shelled the town, after a mutiny among tho crews. Tho former is a smart modern ship painted dull green all over, and is the work t.* Viekers, Sons and Maxim. Her armament is formidable. A-HI He further ahead the Minns Ceraes, of I?l,(i00 tons, the largest Dreadnought afloat, presented a drab bluish-green mass, and "is a splendid fighting vessel, of somewhat different build. Closer inshore wore several cruisers of various types and classes, also a number of. torpedo-destroyers. Boom ! rang out a salute, aiul a big bnttlrshin was observed steaming into the harbour. At her stern was the Stars and Strines, and sho was just arriving from New York. She had lesser beam than the Brazilian Sao Paolo, lying complacently off the town; her green national flag with a yellow circle in tho upper corner waving lazily astern. Adjoining tho American's smoke-stacks were two indestructible towors of steel framework, and she was destitute of masts. The salue reverber-ated-among tho mountains, and was reechoed from Hie deop-throated guns of Santa Cruz. Slowly she came to an anchorage, a couple of hundred yards away from the Toiigariro. Going ashore in ' tho tender or a rowing boat, one passes a small island covered in nearly its whole extent by a whito building in a nretontious style-of Gothic architecture; this is Rat Island,, and the Customs House. Opposite it, on an elevated ridge lining the shore, is the old Royal Palace, now used as a naval and military barracks.' The structure- is of four stories, forming two sides of an oblong, and has no architectural distinction. What made it interesting was the havoc wioueht by shells from the Sao. Paolo and Minas Ceraes. Here and there were great holes in the brickwork and masonry, whilo the eartli .and protective works had been torn and overthrown. Near the corner, one shell had pierced the wall of tho barracks at an angle, continued through tho building, and then penetrated the other wall from inside, dislodging bricks, mortar and stone bv the cubic yard. When tho writer was'there a gang of workmen had started repairs. Attached to the barracks is a landingstage, defended by a mounted rotarv gun, and tho muzzle of it almost yawns at you on reaching the adjoining stone quay.

"Electric" Atmosphere. This is an early impression of Brazil - the preparedness for fight at any moment. Even the police, who nnpear to" be better men physically that tho.-c of Monte Video, are armed with tho latest American revolver-. Squads of militia are to be seen paradine the main streets. There are strong fortifications further up

the harbour, and warships are generally handy in tlie event of trouble. At the tune the atmosphere was "electric" because of the treatment ot the naval ringleaders by the Government. These two battleships had for a while held the city at their mercy; they demanded from the House of Representatives, then sitting, that, a law be enacted conceding the demands of the mutineers, and granting them free pardons for shelling tho city and for shooting their lawful commanders. Twenty-four hours was given Parliament to make up its mind, "at the mouth of tho gun.'' While it deliberated, (ho crash of shells was heard; if the mutineers' demands were not acceded, to, they intended, to take the Se.o Paolo and Minns Ceraes !o sea. and sink them. Tho position was desperate. Shells were flying at. the President's horse. The Government, did not want the forts to attempt to destroy its own shins—the finest in tho navy—and the other ships were simply incapable of engaging a Dreadnought. Moreover, there was a good deal of sullen sympathy with tho mutineers. Of cours?, tho law was passed, the signs! was given, and the firing consort. Promptly, when tho mutinous crews landed, the ringleaders wore taken into custody. It was commonly rumoured that the law hail been annulled, and that tho leaders were to bo quietly shot. .Hence tho preparedness for trouble. Native Brazilians were sore about the whole occurrence; tho Argentine, between which and Brazil no love is lost, laughed derisively and long. The mutiny had been well organised; the men elected a leader who successfully manoeuvred tho ships round Rio harbour, while they were being steamed bv British engineers, who. of course, had nothing to do with the disaffection. At the time of the Tongariro's visit, however, (earlv in April) tho navv was ouiet and the "malcontents overawed.. The tension did not interfere in any way with travellers' inspection of tho citv.

A Glorious Panorama. Towering 2300 feet above the city of Rio de Janeiro, Corcovado Mountain presents a naked precipitous peak which is often lost to sight in billowy clouds. To reach tho summit, one takes tram for part of the way, this stage of. the journey occupying about forty minutes, and then- an electric train up the slopes. Along the- route is 'a. magnificent stone aqueduct, built in noble massive arches; this conducts Rio's water-supply down from the mountains. The vegetation is wonderful; fruits grow wild in the jungle, and one espies bananas, walnuts, pineapples, and mangoes. Splendid palmtrees abound. Birds whose names it would be difficult to remember display exomsite plumage of green and red, golden and pink, blue and purple, in combinations the most gorgeous and flaring. Of Hie same description are great butterflies which Sit about the fruits and flash wings of velvety purple, orange-golden, rich cream, -deep indigo, opalescent, matchless blue and other brilliant hues innumerable. Everywhere life is rich and luxuriant. Upwards tho track climbs slowly; here a wide bay with islands in the distance, bursts into view; there superb terraced mansions with lawns and gardens; Silvestre, where we joined the railway, is far beneath/ Up further do we mount towards the clouds; mail liners look like toys. on. the bay; the city spreads - out' in -large handsome squares and the admirable proportions :of the Avenida Central are conspicuous. The train stops,.but this is not the top. I'urtlier upwards yet is an irregular stono stairway cut out of the face of the peak, which we must climb for ourselves; tho summit has been approached on the easiest declivity of the mountain, but only an airship or an elevator could take us further. We therefore toil slowly np those • granite steps to a pretty summerhouse which crowns the highest height. What a sceho! One can only gaze in almost silent admiration for its extraordinary diversity and majesty; its evidences of .volcanic forces exerted- at some remote ago when the South American mainland was bcintr formed. Down over the promenade rail, was that naked precipice whose depth makes one start Not far from the base of the mountains! on the harbour side, were the grim battlements of Ports San Juan and Santa Cruz: There lay the Minos Ceraes and hao laolo, like nursery Dreadnouihts. Across the bay was the suburb of Nitheroy and tiny specks of ferries were pa*s>ng to_and fro... Small islands appeared in l- 0R H:e ".Wfallino waters of the Atlantic. Far along the shores of the harbour.ones eyes wandered for fourteen miles to its remotest reaches, .where streaks of silver mnrked the course of tributary rivers losing themselves in mazes on golden sands. Pleasant water-ing-places with avenues of palms there were on various parts of the coast. Truly '

Earth has not anything to show more tair; Dull would he lie of soul who could pass by A sight so touching in its' majesty/ .