OUR YORKSHIRE LETTER.

Dominion, Volume 2, Issue 481, 14 April 1909, Page 10

OUR YORKSHIRE LETTER.

WOOL WASTES. (FROM OUll SPECIAL CORUESPONDENT.) London, February 2G. Wool wastes and tho trade in them forms a big business, and as tho very namo implies, wastes are by-produtcs as it were of the various operations through which wool goes. Waste is real wool itself, except that it is the very short fibres which are produced from tho combing operation, in fact, thero is no process through which wool goes from combing to milliug but what it produces a by-product which cm be used in the production of certain classes of wool goods. For instance, just to givo readers some idea of the wasto that is produced in the different processes of manufacture, we get noils, shoddy (not pulled rags), somo people calling this card waste, which is simply produced in the combing operation; then there are wool burrs, backings, spinning waste, thread waste, tho last-named produced in weaving, and flocks from the milling operation. .Now these are valuablo by-products, they serve a most useful purpose, and turn out somo most useful and saleable fabrics, it would be most wilful wasto to throw them on to tho dung-hill and let them rot; in fact, how tliey would produce, for instanco, felt and silk hats without noils, or even flannels, 1 don't know. .Now nulls are a most useful product, and whereas today a super 60's top is selling at 24d. per lb., noils out of that self-same combing will bo worth from 13d. to 14d., according to crlour and tho amount of .vegetable matter there is in them. These bits of seed and shiv have only to bo removed by carbonising or extracting when we have leu a most useful article, and being still "all wool," they are very extensively used both in England and on tho Continent in the production of a large quantity of woollen fabrics, such .as shirtings, flannels, blankets, and ev:n in making silk and felt hats. Shoddy or ctrd wasto is a much inferior byproduct than noils, this being very dusty, and is always filled with bits of vegetable matter which adhere to the wool during the growth of tho fleece, and -which must como out Awing the process of the carding operation before the wool goes through the combing machine. This card wasto and wool burrs are oftentimes carbonised together, and when all tho bits of shiv and vegetable matter have been eplen away, then it is fit for use. Hero again the woollen trade absorbs this short-fibred material in the production of fabrics which have mostly to be piece dyed, simply because the stock is often a dull, dead colour, more or a brown greyshade than anything, although as a rule it scours a fair decent white. I'et experience has found that this kind of material is much better dealt with, and gives far more satisfactory results, if it is made into pieces which have to be dyed black, such as serges, vicunas, etc., and the writer has even sold these burrs and ,card waste when carbonised to a manufacturer producing box or livery cloths for coachmen and grooms, and also for the production of gaiter clotns. Backings are a very valuable by-product, and are the short bits of tops produced from the combing operation itself. Really speaking i': is top itself of from a foot to a yard in l-ngth, and these are sold at but. a few pence per lb. less than what tho top itself is worth. When these are put through a machine called a teazer, by which the fibres are pulled from together, we have then an article worth quite . as much as any scoured fleece wools, simply because these backings aro light, free, open, and clean. ' WASTE. Waste made by spinners and weavers is a totally different thing to anything made in the previous processes of manufacture, this taking, the shape of thread waste. When an end breaks in the, spinning frame it has to be vhat is known in the trade "piecened up," and in that operation, which is done by young girls, there is always a littlo of the thread waited. Tho same obtains in the weaving department when a weaver puts a full bobbin of weft into the shuttle or has to tie up a warp end that breaks loose. It is customary to take c-n empty bobbin of weft out of tho shuttle just before it runs off in order to have the pick of weft that goes across the pieco without any joining, consequently a few yards ai-e frequently wasted in this operation. Weavers uiE.ko what are known as "short ends," and it would bo foolish in tho extremo to destroy this useful waste. In the. case of worsteds, such' brrken pieces of warp and weft are all wool, only they have been through the, various processes of manufacture, consequently these aro taken and sold to waste pullers, or else i aken by the manufacturer and , reused. How is this done? Before theso short ends and threads of warp and weft can bo utilised they ht>\e to bo "pulled"; that is, .the fibres constituting the threads are reopened, this being dono on what is known as a garueting machine. This is a small machine constructed of i evolving cylinders, upon which project small sharp teeth. This thread wasto is passed slowly ihiough, tho teeth of the machine tearing: Irom pieces the thread, tho resuH boing that when it enmes out at the opposite end the niatcrhl is loose and free, just the same as ordinary wool, this being'then ready for using over for the production of yarns and pieces. FLOCKS. Then we come to flocks. This is not tho trade it once was, although in the process of milling pieces, flocks are made. Various uses are made of this kind of mill waste, tivwgh in celling flocks waste the term is more or less a misnomer. We all know that a feu- years bark there was hardly a bed mattress rr.ade but what was filled with Hocks, most of tlio ens', ions also for domestic and church wear being filled with the same. Even to-day a large number of bed mattresses are mado filled with flocks, though a much better, healthier, and sounder article is boing now produced made from horsehair. If the flocks are good ones, there is nothing injurious about their vise, and for certain purposes, where the cheapest cotton and wool fabric are made, flocks can be used. .However,, the staple of them is so short that they servo their best purpose in making beddings, etc. Now all theso wastes which have been detailed arise and are made in the various processes through which wool goes as it enters the scouring machine right to the finished fabric, and the ingenuity of man has fcund out a rightful use for the lot, nothing whatever being wasted. Of course, they help somewhat to cheapen the various woven materials which are consumed both by men and women, and bring within range of the a good, .serviceable fabric at a handy price. In the manufacture of under-garments tho same wool wastes have to be encountered; in fact, there is no branch of the textile industry but .what produces a few by-products, and these are all gathered up, classed, and reused somewhere or other. This seems to me to be the way of the world. In every calling and de- ■ partment of life a compensating principle is met with, and by observing this universal law ■ all sections are the gainers. What manufacturers /have to settle in dealing with either combing or locks is tho class of goods they are . most suitable for, and that is also the principle they work upon in handling the various ; descriptions of wool wastes.

IMPROVEMENT WELL MAINTAINED.

Tho past week's business has again been characterised by an excellent tone, the spirit displayed has been good, transatcions have boon numerous, and prices are all the turn higher. Since writing last the market has firmed up considerably, and business all round is decidedly better. Towards the end of last week there were large transactions, both in wool, tops, and yarns, there evidently being clone some speculation. Perhaps the most significant featuro of the markot w renewed activity in crossbreds, and the removal of all misgivings concerning the immediate future, tho principal feature here is not so much a marked rise in prices as renewed confidence, with large purchasing of raw materials. More attention has been given to both coarse and medium crossbreds by export yarn houses, and it is this feature which is the most satisfactory. For months shippers have been going lroin band to mouth in the expectation, and also not without some effort to depress prices but seeing all markets abroad were firming up has induced them to step to the front, and large purchases have been made. Good average •10 s tops cannot bo called worth anything less than 12d. per lb., and some are wanting a farthing more, but the former figure will Imy a good standard combing. Some good weights ot carded crossbred tops have lately been selling on Continental nccount, and even dry combed merinos are being shipped in fair quantities. There is little evidence of slackness anywhere with either topmakers or combers, practically all the latter running their machinery both day and night. Merinos aro hardening if anything, and although a big business has been done at 23W. for super GO's and 24',d for Ms, yet to-day's prices are 24d. and 25d.' for the qualities already quoted. There is still the samo keenness on the part of spinners to ta-e in deliveries, and fine wools wear a decidedly cheerful aspect. Spinners both of merinos anil crossbreds are in a better wav, nnd there is moro briskness with them. More particulars liftvo recently been coming in, which causes this department to assume moro cheerfulness, and if spinners can keep going full time, it will soon stimulate the entire -industry. Much better reports aro coming from both France and Germany, and it looks as if trade was now thoroughly on the mend. Mohair continues to be very slack and unprofitable; in fact, this department is the worst in the whole of the teitilp trade.