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IN THE GARDEN.

WORK FOR THE WEEK. / (SPBCIALLT WBITIEK FOR "THE FRRSS.") (Br J. T. Sinclair.) ANSWEES TO COEBESPONDENTS. Hollyhocks.—When the foliage dies down cut the stem to within six inches of the ground and free the ground from weeds. In September loosen tho surface soil and give a mulch of decayed manure. In dry weather,' during October, November, December, and January, give copious euppliea of water, supplemented with a liquid manure. This mav be further continued so Ion? «5 tho flower sterna are effective. Stake in October with stakes at least cix feet abovo ground. VEGETABLES. Seasonablo "Work.—Dig up and burn old leaves and stumps of cabbage and cauliflower. Thin out latc-sowa turnips, spinach, and lettuce as soon as they are fit to be handled. Some varieties of early broccoli are turning in now, and the heads Bhould bo protected by breaking some of the leaves over them.From now until picking begins the Brussels sprouts plants should be gone over and have all dead leaves removed, as they have a very objectionable smell during wet weather; their removal also admits more light and air among tho plants, ami prevents the sprouts from becoming open. Seed-beds of cabbages and ; cauliflowers should have the Dutch hoc run through the rows at least once a week, j Ripened foliage should be removed froin seakale as soon as noticed..! Tho final earthing up of early celery, can be undertaken any time now. Do not raise tho soil too high, or the centres of the plants -will get damaged. Late sorts must be inspected periodically to see that no fungoid or insect pests are present. . j FEXJIT. Grease-banding Trees'. —To cultivate hardy fruits successfully it is necessary not only to 'provide one's fruit trees i with a suitable site, good soil, and sufficient food, but it is quite as essential to protect them from the attacks of different kinds of insect and parasitic pests. Caterpillars and grubs invariably do a considerable amount of damage every year to fruit trees unless special steps nro taken to prevent them..' As these are the offspring of moths, it always proves a great saving of time and trouble if the moths themselves can.be destroyed oeforo they lay their eggs. One of the most troublesome pests is tho winter moth, which u'egins its mischief some time 'during- this and next month by laving its eggs in the crevices of the bark or the stem and branches of apple trees. There can be no doubt that greasebanding, properlv carried out, is very effective against pests of this kind. The only Question for the gardener is whether it is worth while, or whether ho will rely on spraying in spring and summer to clear off any caterpillars that appear. In -arsenate of lead ( he has a spray ifluid which deals with all caterpillars with great certainty. However, t]ie amateur has not very many trees, so that the labour and expense of grease-banding'are small, and ho may as well adopt the plan. -' To capture and destroy these moths before thev have time to lay their eggs protects the trees . from much subsequent injury. Fortunately, this can.be done easily and successfully if the proper precautions are now taken. The female winter moth, being, wingless, has abravs to climb up thp trunk of -the tree'before it can reach tho branch on trhieli to lay its eggs. This being, so, a band of area Re-proof paper about eight inches wide, if securely, tied round the sfem aWit two ; feet above' the - level of the soil and well covered wth axle-' grease, will trap.all the moths as they trv to pass ur> the stem. _ . 'lf the stem i"s rough, it should be scraped as smooth as possible, otherwise the moths may, pass nndorneath the urease.band and reach the branches in Safety. The grease surface must be kept in a soft condition, for should it. become, drjr the moths would be able to travel over it uninjured. Besides, the wingless female, many winged males and other insect pests are caught. JXOWEES. • Roses from Outtings.-Many of the mom robust of toses do well on then own roots, and are therefore most suitable for propagation by/means of cuttings, whereas the . choicer and more delicate kinds do best wfeen budded. From now until the end of next month cuttings may be taken; good wood. ol this season's growth must be used. Gut the selected snoot Tvdth a 'heel attached—that is, slice off a small portion ot tho parent stem when -.cutting, it, as-it 'Will'(hasten- the rooting process, or at least inako the shoot moro certain to strike. Do not select cuttings that are in active growth, but those which,, have quite finished and become solid. Homove tho lower leaves, shorten the top end, and trim any loose wood -oft tho "heol" : three or four.of tho top leaves can remain, as these will assist root action, and tho cuttings should bo from eight to twelve inches long. A nursery betl under a south -wall, or fenop is i sin oxcollent place for cuttings. The bed should bo deeply and thoroughly _dug, with plelity of road' grit or sharp sand' added, Imd* trodden down firmly. A •'nick" should be made some six inohes deep, with a clean spade, and, eighteen inches should bo allowed between tbo «*nickß." Then placo n layer of coarße grit or sand in tho nick or trench, for the base of the cuttings to rest on, and allow six inches between ! the Tread the soil firm, again, ! and place u little more eoil loosely on tho top, but'do not tread this firm. Tho cuttings will quickly form a callus, but i may .not form root* until the spring, and therefore should not be disturbed until the following autumn, though the hoe must bo frequently used during summer to keep thcni free fiom weeds, and assist in the production of strong roots. If flower bud& should appear during the first summer, they should be quickly, pinched off, as they will only impoverish the plants, which would otherwise* become strong and bushy by the autumn, and can then be removed to their permanent quarters, planting theui as is usually done with budded plants. Calceolarias.—Tho bedding varieties should be increased by moans of cuttings during tho next fortnight. They stand the winter quite -well with just the .protection of a cold frame or.any other structure where they are sheltered Irom snow or excessive -wet, but whoro they can get plenty of light end air. Select young flowerless growths, make the tings in the usual way, and insert them in boxes or a cold frame in some sandy soil. In about a months time they will be rooted.- • "Wallflowers.—Get these into the flowering position as soon as possible. The site should bo e sunny one, and i somewhat sheltered from "the wind. ! Fork some liroe into the bed, and make | rather firm before planting. Lift as. ; mUoh soil with the roots as cau be ! managed, and well water in. I Bedding lifting of geraniums from beds and borders is-neces r sary now if sufficient stock was not propagated by cuttings. Tiie tops can bo cut fairly'hard" backhand the stools set closely together in fairly deep boxes. cau be .placed in some position out iof the reach •of . frost. Very littlo moisture will ■ be needed until spring. Just sufficient to prevent undue flagging. •'"✓'■

Permanent link to this item
Hononga pūmau ki tēnei tūemi

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/CHP19210412.2.82

Bibliographic details
Ngā taipitopito pukapuka

Press, Volume LVII, Issue 17117, 12 April 1921, Page 9

Word count
Tapeke kupu
1,230

IN THE GARDEN. Press, Volume LVII, Issue 17117, 12 April 1921, Page 9

IN THE GARDEN. Press, Volume LVII, Issue 17117, 12 April 1921, Page 9

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