GOING NORTH.

Dominion, Volume 1, Issue 207, 26 May 1908, Page 5

GOING NORTH.

<- CERMAN NEW GUINEA. . AN INTERESTING DESCRIPTION. Under a cloudy sky, a strong southerly breeze follows us as we push our way over a rough sea from our homo in tho land of sunshine, north to an island where sunshine is almost unbearable. Before ,we see Gorman New Guinea (writes " Lois" in tho Sydney " Herald "), the heat becomes oppressive, and when we reach Friedichshoho and the port, Simpson Haven, we wonder why whito men live thero at all—unless, indeed, living is for them impossible in a more temperate climate. But the cocoanut is the attraction,'the ever-present coco-palm, which in. one way or another satisfies nearly every want of the native, and brings in so much money to the planter that ho desire Which money. can assuage need remain unsatisfied. He hear of one man who went to New Guinea poor, and of no account, and who-in a very tew. yoa,rs could travel to the old world and vie ; with millionaires. AVo talk with another who speaks almost with indifference of the thousands he must lose through what he calls 'this idiotic American business": next year will make up for :t. Evidently one may become'.rich in these tropjeal islands. But there are some things which money cannot ■ ™°ugh °ne may lounge all day in a verandah and leave work to those whose skins' are made for sunlight. Few of the white-clad men look healthy. Plantations of coco-palms extend along miles of shore, and the trees grow down .to the water s v edge. Here and there the brown roofs of native houses relievo the brilliant verdure, or a scarlet loin-cloth makes a bright' spot, on the lower, shore, but for the most part the eye rests upon a mass'of green, 5U l - ITe never see in Australia, except in a hothouse. The coco-palm will grow and I|ay without cultivation, and it receives very little, but it will certainly produce before the usual seven years, and bear more fruit' if weir cared for. Labour is the difficulty. It is hard to maker the' black man see any ■advantage in toil. He was never sentenced to gain his bread by the sweat of his brow, rnor taught that labour is prayer. Fish in the sea and fruit on the land supply his wants without much trouble to, himself—why .should lie work to make the white man rich? We heard only of one planter who has no trouble with his "labour." He keeps a fine drove of-pigs, and every Saturday, along with their regular pay, he gives his men a pig. Of such valuo, even in: New Guinea, is a good dinner! •

As tho ship nears tho great wharf at Simpson Haven,. a wharf that would' be a fine structure in any port, a crowd—black with a dash of white—awaits. us. Somo wear necklaces of sharks' teeth, others havo armlets of gaily-dyed fibre, many havo rings'in their ears and rolls in their noses; an old straw hat is a, mark!of distinction.. Ornament j s more important'than clothing, and tho pieco of. turkoy-red which covers their loins -seems all they desire or need. The woinen wear a 'littlo more a gay blouse or a shawl—and tho: soldiers, .to make' thehitruly military and somewhat .German, wear the regulation peaked, cap,j'-withr a red band, and when on duty carry, rifles.- Wo hear v a little murmur of of tho rifles. Tho white man is in;a small minority, :and the black.man has but a thin-veneer of civilisation over his innate, savagery. ■ ... ■ The white population -is made up mainly by officials-and missionaries'. ■ Thero are five or .six • of.. each •.of., these, to : one ordinary person/. and : a whito woman is a rara' avis -indeed; niore'.so by far'thau the bird of Paradise,'for we saw a groat.- 1 many skins of tho latter, as ornaments and offered'for salo, but only two or , threo puro; European women. One of these was a Russian. At a luncheon party. to which we were invited, the conversation was; parried; on. in several different 1 languages, and the nations represented. wore, wo found, nearly, as many as . the, guests themselves.; England, Scotland, Germany, Russia, /Italy,, Sweden, America,- and Australia each claimed one or nioro'of tho guests. ;. Though German/is'-tho- official .language,' many resi.dents, speak English.; ,They must learn some;it: to speak to their, employees, for there vis. ■no "pidgin" German. ,- Wo heard .orders given jn "pidgin", English-by men who know; English • no other way,, and. the half-cast-o .wile of a German .official regretted to us. that ..her littlo boy,, a bright; dusky littlo •follow, wis- learning to talk- English. " like the .natives."- Tho" toiio was contemptuous. Tho broad-roofed.bungalows, -undor tho waving palms, .and the gay gardens of tho little settlements in: New. Guinea 1 are- attractive, but; offer many problems to those who look below tho. surface. Wo woro glad when ■we) saw. tho last, of them, and started to go farther, north to the islands of, Magellan, tho long, known and'settled - Philippines.