SHORTAGE OF MATERIALS FOR CLOTHING INDUSTRY

Chronicle (Levin), 25 October 1946, Page 7

SHORTAGE OF MATERIALS FOR CLOTHING INDUSTRY

Some of the factors. affecting the manufacture and supply of garments to the public were referred to by Mr.^ A. M. Hollander, chairman of the New Zealand Council of Garment Manufacturers' Eederation, in his annual report to that organisation. The process of recovery and reeonversion in many of the overseas supplying countries has been much slower than it has been in New Zealand and for this reason the supply of many of our raw materials is as critical now as it was at any stage during the war, he said. Reports reaching New Zealand from the Uuited Kingdom indieate that it will be some time yet before an improvement in the supply of cottou piece goods can be expected, and the supply of woollens from -both Britain and Australia is still very difficult. The newer rayon and nylon industries are making niore rapid recovery. Both garment manufacturers and the public are eagerly anticipating tne eoming into the market -of some of the newer fashion fabrics of synthetic materials, many of whieh are still in their experimental stage as far as production is concerned. "I cannot emphasise too strongly the extent to which we are dependent on adequate supplies of ' raw materials to provide full employment for present factory staffs and to keep up the uninterrupted flow of manufactured garments from our factories," added Mr. Hollander. Oue of the wartime" controls whieh kffeeted the industry: was the manpower control which' was Temoved in January last. With the freedom of movement of staff . which resulted it was inevitab'lq that a 'certain number of . operatives should move t away from the garment industry,,; but .taken dyer the whole of the indystry the result of the remoyal of the"r declaratioicx,.of essentiality has not been so drastic as was antieipated. There has, however, been a considerable * "loss of female workers from the industry, due not only to the removal of the.. control but also to the fact that numbers of older women who continued in employment during the war years have now given up their positions, and large numbers of younger women have also left employment to take up duties in the home following the return of men froin overseas. In common Avith other industries the clothing industry which employs a large proportion of female operatives is seriously short of staff in all seetions and this is oue of the important reason s why essential, items of clothing are not being produced in greater numbers. As an indication of the present position, the ligures which were compiled by the Natioual Employment Service as at April 15, I&46, showed that notiiied vacancies in clothing manufacturing industries represented 28 per cent. of the total pay roll streugths at that date. The vacancies for female workers were 31.7 per cent. of the number ■ of the pay rolls, an(l for males, 8 per cent. Oue feature which arises out of the general shortage of staff and which is of considerable conce'm to the council ■is the tendency to advertise offers of extravagant wages or amenities as a measure to attraet staff. It should be clearly stated, that, contrary to a popu--lar misconception, this tendency is by no means limited to the garment industry nor even to manufacturing industries in general. This industry is strongly in favour of an economically high level of wages. and of the provision of all reasonable factory amenities, for staffs. The large seale advertising of what might be termed ' unusual or extravagant wages or amenities does not result in any overall increase in staff. On the contrary, unless the conditions are such that they promote increased production (in which case they should be regarded as genuine and neeessary) they must in the majority of cases increase cost of production and the final selling price. One further development which is of comparatively recent origin in this country is the employment of males as machinists in the garment industry, in positions which have hitherto been regarded as the work of females. Considerable numbers of males have been successfully employed and the nature of the work is such that the industry is able to assist partially disabled men.