JOTTINGS FROM A TRAVELLER'S JOURNAL.

Ashburton Guardian, Volume IV, Issue 840, 12 January 1883, Page 2

JOTTINGS FROM A TRAVELLER'S JOURNAL.

• —* ■■ XL - Plattsburo—Commodore Macdonough —Lake Champlain and Lake George— Picturesque Nature of the Country —Saratoga—The American Fashionable World —The Hotels at Saratoga—Mineral Springs—A Warning to Visitors—Congress Hall Park:— A Fayo?i.te Promenade—Off to Albany—The Hudson River—The Cats-, kill Mountains—West Point—Arrival at New York.

Plattsburg is a pretty little place some 5,000 inhabitants, situated,at the mouth of the Taranac river, on a' plateau about fifty feet above the .level of Lake Champlain. Its chief industry is sawmills, worked by the economical power the river furnishes. From the window ot my hotel I looked out upon Macdonough’s Point, where the Commodore of that name—as the residents delight to tell you —anchored his vessel and awaited the British attack in 1814 You cannot please a PJattsburgher better than by listening with assumed humility to his narrative of the heroism of the commodore—how when one of his batteries was silenced by the superior artillery of the British ship Confidence, ■he swung his vessel round, pointing his own guns, and letting “ the Britishers have it in such style as soon forced them to surrender.” Englishmen of the present day may well allow Americans to boast of their prowess and success in the War of Independence, for we know they had right on their side ; and in the light of modern liberalism, we marvel how an English statesman could have been so insane as to attempt by force to rivet fetters upon, a people who were.determined and deserved to be free. Happily, .the feeling of animosity engendered by the conflict of former days is dying out,'. and Englishmen and Americana can now converse about the struggle without bitterness ; and I believe there is generally a recipreoal desire that nothing may occur again to place the two nations—so closely and naturally allied—in hostility to each, other. . , ' .

It was pleasant steaming down Lake Champlain. The steamer crossed and re-' crossed, touchingatvarioussettlemehts. It would .be tedious to describe them, all/ LeV it suffice to.aay that they all showed signs ! of . bustle,, business and progress. Ati Ticonderoga we left the steamer and were; .conveyed by train across the neck,.of land that divides Lake Champlain from Lake George. This short run presented nothing 1 worthy of special notice. Another steamer was waiting to convey us down Lake George. How shall I describe the beauties of this enchanting region? It: would scarcely be an exaggeration to call it fairyland. A sail up Port Chalmers is very fine, but people say that the scenery in the harbor of Sydney is hardly equalled in any other part of the world. . But Lake George must be allowed the palm. 1 Not only is the area of the Lake larger than Port Jackson, or at least that .par; tion of it usually seen by the traveller: on his- way to Sydney, but the views are more varied and picturesque. There .are numerous islands, some small, othera large, mostly clothed with verdure, and from almost : every commanding site on either shore, beautiful villas and spacious hotels look down upon the like. . . In /the background are ranges of hills, sometimes reaching an altiiude almost en-: titlingthcm to be called mountainous; and sloping plateaus. run down to the water’s edge, with here and there jutting points forming delightfully.romantic nooks and bays and tiny sheltered harbors. The vivid green, and diversified character of the foliage, is in bright contrast with the sombre hue of the everlasting-, gum trees of the Australian landscape. Altogether, I think I may say that the trip down Lake George afforded more delightful views than any hitherto enjoyed /during my travels in America. At Baldwin we bade farewell, to- the beautiful lake, and took our seats in a train waiting for us, and in little more than an hour reached the fashionable watering place Saratoga, which is the focus of the fashionable world of the United States. It was the height' of the season whan we arrived ; the hotels and public places were thronged. I could scarcely convey to your, readers by mere words an adequate idea of the size and magnificence of many of the hotels at Saratoga. One or two references must suffice. Congress Hall Hotel has a frontage of 419 feet on Broadway, with two wings extending back each 300 feet. The United States Hotel contains 917 rooms ; the dining room is 212 feet long and proportionately wide ; and the ball room is 112 feet long, 53 feet wide, and 26 feet from floor to ceiling, and is decorated in lavish style. . There are many other hotels on a similar scale. Indeed, ..Saratoga may be called a city of hotels, for when these places of entertainment are closed during the winter months the place is comparatively deserted. But the chief attractions of Saratoga I are the mineral springs that abound id . the immediate vicinity. The cognoscenti call them ‘'' chalybeate ” and “ acidulous saline,” according to their respective component properties. But I am not disposed to inflict on your readers the technical terms used to describe the varying qualities of the waters. I will merely say some of them are palateable, others nauseous in the extreme; but all of them are said to be valuable remedies in certain disorders. Each spring has its local history, and the bottled waters now form an important branch of commerce. I was amused by the crowds of loungers in rocking chairs on the balconies, and broad verandahs of the hotels, and particularly struck with the novelty of seeing well-dressed ladies promenading the marble pavements without bonnets. It is quite common to see ladies walking the streets in parlor costume, with nothing on their heads but their own—or somebody else’s—hair, many of them not even carrying a parasol. From June to, the end of September Saratoga I is thronged, and, as a natural consequence, there is a great diversity of character :, the best and the worst of society are found mingling, not necessarily in communion, but thrown together as occupants of the same hotel. It is not safe to leave a pair of boots outside the door of your room or an umbrella in the hall. If you do in all probability you may never see your property again. One gentleman in my hearing coipjdained at the office of the Arlington House that a good pair of.boots he had left outside his bedroom to be cleaned had disappeared: , /fhe only consolation he got frqm the clerk was— ‘‘ Oh, sir, all the good boots and shoos are. sure .to go

by the first train, which leaves early-in the morning." Congress Hal! Park is a fayorite resort. It is a spacious enclosure, laid out in lawus and flower-beds, with pavilions and fountains; and is well provided with seats. The charge for admission is ten cents, and for this small sum the visitor; may stsy at lopg as he likes, and see all there is seen. During the afternoon JTwas there a good brass band discoursed excellent music from-a handsome pagoda-like stand.. In the centre of One of the lawns a large was" inflated, and when sufficiently buoyant, a - lady, all alone, stepped into the car, amid the plaudits of the crowd of spectators. She went np steadily and gracefully to a considerable height,' arid , was then carried along horizontally by the breeze, until intervening trees hid hep > from, view, '' t How high she ascended;'or how’ far she Went, I cannot say;-I.was told she had made several previous aerial vcyages, and on one occasion . narrowly escaped destruction. She r was caught in her descan t by the topmost branches ‘of a tree, which had to be Jelled beforer she could, be released and - placed in safety uu terrafirma. For these fool-hardy ventures she received, the paltry sum of sQdols. %-r From Saratoga we went by trainj m Alb my, fhe capital of the State of New York. The principal db|ectidf interest is the new Capitol, a„fine building, in the Renaissance style ; ■ with the exceptidhi of the Federal Capitol at Washington, it is, perhaps, the largest and finest public building in America. . • - q From Albany, I went in a steamboat pltne same name down the famous Hudson river. I had often heard the scenery of the river extolled, and therefore; chose,,this jropto by a, day boat. The Americans: cerfcaj£sy excel in their river steamers. is .a .magnificent vessel, large in, size,,and in ;.fittings, and general appointments really superb. A first-class restaurant is maintained.on board, and if the traveller can afford it; and is inclined to the pleasures of the table, he may most recherche repast; or if his exchequer be limited be may have for a smaller burlay, what, the American’s term, “ a square meal."

On the whole I was not disappointed with the river, though I think it has been puffed to the verge of exaggeration. The scenery is vari . d ; and some of the turns of the river present a combination of views that is very fine. Time space forbid to enter much into detail. I may, however, particularise one or-two points of interest. Tourists who can spare the time would be repaid by stopping at Catskill and visiting the Mountain House, and the traditionary cabin where Rip Yan Winkle enjoyed his long nap,and the falls of KaatskilL Near PoUghy keepaie a bend in the river discloses a view of rocky precipitous" banks that broadly contrast with other reaches The jutting rocky platform called 'file Devil Danskammer, or dancing chamber, should .not be overlooked. ~ Here the Indians of former days held their religions festivals. West Point, too, is a placeSof note ; many incidents connected with the war of Independence cluster round it. f It was at this point that a huge chain'' wm stretched across the river to prevent the passage of British ■ vessels. Some of the great links are still preserved. Passing .Tarrytown and Tappau I wasTemitided of the fate of Major Andre, whb ; wdS i tared near this spot and hanged as a spy. The palisades are also an interesting Mrmatron, and, as the traveller nearatna great city he is interested .by the palatial residences which many of the wealthy citizens have built for themselves oni the banks of the broad river., ; Altogether toe voyage from Albany to How York, down the Hudson, is very enjoyable,. &MLX should recommend it in praference * land journey by rail. It was towards e.vening when we arrived at the city, and I soon found most comfortable, thoujh rather expensive, quarters at the Hdtel Brunswick in Fifth Avenue.

[to be continued.]