GARDEN TOPICS

Ashburton Guardian, Volume 70, Issue 117, 2 March 1950, Page 3

GARDEN TOPICS

AMONG THE FLOWERS Written for the “Guardian" by A. F. MORGAN. N.D.E. (N.Z.). F.R.I.H. (N.Z.). Bulb planting in the open garden will be one of the main jobs during March, and the earlier this can be completed the better. Early plantingdoes not necessarily mean earlier lowering, but it does affect the size and quality of the flower, as the earlier planted bulbs will develop a larger root system, better capable of producing larger flowers and leaves than those planted on the late side. Apart from the always popular, anemones, ranunculi, narcissi, hyacinths and tulips, the season can be extended into early summer by using ixias and Dutch iris. Freesias are always great favourites and useful for a dry, warm corner. Freesia Burtoni is a New Zealand-raised hybrid and a big improvement on the older types, having very large fragrant flowers of a creamy colour. Crocus are usually considered to be too small individually for general garden planting, but the variety “Queen of the Blues” is the exception, having exceptionally large flowers of a pleasing blue shade. The “Crown Imperial” or “Tear Drop Lily” correctly known as Fritillaria imperialis is one of the most imposing early flowering bulbs and could be far more widely used in home gardens. It can be obtained in yellow, orange or orange-red and should be given a position somewhat sheltered from strong winds, but in full sun. The bulb itself has a characteristic unpleasant colour and because of its soft texture should nof be planted in a soil which may become waterlogged in winter. To prevent decay the usual practice is to surround the bulb with clean sand when planting. Generally speaking, whatever kinds of bulbs and conns are planted for spring and early summer displays, good deep, well-cultivated ground rich in humus will give the best results. Animal manures are most beneficial, but in all cases shoudl be well decomposed and dug in to such a depth that there is no possible chance of the bulbs coming into direct contact with the manure. Bone-meal is the safest fertiliser to use and should .be forked well into the soil before planting. The scheme of planting the various kinds will vary with the type of garden layout, but they are.always more effective when planted in groups of one kind, of at least a dozen bulbs. The best and safest time to plant, or lift and re-plant all kinds of lilies is when the top growth has all turned yellow; usually six to eight weeks after the plants have bloomed. The majority can be re-planted this month and on no account should they be left out of.the ground for any length of time. If this is unavoidable, then store the bulbs in a cool place in damp sand or sawdust. A soil which is well drained, deeply cultivated,' and rich in humus (leafmould and compost) and free of lime is most suitable for the members of the lily family. If the ground where they are to be planted is known to be too alkaline, or has been limed heavily in the past, a dusting of ordinary sulphur at loz to .the square yard will give the desired acidity.

Vegetable Garden ' •. Crops o£ winter greens should he kept cultivated and given frequent waterings during dry spells. Both the white butterfly and diamond-hacked moth caterpillars have to be kept under control if the crops are to be of any use. Dusting with Derr is- has proved disappointing in many cases, possibly because of the fact that the material must be fresh to be of use. Dusting the centres of the plants with dry arsenate of lead powder is best done on a calm evening and is recommended. There is sufficient dew at night now to make the powder stick. Alternatively, arsenate of lead may be used as a spray at ljozs to 4 gals, of water, and if the cabbage grey aphis is also present, use Black Leaf 40 at 11 teaspoons per gallon of soapy water. One spraying or dusting is not sufficient, but must be repeated at 10-14-day intervals until the pests are eliminated. Arsenate of lead is highly poisonous and should not be used at least six weeks before the cabbages are required for use. Onions (autumn sown) and shallots should be harvested now, and the former “strung” and hung up in a cool dry airy shed. Parsley is one of those things overlooked, yet very necessary in the garden. To maintain supplies it should be sown now for spring and summer use. Other sowings could include prickly spinach and silver beet to carry on the supply. With either of these crops a liberal dressing of blood and bone worked into the surface soil before sowing or planting gives satisfactory results. Any vacant ground in the kitchen garden should be dug over and sown with a cover crop of oats, barley or lupins for digging in later in the season. This practice of green manuring has everything to commend it, particularly when animal manures are so hard to obtain, and maintains the soil in good condition for growing all vegetable crops.

It is a common mistake to dig these green manure crops far too deeply into the soil, thereby losing much of their value to the following crops. Decomposition takes place far more rapidly and effectively in the upper layers of the soil so that it is only necessary to cover the green matter lightly. A following crop would not of course be sown or planted for several weeks after the green manure crop had been turned in. A dusting of lime applied to the ground immediately after the digging in, has the same beneficial effect as lime applied to the layers in the compost heap, in that it hastens decay and counteracts any acidity which may result from the decomposing material.

Potatoes are matured when the skin of the tuber is firm and will not rub off easily, but while top growth is healthy and vigorous, tuber development will continue. The top therefore gives the first indication of crop maturity and should be watched closely, as there is rarely any advantage in leaving the crop in the ground once that stage is reached. If the weather becomes wet, and warm conditions prevail, second growth may occur and the tubers may develop knobby outgrowths, or small useless tubers may grow at the expense of the large ones.