Aunty Huia

Tu Tangata, Issue 27, 1 December 1985, Page 55

Aunty Huia

Te ringawera

Marvellous Mussels

Mussels used to be the poor little sister, an ugly sister at that, to oysters and scallops. No longer.

There’s been a revolution in mussel quality and, consequently, in mussels as a gourmet food.

Thanks to commercial farming, young and tender cultivated mussels are readily available.

Picking your own mussels from the rocks at low tide is an old New Zealand pastime; there’s nothing like the flavour of seafood straight from the sea. But these blue-shell mussels (the Mytilus genus) have to be eaten fresh. Too often they have turned up days later in a bath of heavy malt vinegar, big and tough, sharp and chewy.

The cultivated mussels are another species, the green-lipped mussel (Perna canaliculus), the same that is attracting worldwide attention for its medically important by-product. These are harvested when only 14 or 15 months old and 60 to 70mm long. Unlike mussellovers in such mussel-loving countries as Belgium and France, New Zealanders don’t like them any smaller. At this size they are still sweet and tender.

In the comparatively unpolluted waters of the Marlborough Sounds, the cultivated mussels are grown on vertical ropes. When ready for harvesting, the ropes are run through a ring that gently tears off the mussels. They are then washed, steamed open, beards and shells removed and within 48 hours are potted up ready for sale.

The marinated mussels now available are packed in a light acidic solution that allows them to be kept under refrigeration for up to 12 weeks without spoiling. They can be eaten as they are (great with drinks), served in their marinade as a salad or they can be rinsed for use in a variety of ways. The marinade leaves a slightly sharp flavour so bear this in mind when using them in recipes that require fresh mussels.

Whether fresh or marinated, mussels suit simple dishes. Elaborate recipes are unnecessary; excess heat toughens the flesh. An essential part of paella.

mussels add interest to all fish soups and stews. They can be fried in a light batter or minched for fritters. And, darn it, children (of all ages) will eat them straight from the fridge as though they were cookies.

As well as being more-ish, they’re very nutritious. High in protein, they also contain considerable quantities of calcium, phosphorous and iron. Through their complex feeding process they have the ability to absorb and pass on many beneficial nutrients from the sea.

What’s more, they are extremely low in carbohydrate and pack only about 10 calories per mussel.

Mussels are lazy feeders. They like to nestle where there is great water movement to bring large quantities of food (in the form of phylo-planton) to them. They’re ideal for lazy chefs, too, since once shelled they are ready for use, need little cooking and there’s no wastage. Bring on the mussels.

Pasta with Roman Sauce

lkg mussels in shell or -300 g shelled mussels

2-3 cloves garlice, minced 1 large onion, chopped 2 tablespoons olive oil

750 g tomatoes, skinned and chopped, or 450 g tin whole tomatoes

300 g ribbon noodles Fresh parsley, chopped Salt and pepper

Clean shellfish, open them in a little water over high heat, remove from shells. Cook pasta in plenty of boiling salted water until tender but not soft, about 7 minutes. Turn into a buttered ovenproof dish and keep warm.

In a medium-sized saucepan heat olive oil, add garlic and onion and saute gently for a few minutes till golden. Add tomatoes and allow liquid to reduce a little. When sauce looks thick, add mussels, chopped into 2 or 3 if large. Pour sauce over cooked pasta, sprinkle generously with chopped parsley and serve. Serves 4.

Mussel Chowder 2 rashers bacon 2 medium potatoes, cubed 2 carrots, chopped 2 onions, chopped 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablepoons flour 300 ml milk 400 g prepared mussels Salt and pepper Chopped parsley

Chop the bacon and fry lightly in a large pot. Add chopped potatoes, carrots and onions, stir well with bacon and then cover with water (about 2 cups). Salt to taste and simmer gently until tender.

In another pot, melt butter, stir in flour and cook about 2 minutes. Stir the milk in slowly, season with salt and pepper. Add the chopped mussels, simmer for a few minutes.

When vegetables are ready, slowly combine the pot of vegetables with the fish sauce, thining the sauce with the cooking liquid. Check seasoning, bring all back to the boil. Serve in large bowls, garnish with chopped parsley. Serves 6.

Moules A La Mariniere

The classic mussel dish. 2 litres small mussels in their shells 225 ml white wine 1 large onion, chopped Bunch of parsley, chopped Pepper, freshly ground 50g butter

Clean mussels and rinse thoroughly under running water. Put them into a deep frying pan with the wine, onion, parsley and pepper, cover and cook over good heat until they open, about 6 minutes. Remove from heat, take out mussels and debeard them but keep in shells. Put into warmed soup bowls, strain liquid in which they were cooked and reheat. Add the butter, and a little chopped parsley, pour over the mussels. Serve immediately, with a large table napkin, a fork and a soup spoon for each guest and a bowl for the empty shells. Serves 4-6.

Mussel Kebabs

500 g prepared mussels Salt, pepper, fresh thyme Juice of a lemon 125 g lean bacon 1 green pepper 1 onion 5 tablespoons barbecue sauce

Cut the green pepper and bacon into chunks and the onion into eighths. Arrange mussels sprinkled with seasonings, green pepper, bacon and onion pieces on to skewers, brush with barbecue sauce and place under the grill for 3 minutes, turn and allow other side to grill for 1-2 minutes. Enough for 4.

Mussel Salad Bowl 1 buttercrunch or tom thumb lettuce 1 clove garlic 500 g marinated mussels 1 cup chopped celery 4 spring onions, chopped 2 tomatoes, sliced 2 tablespoons black olives 1 cup mayonnaise 2 tablespoons lemon juice Few sprigs of dill

Rub garlic clove generously round salad bowl. Prepare lettuce, break into large pieces and line bowl. Toss together drained mussels, celery and spring onions. Mix mayonnaise and lemon juice together and turn the mussel mixture in this. Tip into salad bowl and strew tomatoes, black olives and chopped dill across the top. Serve with crisp French bread, a good lunch dish for 4.

Mussels St George 40 medium-sized mussels IOOg butter 1 onion, chopped 3 cloves garlic, crushed 2 small leeks, chopped 1 bay leaf 200 ml dry white wine 30g flour 120 ml cream 2 egg yolks Salt and pepper

First find your mussels, preferably at a West Coast beach or else whole mussels from a good fish shop. Debeard them and scrub shells clean.

In a deep pot melt 60g of the butter and gently saute onion and garlic for a minute or so. Add leeks and bay leaf, then continue to saute for 2 more minutes. Add the mussels, salt and pepper to taste and pour over the wine. Cover the pot and simmer gently for 10-15 minutes until mussel shell starts to open. As each opens transfer to a serving dish, remove the top half of the shell, leaving the mussel sitting in the lower shell.

When all the mussels have opened, strain the liquid in the pot into a small saucepan, bring to boil. Cream the remaining butter and flour together, use to thicken liquid to make a sauce. When sauce is smooth, remove pan from heat and add cream and lightly beaten egg yolks. Reheat sauce, pour over mussels, decorate with parsley, serve immediately. Serves 4.

Ragout of Shellfish 500 g mussels 500 g terakihi or other white fish IOOg scallops IOOg cooked king prawns in shell (about 6-8) 125 g mushrooms, sliced 1 onion, sliced 3 cloves garlic, crushed 25g butter 1 tablespoon tomato puree Salt and pepper Fresh herbs (basil, parsley, chervil) 1 desertspoon sugar 1 tablespoon flour 1 glass white wine Chopped parsley

Melt butter in a deep heavy pan and saute sliced onion and garlic. When golden, add tomato puree, salt, pepper, sugar and chopped herbs. Mix together, then stir in flour and allow to cook for 2 minutes over low heat. Pour in the wine and cook for 5 minutes, adding more wine or water if necessary to obtain a smooth sauce.

Cut terakihi into large cubes and add with mushrooms to the sauce. Stir occasionally over heat until fish and mushrooms are cooked (about 5 minutes), then add mussels and scallops sliced into 2 or 3 pieces. Just before serving add the prawns and allow to heat through. Turn into a tureen or deep dish, sprinkle with chopped parsley, serve on rice. Enough for 6 as an entree.

Mussels Au Gratin 250 g mussels, with shells 1 cup water Vi cup dry white wine 125 g browned breadcrumbs V2 cup finely grated Parmesan cheese Chopped parsley

Small mussels are best for this dish. If mussels are still in their shells, clean them and put into pan with the water and wine, bring to boil and leave until they open. Remove from heat, drain of the liquor and reserve. Remove the beards.

Arrange mussels in their shells in a heatproof dish. If ready-prepared mussels are used, heat the water and wine together. Cover the mussels with breadcrumbs, sprinkle generously with Parmeasan cheese. Pour enough warmed liquor to cover the bottom of the dish but not swamp the mussel shells. Bake in a moderate oven for 10-15 minutes until cheese in melted. Sprinkle with parsley. Serves 4 as an entree.