A GERMAN LADY'S OPINION OF AKAROA.

Akaroa Mail and Banks Peninsula Advertiser, Volume I, Issue 71, 23 March 1877, Page 3

A GERMAN LADY'S OPINION OF AKAROA.

We have received a pamphlet entitled " A Tour through various parts of New Zealand," by a German Lady. It is exceedingly well worth reading, giving a very correct account of the scenery and customs of New Zealand. We give the following relating to Akaroa :— My first coaching experience in New Zealand was gained from Christchurch to Akaroa, a small town beautifully situated on Bank's Peninsula. The coach starts from the booking office in Christchurch at 8 a.m. I had bespoken a box seat, but the granting of that lies solely with the driver who has the privilege of choosing those passengers that are to share the seat with him. The proprietor, Mr. Cramond, drove up with the coach and a beautiful team of four brown horses. He was very pleasant and civil indeed (but then he comes from Timaru), so I felt sure I should enjoy my trip. At eight o'clock he relinquished the reins to the coachman, Joe Macfarlane, and off we started through the streets of warm-hearted Christchurch, leaving them soon far behind and rattling along a well made road that only becomes interesting after the half-way house in the Little River district is reached. Here the passengers stopped for dinner and then we start again, this time with tivc horses for the road is very heavy in some parts. In the meantime I was on the best of terms with the driver Mr. Macfarlane, a good-looking Scotchman, who had only just returned from his wedding trip, and this was the first time he drove after his marriage. The joking along the road with his acquaintances reminded me strongly of Mr. Weller and the coaching days in England, described by Dickens. It was capital fun to see Joe throwing kisses and waving , his hand gracefully. He is much liked evidently and very obliging. His language too is superior for a man in his station. I did not hear one bad word, nor even slang expressions. To his horses he always speaks with evident affection such as, " eh, my little beauties, get on !" and looks at them admiringly whenever they turn smartly round an abrupt curve in the road. We are nearing the mountains on Bank's Peninsula. Lake Ellesmere is seen but imperfectly from the coach road, and looks rather dreary with its flat shores. A number of water fowl may be shot there ; we met several sportsmen, one of whom sold to the driver a pair of wild ducks for eighteenpence. The next lake in view is Lake Forsyth, very prettily situated with a mountainous shore. The coach clashed on over a plain covered with tussocks, that look in the distance like short stubble, and as the five horses were dancing along it looked as if we were bearing down straight into the lake. The road that skirts it is very strong and rough ; in winter it is often completely flooded when the lake rises through the increasing waters. When pretty Lake Forsyth is passed the roads become very hilly, and high forest trees covered with creepers and ferns, charming gullies in which the tree fern grows luxuriantly and attains a great height are seen. The birds here sing so loudly and joyously that the whole forest resounds with their song; we had moreover a lovely day, and the ever varying scenes, seen to such advantage from the box seat, caused a thorough enjoyment. At a pretty little fountain that forms itself from a supply of water in the hills, and running through a delicious nook of ferns with the many tinted foliage over head, our horses had a drink

and a few moments of rest. The poor animals stood panting and perspiring from their up hill journey. It was a lovely spot for a few moments delay, as the concert o£ the birds could now be heard in all its glory. To the left stretches a beautiful range ,of mountains, the highest point is 1800 feet, fine gorges and slopes intervene, dotted with groups of handsoms cabbage trees. A secluded little cottage inhabited by some roadmender, stands in full view of all this loveliness, and the wife appearing in the door to have a look at the coach, Joe called out to her, " I daresay you won't fall out with your neighbours 1" The roads were very heavy and rough in many places, so that it required skill and care to get over them safely. When the coach .dashed down the precipitate parts, it became necessary to hold on somewhere, and as I sat between Joe and a dark-haired solicitor, I had to slip a hand under an arm of each of these gentlemen ; in this way alone was it possible to escape being hurled off the seat. It is surprising how soon one becomes accustomed to the bad roads, the lovely scenery as we are nearing Akaroa soon engages all attention An inn on the hill top, M r here the horses are changed for the last time, looks down upon the harbour of Akaroa ; surrounded by high hills as it lies there so silent in the clear afternoon sunshine, quite landlocked, it resembles a Swiss lake. I repeat that the picture as seen from the hill top, is so lovely that this view alone will repay the visitor to Akaroa. As yet, no photographs are to be had, either of this or any other part of the lovely peninsula, which seems all the more strange as the beautiful and varied views cannot fail to find ready purchasers. Our last team of horses, five again, was a shapely and comely one altogether, the three leaders especially, and it was a pleasure to see them draw together gracefully and promptly at the sudden curves in the road which occurred very frequently indeed. Though theendof the journey seemed quite near, yet in reality it was still fifteen miles off. For the first time in my life I was taught to hold the reins by Joe, who pretended that it was amazing how well I did it in so short a time ; but somehow Joe's hands was very near the ribbands, and I do believe he held the important part of then. As we are nearing Akaroa, the beauties of scenery by no way diminish; we stop at pretty little bays with foreign names, here the driver delivers letters, newspapers, or parcels, and chaffs the respective persons who stand waiting for them. One exceedingly steep and rather dangerous hill has to be descended, and then we are in Akaroa, a quiet village-like place, at the foot of the harbour, with mountains in the background. I believe that representatives of almost all nations live here peaceably together. The few original French settlers to begin with who went there thirty-five years ago and have remained ever since. Then there are Danes, Scandinavians, Germans, one Portuguese, a Swiss and a Greek. The hotel kept by Mr. Wagstaff is a very superior establishment; it lies in beautiful groundsnear the harbour, from the verandah the view is very superior indeed. Those who disdain mixing with their fellow creatures, can have private rooms engaged by telegram at Mr. Wagstaff's, and exclude themselves in cosy quarters to their heart's content. Those who wish to study human nature and manners can have a pretty bedroom, and take meals at the table where kind Mrs. Wagstaff presides over good cheer, and afterwards a comfortable sittingroom, with a lamp that sheds the mildest lightis at their disposal. On my arrival there were but two guests, the bicycle hero and his follower, who had lately completed the journey from Christehurch to Hokitika and back, and who had come to Akaroa by the same mode of conveyance. A promenade after tea through the hotel grounds and through the town by moonlight was exceedingly agreeable. The whole place was so quiet, the little houses contrasted so well against the dark mountains, and in front of it all the beautiful lake-like harbour so silent and grand in the moonlight. It was exceedingly pleasant to hear a friendly " Good evening," from everyone who passed, a habit so different from that of large towns, and peculiarly grateful to the ear of a stranger. The next day being Sunday I went to the little English Church, but the service having a strong high flavour I returned disappointed. Then the mountains began to weep as the Maoris say, it rained and continued to do so for two days. I was weather-bound, and could make no excursions into the neighbourhood, but I made the acquaintance of a little Irishman, the Duke of Barry, and who lived in a whare not very far awaj' where he made cheese and roughed it thoroughly. The Duke a little man of small dimensions and insignificant appearance, being permaturely bald though only 2G years old, gained decidedly upon closer acquaintance. He is thoroughly good-natured, and every inch a gentleman in heart, feelings, and also in manners, though he Avould occasionally wrest his little boy, clad in a dismal suit of grey, in the most extraordinary positions, his arms stretched high over his head like telegraph posts, and wriggling about whilst telling some funny Irish stories. One significant look from me at the arms or the wriggling extremities would make him start up with the excuse, " Oh, I beg your pardon, but really I am not accustomed to talk with ladies, I am always among cows and ploughboys, I really beg your pardon ! " And then he would look so pleading and so beseeching, poor little Duke, o.ne could not be angry with him.

It was arranged that the Duke should take me about the country sight-seeing the next day if fine, and we started accordingly at 10 o'clock, with provisions to spend the greater part of the day out among the mountains. As I abhor the smoking of short pipes and the Duke knew this, I met him near the kitchen, puffing away with all his might and with such a queer dismal expression of countenance when he espied me. " I am smoking now, you see my last pipe as I may not indulge in it when I am out with you." Now this complaisance touched me. " Well said I, perhaps I am not so dreadfully particular as all that, considering that wo shall be in the open air." Nevertheless, he had no other pipe that day. It was our intention to ascend Brazenose, the highest mountain near Akaroa. Immediately after setting out the road was exceedingly rough and always up hill. The Duke in a pair of bush boots and slouching bandit's hat trudged in front, carrying a small kit with

provisions and enlivening the walk with merry talk, and imitations of foreigner's queer pronunciation of English. When we had walked for about a mile Brazenose was yet as far off as ever, so I porposed to draw straws whether we should go to Brazenose or to the Captain's, a partner of the Duke in the cheese making, who lived a good distance off. The longest straw meant " the Captain, " and I drew it. This operation of straw drawing in which the Dnke had not indulged since his boyhood, evidently touched a soft chord. We sat down on the grass, attacked the lunch, looking at the beautiful scenery ! and views of Akaroa at our feet, when the Duke suddenly began to make a clean breast of it by accusing himself of being quite a disreputable character, fond of " nips," and all that sort of thing ending with, " Oh, yes, you may believe me, I am very bad indeed, it is no use hiding it, if I didn't tell you all the people of Akaroa would." What was it, little Duke, that made you so loveable in spite of all your confession of unworthiness! By degrees tlie sky had assumed a threatening look, and Brazenose was enveloped in clouds; as we were not far from the Duke's whare we went down to it at the foot of a hill and I found it not at all the miserable place that he depicted it. The bush all around was lovely, and had it not been for the over threatening sky, a walk in his domain would have been very pleasant indeed, We proposed remaining in the whare till the sky should clear, and meanwhile the Duke made active preparations for a cup of tea. The cow-boy on seeing a lady approach the hut had fled. He could with difficulty be coaxed to come within gun shot to be asked whether he had any cream in the dairy, and then the Duke had to fetch it himself. It having cleared up in the afternoon, we turned homewards, visiting on our way the cemetery which is prettily situated, but not very carefully kept. On a small grave, evidently recently made, stood a wineglass filled with water, intended for holding flowers* lam sorry to say that the Duke took it to be put there as an ofiering to a " thirsty soul." That evening at tea, we had two additional guests attb.3 table, travellers from foreign parts, but Englishmen who had come on foot from Pigeon Bay and were thoroughly drenched. One was an old gentleman very corpulent, with a rubicund face and loud voice, bearing the appropriate name of Captain Hornblower. His companion was quite a young man, rough and ready, his name was Ostryd. Old Hornblower was in ecstacies with the lake country in the North Island, " Bless my soul," cried he, "it is wonderful, there is nothing like it in the world and a visitthere should on no account be a hurried one." Young Ostryd said nothing, he pegged away at the cold beef, and looked profoundly wise. After tea I saw no more of these two, but I heard them, for at ten o'clock there arose a dreadfully alarming noise, and on corning out of my bedroom and inquiring for the cause of this disturbance, I was told that it was ' only the Captain sneezing-.' Sneezing , , indeed! surely the noise did not sound like that, and having been informed by the Duke in the course of the evening that it was alarming to see of what capacious tonnage the Captain was, and that he could stow away a marvellous amount of spirits without showing bad results, I began to dbubt that sneezing had anything to do with the Captain's unearthly noises. What bad company for the Duke, both the Hornblower and the Ostryd ! However, the next morning, both were down to breakfast in time, the Captain looking as robust as possible, rolling his large innocent eyes in all directions, and young Ostryd looking thirsty. A visit to all the French settlers in Akaroa was gratifying for both parties; it was touching to see their delighted faces on being accosted in their own language. They lived in neat cottages with beautifully kept gardens, but everything is on a small scale, they have not been able to turn tilings to account as English settlers do. They all look very vigorous and healthy, even those advanced in years, and all have large families, surely a phenomenon amongst French people. The birds in Akaroa are all classical singers. Whether they have learnt from great masters or the latter from the birds is not for me to determine, I only know that they sing admirably. Regularly at six o'clock every morning one bird would begin waking the others by one soft, prolonged, flute like sound ; soon answers came from all sides, and at breakfast we were greeted by little passages, and I declare another bird answered in a minor key. Endless and various were the sweet sounds, and it was with regret that I left this beautiful Akaroa. There are two ways to reach it; the one by coach, the other by water from Lyttleton, and part of the way by coach likewise after the steamer has landed at Pigeon Baj r .