for Women

Auckland Star, Volume LXXIII, Issue 170, 21 July 1942, Page 2

for Women

WAR STYLES SAVING MATERIAL DECREED BY UNCLE SAM (0.C.) SAN FRANCISCO, June 1. Uncle Sam has decreed wartime styles in suits, coats and dresses for his nieces that by eliminating nonessential frills will result in an expected saving of perhaps 100,000,000 yards of cloth. At a Press conference to which were invited the nation's leading fashion writers, Stanley Marcus, head of the apparel branch of the War Production Board in Washington, explained that the new order assured women there would be no extreme in dress styles during the present war as in the last. It also assured women that their present wardrobes would not be made obsolete by radical fashion changes, Marcus stressed. The order went into effect regarding autumnal clothes. It tended to stabilise for the duration of the war the present length and fullness of skirt. The W.P.B. order made it plain that for the duration of the war dresses could be shorter and shorter, or tighter and tighter—as fashion might dictate—but neither longer nor fuller than those now worn. Makers Responsible

The order will not affect clothes for this spring and summer, most of which are already made. Retailers have until August 17 to clear their stocks, Marcus said. He noted that this is the usual period for "end-of-the summer" sales. The order provided that after that date no retailer can sell a three-piece suit, or a dress with a jacket, or redingeote, at a suit price. The dress and jacket, for example, would be priced separately. The idea of prohibiting the sale of jacket frocks, Marcus explained, is the belief that a woman who really wants a jacket will buy one that she can wear with several dresses. Marcus also said that the woman who makes her own clothes, buying goods by the yard, is not affected. He said women should not hesitate to buy existing stocks in shops. He said he did not think women would look different next autumn. The exSerts who drew up the specifications, e said, had been careful not to invalidate present styles. For coats there will be no cuffs, wool evening wraps, or wool linings, and no sleeves will be cut on the bias, with no belt wider than two inches, and no wool cloth lining under fur trimming. Evening dresses will have no overskirts or aprons, no wool evening dresses, no belt or sash more than two inches wide and no hoods. Suit lengths will be 28 inches and jacket length 25 inches. Jackets will be devoid of vents, bisweep, Norfolk styles, cuffs, hoods, capes, scarfs, muffs, bags and vests. Slacks will have no cuffs, patch pockets or belts, and blouses also will be drastic in trimmings. Children's apparel likewise is to be severely designed with many restrictions. Stylists Approve Edict Famous dress designers, fashion editors, merchants and a crosssection of consumers gave prompt approval to the restrictions on manufacture of women's clothes. A poll by the National Retail Dry Goods Association indicated a general belief in the fashion industry that the new specifications would result in increased originality by dress designers and few, if any, changes in women's appearance.

"Some of the new restraints mayresult in tremendously interesting developments," Edna Woolman Chase, Vogue's editor-in-chief, commented. "We shall have to do better thinking and that will result in better dressing." Carmel Snow, Harper's Bazaar editor, likewise predicted the W.P.B. action would prove "a great stimulus to fashion creation." "Any real designer welcomes some limitations, since they tend to stir her imagination and ingenuity," Clarepotter, well-known designer, commented. Gladys Swarthout, opera star found the restrictions fairly mild' adding: "As far as I can see we are asked not to deny ourselves, but iust to conserve, and the least we can do ? ey , ch eerfully." Mrs. Wendell Winkie forecast "sensible clothes suitable for wartime."