MIDDLE EASTERN WHIMSICALITIES:

Down the Hatch, Issue 1, 19 January 1944, Page 3

MIDDLE EASTERN WHIMSICALITIES:

. .. ./ . BEFORE I. one of that strange tribe, still consistently referred •to as "furlough men," embark upon this whimsical treatise and advice to " young Kiwis, I would like it made quite clear that any reference to any place docs not. he.wmrily mem that wo arc going there. . I am voino- to speak in this article about life -hi Egypt, but for Pete’s sake don’t'ccme along in six week’s time and. say, "'/’hat the devil are wo doing in Timbuktu? The Arabs probably know where we are going - they know everything - but we do not. ' ' z ' Ono's first, view of Egypt is, unfortunately for all concerned, the Port of. Suez. It is not a pretty sight,-hor has it a pretty smell. Previous disembarkations have taken place by- way of lighters from shir to • shore, raid I might add that the'lighters have not been used exclusively tor : troops; the first- fen; Zealrnd..troops -to land on .12th februnry, 1910 followed hard on the heels, of sycr'-l 'shipments of-animals'. On shore- y ou will see a motley assortment of "feHahin," tho rooter natives of ths middle Bast, -a; few Berberines, dark-skinned natives of the ■ Sudan, and many script wharf loirtcrs who aro supposed, to bo wharf labourers. Ci' the classes all but the more lofty Sudanese; will beg, borrow or steal cigarettes, food or money. One of. your first sights will assuredly, be that of a group of poorly attired-natives fighting over a cigarette ■ butt. If you give them a cigarette', they will be -grateful and nuteur,"llhamdulillah," (Praise be to Allah) I but : it is as well'-to rcinernber that they will pick your rockets, if you give them .half a chance. Its; all- in the .game to then. . ' ~ ‘ . ■ - The smell, the- dust and the flies - these are Suez. -You cannot' . osenpo either one of these elements anywhere in Egypt, and -in many parts you will be overcome.with all three pestilences 'at .one©.. .. Hoar native quarters and.among tho roofless ruins of mud houses, in. which live large families and all their animals, the -smell, dust and flics are at their worst. ....J .... ; ■ ■ ./.;.. The t rain journey to Cairo is uncomfortable and dusty, but it is pasted with interest,' You will pass through your first do sort', miles and ■miles of earth that is hurl packed by the feet of Tino, dotted’with ,Camelthorn bushes, with occasional piles of hard jagged rock. It is not the desert of .your .imagination; there- nre-no. vn4ulai-ing mile s of sand-dunes, none of the- desert of "Beau Godtc." There ..are- a few sand-hills but -

they are not. continuous. ' - Here you will see an odd .cornel, the utilitarian. ship of the desert,’ who carrier a look .on hid fade-' that is reminiscent of a' "disparaging wild . disapproving maiden aunt. .At your approach ho- raises his disdainful / o glance and glowers- at you. under long eyelashes, chewing the while with a rhythmic circular -notion of tie. lower jaw. /-""■■■.■■'o'/./.o . . Through, the train• windows' on your right you can. sue. that which .. heralds a now civilization .mid proclaims to the world the glory of another ago, the Groat Pyramid of Cheops. . This huge monument and tomb of the M Pharoah, Cheops, which stands -1-81 out .high raid, covers an. arc a of In acres and which'Was 'built over 5000 -years, ago, is well’'worth a visit. . But, as ■' well as being a lasting monument to' what- is really the. cradle of - civilization, it .is also a signpost; to shew a. wanderer the way to. the capital of) '• Egypt. ". - 0 ■■/ - ; . ■ ■ . ‘• . .. On'either side you will see cultivated area's. ■■ 'feefever there is •- a. waterway. in Egypt, you will find, also -the means of raising. the water.,.’-:; to .the level ,of the fields. The result of their methods,.' 'primitive ' ' as ttoy nay" bo, is 'land fertile enough to be ar.two or even' throe crons each year. ■.■■''' ' 7 BMe Among the fields arc numerous 'Arab.villages.-,.-. In filth and squalor ' it would ...be hard to find anything in the 'world that is their equal.' ; - EjSjH Among the tumble -down dwellings -of' mud and.straw, most of-. which .-.re .roof-' less,, stands tail-flicking water buffalo, evil-smelling goats, several imperturbable donkeys and an occasional nonchalant camel. Around the feet of these creatures swart/ tens and naked children. ' - ... The contrast- between these outskirts of Cairo and. the airy modern city which 'houses its European inhabitants and its many thousands of middle-class and wealthy Egyptians, is o very narked one. .Cairo-has • often been... ’ called - the city of contrast. - Here squalor and .splendour •■ exist side'by side..' In one' street can bo., feund tall nodem buildings, ; and close by the hovels of tho native population with all the dust rand ' filth of -ages.upon then; ,■ . ' (To be continued). ■ ■ ■ . . 1 M.U.'- ■