IN THE GARDEN.

Press, Volume LXI, Issue 18415, 23 June 1925, Page 7

IN THE GARDEN.

WORK FOR THE WEEK.

(bf*cially wbittbx fob "tss skbss.") (Br J. T. Sr-vcLAin.) ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. Anxious. —A newspaper or two laid over tho plants inside a cold greenhouse or frame will keep out frost in a surprising manner. Newspaper* are the very best added protection for plants in a. gieenhouse when a spe 1 of frost makes one uneasy. All that need be done ie to rpre'id the newspapers over the plants, tucking- ih:> paper we'l down outside the pots on the side nearast the gln l :s. VEGETABLES. Ground for peas.—The ground in ■which it is intended to sow peas and ' broad beans in spring should now be prepared. One of the mistakes made by i amateurs is in sowing and planting in newly-dug or trenched ground. Pre- ! parations for plants or seed should always be made some time before the ground is required. When this is done the plants have a better chance to thrive. Loose soil is accountable for many failures, and often the seeds and plants are blamed when the fault lies with the cultivator. The digging of light soils can sometimes be left until spring, but for early vegetables the ground should be dug not later than mid-winter. Pens and beans should get an abundance of manure, and tho soil should be well worked if the best results are desired. The surface need not be broken fine, the weather will do that, but it is essential that the bottom soil is well broken up. Mustard and cress.—Thoso who are in possession of a greenhouse are always in a position to keep up a supply of these salads throughout the winter and spring. Fill the boxes with fine soil, press the soil moderately firm, and . sow the seeds on the top of tho soil. Do not cover the seeds with soil. Water with tepid water through a fine rose. If a piece of glass covered with brown paper is laid on the top of tho boxes, it will assist germination very much. Successional sowings must be made frequently to keep up a supply. FRUIT. Pruning Vines.—The rods of a wellpruned vine should be straight and slightly tap?ring, with small excresences, called suprs, at fairly regular intervals, first on one side, and then on tho other. If it has been badly pruned the spurs will be large, straggly, and untidy, and there will probably be gaps. Tho Black Hamburg variety is the easiest to manage, one of tho best flavoured, and, as it is the one almost invariably grown by amateurs, there is no need to refor hero to any other. The side shoots, or laterals, should be cut back to the first bud in each ease—that is, close to the spur. If the bud is unusually weak or has been injured, it may sometimes be advisable to leave a second, but' that is rarely necessary. If the rods have reached the back wall, the leading shoots or rods should be pruned the same way; if they have not yet reached the tops, more buds may "be left. Except for the sake of tidiness, the old bark need not be removed, unless such insects as redspider or mealy bug are present, in which case the rods should be rubbed between the hands, and any loose bark, under which the pests might hide, should be stripped off carefully, so as not to injure the buds. If any of the old rods are worn out and young rods have grown up from the base to replace them, the former should be cut away completely' with a sharp saw, and the latter shortened back to six or eight buds', according to their strength. The inside of tho vinery should bo well cleaned when pruning is finished. FLOWERS. Propagating chrysanthemums.—The season has again arrived for propagating the Autumn Queen. We mean, of course, the plants intended to carry large flowers. The cuttings which spring through the soil away from the stem of the old plant are the best that can be obtained, and such should be cut off when four inches long. Cut them off level by the soil, and trim tho base" immediately below a joint. Weak cuttings rarely develop into strong plants, and certain it is that they seldom catch up to the plants which have been strong from the first. Avoid stem cuttings also, as these are all the time throwing flower buds instead of making free growth. After removing the lower leaves the cuttings will be ready for insertion in sandy soil. The compost can be made up as follows: Three parts of nice fibrous loam, one part leaf soil, plenty of sand, and, if the loam be heavy, some wood ashes, the whole should be passed through a small sieve. Of the most important varieties place one cutting only in a small pot, and see that the drainage is ample, as stagnation at the base of the cuttings means ruin. It is a well-known fact that the cooler the cuttings are kept while producing roots, the better the prospects of having clean, sturdy, plants. The cuttings will root well in an ordinary cool greenhouse. It is well to rig up a temporary frame on the front stage, placing in" the bottom of such a layer of fine ashes so that the young, plants aro always fairly moist without the need of excessive syringings. Water the cuttings in in the first instance, and they should not need more until the roots are being formed. Shade from sunlight, spray only when necessary, and remove the glass each morning for a short time to allow all moisture to escape from the frame. . Pruning deciduous trees. —When pruning deciduous ornamental trees, tho natural habit of the species or variety should always be kept steadily in mind. Most trees have a distinct habit of their own, and most people who. are used to parks and gardens can tell an oak, ash, chestnut, or elm at a considerable distance, even when denuded of foliage. A little pruning with the view of keeping the tree properly balanced is often advisable, especially with young trees. Badly placed branches may be removed or pruned back to a shoot extending in a proper direction. Training decorative trees. —The training of trees on walls and fences must always remain a matter of individual taste. But a few general principles, perhaps, may be borne in mind. If the flowers or leaves of a tree, or both, hang down, the tree will look better when trained crosswise, and the bloom will be less liable to damage by wind and rain—they will have a certain amount of room to swing freely without being dashed against the branches. Koses, as a rule, are better with a little upward coaxing, though, as becomes a rover by nature, a sun and air lover, the rose should be given some liberty. If rosea are bent over sharply—as in pegging down—they will bloom as a rule on the upper side of the stem bent. On the whole, the best results are obtained on walls or fences, by running the rose branches with only the slightest curve outward, if any.