Traveller.

Alexandra Herald and Central Otago Gazette, Issue 447, 10 November 1904, Page 7

Traveller.

TRAVELLING IJI INDIA. THE traveller is not a ' rara avis' in India, although the species is by no means so abundaut as at homo. True, his plumage is considerably altered, but it does not require a very clever observer to discover him. His tall, shiny hat has given place to a squat 'Sola Topi;' his black coat is exohanged for something light and easy fitting; • and, strangest transformation of all, his starch is limp, very limp at times; while ho himself, with all his perkiness, cannot resist an occasional lapse into limpness also. Yet there ho is pegging away, never, cr hardly ever, downhearted, with a pleasant word and a smile for everybody.

Conditions of travelling are of course very much altered, and it may not bo out of place for one who has had somo experience in our Indian Empire to givo hero a few skotchy notes of the more outstanding features and points of difference for the delectation of those who have never ventared so far.

It is a groat though common mistake for one to encumber himirelf with an extensive and costly outfit before leaving home, as all he wants for the voyago is plenty of lidit under-clothing and a few flannel suits. His kit can bo easily procured at the port of arrival from excellent European outfitters, who know exactly what ho requires. Amongst tho goods and chattels that must be procured at the port of arrival is a good 'boy.' Boys of the common or garden order are plentiful and cheap, but as this particular boy will bo one's principal servant throughout the tour, a careful selection is necessary. Written 'characters' or credentials are of little value, as the in. genuous boy can buy such ' chits' in the bazaar at a low r<ite. If the stranger does not know any one who can recommend a boy who has travelled and is all that ho ought to be, one of the travelling agencies will be able to assist him in this particular.

It might be as well to warn the intending traveller at this point not to expect absolute perfection in any of the servants he may have to employ from time to iimr. The sorrowful suggestion that ' all men arc liars' has a peculiar significance when applied to Indian boys ; and again, without making any sweeping assertion, and allowing for the exception which proves the rule, it is no exaggeration to say that cases havo been known where the model boy has not been found proof against petty peculation. Should occasion arise on which it is necessary for one to question the varacity and integrity of his servant, he will most probably be informed gravely, that ' Hotel mans is teefs and liars. Sahib. Me no teefs and liars, Sahib;' or, as also happened within the writer's ken, when an aggrieved and testy individual lost his temper and the command of his tongue, and bluntly accused his servant of being a thief and a liar, the boy repiled in a casual manner ; • Oh yes, Sahib ; wo all teefs and liars hero, Sahib.'

Another necessary evil in the way of .servants must ho reckoned the inevitable coolie, with his objectionable way of crowding one on arrival at a, port or railway station (bandar). It is not at all exceptional to find one's self and baggage surrounded on such an occasion by a dozen or a score of coolies, jostling jabbering, shouting, and gesticulating in a most alarming manner. Expostulation with a crowd of this kind is quite out of the question ; the judicious manipulation of a stout cane in such an emergency is frequently the only effectual method of enforcing respect for one's person and belongings.

Concerning hotels, wo may say that the larger centres there is no difficulty in the matter of accommodation, and in these hotels ' punkah wallahs' (fan pullers) and a • kitmagar' or table servant can be procured, all of whom—in addition to his personal attendant—one must take into his own service for the time being. Most of the hotels can provide a carriage (ghari), an absolute necessity for business purposes, as any man who, priding himself on his physique, attempts to walk about during the heat of the day, will soon find himself down with ' sun' or fever. It is necessary to point out that in some towns the traveller will find no hotel accommodation, and, in that event, must be content to put up at the railway station or at a ' dak bungalow,' or rest house, provided by Government, which he may occupy for twenty-four hours provided no one else is in possession. From these facts, it will bo gathered that part of the necessary outfit must be bedding. This need not be elaborate, but should include a ' resai' or light mattress, with sheets and a rug for up country in the cool season. In railway travelling, the fewer impediments a man carries with him the bettor, as very little luggage is allowed free of charge, a first-class passenger being allowed only one and a half ' maunds ' (roughly, one hundred and" twenty-three pounds). Travelling is, if slow, comfortable and cheap, first-class fare with sleeping accommodation provided, being about one anna (a penny) per mile. Generally speaking, there are four classes of passenger accommodation on the Indian railways—first (used chiefly by Europeans), second, intermediate, and third. Third class is extremely cheap, so that the traveller is able to take a servant about with him at a comparatively small cost. The distance, for instance, between Bombay and Calcutta (fourteen hundred milos) can be covered for nineteen rupees thirteen annas, as against one hundred and twelve rupees first class.

It must be observed that Madras time is kept on all the railways. This is thirtythree minutes behind Calcutta time, seven minutes behind Allahabad time, thirteen minutes in advance of Delhi time, ten minutes in advance of Agra time, and thirty minutes in advance of Bombay time. Time is reckoned over the twenty-four hours from midnight to midnight, 23-45, for instance, corresponding to our 11-45 p.m. Other modes of progression—elephant, bullock gbari, and such like —may now and then have to be employed, but so infrequently that they arc hardly worth mentioning.

There is one part of the system for which the thanks of the European traveller are due to the controlling authorities of the Indian railways, and that is regard for the Briton's food requirements, ample time and opportunity being afforded on a long journey for meals, which are usually both good and cheap. This jprovision is a very necessary adjunct to railway travelling, as distances are great, and the climate renders it necessary that the system should be kept well nourished. Too much care cannot be given to dietary in such a climate : and tho tendency to over eating, so prevalent among Europeans, must be carefully avoided- It is not too much to say that over eating has more to do with a great deal of the illness of Europeans in India than injudicious drinking. Concerning the latter, perhap3 the safest, and certainly the most usual drink of those in the habit of taking stimulants, is whisky and jsoda, small ' whiskies' and big ' sodas ' being the order of tho day. Manufactured ice (barf) is plentiful, and is almost as much a table

requisite "as salt orchuthey. Soda water is consumed to such an extent by Englishmcn. J 1 "* Jt is called by the natives > Balati Pam (English wat6r)o- - In his. private .capacity the Hindu is frequently v .ery hospitably inclined. The fact that his,caste prejudices preclude him from eating, with Europeans does not always prevent him offering an invitation to dinner —his idea of English hospitality. This consists m his driving his guest to an hotel and paying for dinner, while ho awaits its consumption in another part ofthe house It takes one some little time to get used to this mode of procedure; but alter a while, one sees the propriety of accepting the kindness in the spirit which prompts it. A very important evil to guard "against is • chill,' which carries in its wake all sorts of possibilities up to cholora. The best preventive of chill is the uso of a flannel waistbelt (cummerbund), which should bo worn day and night. Cold baths, although very inviting, should not be indulged in too freely ; and iced drinks should only be taken in moderation. The free use of drugs, best avoided under any circumstances, should be specially guarded against in such a climate, and ono's medicine chest need not contain more than a small bottle of chlorodyne, to bo used as a corrective, and a box of quinine capsules, to bo taken when cne feels more than ordinary run down.