ALL OR NONE.

Press, Volume L, Issue 14972, 20 May 1914, Page 6

ALL OR NONE.

IMPORTANT INDUSTRY IX PERIL.

MILLLVERY POLICE-CEXSORS

(FBOM OCR OW.V CORRESPONDENT.)

LONDON, April 9. at >d retailers engaged in the feather trade of Great Britain arc considerably perturbed by the danger which, in their opinion, threatens their particular industry if the Plumage Bill, "in its present form, becomes law; it has passed its second reading. This Bill wa s framed to check the slaughter of wild birds with what, is alleged to be cruelty. Osprey and bird of paradise plumes were of course the species in mind when the Bill was drafted, and it was clarly understood that ostrich feathers were to bo exempt, though since then an attempt was made to have them included. Everywhere in circles affected there is a strong desire manifest for more- careful consideration oP the present clauses and a wider enquiry into the full racts of the case. In defence of tho statement, of wide acceptance, that ospreys and aigrettes were obtained only at breeding time, and that their removal from tho birds meant subsequent extermination, it is now declared that two-thirds of the feathes ! of ospreys imported into this country are picked up on tho water or on thebirds feeding-grounds having dropped 3ff in tho ordinary process of moulting. Then, wo know the story of the lady n-ho was imorraed that the osprevbirds were chloroformed before the precious plumes were taken. UNFORESEEN SEQUEL. Apart from tho sentimental side? it ;eem s that the Plumage Bill has already had a serious effect on the jstrich feather trade—exempted under :ho Bill. These feathers were worth £80 a pound last August; to-day their : a J\°." o th ers which' then etched £60 are down to £15 and £20 md the highest figure " re- ™ at *ia SOd th ° , latesfc auctions * S - r. I a - Dound - South African istnen farmers hoped to benefit by the egislation, foreseeing a mouopoiv of ho feather trade. But they omitted to take into aeount tho whims' and foibles of women of fashion. Deprived of full choice of any and every variety of plumage, it seen:s that some women—notably thoso of America —have decided to have none. They will use flowers and ribbons 'and other substitutes. Hcnco tho industry at the Cape is imperilled, to say nothing of the industry in artificially-mado plnmage, known as "fancy" plumage which has bnen valued at £703 000 per annum, giving employment to many thousands of hands. Pessimists are sure this industry will be. killed absolutely. AN UNENVIABLE DUTY. " Truly tho policeman's "lot" will not be a happy one" if to his already multifarious duties he has to keep a sharp look-out to see that ladies in the streets aro not wearing prohibited plumes. - - ■

One clause under discussion sots out that -where the Court was satisfied that any plumage was that of a-bird never or rarely found alive in a wild state in 1 ii? , * 0 ?- Kin gdom-the . plumage -should be deemed to be imported,,unless the contrary -were proved.: An M.P. said this meant that anyone w.ho did wear plumage would be liable to prosecution, and it was wrong that such a state of things.should be comsuch a state, of. things should be conrare birds.- One.Judy who. owned biid-of-paradise feathers that had been in her family, for .forty years, would be liable fco.prosecution.if she wore them; another M,P. said it was intolerable that their wives and Bisters were liable to be stopped at street-corners by policemen enquiring as -to the origin of their plumes. Tho Postmastergeneral said the trade aimed-at by the Bill was confined to a very small section of the community; tfio feathers were of a most costly character and were "not found in tho hats of the generality of the public; he ridiculed tho idea of police standing at street corners and questioning ladies about the origin or' their hat-trimmings. Ihere was no question of women being seized by the and dragged to the police station; a summons would be served, and the woman would merely have to show a waranty, and the whole thing would end. One M.P. remarked .that the police were not all naturalists, and they would be taken in by imitation plumage Another declared that ladies would be afraid to wear feathers, and this would mean that half the women would give up their use . while tho other half would be in gaol. More sensible .was the. suggestion that instead of private people being subject to attack, the Government should get at the importers or the sellers of any prohibited plumage. OPINIONS OF EXPERTS. Directors of big houses in the West End anticipate an exceedingly bad timo for the millinery trade, while thousands of hands will be out of work, fashion is a fickle thing • and the I ostrich feather, which will be allowed a monopoly, v ill not gain one iota in popularity.- As for the clause making it illegal to be "in possession" of prohibited feathers, it is looked upon as mischievous and as likeiy to spoil busi- I ness in imitation feathers;, for there is j not a draper or milliner who would incur tho chaneo of putting lady customers to the ri.sk or' being challenged and summoned for beintj:. "in possession of what might be only imitation J or mal feathers imported before tho Bill"