THE WONDERLAND OF THE NORTH

New Zealand Tablet, Volume XXXI, Issue 24, 11 June 1903, Page 5

THE WONDERLAND OF THE NORTH

(By our Auckland correspondent.) 7w ?°^ rUa V *l th # s wonder *ul sights, has been brought, by a cons derate Government, within easy reach of the people. Between this fire and steam riddled region and wSh ™ cr n CaP l tal \ he u e is now a dai] y train service. With a small party, which included Rev. Father Furlong ?J? ♦ ?n edlcts> y° ur ,. corr espondent left Auckland station at 10 a.m., whirling through the country upon a bright autumn day past verdure clad fiekfls and snuc little homesteads and over swamp and bramble growth to the majestic waters of the Waikato and Waipa rivers It is a new world to those habitually surrounded by brick and mortar and the bustle of a big city. Soon we pass the Matamata estate, covering 20 square miles of country in the hands of the Assets Board, and which before long, will be closely settled, as the Government has decided to take it compulsorily. Then our course lies by the model poultry farm, an extensive Government undertaking. After that we enter a vast tract of grazing country, where our panting engine halts to replenish its boilers from a round brick cistern, several of which may be seen along the line, recalling, on a miniature scale, the round towers of dear old Ireland Quite a crowd of Maori children of both sexes gather in a group, and. with rolling eyes, extended arms, and swaying of their bodies, these young aboriginals attempt an impromptu haka, in the midst of which a few pence aie thrown from the carriage windows. Away we go ae;,un. The shades of evening begin to steal us, and we enter the forest For nearly an hour our engine draws its train slowly up the mountain side until it reaches the flag station, Maanuku, on the summit 1888 loot abo\e sea level, and 14 miles from Rotorua. In the twilight we descend the mountain, and very soon catch a glimpse of the blue waters of Lake Rotorua and at o 50 p.m. we steam into the busy station of

Rotorua. Through wide, well-cared streets, lighted with electricity we reached our hotel. To a first visitor the sulphurous odor is_ strange and disagreeable. Upon alighting from the vehicle a cheery voice welcomes me to Rotorua and looking around I saw an old friend in the person of the Rev Father Holierhoek, one of the pioneers of the Mill 11 ill missionaries. After dinner the Government sanatorium and grounds were visited. Under the electric light we strolled o\er the spacious well-kept paths. It was here a first acquaintance was made with the boiling springs, several of which are to be seen close to the handsome band-stand, upon which a brass band was playing. Close by there is a large marq,uee, in which i ffreshments are served out by obligiing Maori girls with Maori mats dangling from their waists. This estabment is run by the Government. The three principal baths are the Blue, the Priest's, and the Duchess. The latter was construct od specially for the Duchess of York, and the water was turned into it for the first time for the Duchess when she visited Rotorua, but her Royal Highness refused to enter it. In charge of one of the baths there is an Irishman about whom a good story was told me Some time back a young sprig of the Irish aristocracy, accompanied by a lady, made daily visits to the grounds. It was summer time, and a big", fat halfrajsto Maori was in the habit of stretching out under the trees every day and indulging in a siesta. Pointing to tho .sleeper on one occasion, the young aristocrat asked the Irishman in charge ' if he were a specimen of the New Zealand working man ? ' ' No,' came the ready answer, ' h^ is a specimen of our New Zealand landlords, swelled out by fat rents, and who sleeps while his tenants toil.' The floral display on the grounds is on a large and, magnificent scale. It would be difficult to find

a better display of chrysanthemums. On the morning after our arrival we were early astir, and Father Holierhoek took us over the Maori settlement of Ohinemutu, on the banks of Lake Rotorua. Our party had to proceed in Indian file. The genial Maori missioner, who was in the lead, would every now and again look behind to see that we kept in line. Any deviation from the path would likely end in one's disappearance below. For a full hour we wended our way past boiling springs, the more dangerous of which were fenced round. Into one of these eight years ajgo a horse belonging to Father Holierhoek fell, and several dlays later was found completely boiled. It was a novel sight to witness food being cooked in the boiling springs all over the settlement, and the clothes boiled and washed, and snow-white at that. Going through this settlement at night, even the old hands never venture out without a lighted lantern. At the Runanga, or meeting house, where an important Maori meeting was being held, and attended by Maoris from the surrounding kiangas we were made most welcome. The Catholic church was next visited. The interior is certainly unique and striking. Around the walls the following may be seen, ' Kia noho koe ki te miha i nga 1 ratapu me nga haringa tapu.' Translation : 'Be present at Mass on Sundays and holy days.' The above is worked in white flax in narrow strips on a black ground. The Papal tiara and the keys of Peter are on one panel, and in it alone there are over 1700 stitches. On another are shown representations of the Sacred Heart ; a monatrance ; thurible ; a cock crowing, reminding us of St. Peter's denial. In another panel is worked a harp, surrounded by shamrocks. The work on this panel \\a« suggested to the designer through the fact of thiee sons of Erin always occupying a seat beneath it. The whole design was the idea of the Rev. Father Holierhoek. Tho choir loft was erected by the Hjev. Father Kreyrnborg, now in charge at Rotorua. This energetic priest is at present erecting a new presbytery next to the church, and was to be seen every day toiling in true orthodox carpenter's garb. The old presbytery close by has bc^n given to the Sisters of St. Joseph, who have within the last month settled in the township. We visited their school, which had been opened within the last fortnight, yet there were fully 30 pupils present, and more promised for next week f . A number of Maori children was amongst them. Upon the blackboard was written in chalk the hymn, ' Hail, Queen of heaven,' and the lusty manner in which it was sung showed how promptly the good Sisters had inculcated a love for eternal things in the minds of the children. The Sisters came over specially from Sydney to this district. On Sunday morning the Rev. Father Furlong preached on the Real Presence, and the Rev. Father Holierhoek immediately afterwards redelivered the same sermon in Maori to the natives present. Whakarewarewa now received our attention. It is about two miles from Koiorua. The boiling springs there are certainly nerve stirring One name Pohutu is a terror. It emits volumes of boiling water, which rise occasionally to a height of 60 feet Ihe Brain Pot is a round, angj v seething mass, and is so named because in olden times the brains of capti\es were thrown into it. For an ai ea of many miles round, under the able guidamcc of Father Holierhoek, we \ lsited sights to describe which would cause my readeis to say 3 was ' drawing the long bow.' Wo visited the carved house for which the. German Government had offered £3000, but its deportation was forbidden It is now owned by Mr. Nelson, proprietor of the Geyser Hotel, a hostelry worthy of any city in the colonies The landlady is a Galway woman, and made our party at home right away She gave us free use of the private hot baths connected with the hotel, and we made fecveral journeys to Whakarewarewa to indulge m them. Ihe ' round trip 'is the principal attraction of tho tour. 'It is under Government management. Unless four or more tourists present themselves the trip will not be taken At 7 30 a m. we got into the coach at the door of our hotel, and when all had been gathered at the various houses we mastered 11 exclusive of our jehu It was a lo\ely bright autumn morning, with a cloudless sky and a sharp bracing breeze. Leaving Rotorua behind us we traversed a manuka-clad plain, and soon entered the forest, wending our way through tho giant trees, the early morning sun gleaming now and again upon a scene enhanced by a most luxuriant and varied undergrowth. It was most exhiliratmg Suddenly in the depth of the forest we come upon Takitapu or the Blue Lake. It is like indigo in color, and while we aie expressing our delight at the sight we had just left, another and much larger lake, green in color, is before us and named Kotokakahi. The old settlement of Wairoa is now reached, where the party leaves the brake, and is taken in hand bY a guide, who shows us the devastation all round caused by tho eruption of larawora in the eighties. The ruined dwellings told us in lanr iniage more eloquent than words of that «^|».l . tune Catching eagerly every word from tho lips of Rin. and noting well every spot pointed out to us where whole families were enveloped, and miraculous escapes occurred we reached the immense lake, Taravvera Pour stalwart Maoris were at the oars to row us over eight miles of blue waters On the bow of the boat appeared the euphonious name ' Hincoroto,' which rendered into English means < Lady of the Lake ' Vve passed right under the mountain of Tarawera, on whose top and sides gi eat rndOTmndlus fissures were seen. From the mountain all vegetation has disappeared. Presently we disembark, and a walk of one mile brings us to Lake Rotomahena. Before the eruption it was possible in a canoe to go from Lake Tarawera to Lake Rotomahana. This mile of deb-

ris was thrown up in four hours, in fact, Lake Rotomahana was completely blown away, and with it the famous pink and white terraces. The water of Rotonmhana is green in color. Our boat was rowed to that part of the lake where the geysers are very active. Here a. novel sensation awaited us. Under the boat we could feel the boiling water thumping like a mighty propeller One of the lady occupants cried out : ' Oh ! do take us v- v rr xs L The an £ rv and active geysers here, into which the boat was backed consonant with safety, are truly marvellous Disembarking again, we trudge away over volcanic debris extending over many miles, smothering all growth, and giving the country a dreary aspect. Desolation reigns all around. By a narrow beaten track we ascend a rugged range between 800 and 900 feet m*£ /? tran S c sights are seen ,while ascending this hill. Ihe action of the rain upon the volcanic debris has resulted in the formation of what might aptly be termed stalagmites covering the whole country side. At the summit a small hut has been erected, into which all enr ter, and, hampers being opened, a welcome meal was partaken. Looking down into the valley our guide points out to us The Famous Waimangu Geyser, the quiescent state of which would scarcely lead* one to imagine that in its angry moods it throws up boulders--and black, boiling, mudd" water to heights varying from 200 to 1000 feet. The disappointing news was conveyed that Waimangu was not likely to go ofl before midnight. As a matter of fact it did go off that night at 10 o'clock. The indication of a ' shot ' is that the contents rise to hi.gh water mark, which is plainly discernible in the geyser fully half an hour before. We struck low water. Danger posts are erected all around warning visitors, 'so far and no further.' A Minister of the Crown from the State of New South Wales recently had a narrow escape from death. During an eruption he foolishly crossed the danger line, and finding himself in too hot a corner he ran for one of the shelter sheds amidst loud cries of alarm from the occupants, when an immense boulder crashed to the earth close beside him. Several tents were pitched in the locality, where numbers of people awaited an eruption. At the head of the rift a large wooden accommodation house was in course of erection by the Government Tourist Department in order that visitors might put up there, and view this wonderful geyser, alleged to be at the present time the greatest in the world. Fortunate are those who view it when in eruption. From the heights we were favored with 'a" fine view of snow-capped Tongariro. At the Government house before mentioned the coach awaited us, and with a declining sun we wheeled away over a splendid road nearly twenty miles, back to Rotorua. En route we passed Earthquake Flat, so called because of its, in places, depressed surface. Inhabitants tell of its depressions during the great eruption of 1886. Father Holierhoek pointed out to us two native villages, in both of which he ministered a decade back, in primitive churches erectod by himself, but which now may .be classed with the loneliness of Goldsmith's ' Sweet Auburn,' owing to the migratory spirit if their former inhabitants It was dark, when we reached Rotorua. During the twelve hours that had passed since we left in the morning we had Mewed sights and scenery to compare with which it wotuld be difficult to find. Next morning in a steam launch we crossed Lake Rotorua, nearly nine miles across, and after a short walk reached Hamurana stieam, where we embarked, the party filling two small boats This is one of the most picturesque and charming spots of the many to be seen in this interesting district. The water is icy cold, and so clear that the bed of the stream is plainly discernible, and presents to the eye a kaleidoscopic view, the effect of which is quite entrancing. We shortly arrive at Hamurana's source, an immense hole, into which all gaze with wonder and astonishment. It emits in every 24 hours 5,000,000 gallons of cold water, all of which filters into Lake Rotorua. To the arid plains of the Commonwealth what a boon Hamurana would be. It is the custom to throw pennies into the spring, and so great is the force of water issuing that the coins sink but a. few feet, where they hover for some time, eventually finding their way to ledges at the sides, which literally swarm with copper coins of the realm. No one has yet been venturesome enough to try and ' scoop the pool.' We are soon aboard the launch, and shortly reach tho island of Mokoia, which stands, sentinel like, in the midst of Rotorua's waters. Sixpence toll is collected of each passenger by the Maoris on the island. I was pleased to note that the natives exempted Fathers IToherhoeki and Furlong. The principal attraction was Hinemoa's bath, in si7e about 12 feet square, about whom and her lover, Tutanekai, the Maoris have a pretty legend. Since, however Hinemoa's immersion in the famous bath, an extra shovel or two of coal must have been heaped on below, for at present it wofild be too hot a trysting place for our New Zealand Romeo and Juliet. Ngongotaha Mountain, on tho mainland, was next visited Tho Tourist Department has made a good coach road to the summit, from which an excellent panoramic view of the country around was obtained. White Island, in the Bay of Plenty, with its overhead sulphuric vapor, a goodly stretch of the east coastline, Lakes Rotoiti and RotoiVia. steaming Tikitere, and an admirable view of tho rapidly extending township of Rotorua and its suburb Whakarewarewa are seen from the mountain top. (Continuod on page 15.)