THE WORLD'S SUMMIT

New Zealand Listener, Volume 29, Issue 742, 2 October 1953, Page 12

THE WORLD'S SUMMIT

NEW ZEALANDERS AND EVEREST, by L. V.-Bryant; A. H. and A. W. Reed: 3/6.

{Reviewed by

John

Pascoe

Plas timely booklet will be of great interest to the, general public of New Zealand. It is written by the man most eminently qualified for such an important task. "Dan" Bryant was in the thirties perhaps the greatest leader of an active guideless generation in the Southern Alps, and his friends rejoiced at his inclusion in the 1935 British Everest expedition. So well were his qualities of unselfishness, technical skill and cheerfulness appreciated that they laid the foundation for the inclusion of other New Zealanders in subsequent expeditions. Bryant has produced’ a valuable summary in true perspective. He introduces the lay reader to the difficulties of the Southern Alps "that train men _ for greater tests overseas and explains that our loose rock. intricate icefalls and swift rivers need initiative and resource. Heavy swagging and high camping in bad weather are also said to be experiences that prove valuable in the Himalaya. An excellent account of early Everest expeditions, with the emphasis on ex- _

ploration, is followed by his own memorable achievements, related clearly and modestly. From the back numbers of the New Zealand Alpine Journal he is able to sketch the stirring Himalayan history made by Scott Russel] in-the Kara. korum, Bill Packard on Annapurna IV. > —

Earle Riddiford and his splendid team on Mukut Parbat in the Garhwal. He also refers to the successful Tararua party recently returned from Nepal. The drama of the new route to Everest from the south honours the names of Hillary, Lowe and Riddiford. The story of the final success of the 1953 party with Hillary on the summit and Lowe in close support is necessarily brief, but serves as a good introduction for the forthcoming expedition book by Sir John Hunt. Throughout his narrative Bryant is explicit and concise, and there are no technicalities to confuse the layman. The booklet is supported by a good map and by 22 magnificent photographs whose blocks are of fine quality. The proceeds of the first edition are promised to the "Hillary-Lowe Everest Fund" to assist further New Zealand expeditions to the Himalaya, and it is safe to prophesy that the booklet will have a wide sale here and overseas. Bryant has served New Zealand well.