VANITAS VANITATUM

Ladies' Mirror, Volume 3, Issue 4, 1 October 1924, Page 19

VANITAS VANITATUM

Chere Amie, — “In the spring a woman’s fancy lightly turns to thoughts ofclothes”and you are no exception to the rule, I remember. Curious, isn’t it, cherie, with what eagerness Ave hail our spring and summer seasons, and how glad avc are to Avear bright, soft dresses again; curious, I mean, because Avhen autumn arrives we are just as eager to try the neAV styles then! Paris has been trying to make a bright, brave shoAv, but the Aveather has been so very unkind in squelching our spring enthusiasm under doAvnpours of rain and riotous Avinds, that the gay city belies its name for the time being. However, things will clear up before long, and the streets will be fairly dazzling! I Avrote you last month of the spring styles, and don’t you think they sound attractive? As I told you, everything is shorter, and skirts are wider, Avith frills and flounces round the end of the dress. Fine pleats are a feature of every garment, even lingerie. Lingerie of Charm Talking of lingerie, I saw the most fascinating collection in the trousseau of the Countess de Belfort. Everything was of fine linen lawn, finely hand embroidered in intricate and beautiful designs, or of soft rose or apricot crepe de chine, with applique designs in pale green or blue, and quantities of fine French tucks.

IN SPRING YOUNG FASHION’S FANCY LIGHTLY TURNS TO THOUGHTS OF LINGERIE

(From our Special Correspondent)

Nighties and chemises pleated from yoke to hem, drawers with lines of pleats at the side. Most were trimmed with fine Valenciennes or filmy Bruges lace, and were dainty beyond words. Beautiful lingerie is such an essential portion of one’s wardrobe, isn’t it? And the Parisienne lays great stress on it. It is always hand-made and hand-embroid-ered. Wearing machine-made lingerie is like being married at a registry office—-

only second best! Lots of lingerie nowadays is not very heavily embroidered. Monograms -worked in a square or circle of embroidered leaves are very much in vogue, and hemstitching and trimmings of fine lace and tucks replace the scrolls and sprays and convolutions that were considered necessary to dainty underwear. Silks of rose or apricot or cream are generally worked in a delicate contrasting shade, or with an applique design of leaves. Evening “undies” are sometimes of very fine pleated lace over a delicate shade of crepe de chine. The Vogue of the “ Tailleur ” Just at present everyone is "wearing the most bewitching tailleurs. Of course, they all have the long, straight line, which is the expression of the slogan of Fashion, “Look slender.” The great tailoring ; houses are showing much ingenuity in the introduction of pleats and flares to give width to the skirt without appearing to do so. One robe-tailleur that I saw had a long tunic with panels of very fine pleating inserted just below the shoulders, front and back, and carried down to the end of the tunic, giving line and width. Another had the panel inserted back and front just below the waistline, and carried right round the skirt, making a sort of flat pleated frill about twelve inches deep.

Hats and Other Things It seems that the small hat still holds its own, although a while ago it was predicted that large hats would be more fashionable. We shall have them later on in the year, of erin straws largely, and trimmed with ribbons or ostrich feathers. Flowers and fruit do not seem to be so favoured this year, but the ostrich will once more demonstrate his indispensability to the world of Fashion. Not only are his feathers necessary to the chic hat, but he adorns many of the garments in the wardrobe of the Parisienne. Gowns, evening wraps, manteaux, bags, scarves, even dancing sandal-slip-pers, are all adorned with bands or ornaments of coloured feathers. One lovely frock of white marocain, draped on one side, had a twelve-inch band of ostrich in black, white and grey round the hem. A manteau I saw at Auteuil, at the Prix des Drags, had deep collar, cuffs and band of grey ostrich. The glycerinised variety is not much in demand for hat trimming. They are clipped, and look less like the plumes of presentation headdresses. Ribbons, contrived into every form of bow or ornament, garnish most hats. Frequently the ribbon is of the same shade as the hat. Colour relief is not required, as it generally finds its expression in the costume. With tailleurs, the gilet contrasts with the coat; with afternoon models there is almost always colour contrast in embroidery, or the lining of the cape or the “revers” of panels or draperies. —And for “ Le Sport ” The big houses here are showing the most fascinating sports costumes that make one just long to don one and hie oneself to tennis or golf or boating. There are delightful cream serge frocks, which, together with a large crin hat trimmed with ribbon, and a shady roselined sunshade, would be absolutely irresistible in a punt. There are pleated skirts with sleeveless jackets confined by narrow suede belts in bright colours that are ideal for the links. And the crepe and linen one-piece frocks make one yearn to play tennis. But, of course, cherie, you and I are agreed that all costumes should be complete down to the last detail. Therefore, you must not neglect to wear with your sports suit shoes of white buck-skin with bands of lizard, or black or brown. Nor must you forget the bright scarf which serves the double purpose of completing your colour scheme and protecting your neck from sunburn. Well, ma chere, here’s my budget of news for this month. I can’t give you much of a forecast of summer fashions, as such things are barely hinted at yet, and remain locked up in the brains of a few really great men and women. But I shan’t forget to let you have the first news as soon as I get it. Au revoir till next month, cherie. Yours fashionably, Femina.