IN THE GARDEN.

Press, Volume LXIII, Issue 19158, 15 November 1927, Page 14

IN THE GARDEN.

WORK FOR THE WEEK. (SPECIALLT TVBITTEX FOB THZ PEES 3.)

(By J. T. Sixclaib.)

ANSWER TO CORRESPONDENT. A-iibnrtor.—The samples of MO'.ks you mcuiiciicd have cu; come ;o hand. If i; is an aphis thai is ailai-king them, Black Leaf lu will be a cure i: you use it at ti.e .•ale ni one tea.ipoonl'u! to each galN.n ~. water. Add a liitie fcap to act as a -preader. Tiie under-side of the foliage mt;-!t be made thoroughly wet as well as the upper side. If it is a grub that is causing the trouble, use arsenate of lead. IJ, teaspount'uls to every gallon. You ■an u?e this alor.j with the Black L-.v.i lu if you like. VEGETABLES. Mushrooms. —Those who have not the convenience of a shed or similar place which can be kept dark can with confidence try the formation of a bed out of doors. Manure from a stable is the best material for producing the necessary heat. It should be freed from the longest litter, but a fair quantity of short straw must be included with the manure. Collect the manure every day and spread it out in a cool shed to heat slightly and sweeten. When enough has been collected shake out all the material loosely as it is placed in position in the bed, and well tread down each layer as it is put on. The bed bhould lie ridge-shaped, and have it base of about 3ft 6hi, tapering to a ridge 3ft high, At first the heat will rise to fully 100 degrees, and when it has fallen to about 80 degrees the spawn can be put in. Break up the spawn in lumps tho size of a hen's egg, and place them two inches deep in the manure and nine inches apart. When all the spawn is in, two inches of nice, moist soil should be put over the bed and made firm with the back of the spade. Clean soil from a dock is best. If any water is needed it should be made tepid. Finally, cover the bed a foot thick with straw over which put some sacks. If all goes well, mushrooms can be expected in about eight weeks. It is possible to get mushrooms in old pasture land The turf can be raised with the spade

and pieces of spawn put in two inches deep, afterwards press the turf down firm again. Only the very best spawn should be employed. If old spawn is used it often will not run, and the work goes for nothing. The present is a good time either to plant in the turf or make up beds in the open or under cover.

French Beans.—Another sowing should be put in soon, so that the plants will bear a succession of pods when the earliest sowing is getting past its best. Tomatoes.—The principal work among these under glass is keeping them tied to their supports and rubbing off all laterals as these appear.

FRUIT. Aphides on Peach Trees.—Peach trees have been badly attacked by greenfly this season, and where spraying has been neglected,-some of the shoots are almost denuded of foliage. This is bad for the health of the tree, and, until the lady-birds become more numerous spraying must be seen to promptly, and the work be done thoroughly. There are many preparations on the market, hut "Black Leaf 40" is probably the best and, easiest handled. One teaspoonful to every gallon of water gives the proportion of 1 in 1000, which is efficacious.

FLOWERS. Carnations from Seed. —Many admirers ' of the carnation have rejuctantly

come to the conclusion that with the troubles of rust, spot, wire-worm, and the rotting of young layers through being too wet in winter, border carnations are not worth bothering about. The specialist often boxes his layers and protects them in winter, but ir this trouble is necessary for plants that are supposed to be hardy border sorts, the amateur is well advised to give it up. and confine his attention to the American or tree varieties, which although not quite so hardy can be planted out during the summer. Our advice to those who have come to this conclusion is to try raising some border varieties from I seed. All plants raised from seed are. I as a rule, more vigorous and robust in I constitution than plants propagated 1 by cuttings or layers, and in the case of the carnation this fact is sufficient to make a trial of seedlings well worth I while where named varieties do not suc- | cceci well. The colour and quality of the I I -looms will, of course, vary, but if the I best seed is obtained, many first-rate | flowers will be produced—rery beautiful lin the border and in vases, even it I they would be considered faulty on the exhibition table. The seed can be sown now in shallow boxes filled with sandy loam, and the boxes placed in a cold j frame. If a frame is not available a large box with a sheet of glass over it will serve the purpose. The seedlings must be pricked off as soon as they can be handled and planted out in their permanent position in late March or early in April. The result next year will be a pleasant surprise to many that have given up growing named sorts on account of past failures. Hoses.—These, like the peach, ti-i-'es. have had, and still have, a lot of greenfly on them and will have to be sprayed, otherwise the plants will he weakened. Owing to tho rain we have had recently the wiehuriana roses are throwing up a great many strong shoots from the base. These should be tied in securely in case they get damaged' by strong winds, as it is to them v.c have to look for next season's crop. ' Chrysanthemums.—As the final potting of these will take place in a fortnight or so, the soil should be made up now. so that it will be well mixed and sweetened before Iteing used. The following compost will be found to give good results. Two barrowfuls of good librous loam (not chopped up too fine), half-barrow of leaf mould, the same of well-decayed manure, half bushel of coarse sand, five-inch potful of soot, and an eight-inch potful of bonedust. Mix well together by turning the whole over twice.

Azaleas.—These plants should be gone over and have all seed-pods removed. This must be done carefully or the young growths near where the flower was will get damaged. Hydrangeas.—These plants flowered exceptionally well last year, and they promise to do the samo this season.

They are remarkable for changing the colour of their flowers in different soils. The colour is ordinarily a pale pink,

but in some soils the flowers become a pleasing tint of blue, and maiiv who have seen or heard of this type of the plant desire to have it either in the form of cuttings from a friendly possessor of the variety, or endeavour to procure a plant from a nurseryman. But there is no certainty that a plant procured in cither of these ways will continue to retain its habit of producing its flowers in the attractive blue The blue is alleged to be caused by the presence of iron in some form in the soil, or in the water with which it is watered. If watered with water containing alum, or with the crystals of copperas or sulphate of iron, i't will bo found that the flowers will assume a bluo tint.

The Greenhouse.—More shade from bright sunshine will now be essential to plants in flower and those that are i making growth only. The latter will I require less of it than the former; it is therefore essential that the means of shading should be perfectly under control and be used only when wanted. Perns generally require more shade than flowering and ornamental leaved plants. All things recently potted or pricked off, as in the case of seed linos, should he very carefully shaded for a few days after they have been disturbed. Ventilate freely during the day; at the same time sprinkle the floor and stages with water, and to prevent undue flagging of the foliage lightly syringe overhead young growing plants. Keep a sharp look-out for greenfly, especially on pelargoniums, and when any are noticed close the house up tightly some calm evening and fumigate well. Leaive the house closed all night and admit air carlv the fol- I lowing morning.