On the Land

New Zealand Tablet, Volume LII, Issue 8, 4 March 1925, Page 53

On the Land

4 MARKET REPORTS. At Burnside last week 271 head of fat cattle were yarded, against 282 on the previous week. The bulk of the yarding consisted of cow and light steer beef, prime bullocks being in short supply. Prime bullocks were dearer by 15s per head than the previous week, and cows and unfinished steers sold at the preceding week's rates. Values were: Heavy prime steers to £ls 10s, prime to £l2 10s, medium to £9, extra prime heifers to £l2 10s, prime to £B. Fat ■Sheep.—There was a slightly larger yarding than on the preceding week, 2183 being penned as against 1916 at the previous market. Several pens of prime wethers were forward, hut the bulk of the yarding consisted of me-dium-weight freezing wethers and ewes. The market opened at the previous week's rates for heavy sheep, and continued steady, while for freezing weights values hardened to the extent of Is to 2s per head as the sale progressed. Prime heavy wethers made to 50s 3d, prime to 38s 3d, medium 31s to 36. Fat Lambs. There was a small yarding, only 915 being forward. The quality generally was poor, only a few pens of really prime lambs being forward. For finished lambs there was a keen sale at the previous week's rates. Extra prime made to 455, prime to 41s, medium .to 355. Pigs.—An entry of 140 fats and 69 stores. Prices for porkers and baconers were up about ss.

-X CONIFEROUS TREES: METHODS OF PRUNING. It is sometimes necessary to use the saw or pruning knife on pines, cypresses, and coniferous plants, and when this has to be done, the work should be undertaken before the sap is in full flow (says a writer in an exchange). If left until growth commences there is a risk of bleeding or gumming, and this would mean a weakening of the tree. Pines usually grow symmetrically, and they should be pruned as little as possible. It is sometimes necessary to remove the lower branches to lessen the risk of damage by fire, or injury from cattle, and then there should be a clear trunk of 6ft or 7ft. When this has to be done, the branch should be sawn off close to the main stem, for if a spur is left, it not only looks unsightly, but decay may set in, and extend to the main trunk. "When the saw is used in the usual way by 'cutting downwards, a splintering of the bark and stem is often caused, but this can be prevented by sawing a little bit upwards, and then proceeding with the downward motion. In the case of valuable trees it is well -. smooth over the rough cuts made by the / saw with a sharp knife, and then to paint the wound over with Stockholm tar. This not only helps to heal the wound, but it prevents the admission of wet, which may «et up decay.

GROWING ONIONS: SECRET OF SUCCESS. - The first secret of successful onion growing or the way to grow a crop of onions which are good enough for the show bench is to properly prepare the onion bed. The second secret is to get the seed in early, so that the bulbs have got a good long season of growth. A good onion bed will consist of good, deep rich soil, not one full of fresh manure, but one from which the first sting of the manure has been taken, and is just nicely rich. Soil that is not rich enough may be manured now. Some well-rotted cow or stable manure may be worked into the top and bottom layers, using the longest strawy manure for the bottom ones and the short manure for the top. The original surface soil should be placed back where it was, however, without any manure. Before sowing care should be taken to see that the soil is not lumpy, sticky, nor loose; it should be firm, fine, and dry. If the top soil is thoroughly stirred up the wind will soon dry it and this can be done by a shallow hoeing or with a pull through cultivator. Deep stirring should be avoided. As some soils are infested with eel worms, the best method is to raise the seed in boxes of sterilised soil, adopting one of the methods previously given for sterilising soil. The boxes should be about 4£in deep, and adequate drainage should be provided. A mixture of fibrous loam two parts, decayed leaf mould one part, and some old horse manure, with a little sand added to make it porous, makes a good compost. Once the seeds are germinated they require plenty of fresh air, and should be stood out in the open until ready for transplanting. The strongest should be planted out at least 12in apart.