Lake Taupo

Tu Tangata, Issue 34, 1 February 1987, Page 29

Lake Taupo

Taupo is a considerable stretch of fresh water when measured by any international yardstick. Being 40 kilometers in length and 29 in width with a shoreline consisting of high cliffs and a sequence of seemingly never ending bays, travelling by canoe came into its own. Unfortunately for travellers, Taupo could be a rough stretch of water and journeying on the lake could only be undertaken when weather conditions were favourable. Ernest Dieffenbach, the scientist found this out in 1842 after reaching Taupo by way of the Waipa which is a major tributary of the Waikato.

Dieffenbach who was an understanding person, was nevertheless left champing on the bit in annoyance, when he was unable to hire a canoe to proceed along the lake because the locals with their knowledge of weather and lake lore judged conditions hazardous in the extreme. After a few days delay when Dieffenbach was able to embark, conditions were still choppy and the scientist had cause in retrospect to thank the judgement of his Ngati Tuwharetoa hosts. According to one legend, Tamatea took his departure from Taupo by way of the Huka Falls Hukanui - and the

Aratia rapids. This rash act was undertaken against local advice. There is confusion as to whether loss of life occurred. Johannes Andersen in “Maori place-names” suggests that this shooting of the local Niagara is a local legend. It certainly appears so, for in other accounts Tamatea and his party reached the Bay of Plenty. Anyway this was not the way to head North, for the route was across country to the left which would lead a party to the more sluggish flowing Waipa. This historic drawing is by J.J. Merrett a surveyor who accompanied Dieffenbach and records the scene as viewed from the southern end of Taupo. In the background is Mt Tauhara where the Waikato empties out of the lake.