Notable Record As Climber

Press, Issue 31095, 25 June 1966, Page 1

Notable Record As Climber

Mr John Harrison was one of New Zealand’s most experienced and skilful alpinists, with outstanding climbs in New Zealand and overseas.

With Sir Edmund Hillary he climbed Mount Makalu in the Himalayas in June, 1961. He organised the rescue of SubLieutenant Peter Mulgrew, who had been injured in the Himalayas on the expedition.

As a member of the highaltitude medical research team he climbed to about 25,750 ft and spent 10 days above 24,000 ft without oxygen.

Mr Harrison did his early

techniques. He made the second ascent of Mount Erebus with a United States party, the first since that by Captain R. F. Scott. He was a member of the party which made the first ascent of Mount Tasman by the Balfour rib. Mr Harrison was the immediate past-chairman of the Canterbury-Westland section of the New Zealand Alpine Club. He was a member of the Canterbury Mountaineering Club, and on a combined club sub-committee to raise funds for high-level-rescue equipment to be based at Mount Cook and Frank Josef.

He took a prominent part in alpine instruction courses in different parts of the country for some years. Tributes to Mr Harrison were paid by climbing associates throughout New Zealand yesterday. Sir Edmund Hillary said that Mr Harrison was able to combine highly effective climbing with a sound appreciation of safe climbing practices. He was interested and active in search-and-rescue organisation and training, and in helping’ other persons.

“I don’t think John would ever have got into that sort of a situation for anything other than an emergency,” Sir Edmund Hilfary said. Mr Harry Ayres, a former Mount Cook guide, said that Mr Harrison’s death was one of the most tragic mountaineering accidents in New Zealand’s history. “He was a gentleman on the mountain and off it. I’m sure my feelings are shared by all who knew him. His life was lost in vain in the course of what he knew to be his duty,” Mr Ayres said.