IN THE GARDEN.

Press, Volume LX, Issue 18233, 18 November 1924, Page 7

IN THE GARDEN.

WORK FOR THE WEEK.

(BPECIALLT WBITTEN FOB "THE - PHKSS.'')

(Br J. T. Sinclahi.)

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS R-M.—Grass could 'be sown in your waste ground and could be kept down with the scythe, but this would be as much trouble aB keeping the ground clear with the hoe. The mowings could be stacked and used as manure. If the ground was required for vegetables at any time, the turf would be valuable to dig in. There are very few things which would give aa little trouble as grass. Cape barley could be sown in the autumn and dug in in spring-; this would improve the soil. The choice seems to be between hoeing the ground once a fortnight for about nine months of the year, an-1 mowing the grass Beveral times in the seaeon. Bignonca radicai is evergreen and would probably suit your purpose. B. Australis would probablv be too tender. Ths common passion flower, passiflora cserulea is another good • evergreen climtier to use as a screen. Solanum gasminoides grnnd-flo-a is a rampant growing free flowering climber, bearing masses of white flowers.

VEGETABLES. Onions.—Thin the plants as soon as they are fit to handle. If there arc any blanks in the bed or rows make them good by transplants of the thinning. Moist weather is best for this work. If medium-sized bulbs only are wanted thin the plants to about 3-4 in apart if they are in rows, but if the sowing has been done broadpast a little more space should be allowed around each bulb. Stir the surface betweeii the plants with the hoe, but not deeply. Dressings of soot should be given as a preventive of ground vermin. It is most effective when applied immediately rain is anticipated. If applied when the suface is dry, water it down with the rose on the watering pot.

Lettuce. —Sow in shallow drills a foot apart. If the soil is dry moisten the drills with a fine rose watering pot and let them dry for an hour, iiien sow thinly or drop several seeds at points 9in. apart along the . drills. Previous sowings should be thinned before the plants become crowded, and the thinnings should be planted elsewhere if required. Owing to the weather becoming drier as the season goes on thinnings from later sowings will not transplant well, so the plants will do better if grown where sown. Attend to watering should dry weather set in.

New Zealand Spinach.—This is a, most useful crop, especially during a hot, dry summer, when ordinary spinach is very difficult to produce. This is a good time to make a sowing, arid for this purpose shallow drills should be drawn 3ft apart. The seedlings must be thinned as much apart, as they do best when given ample • room. A sunny position, where the soil is fairly rich, suits the crop admirably, and. if the ground has been trenched during the winter so much tho better. In a. warm, dry season abundance of water can be given, but, beyond this, very little attention is necessary. One sowing will be sufficient, as the plants keep on growing until cut down by frost Manuring Asparagus.—From now on no more cutting must be done, and the beds must be assisted' with some liquid manure. Salt can.be given at the rate of two ounces per square yard, sulphate of ammonia, nitrate of soda and guano can be given at the rate of an ounce to a gallon of water, or the same amount to a square yard, and can then be watered in. Sulphate of ammonia is best for heavy land; and nitrate of soda .for, light land. Super : phosphate can be given- by way of a. change at the same rate as salt. Woodashes, too, can be applied dry and watered ia-. Thiß is another good change. Mulching.—On shallow and very light soils during a . long period of droughty the resources of the amateur are often severely taxed - to keep things moving, especially when the water supply is limited. On such soils much good may be done by applying a good mulch. This is always best put on after a. heavy rain, or after the soil has had a good soaking of water. Most vegetables respond readily to such treatment, peas and beans in particular.

FRUIT. Thinning Grapes. —This is one of the most important operations in connexion with the culture of the grape vine. Although it is . a comparatively easy matter it requires some delicate care, and on that account is looked upon* by some amateurs as a thing beyond their capabilities. Care must be taken not to handle or rub the berries in any way at this stage of their development, or they will be marked when they show colour. Thiniiing should be begun when the best berries have obtained the lead, or when they are, say, the size of plump seed of sweet peas. Eoughly, about two-thirds of the berries should be removed, but it is advisable for the novice to leave them a little thicker and go over them again in a few weeks' time. The best plan is to dear out the centre of the bunch first, and, in doing so, the scissors should be, carefully handled, so as not to cut or stab aiiy of the berries left. When the 'thinning is finished every berry should have sufficient room to * develop properly, and should be left in such a position that it will not touch its neighbours until the swelling is well advanced.

FLOWERS. Polyanthuses. These are easily raised from seed, and it is best to procure seed of a first-class strain, although the price may be a little more. There is no comparison between plants increased by division and those raised from seed. The latter are always much more vigorous, with larger flowers and larger stalks. From . tho start these flowers do best when the soil contains a large percentage of leaf soil, and for the seed boxes the compost can be made up of three parts leaf soil, two parts loam, and one part sand. Make this moderately firm in the boxes, which should be placed in a cold frame or glass-covered large-sized box: Keep the frame close, and the boxes' shaded until the seedlings appear, when shade must be gradually reduced and air increased. As soon as they can be conveniently handled prick out the seedlings into boxes or on a border on the south side of a fence or wall, in rich soil. The soil should be rich, and contain plenty of leaf soil. Water is needed, and provide a light mulch of pld-decayed manure or leaf soil. In April lift the plants and place them where they are to flower. Singleflowered primroses can be treated in the same manner. Delphiniums.—lt is a good plan to provide a mulch for the surface of the soil immediately surrounding the stems of these stately flowers some time in. November. This, besides providing additional nourishment, will help to conserve the moisture in the soil. Thenceforward, if the season be dry water copiously, and the resulting flower spikes, of both first and second flowering, will surprise the grower by their vigour and their beauty. Pansies and Violas. —A stock of these for planting in the early autumn can

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be obtained froYn seed sown now in boxes or- pans of light soil placed in a Sold frame, kept 'slia'ded, or, if so desired, cuttings may be taken and struck in a shady place, and the plants then obtained may be expected to flower in the autumn, if all goes well. The cuttings must be kept' nicely moist, for, if once allowed' to become dry, roots will not be emitted so readily. Sweet Peas. —Attention "must be given to'the thinning out and tying of the shoots. Watering and surface cultivation must- also be seen to. To conserve the moisture in the soil, and at the snime time supply food to the roots, a mulching of short manure can be applied. . Cottage Garden Competition.— We understand that the Horticultural Society is going to hold a cottage garden- competition some time after New Tear. Conferences between the Society and the Beautifying Association are being held,' or going to be held, about the matter. The Society takes into consideration the three branches of gardening, that is to say, vegetables, fruit and flowers. The Association is interested mainly, in the front part ,of the garden, the flower garden part. The outcome of the conferences will be known in the near future; in fact, will have to be- known in the. near future, if any good is goihg ; to-result.