REARING AND TRAINING A SHEEP DOG

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 76, Issue 1, 15 January 1948, Page 33

REARING AND TRAINING A SHEEP DOG

' I ’HE well-trained, obedient sheep dog is not pro- •*- duced hurriedly or without effort. His efficiency is the result of careful attention by his trainer to breeding, selection, and the art of, sound training. In this article E. G. Broad, of Cambridge, deals with the breeding and rearing of a sheep dog and the necessary handling and training he' must be given from birth until he is qualified to work expertly with sheep.

'T’HE sheep dog is commonly called a working collie or A collie dog. The origin of the name, collie is obscure, but the most likely explanation is given in a dictionary which suggests that the name collie comes from col (meaning black) and that certain Highland sheep known as colleys because of their black faces and legs were tended by a dog.

The working sheep dog . must not be confused with the show-bench collie. The former is superior in intelligence and instinct to.all other breeds. Peculiarly shy in disposition, he is usually slow to make friends with strangers, but once he gains confidence through proper treatment his attachment surpasses that of any other animal. His great charm . as a companion is his strong attachment and anxiety to please, and this is shown by the way he watches every look and motion of his master and the readiness with which he interprets them. Few dogs possess the active, resourceful brain of the working sheep dog. Sound in generalship, gentle, judicious, slow to anger, and quick to action, he is at his best as a worker. He is ever ready to do his utmost for his master at all,times if he can be made to understand what is required of him. This problem of understanding is with him right throughout life, and too many die as they have lived—perplexed.

The show-bench collie, having been bred for many generations as fancier pets; and chiefly for appearance, is not as a rule a suitable dog to select for training for stock

work. His intellectual qualities have been dulled by years of idleness.

BREEDING

There is no doubt that the working sheep dog’s close association with man over many years and the greater care in the selection of stock for breeding, have developed a more intelligent animal and one better suited structurally to perform the work required of him. , Sheep dog trials demonstrate the extent to which the intelligence of these dogs can be developed by training. Breeding for intelligence is far different from breeding to type, where the points are so clearly discernible and faults more easily rectified. In addition, the human factor has to be considered. A moderately-intelligent dog may be developed into a very clever worker by an expert trainer; and an exceptionally-intelligent animal may become only a mediocre worker in the hands of a less expert man.

' To breed .successfully it is necessary to . study carefully the characteristics not merely of the two individuals about to be mated, but those of their respective

families for several generations. Experience has shown that there must be a high degree of intelligence for many generations on both the sire’s and the dam’s side to render their perpetuation highly probable; and it is claimed that disposition, appearance, size, and, in fact, nearly all the qualities of a dog depend much more on his ancestry than on his parents. x

It has also been shown that high mental qualities are almost invariably . inherited, although there are cases where these qualities have not been passed on, and this applies not only to sheep dogs but to all animals including human beings. Furthermore sheep dogs kept in idleness for a few generations, regardless of how good their ancestral pedigree is from a working point of view, can become incapable of transmitting the working qualities of their ancestors. The more highly educated dogs are the more likely they are to transmit these qualities to their offspring. Therefore it would not be of any practical use to endeavour to build up a strain bf working dogs from two individuals

that for many generations had been bred purely as pets.

Pedigree

A pedigree animal, to be of any use as a breeder, must have been inbred without any deterioration in quality. Its value lies in the ability it has of impressing on its progeny its own form and characteristics; that applies to pedigrees of all animals. An animal with a pedigree in which each generation is a distinct outcross or is unrelated has no ability, whether sire or dam, to reproduce its like simply because there is no predominance of blood of any one strain. This problem of . scientific breeding, known as inbreeding and line-breeding is generally little understood among * sheep dog breeders. Most of them in trying to breed for higher intelligence believe that a good pedigree is of no immediate value to a bad working dog and that the pedigree is of little consideration in comparison with good working blood. The most common error, however, is to. expect the union of two champion working dogs to produce champions, for in breeding “like by no means always produces like.” What is commonly overlooked is the fact that both the sire and dam also had a sire and dam, which may have possessed very different characteristics from their offspring.

Inbreeding

Breeders who have their own particular strain of working dogs practise to some extent the system known as inbreeding and line-breeding. This method is a study in itself and is undoubtedly, advantageous when managed with judgment. By mating a dog and bitch of the same family the uniform inherited qualities can be concentrated into, one line instead of two. There is no surer way of maintaining unity of character, and a study of many of the best lines of Border dogs will show how commonly inbreeding is practised. On the other hand, inbreeding has its disadvantages, for it must be remembered that faults are inherited as well as merits, and these faults have a way of asserting themselves with annoying persistency. Furthermore, inbreeding between dogs closely related may lead to physical and mental weaknesses in the progeny.

In practice it has been proved that the union of father and daughter or mother and son is preferable to a union between brother and sister, and the best mating is between cousins. To justify inbreeding, however, care must be taken to see that both parties to the union have the same desirable qualities and do not share the same faults. In short, inbreed good and you get better; inbreed bad and you get worse. This means that if there is

a latent fault in the strain it is almost certain to come out. In the same way virtues should be handed on, but it is always easier to retrogress than progress.''

Should a strain be declining in stamina or in . danger of extinction, an outcross may be introduced with advantage, .- providing the working characteristics of the new strain are identical with those of the old . strain. This is . called : outcrossing or crossbreeding, and in ' many cases it achieves its purpose. Because an animal cannot transmit a quality which it does not itself innately possess or which none of its progenitors has ever possessed, great care must be taken in outcross breeding.

Brood Bitch

A bitch usually is “in season” twice a year. The first time is generally, between 7 and 10 months of age. The “heat” generally lasts from 3 to 4 weeks. Her condition is clearly indicated by the increased attention paid to her by the other sex and the appearance of a reddish discharge from the vagina. When these signs appear she should be immediately locked up. As soon as the discharge ceases she is ready to take the dog and will remain for several days in a state when mating is possible. It is a matter for the owner to decide whether a. bitch should be “covered” at the first “heat.” If the bitch is well grown, a litter of pups will not hurt her, providing she is not required to rear too many. ' A slow-shaping young bitch will often come to her work much better after weaning a litter. '

The. young bitch may be a shy breeder , and refuse to take the dog.' If allowed her freedom for a short time and allowed to ease herself and romp about- with the dog, she will probably become friendly and let the dog serve her. It is seldom that any human aid, such as attempting to hold the bitch, can be of any assistance, and it is unsatisfactory, to shut the two yip together. One service is generally sufficient, but to ensure that conception does occur another service within two . days is advisable. Both the mated dogs should be in good, healthy condition and free from worms' and skin diseases. A pregnant bitch with worms will produce worm-infested puppies.

Be careful that the bitch is

right “off” before letting her associate with other dogs. A bitch is capable of impregnation by two or more dogs during the same “heat” and will produce pups in one litter clearly distinguishable as

the offspring of different sires.

Should an undesirable union occur and the dogs become “locked,” it is a dangerous practice to attempt to “choke” off the dog. They can be

easily parted by gently but firmly pressing the dog’s testicles. If it is necessary to prevent, a bitch from breeding after she has gone “astray, 1 ” syringe out the womb with a solution of alum and water, a solution of condy’s fluid, or quinine. This should be done promptly.

In-whelp Bitch

The in-whelp bitch requires little attention out of the ordinary. She will often be unusually thirsty and should have access to plenty : of clean water ;at all times. Her - exercise should be regular and gentle. Generally she will require no assistance at whelping and, in fact, the less she is interfered with the. better. Her kennel must be clean and free from vermin, with sufficient bedding, which the bitch will arrange to suit herself. A bitch confined to a dirty kennel will often burrow : underneath and make a bed for her puppies there. However, puppies lying on an earthen floor soon foul the nest, and if the spot is very dry. fleas will ■be very troublesome. The kennel for the bitch should be removed from other dogs, and should be thoroughly fumigated before the pups are born. ~ To do this, place about 11b. of sulphur in a strong tin dish and pour a few drops of methylated spirits on top of the sulphur to make it burn easily. Place the tin in. the kennel, and, after having covered the kennel up well with sacking or horse covers to keep in the fumes, apply a light to the spirits and keep the kennel covered up for some hours. The kennel may then be washed thoroughly with a strong solution of kerosene and water, or, if preferred, disinfectant. When it is dry it should be whitewashed.

New-born Puppies

It sometimes happens that one or two of the puppies in a litter are born weaklings. It is usually-, better to destroy them, but if they are particularly valued, . a ’ little attention will sometimes get them sucking and they may improve. When a weakly pup starts sucking z it is usually strengthened . and heartened.... z...

If she is a first-litter bitch, the nipples of the mother may be retracted and so offer no hold to the weak little tongues, which must be wrapped round the nipple firmly from below. One of the stronger pups put on to the retracted nipples may draw them out.

Some of the puppies may be born with dew claws, which are supplementary toes on the inside of the hind legs, slightly above the feet. They should be removed while the pups are on the mother, and she will keep the wounds clean. Dew claws can be easily removed with a pair of sharp scissors. Perfectly-healthy pups sometimes cause the novice some anxiety by their continual twitching. This is

a natural action and is, in fact, the way the little creatures take exercise.

The puppies’ eyes will open when they are Bto 10 days old. Care should be taken,, especially with a first-litter bitch, that more pups than she can comfortably rear are not left on the bitch. It is better to have - four or five pups well cared for than seven or eight half starved. If the bitch pups are not wanted for breeding, they can be desexed or spayed by a veterinary surgeon, after which they will never come “in season” or breed. The kennel, bitch, and pups should be kept as free as possible from fleas, and should be dusted over frequently with insect powder or sulphur.

WEANING, FEEDING. AND REARING

The disposition of the mother largely decides how soon the pups will be taught to feed themselves. If they show no inclination to feed, wait until age and hunger prompt them. It is safe to conclude that as soon as they really need food other than mother’s milk they will try to get it. Start the pups feeding as soon as the mother’s milk begins to fail. Make the weaning gradual, however, and never give at one meal food sufficient to swell the stomach. Feed little and often and feed each pup separately if possible. If a litter is fed together, the stronger pup will gorge at the expense of the weaker. Large masses of sloppy food gobbled in hunger will distend the stomach and ferment there, resulting in diarrhoea. Blown out with liquid or semi-liquid food they cannot possibly digest, the pups soon become anaemic and susceptible to worms.

A varied diet of plain, warm milk with a little cream added (for bitch’s milk is about three times as rich as cow’s milk), scraps from the table, a chop bone now and again, bread and milk, porridge and milk, and a little meat will build healthy youngsters. Care should ' be taken that they do not get too much of any one food. If the pups become constipated, a little cod liver oil or sweet oil in the milk should be sufficient laxative. On the other hand, if they suffer diarrhoea, the pups should be given ovenbrowned flour mixed with milk to the consistency of porridge. Properly-fed pups seldom have any illness, and it is not ■ wise to give them medicine unless one is satisfied they really require it.

Use of Foster Mother

Use can be made of a foster mother if the breeder is prepared to watch the bitch carefully for a day or two. As a rule there is not much difficulty in getting the mother to adopt the new family. A wise course to follow is to remove both litters and keep them together for several hours. In the meantime the breasts of the foster

mother will fill up and cause her some discomfort, and as a result she will take the strangers more readily. Another good plan is to smear the pups to be adopted with some of the foster mother’s milk. If all goes well the first day, no anxiety need be felt afterward.

Rearing by Hand Rearing pups by hand is a very difficult job, but it can be done if one is prepared to v give the pups close attention. The advice of a .veterinarian should be sought, as it is necessary while the pups are very young to feed them a few drops of specially-

prepared milk every hour or so. Pups reared by hand become used

to man-handling,, but pups reared on the mother require < man-handling as soon as they are weaned. In fact, as soon as the mother begins to tire of them they will transfer their affection to man if properly fondled and fed. To prevent their growing up shy they should be taken about as much as possible and accustomed to unfamiliar objects. It is far better to prevent shyness than to have to overcome it afterward. It is well known that, the intelligence of a pup brought up in the house is generally far superior to that of one reared outside. However, as most housewives have a strong prejudice against allowing dogs in the > house, the practice of rearing pups indoors is not common in New Zealand. ’

SELECTION ■

There is a well-known saying that “a good horse cannot be a bad colour,” and this is equally true of sheep dogs. Nevertheless, most people like a dog

of pleasing colour and type. Appearance, colour, and size are largely a matter of individual taste. The size of a puppy at birth is no criterion of its subsequent size. A weakly pup may reasonably be expected to be small when grown up; on the other hand, the smallest pup in a litter may

make the most compact dog. For work, however, it is absolutely necessary that the puppy should come from ancestors noted for their working qualities, regardless of colour, shape, and size. To stand continuous work the dog must have a good set of legs ■ and feet. The feet should be

small, with the toes close together. The toe-nails should touch the

ground, giving the dog the appearance of standing on his toes, A splay-footed dog (one with big feet and toes well spread apart) appears to carry his weight on the back pads or heels of the feet. A foot of this type is generally . weak, and on danthonia country the dog will suffer considerably , with grass between the toes, . , Importance of Eyes The eyes, which should be set well apart, are of considerable importance to some men, and in selecting a dog O ne with a light eye is often condemned. Dark eyes are indeed more attractive than light, but oculists consider that the light eye is stronger and more permanently useful.

In the choice of coat the popular

fancy seems to be the smooth-coated dog. In rough country where bidibidi abounds the smooth-coated dog is less likely to be bothered than the

beardy and rough-coated dog; which often has to be shorn in the summer months.

Selection also depends largely on the class of country and work for which the dog is to be used. For straight-out “heading” work a “strongeyed” pup from a good strain of fast, silent, and free-running “heading” dogs should be selected. For “allround” and “huntaway” work a puppy from a good strain bred for this work will prove the most suitable.

A shepherd requiring a team of dogs should have at least one of each class,, and if a team of four dogs is required, he should have one “header” that will lead, ’ one “all-round” dog, and two “huntaway.” The shepherd himself will know the class of country he is working on, and will select a pup to suit.

With large farms and stations . fast being subdivided and the number of small farmers increasing each year, there is no longer the dog work there used to be and the demand today seems to. be for a two-dog team or a single dog. For this purpose one “header” and one “huntaway” or an “all-round” dog are required, and for the man who has work for. only one dog a good “all-round” dog would be the most' suitable. If there is sufficient work for two dogs, a good “header” and a good “huntaway” are preferable to one “all-round” dog.

TRAINING

In the writer’s booklet, “Lessons on Training,” printed in 1943, the chairman of the North Island Sheep Dog Trial Association; who wrote the introduction, stated that the three outstanding features of training were “the disciplining of oneself, the careful handling of sheep, and the thorough training of the dog.”

Disciplining Oneself

If the qualities inherent in the sheep dog are to be developed to the full, a thorough control of one’s temper, great patience and perseverance, and a firm determination to succeed are required at all times. The man who takes pains and gains the affection of his dog will patiently persevere step by step in controlling the dog’s will. Kindness is absolutely necessary, and severity, even if displayed only once, throws the pupil back, and if repeated, spoils him altogether. Some dogs may be made to do moderate work by fear, but such dogs simply work like slaves and can never be depended on. A passionate man who gives his dog a hit in anger or throws a stick at him would admit he was wrong if he were to take himself to task for it ten minutes later.

. A sheep dog cannot be trained in a few days, and an owner with

insufficient time to train a dog thoroughly should not attempt the job. Furthermore, dogs that are not tended and fed properly are not likely to be a credit to an owner in appearance or performance.

Careful Handling of Sheep

Most farmers realise the importance of handling sheep carefully. To do this • a knowledge, of the nature of sheep and, a realisation of the harm that can be done by a badly-trained dog are required. Freezing works buyers say that thousands of pounds are being lost to farmers annually through careless handling of fat stock and by rough dog work. It is the height of folly to dog the “tail” end of a mob of sheep with about six dogs, some of whom are confirmed biters. No amount of dogging or biting will shift the “tail” if the “head” is not drawing away. The same applies to work in the yards and loading into trucks and motor lorries. There is no need for six or more dogs to make the deafening noise so frequently heard in some sheepyards. By easing the “head” instead of forcing the “tail” an experienced man with a piece of sacking and a good “backing” dog can get better results in half the time. Sheep are nervous animals and are easily worked by well-trained dogs, but when handled by a rash and badly-trained dog they can be very stubborn.

A good knowledge of sheep is especially required in working ewes and lambs. The inexperienced shepherd will soon find himself in difficulties with them, and when he gets them together he will have them so mis-mothered that it will be hard work shifting them, with the risk always of a bad “break.”

Sheep that “knock-up” through weakness or too fast a pace cannot be hurried, but should be left to “draw” along at their own pace. Harsh dogging will never shift them, and biting can never accomplish what gentle persuasion has failed to do. In the early morning sheep can be ’ shifted three times as fast as they will travel in the heat of the day, and a good drover will make the most of the cool period and rest his sheep during the heat.

Thorough Training of Dog

A well-bred pup, especially one of a “heading” strain, has natural instincts that urge him to chase sheep about, and sometimes with scarcely any education at all he gets a rough idea of “heading” and “pulling” (bringing sheep to his master). More often he prefers to “ring” them (run round and round them), and from that he advances a stage further and starts

“worrying.” It is not an uncommon sight to see. a man trying to work sheep with a dog to which he has given no training at all. To any observer who comments on the dog’s behaviour he will invariably remark: “The dog is no good.” This, of course, is quite correct, but it'is safe to say that as a shepherd the man is no good either, for a good shepherd always has good dogs. In many cases the fault lies in the man, not in the dog. On the other hand an experienced shepherd and trainer with' first-class, obedient dogs can handle sheep without exhausting himself, his dogs, or his sheep.

The cleverly-trained dog is ! no freak of nature. As an intelligent puppy he was trained to become obedient to his master’s commands, and by guidance developed that understanding of the handling of sheep that makes his work pleasing. There is a feeling of pride, satisfaction, and confidence'in working a dog that • can be completely controlled under any conditions. Some may term such a dog a mechanical worker, but. when working under the control of a trainer who has expert knowledge of sheep he is a perfect example of sound sheep dog training.

Fundamentals of Training

Training should proceed only as fast as the pupil’s progress will allow. Some pups are quicker to learn than others, as much depends on disposition and intelligence. The most interesting point in the training of dogs is that no two are alike. Each requires individual study, and subsequent handling may have to be varied for each case. The secret of good training is the ability of the trainer to adapt his handling methods to the individual needs of each animal.

Lessons should be carried out in private, for the presence of other animals will be sure to distract the dog’s attention and upset him. Never give an order Without being in a position to enforce obedience. Emphasise orders by motions of the hand or stick, and when each turn is accomplished show approval by patting the dog. Orders and lessons should be as short and as few as necessary.

Faults must be corrected early

and not allowed to develop into habits. Rashness and impetuos-

ity have to be checked, but not harshly, for they are merely an excess of zeal. Do not shout com-

mands, but regulate the volume of voice or whistle to suit the distance the dog is away. It must be remembered that nothing but fre-

quent tuition under the same master for two years is likely to produce a dog that can be handled with some degree of certainty, as the dog’s brain, like that of human beings, is slow in reaching maturity.

Although each class of sheep dog requires its own specialised training in the advanced stage, the elementary lessons before work with, sheep is commenced are the same for all classes.

Elementary Stages of Training

Training should commence when the dog is very young. Most puppies can be thoroughly trained and always controlled by kindness, as no other animal is endowed with a nature so affectionate", . honest, and loyal. With these qualities, the desire to please can never be found wanting. Pups acquire powers of discernment at an early age, and, if with their masters, a good deal, are soon able to detect changes of humour by the voice. They are then as easily influenced as a child, and when they do wrong a mild scolding or tap with the hand will usually be sufficient chastisement. The best way to gain a dog’s confidence is by feeding him attentively, and it is an excellent plan to assist the elementary lessons with' meals which come after by way of reward.

The first step is to teach the pup to answer to his name or whistle call. It is astonishing how, soon he gets to know ,it if he is called at meal times. Some men prefer a whistle command and others use a word command, but whichever way commands are given the method adopted at the outset of training, should be used always.

When the trainer is satisfied that the pup understands that the call command means food, the distance the pup is called to the feed dish can be increased gradually, until finally the pup will answer to the call without the use of the dish at all. It is always well to reward a young pup with a little tit-bit when he obeys commands.

Next, the pup has to be accustomed to wearing a collar and being secured to some object with a light cord or chain. Do not allow him to fight against this; if -he does, it will only make him frightened. . Never keep a young dog tied up on the chain for long periods, as a growing pup requires plenty of exercise free from restraint. When he understands that he cannot get away from the ' chain or cord he can be taught to be led about and to “keep in behind.” If the pup is inclined ,to be shy, be careful not to, overdo this lesson.

The education of the pup proceeds on similar lines to that of a child. Simple but by no means unimportant lessons, given close at hand, are taught first. Gradually the lessons become harder until the pup’s natural instincts are fully developed by the trainer and in time a trained dog is produced.

"Stop" Command

Having been taught to answer, to his name, accustomed to his collar and chain, and taught .to be led, he is now ready to commence lessons a little

more advanced. His next lesson is to learn to “stop,” that is, to “stand,” “sit down,” or “clap” (go right down on his belly). Of all the commands that a sheep dog has to learn and obey instantly this is the most important. There are different attitudes a dog may adopt when being taught to obey this command. The calm-tempered, unexcitable pup may be allowed to remain 1 “standing,” but the rash, excitable dog is better forced to “sit” or “clap.” It is preferable to make a young dog “clap” during the early stages of training. Later, if the trainer prefers, the pup can be allowed to “stand.” , . The pup is taught to “clap” by means of a light but strong cord with a small snap-hook at one end, which is attached to his collar. The trainer stands firmly on the cord close up to the dog to prevent his moving and gently presses him down with the hand, giving the command “Down, Jock” or a whistle command if preferred. . The command need not be given loudly; dogs are keen of hearing and little more than a whisper is necessary close at hand. This lesson should be continued until the pup understands what .is required of him: When he obeys . without a hand puton him, move a step or two away and repeat the procedure, extending the distance each day. At the first sign of disobedience step up on the cord, and with a stern rebuke force him down. A reward for prompt obedience is helpful. A lesson like this cannot be taught in a day; it may take a week

or a month, but however long, do not pass on to the next lesson until the “clap” is thoroughly mastered by the pupil. The pup should now be taught to remain “down” while the trainer moves some distance away. Drive a walking stick into the ground and tie the cord to it. Command the dog to “go down” and move about him or carry on with another job, watching all the time for any movement. If he moves, the pup must be put back on the same spot as he moved from, and given a little slap and the command “Down, Jock.” As the pupil becomes proficient in this the trainer can go out of sight for a few minutes, but these lessons should not be overdone and the pup expected to remain “down” too long. In handling .sheep all work depends on the trainer’s ability to “stop” a dog immediately, so the importance of this lesson cannot be over-emphasised. In actual working conditions today the dog will usually go “down” “head on” to his sheep when the “stop” command is given. This means that a “huntaway,” for example, will often “stop,” “tail on,” or “side on” to his master and the “heading” dog, too, may at times go “down” “side on.” While working sheep a dog should not take his eyes off them when commanded to “stop,” but should go “down” immediately, whether on the head wing or below, at any angle necessary to remain “head on” to his sheep. This is, however, a very fine point and need not be stressed unduly.

Check Cord

Care has to be exercised in the use of the check cord. It must be looked upon, and used, as a means of preventing escape rather than* a means of dragging the. dog about. Endeavour must be made to keep the dog in a cheerful frame of mind while the check cord is on him. Tit-bits by way of reward when commands are obeyed will assist to do this. Any injudicious use of the cord will only make the pup frightened and sulky, and for that reason some pups are better taught without the aid of the cord. Its use should not be continued longer than is absolutely necessary to teach him what he is required to learn; but do not hesitate at any time to put the cord on him if he appears to require a . little stern reminder to obey. instantly. -

Stick Commands

In addition to the . word or whistle command, . signs made with the arm or a stick lead to a better understanding between man and dog. For example, if a stick is held high and moved sharply downward as though pressing something down, the dog learns to associate the movement with the “down” command. In the same way, if the stick is swung out sharply when the dog is standing close to the trainer’s side before being “cast out,” it will tend to push him out, especially if the trainer moves a pace or two in carrying out the movement. This swinging of the stick left, to right will soon -be understood by . the dog as a command to “keep out” on his cast when well away should the word or whistle commands be inaudible.

As a means of punishment the stick should be used very sparingly; thrashing is justified only after acts of wilful disobedience. Anger should never be allowed to control the stick, but if a dog has to be punished, both the trainer and the dog should know why chastisement is necessary.

Further Elementary Lessons

The pup next has to learn to move to the right and left and forward and backward on command. (Moving backward is an unnatural movement for a dog, but there are times when it is useful in handling sheep; .it is therefore a matter for the trainer to decide whether his dog needs to learn the movement.) As in the lessons he has already received, the pup .is put on the' cord to learn these movements. The cord should be short for a beginning and gradually lengthened as he becomes proficient. One end of the cord is fastened to the collar and the other is tied to the end of a walking stick. On commanding him to “sit down,” hold the stick at arm’s length, first to the right and then to the left. Moving in the direction to which the stick is pointing,

command him to “Come out here, Jock,” and he must, if he will answer to the pull of the cord, move out with you. To bring him forward pull gently forward, using a different command, such as' “Walk up, Jock.” ’ To move ' him backward ,push backward and at the same 1 time gently step on his toes to compel him to step backward, using another command, such as “Get back, Jock.” ■ ■ Whatever command is used take care to use that same command always, keeping in mind that a puppy , works by habit and answers to commands through habit. If he gets in the habit of answering commands in a slovenly manner, he will never do his turns

properly, but if the trainer insists on the lessons being done smartly from the start, the pup will get in the habit of obeying promptly and correctly. There may be days when neither the trainer nor pup seems inclined for lessons; in that case give lessons a spell for a day or two. Carry on a little each day if possible, until the puppy knows exactly what is required of him by the different commands, lengthening the cord as he becomes more proficient. Repeat the lessons all' over again without the cord tied to the stick, but with one end within easy reach, and finally without the cord at all, but do not be in too great a hurry to do this. All these lessons are taught away from sheep, and are not very exciting lessons for a young dog. It is therefore necessary to keep him as cheerful as possible by z patting and coaxing him. Do not try to cram the lessons; they should be as short and as pleasant as possible.

When the pup has been thoroughly trained in the elementary lessons he

can be given his first lessons on working sheep. , Those who breed dogs should know from the breeding for what class of work the puppy is most suitable, whether straight-out “heading,” “huntaway,” or “all-round” work. If of a “heading” strain, the pup on his first' introduction to sheep may shape well. If that is so, all that is necessary is to control him and endeavour to encourage him to do his moves correctly, but his education must proceed step by step and on no account must he be allowed to do difficult turns. Neither is it advisable when the pup begins to work sheep' ,to attempt to show him off to friends by asking hint to do something which he may not be able to complete satisfactorily. >

Although some pups will make faster progress in their training than others, generally from 6 to 8 months of age is early enough to start the pup on sheep, but it largely depends on the class of work for which he is being trained. If it is for straight-out “heading,” he must be old enough to have developed a fair turn of speed before being • asked ' to handle sheep, but a “huntaway” pup may be ready to start on sheep earlier. Strict Obedience At this stage it may be well to repeat some of the very important matters in connection with the training of the puppy. Strict obedience to commands is the chief essential to good training, and if this cannot be obtained, there is something wrong. It should not be necessary to repeat a command, and it is a bad practice to do so. Instant obedience must be insisted upon. If the pup’s early training has not . been thorough, he will never make a first-class dog.

If one of the slower sort is being handled, too much must not be ex-

pected too soon. Over-instruction or any attempt to force the pace will resuit in failure. Another very important point is to make the sound of command suit the distance; if a dog is work-. ing close at hand, commands should be given in a quiet tone, and the volume increased according to the distance out. The commands should be short and distinct. All lessons must be taken seriously both by the trainer and pupil. The pup must not be allowed to jump about and become over-excited. A young dog that has been unchained or liberated immediately before work . starts cannot be expected to take commands at once, as he will be too excited. He should be allowed a few minutes to run about and calm down before any work is asked of him. Endeavour to keep the pup in a happy frame of mind right throughout the training. Most dogs delight in work, and can show their desire to do what they are commanded if they can be taught clearly to understand their master’s desires. The objects of training are to strengthen the weaknesses, in a dog’s work and to eradicate bad

faults, which should be checked as soon as they appear.

If a really brainy puppy is being trained, it will soon be noticed how he seems to anticipate the movements of his sheep, and will most likely be in the, right position to check without commands any faulty moves on the part of the sheep. A well-bred pup in training appears instinctively to comprehend the desires and wishes of his master. If the trainer does not understand the nature of sheep, and the pupil is not particularly brilliant, the

result will be much unnecessary running both on the part of the dog and the sheep, thus defeating the objects training, which are to teach the dog to handle sheep in a careful manner an( t not unduly race them about, . , . , cl Introduction to bneep The introduction of a puppy to sheep should be done in a secure paddock where the sheep can be easily controlled. A few tractable sheep up against a fence is preferable, with an old dog at hand to take control if necessary. It should be noted that sheep that have been skilfully handled by good dogs become very tractable, while those that have been handled by bad dogs are often quite unmanageable; they do not draw together in the natural way, but divide into groups, rush in different directions, an d then “bail up” and refuse to move. For a start move the sheep about and watch the pup closely. When opportunity offers order him “down” and give him the other commands he has been taught and understands. If possible, avoid letting him rush about and become excited.

IIU >. \ „ Heading

In the pup’s first attempt at “heading” make sure that conditions . are favourable. The sheep should be placed so that they cannot bolt away. The pup should have' a fair chance of getting round on the “head” and should be able to “stop” on the “head” for a few moments before being asked to “come on.” This is an interesting stage in the training, as the trainer can see whether his work has been successful or not. The puppy may

make a natural cast round his sheep at once, in which case the trainer may well be pleased, as it is now necessary only to “stop” him or “stand” him on the “head.” On the . other hand, the puppy may not be so keen and it may be necessary to coax him to take an interest in sheep, lin which case he should be allowed to watch an old dog doing the job. If necessary, he should be allowed to run with an old dog until he becomes interested, but care should be taken in doing so not to let the pup develop the habit of running with another dog.

It is not wise to try to force the pup to approach the sheep unless the sheep appear to be free moving. He should be allowed time to start running. Young dogs have been known to refuse to leave a trainer’s heel until nearly 2 years of age, when they suddenly make a start, and later they develop into good dogs. These, of course, are the exceptions to the rule.

Very much will depend on the way the puppy makes his first shape on sheep. If he is a natural “heading” dog, he may make a nice cast round his sheep, and if a “strong-eyed” “clapping” dog he may stop and “clap” when round on the, head of his sheep without a command to do so. On the other hand he may not make a promising first shape. He may run practically straight at his sheep, and may be rash and excitable, in which case it will be necessary to use some patience, first, to get him to understand that he must make a sufficiently wide cast round his sheep, and, secondly, that he must work them steadily. To do this go round the sheep once or twice with the pup on the cord and endeavour to get him subdued, keeping him out from his sheep as he goes out with the cord attached to the end of a stick;

If a young dog is allowed to get beyond control and dashes in on his sheep and scatters them badly, he is likely to develop a vice that can never be cured. When an experienced shepherd sees a young dog drawing himself together for a furious rush at his sheep he at once commands him to “drop,” and. so ' prevents any chance of the dog developing the vice.

Never check the dog on the run-

out unless absolutely necessary; he should be encouraged to get to the

“head” quickly. If the pupil is of good parentage and not inclined to be contrary, all that will be necessary will be to see that conditions

are favourable for his first run and

that the sheep are suitable for

young dog to work.

"Lifting"

After “heading,” the pup should be commanded to remain stationary for a 'minute or two before being asked to “come on” his sheep, providing, of course, conditions are favourable. This pause is called “lifting,” and is very

important. It gives the dog a short breathing space to get himself settled, especially after a long run, and also gives him and the sheep a few moments to study each other. j' The first “head” a dog makes in training should be a very short one, but it is necessary right, from the start to make him “lift” carefully so that when he is asked to “head” at a longer distance he can be commanded to “stop” and be relied on to “lift” well.' This means that after “heading” and getting control he will approach on the correct angle and start the sheep, home very gently, or, to use , a shepherding expression, he will start the “pull.” The secret of a good “pull” is a steady “lift,” for it is in the manner of “lifting” that a dog gets on good terms with his sheep. For good “pulling” the sheep must, be carefully handled at the start. Firmness of Approach As the dog gains experience in his work he acquires firmness of approach. To make him confident, great care must be taken to, see that when he is asked to “come on” the sheep he is working they can and will move away from him as he approaches. Later he can be tried on more determined sheep, say, along a fence line, with a firm dog to “walk up” with him; then later again he can work the sheep without the second dog, but with the trainer very handy to assist, if necessary, to back the sheep and prevent immediately any attempt by the sheep to charge the dog. If a bold sheep is allowed to charge a young dog a few times, the dog develops into what is known as a “back-caster” or “tailturner;” he becomes frightened to approach sheep, and gives ground instead of standing firm. There are other methods to make a dog stand firm, but they cannot be recommended for the novice. The method described is slow and requires patience, but it is safe. In any case this is a finer point, and if the young trainer desires to perfect these points he should study an experienced shepherd handling his dogs; in this way he can soon learn the best methods to adopt. "Pulling” Some young “heading” dogs have a natural style .of “pulling” with a snake-like movement which keeps them moving straight toward their sheep. This type of dog requires little, training in this section of the work. On the other hand the pup may be over-keen, with a strong tendency to, “over- his sheep (coming too far down on the “wing” or side of the sheep, causing them to “wear” right and left) or “ring? them (run in circles round them). . These tendencies must be checked. To do this the young dog should not be allowed to “head” any distance, and if the trainer acts as “leader,” he is in ,a

position to send the dog back the moment he tends to come round on trie “wing.” This can be done along a fence line; in a lane, or out in an open paddock. A perfect “pulling” dog comes straight on behind his sheep, anticipating, movements and correcting any deviations from the straight “line of i pull” unless commanded otherwise. When the dog is 1 “casting out,” “heading,” “lifting,” and “pulling” correctly, the distance at which he works should be extended gradually. The moment any unsatisfactory work is detected bring the work closer to hand, where errors can be corrected more easily. As the dog gains experience in “heading” and “pulling” he may be sent out after sheep in more difficult country. He can be sent out after sheep that are out of sight, but for a start great care, should be taken that his sheep will be easily seen as he gets on trie high ground and that there are no difficulties in the “line of pull.” Never intentionally send a young dog out of sight where he may fail to find sheep. \ , A straight “pull” is not always desirable; in 'everyday work a dog often has to “pull” round obstacles. After “heading” he may be required to take his sheep a distance to the right or left. If he gets them in a position on a hill where they cannot move further in the direction in which they were travelling, he may have to come right under them and drive them uphill and then down another track. Before a “heading” dog can be called thoroughly trained he must be able to take sheep in any direction. In his elementary training he should have- been taught to move right, left, forward, and, if necessary, backward. When he has been taught to carry out these movements with sheep he should, on command, come “out” or “under,”

“walk up." and shift them in any direction commanded. These are some of the final lessons to be taught a “heading" dog. It •is not advisable to give a young, partlytrained dog too much of this work, as it may make him a careless “puller." The chief qualities required in a “heading” dog are free running, safe “heading,” and a “pull” that shows he has thorough control of his sheep from start to. finish. These qualities should develop if • the dog is of a good working strain and is given sound schooling. “Leading" Drovers have more work for the “leading” dog than perhaps shepherds, but in paddock work a “leader” may be very useful. Some dogs seem to have a natural aptitude for “leading” sheep, but, untrained, they are simply “run-ahead” dogs ; and are useless for holding up a mob. Almost any “heading” dog can be taught to “lead,” but he should learn all other “heading” lessons first,, and he must obey the commands to “come on,” “keep off,” and “come in behind.” Like all other first. lessons, “leading” lessons must be simple and given close at hand, where the trainer is in a position to enforce obedience. Start with a few sheep, preferably in a fenced-in lane. Get' the dog on the “head” and with the command “Keep off, Jock” or, better still, a whistle com-, mand try to force the sheep toward him, and he should give way. Any attempt on the part of the dog to leave the “lead” must be checked, and as he gets used to keeping ahead and is actually leading, the size of the mob can be increased until eventually he is quite at ease leading a mob of 1000 sheep, perhaps for hours out of sight of his master. Whistle commands are best suited to a “leader,” as he is often a long dis-

tance away from his master. A shrill whistle is much more penetrating than a word command and is easier on the man. - ,

Correcting the style of slack “leaders” is difficult. It can sometimes be remedied by constant “leading” or some yard work if the dog can be induced to “force.” He should be given frequent commands, to “come on” and not allowed to do much “leading” on free sheep. It is not usually advisable to allow a “heading” or “leading” dog in the yard, especially the “strongeyed” dog, which should be used almost exclusively for straight-out “heading” work. Other “leaders” are ' inclined to hold ■/ the mob too tight, but this is not a serious fault and can be easily remedied by letting the dog lead small mobs while the trainer gives him the “keep off” whistle, followed up, if necessary, with a stone or two; a catapult is good for this purpose.

Difficulty may be found in getting a dog that is keen on “leading”’ to leave the “head” and “come in behind” when commanded. If he is driven off the “lead” once or twice, he will soon learn to understand that the “come in” command has to be obeyed.

These difficulties will not arise, however, if the training in “leading” is not attempted until the dog has had a thorough grounding in all other lessons of a “heading” dog. . 1

"Huntaway"

The “huntaway” dog in New Zealand is generally bred from direct outcrosses. Unlike the “heading” breeds, there are very few reliable “huntaway” strains,' and the breeding is somewhat haphazard. Selecting competition winners to breed from without considering ancestral qualities is no more likely to be successful than breeding from a good station “huntaway” that has never seen a trial ground.

• Until some reliable strains are built up breeding results must be disappointing. No matter how well bred the pup is claimed to be, until he actually starts working on sheep there can be no guarantee that he will be entirely suitable for first-class “huntaway” work. Dogs do not naturally “hunt” sheep away direct, and, therefore, in training the difficulty is to keep the pup steady, especially -in “hunting” uphill.

As a rule the class of dog chosen for “huntaway” work is more heavily built than the “heading” dog. He is not so active and is slower in his movements. He should be naturally noisy and his style of work may be likened, to a boxer; he puts in “punches” on a mob of sheep, using noise for power.

The method of training is much the same as that of the “heading” pup up to the time he is ready to handle sheep, with the exception that the “huntaway” can start working behind a’mob or in the yards , just as soon as he is keen to do so, providing there is no chance of his being knocked about by the sheep. His training, like that of the “heading” dog, must proceed step by step, and the elementary training is most important.

“Huntaway” pups are usually not as sensitive or as highly strung as “heading” pups, especially ' those of the Border strain. “Huntaways” are often harder tempered and may require .sterner handling. A common fault in competitive work is the dog’s'habit of looking round in expectation of commands and watching his master instead of his sheep. This can be remedied to a great extent if the trainer is careful to give commands only when the dog is “head on” to his sheep. This finer point of training will, if perfected, make a “huntaway’s” work attractive.

A good “huntaway” follows on and is forcing his sheep every yard. He works with a steady, determined

movement which, if sufficiently powerful, invariably “rocks” his sheep slightly as he forces, especially on flat ground. He barks as he runs. A dog that moves from position to position silently and barks on command is not a true “huntaway,” but such a dog is capable of doing excellent work under favourable conditions.

"Hun+ing-away" As with the “heading” pup, the “huntaway’s” first work on sheep should be simple, and should preferably be given in a lane securely fenced, with sufficient sheep to cover the width. Start the sheep moving and try to get the pup barking; he should do this without being forced by repeated commands to “speak up.” Nevertheless, excessive noise is not only unnecessary but exhausting, and the sheep soon become accustomed to continual barking and take no heed of it. . •

If the puppy is hunting keenly he can be allowed to carry on, the trainer standing still and moving forward only when it is necessary to keep the pup on his work. A dairy farmer who has a lane running through his farm has a good opportunity. of teaching a young dog to hunt by allowing him' to hunt the cows to and from the milking . shed. He will soon learn to “follow on” and hunt steadily. When the dog is hunting satisfactorily along the lane he can be asked to hunt sheep along a fence line slightly uphill and not too steep. As he becomes more proficient a steeper grade can be selected, and later again he can be asked to hunt out in the open, but he should not be allowed to hunt any great distance.

"Slewing"

" Before the young dog is allowed to hunt far he should be taught to “slew” (to turn sheep right or left, perhaps at right angles to the line he is hunting) . Select a fence line running across

the face of a hill and get the dog to hunt up to the fence, then bring him out on the wing of the sheep and - order him “on.” He should then hunt them along the fence line. When he has gone some distance bring him down below the sheep and order him out. on the other wing to hunt them back the opposite, way. After this has been ‘ done . satisfactorily he ; can be given “slewing” exercises out in the open. / When the dog is on the wing . be careful to see that he approaches his sheep direct with plenty of force and does not come back below the sheep before he . has “slewed” them. This approach, if properly executed, is in marked contrast to the natural swinging style of the untrained dog. When the dog can “come out” or “slew” on command and approaches steadily and determinedly with a powerful, “punching” bark he needs practice only in long-distance hunting , to become a good “huntaway.” A young “huntaway” generally has too much pace and is too eager, and that is probably why this type of dog is frequently not seen at his best until approaching old age. Many successful trial “huntaways”'are broken in to do other work first and are later taught to hunt as age begins to slow them up. It is debatable whether a “huntaway” should be taught to “head,” but much depends on the class of country and ; the work the dog is likely to be called on to do. "All-round" Worker The “all-round” worker is probably the most useful of all sheep dogs, especially on a small farm where there is a limited amount of work and where only one dog is required. Like the “huntaway” he is bred haphazardly.

Very often he may be bred from a straight-out “heading” dog and a “huntaway.” Any intelligent pup that shows “heading” tendencies when he first starts to work sheep can be trained for all-round work if he has a good bark. However, as he is expected to assimilate a good deal of “heading,” “leading,” and “huntaway” knowledge, he must be gifted with a particularly receptive brain and an intelligence above the ordinary. Owing to his z . having to learn such a variety of work the all-round dog as a rule does not become very expert at any one particular branch and is often called a jack-of-all-trades and master of none; nevertheless, he is often called upon to do more work than any other dog, whether as one of a team or alone. His training proceeds on the same lines as the “header,” “leader,” and “huntaway,” but it is advisable to make a good “header” of him first and the other work can be taught afterward. Endeavour to keep his work balanced and find a good variety of work for him. Thorough control is most essential in handling this class of worker, especially if he has a leaning more to “heading” than “huntaway” or vice versa. x "Backing" and Yard Dog A naturally-noisy dog like a “huntaway” or all-round dog can be taught to “back” sheep. Some require little urging; others have to be coaxed. A young dog must be protected from being charged by sheep or sheep being forced over the top of him. Get the crush pen tightly packed with sheep and gently lift the dog on to. their backs, being careful that there is' no risk of his falling through to the 'ground. Endeavour to get him

feeling at ease and induce him to move about on the sheep’s backs “speaking up.” As he gains confidence he can be ordered to move up to the mouth of the race, where the sheep will not be so tightly packed, and he will be able to get down on to the ground. He should then be encouraged to move back through the sheep, which will move past him. In this way the mob will be tightened' up, or 'if the race gate is open, the sheep will start drawing through. In the early stages of these lessons the dog, if .he finds himself slipping off the sheep’s backs, has a tendency to leap out of the pen; This . can be prevented in either of two ways; first, by attaching a cord to him, and, secondly, by having two assistants, one on either side of the pen, to keep the dog in the pen and make him understand that he is required to get down among the sheep and move back. When dogs become used to. this work they delight in it and are extremely useful not only in the yards, but in railway trucks and motor lorries. Care has to be taken when the young dog is moving back through the sheep that they do not tread on his toes. Later as he gets used to the job he will look after his toes himself. "Cutting Out" or "Shedding" Fat lamb farmers with small farms, especially those in the Waikato, have adopted the “cutting out” or “shedding” method in handling their ewes and lambs. Newly-lambed ewes are left undisturbed for about a week after lambing and are then carefully “cut out” of the mob and quietly put in another paddock with their lambs.' In some cases these “cuts” are docked as they. are brought out, the crook of a walking stick being useful for catching the lambs. In this way no docking yard is . required, there is no mis-mothering, and the docking ground is clean. A mob of nearly 1200 has been lambed down and docked in this manner. Another important operation common on these farms is “cutting out” the ewes whose lambs have gone away fat and the empty ewes from those ewes that are still suckling their lambs. The dog best suited for this work is the silent “heading” dog with some “eye'” and concentration power, but this lesson, like “leading,” should not be taught until the dog has completed the greater part of his ordinary training. Dogs can be become fond of “shedding,” and if given too much, are apt to lose the desire to “gather;” z they will tend to concentrate on a few sheep and ignore the others. A walking stick or longer stick is 'of considerable help to the trainer in teaching a dog to “shed.” The dog should be made to bring six or eight sheep as close as possible to the

trainer, who has to separate them into two lots, using the stick. Command

the dog to “come in” between -the separated lots, and make him “stand” or “clap.” With the trainer’s assistance the “cuts” are moved further apart and the job is complete. The “cuts” the, dog is concentrating on can be taken in hand and driven as desired. To enable the dog to do the job properly he, must be given every assistance possible in his training for this work. Later, when he understands what he is required ■to do, he will come in closer to his sheep, ready to spring into the slightest gap as directed. Care must be exercised to see that the “cuts” consist of dry sheep for a start, and a dog new to the work should not be asked to handle ewes and lambs. Cattle Dog / Although most of the cattle in New Zealand are worked by dogs trained for sheep work, a special type of dog to work only cattle may be desired. In handling cattle a dog does, not have to be as exact and as gentle as in working sheep. A good “heeler” has to “heel” low down without any danger of getting hurt, and he must be able to swing round to the head of a beast and take it by the nose. Some stations used to keep a stockman working entirely among cattle, and his dogs were specially selected. They were generally, a coarse kind of sheep dog with a trace of mastiff or bulldog blood. Some Border dogs have been found good as cattle dogs. In Australia there is a dog called “The Blue Merle Cattle Heeler,” which is well known as a severe “heeler.”

VICES Vices should be corrected im-

mediately they show themselves

in a young dog, and the training should not proceed until these faults are corrected. When they have been allowed to develop, vices such as biting, “ringing,” rash and close “heading,” and tail turning cannot be satisfactorily corrected. Biting Dog Apart from other objections, the risk of one quarrelsome dog injuring another dog cannot be taken when there is much work to be done. Ferocity and good sense seldom go together. The fierce pup that “nips in” at the first opportunity and in bad cases bites hard , and hangs on to his sheep is better worked on cattle. If he gets a few kicks he may be cured, but a bad sheep-biter is not worth . training. Sometimes he can be checked, but he is never trustworthy. Probably the best remedy is to get the dog .working in the yard or behind a mob of sheep and instead of a walking stick or switch get a piece of fencing wire; at the exact moment the dog grips the sheep bring the wire down sharply across his nose. This happens so quickly that the dog does not know where the blow came from and usually he does not attempt to bite again for some time. It is no use thrashing a dog for this vice, and deterrents such as a spur fastened in the mouth of the dog or a wire through his nose to catch in the sheep’s wool are not cures; the moment they are removed the' dog bites as badly as before. Bolting

If a young dog suddenly gets beyond control and bolts o off after sheep, little can be done until he returns. The

trouble may be caused through over-

keenness, excitement, or perhaps fear, but it clearly indicates a lack of thorough elementary training. Had the dog been thoroughly grounded in the “stop” command, the moment any symptoms of excitement such as the tendency to bolt showed themselves he could have been ordered “down” or put on the cord until the excitement had subsided. When the pup acts' in this way do not rebuke him. but put him at ease; watch carefully for -a repetition of the fault. Shouting angrily at a dog and menacing him with a stick are not likely to get him to “come in.” A common mistake of trainers is to coax a dog within reach by saying in a mild voice, “Come in, Jock, good dog,” and then to hit him. This is hardly likely to encourage him to obey the “come in” command. Barking at Night Unhappiness and discomfort are the usual causes of a dog barking and howling at night. Other causes are stock grazing near the kennel, the presence of a bitch “in season,” and other dogs prowling about. A young dog accustomed to company is likely to howl ; when by himself at night, but the most frequent night howler is the chained-up, hungry dog with a cold and uncomfortable kennel. It is important, therefore, to see that a dog’s kennel is made comfortable and that he gets regular feeding and exercise. Whip Shyness If the trainer is patient, he can cure

a dog’s whip shyness. For a start see that the whip is cracked some distance away from the dog, and then

gradually bring it closer, suiting the

distance to the effect it has on him. This . lesson is best given at feeding time while the dog is busy at his meal. He may shrink or cringe badly, but with a little judicious management he will probably take little notice of it after a few lessons. Be careful not to frighten the dog more than can be helped. "Sundowner" . . ' There is no reason for a dog that is healthy and not too fat or. in soft condition .to be inactive. If he is, it is simply laziness and nothing can be done about it. Such a dog will not be tolerated for long by a man who likes plenty of . action'. SALIENT POINTS OF TRAINING When a dog has completed his training the instruction that follows is comparatively simple and is suggested by the shepherd’s daily duties. The salient points to remember are: — . 1. When working two or more dogs see that distinctive commands are given to each dog; 2. Do not keep more dogs than neces- ■ sary;

3. Do not try to handle two or more young dogs at once, and , 4. When giving commands bear in mind that immediately the voice or whistle alters, it reveals lack of self-control and thus upsets the dog. BUYING A BROKEN-IN DOG Some men prefer to purchase a dog already broken in, and they estimate its value by its suitability for the work required of it. Before purchasing such a dog it is always advisable to see it at work, as the , seller’s description of the dog’s ability may not be quite accurate. It is unlikely that a prospective buyer would be permitted to work .the dog before buying, as a dog in strange hands is not likely to work the same as he does for his owner or trainer. It may take months before a dog becomes thoroughly accustomed to the tone of his new master’s voice or whistle commands. A buyer should remember . that a really good dog is worth a high price. If he expects to buy a broken-in dog cheaply he is going to be disappointed, or is easily pleased. Well-trained dogs are

D.D.T. DUSTING MACHINE

A D.D.T. dusting machine in operation, on pastures at Matawhero, near Gisborne, where D.D.T. is being used to control the red-legged earth mite. The machine carries at the rear 12 fishtail spreaders spaced along two 9ft. booms each of which can be raised or lowered separately. By raising either of the booms to an upright position it is possible to get in close to hedges and fences, so ensuring complete coverage with the dust. The illustration above shows clearly the large area which can be covered at one sweep and the heavy cloud of dust which is discharged through the twelve fishtail spreaders. On the left of the picture can be seen the coating on an area which has been treated.

seldom on the market at any price, but young dogs spoilt in training and having bad faults are always procurable for a few pounds. After obtaining a broken-in dog, give him time to become accustomed to his new surroundings before attempting to work him. ■ When he has settled down and appears ready for work start him off in the same way as a young half-trained, dog. He should be given work close at hand until the trainer is satisfied that the dog understands the commands. SHEEP DOG TRIALS Sheep dog trials are tests of efficiency. The trial grounds are not training tracks, but testing ground.and therefore are not for the inexperienced man with a half-trained or badly-trained dog. Trials are not organised merely to provide sport. Their .object is the better management of stock, and for this reason the numerous trial courses throughout New Zealand are arranged so that the tests as far as possible include all sections of everyday work. Although the scope of the average competitive trial is not sufficient for the thorough testing of the dogs, the most is made of the limited space, time, and number of sheep,, and many of the best qualities of the working dog are brought into prominence. The result may be affected by luck sometimes, but usually ,it depends on the dog being able to keep on good terms with his sheep. A good dog nearly always beats an inferior dog, but an apparently-inf dog / may have natural instincts superior to a winner and be unsuccessful simply because he has been badly trained and handled. In these days of high-class performances a dog must be naturally skilful and cleverly trained to be a winner. This does not mean specialised training, but thorough training in everyday work throughout the year. Trial Clubs Before the war there were about 130 sheep dog trial clubs in New Zealand. About 80 of these were in the North Island and 50 in the South Island. Today there are nearly 100 trial clubs in the North Island, and, in addition, the North Island Dog Trial Association issues permits for many show-ring and sports clubs events. Each year a North Island, a South Island, and a New Zealand championship are held. These field trials attract large entries, and usually 80 or more entries for each event are received, and at championship trials 120 to 130 entries in each of the “heading” events are becoming common. The prize money is substantial, from £5.0 to £6O or more being, paid to first prize winners. Illustrations in this article are from photographs by L. Baker, Rissington, Hawke’s Bay.