A Kaikoura Ranges National Park

Forest and Bird, Issue 305, 1 August 2002, Page 32

A Kaikoura Ranges

National Park

MIKE HARDING

outlines the need to better protect

the mountains and drylands of the Kaikoura ranges.

he rugged mountain ranges of South Marlborough have long been recognised as special. Greater protection for the Seaward Kaikoura Range was suggested by Forest and Bird in the 1980s. Now Forest and Bird is proposing that areas of conservation land on both the Seaward and Inland Kaikoura ranges be protected in a national park. The Kaikoura ranges dominate the northeast South Island. They are visible from most parts of Marlborough and, in clear weather, also from North Canterbury and the lower North Island. The snowcapped peaks of both ranges greet travellers

crossing Cook Strait, introducing visitors to the open mountain landscapes of the eastern South Island high country. Closer up, most travellers experience the Kaikoura ranges from the main highway along the Kaikoura coast. Taking the route is a memorable experience, as the road is sandwiched between the deep sea of the Kaikoura Trench and the steep, forested slopes of the Seaward Kaikoura Range. From this rugged coast there are tantalising views into the high shattered-rock mountains, providing glimpses of the true character of the Kaikoura ranges. Away from the rich forests on the coastal

flank of the Seaward Kaikoura Range, the inland slopes of the ranges are sparsely vegetated: rock and scree dominate the alpine summits, and open tussock grassland or shrubland covers the lower slopes. This sparse vegetation owes as much to natural processes, such as infrequent wildfires, as to human interference. This wild area remains one of the main centres of species diversity in New Zealand. The Kaikoura ranges form the highest mountain ranges in the country outside the Southern Alps. Tapuae-O-Uenuku soars to 2885 metres on the Inland Kaikoura Range, while Manakau on the Seaward Kaikoura Range rises to 2608 metres. The two mountain ranges are separated by the drylands of the Clarence Valley, while the whole mountainous region is bordered to the west by the Awatere Valley and in the east by the Kaikoura coast. The height and steepness of the mountains, along with the relatively dry inland climate, combine to give the Kaikoura Ranges their distinct character. The mountain forms are the result of the fast rate of mountain-building uplift and the lack of glaciation. Predominantly sandstone and mudstone (greywacke and argillite), the weak rock is easily broken. The mountains rise in steep bluffs above narrow precipitous gorges, and extensive rockland

and scree. Volcanic dykes are prominent on the crests of the ranges, and younger sedimentary rocks are present in the Clarence Valley and on the Kaikoura coast. The most impressive of these younger deposits are the sharp ridges and scarps of the Chalk Range, and the polished limestone canyons near Isolated Hill. A number of distinctive features in the area are listed as geo-preservation sites: 11 are nationally important. Specialised plants grow on these rock bluffs, gorge-sides and screes. Most striking are the Marlborough rock daisy with its

thick hairy leaves and large white flowers, and the various fine-leaved species of sun hebe. A large pink-flowered species of native tree broom grows along rocky gorges, and another tree broom with weeping foliage grows on rocky slopes. Sparsely vegetated alpine ridges support mat daisies and impressive ‘vegetable-sheep’ cushion plants. A large proportion of these rock and scree plants are confined to South Marlborough. Infrequent natural fires, and then more

extensive fires associated with human settlement, have limited the extent of forest on inland parts of the Kaikoura ranges. Mountain totara forest is scattered throughout the Clarence Valley, and forms extensive stands on the upper eastern slopes of the Seaward Kaikoura Range. Forests on wetter coastal slopes include mixed podocarp forest, and a number of hardwood species at their southern limits, such as tawa and black maire. Beech forest is largely absent from the Kaikoura ranges. Biological diversity is high, however. Over 450 native plant species have been recorded from the Inland Kaikoura Range. More than 550 native species are present in the Isolated Hill/Chalk Range area, representing almost one quarter of native plant species in the country. Species diversity is not limited to plants. Twelve lizard species (eight geckos and four skinks) are found in South Marlborough, making it one of the most diverse areas for lizards in the country. The Kaikoura gecko has been recorded only from the Kaikoura ranges, and the unusual black-eyed gecko was first discovered on the Seaward Kaikoura Range (see box page 33). The long-toed skink and the scree skink, both threatened species, reach the northern limit of their distributions in the Kaikoura ranges. Three species of giant weta and an undescribed species of ground weta live in the Kaikoura ranges: the Kaikoura giant weta is restricted to South Marlborough; the bluff weta is found only in South Marlborough and at Mt Somers in MidCanterbury; and the scree weta reaches its northeastern limit in the area. The open rocky habitats of the Kaikoura ranges are also important for birds. The area is a stronghold for the threatened native falcon/karearea and supports the easternmost population of New Zealand’s mountain parrot, the kea. Healthy populations of forest birds are present at lower altitudes, including large numbers of New Zealand robin and bellbird. Most interesting however, is the presence of the only known nesting colonies of Hutton’s shearwater high on the Seaward Kaikoura Range (see box on left). Exploration and settlement of the Kaikoura ranges has been constrained by the rugged terrain and difficult access. The presence of old cooking ovens in the midClarence Valley indicates that inland areas were traversed by Maori. However, the main early settlements are most likely to have been on the coast, especially around

Kaikoura Peninsula. Early European settlement was also concentrated on the coast. The Awatere and Clarence valleys were not settled until land was taken up for sheep grazing in the late 1850s, and have since remained sparsely populated. Most upper slopes of the ranges have been retired from sheep grazing. Chamois, red deer, goats and feral pigs are present, though major impacts are generally confined to vulnerable lowland plant communities. Rabbits have previously ravaged loweraltitude grasslands, and possums browse the forests and shrublands. The main woody weed threatening the area is sweet brier which forms extensive shrublands in parts of the Clarence Valley. Higher-altitude sites, comprising most of the Kaikoura ranges, are largely unaffected by weeds. Recreational use of the Kaikoura ranges is concentrated along the Kaikoura coast and around Mt Fyffe near the busy tourist town of Kaikoura. There are huts and tracks in

this area; otherwise the mountain ranges have few facilities. Tapuae-O-Uenuku, the highest mountain in the country north of Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park, is a popular and relatively easy climb. Manakau and Te Ao Whekere, on the Seaward Kaikoura Range, also attract mountaineers and trampers. The upper slopes of the Kaikoura ranges are undeveloped, providing an extensive area for remote-experience recreation, with challenging terrain, spectacular views and diverse landforms. Increasingly popular are rafting and canoeing trips down the Clarence River. The excursion down-river from the upper Clarence Valley near Hanmer to the Kaikoura coast takes several days and passes through a vast and scenic area with few structures or roads.

The Department of Conservation administers over 40,000 hectares on the Kaikoura ranges (see map). A further 41,000 hectares on the Seaward Kaikoura Range (Clarence Reserve lease) was purchased by the Nature Heritage Fund in 1994 and awaits formal protection (see Forest & Bird, November 1994). Most other areas are public (Crown-owned) land leased for grazing. Molesworth Station covers the southern end of the Inland Kaikoura Range, and the upper reaches of the Clarence and Awatere valleys. Greater protection of the special features of the Kaikoura Ranges has been proposed for some years. Parts of the area already have strict protection, including Mt Uwerau Nature Reserve (Hutton’s shearwater colony) and Blue Duck Scientific Reserve (lowland podocarp forest). There are also extensive areas protected as scenic reserve, notably on the crest of the Seaward Kaikoura Range and north of the lower Clarence River (Isolated Hill and Clarence Bend scenic reserves). In all, approximately 14,000 hectares are protected under the Reserves Act, and the remaining 27,000 hectares are protected as conservation area under the Conservation Act. Protection of areas of public conservation land as a Kaikoura Ranges National Park would have several benefits. It would ensure that the nationally important scenery, ecosystems and natural features of the area were given appropriate status and recognition. It would unify management of the various reserves and conservation areas. Involvement of the public in a national park investigation would prompt greater interest in the area and encourage support for its protection. Development of a management plan would clarify objectives for protection, and lead to the development of appropriate facilities for recreation. And, all these would raise the profile of the area, providing economic benefits for local communities, especially Kaikoura and Blenheim. The case for a national park on the Kaikoura ranges is even more compelling when placed in a national context. None of New Zealand’s 14 national parks protects the kind of drylands included here. Protection of the Kaikoura ranges as a national park will complement existing parks and greatly improve the extent to which they represent the original ecosystems and natural features of New Zealand. If a new national park included all public conservation land on the Kaikoura ranges, and the Clarence Reserve property, it would cover an area of 82,000 hectares. Of this

area, 68,000 hectares would be contained in one contiguous area on the Seaward Kaikoura Range. The other areas would form discrete outliers protecting places with special and varied qualities. That would make the Kaikoura ranges a medium-sized national park by New Zealand standards: larger than Tongariro, Egmont, Abel Tasman, Aoraki/Mt Cook, Whanganui and Paparoa national parks; and smaller than Arthur’s Pass, Fiordland, Te Urewera, Nelson Lakes, Westland/Tai Poutini, Mt Aspiring, Kahurangi and Rakiura national parks. A Kaikoura Ranges National Park would recognise the nationally important values of this area, providing benefits for protection and management. It would also add to the growing popularity of Kaikoura and South Marlborough as places for recreation and tourism. Protecting this region would also complement the country’s existing national parks and help showcase the distinctive features of the eastern South Island high country. Greater recognition and protection for this special part of New Zealand is long overdue.

MIKE HARDING has prepared the Forest and Bird case for a proposed national park covering the Inland and Seaward Kaikoura ranges. An environmental consultant, he lives in Geraldine, South Canterbury.

Black-eyed gecko

The black-eyed gecko was first discovered on the Seaward Kaikoura Range in the 1970s, though not formally described until 1984. It is New Zealand’s only alpine lizard, inhabiting bluffs and outcrops between 1250 and 2200 metres above sea level. Black-eyed geckos are only active at night, sheltering by day in large cracks on steep rock faces. This behaviour makes detection difficult. It has (by 1999) been recorded from only four locations on the Seaward Kaikoura Range, one location on the Inland Kaikoura Range and, more recently, on Mt Arthur in Kahurangi National Park.

Hutton’s shearwater

In 1965, shearwater burrows were reported by a local deerstalker high on the Seaward Kaikoura Range. Further investigation revealed nesting sites of Hutton’s shearwater on steep tussock and scrub-covered slopes 1200-1800 metres above sea level.

Hutton’s shearwaters breed only on the Seaward Kaikoura Range. It is one of the few shearwaters that still breed on mainland New Zealand, and only two breeding colonies are known. While stoats eat young shearwater chicks, they are not the main threat to the shearwater’s survival. Breeding is constrained by lack of suitable habitat, especially habitat that is inaccessible to feral pigs. The Department of Conservation intends to relocate birds to establish another breeding colony elsewhere on _ the Seaward Kaikoura Range.

South Marlborough’s Special plants

The distinctive flora of South Marlborough has several special features. Notable is the number and diversity of species in the daisy family, ranging from mat daisies (Raoulia species) to herbs and shrubs. Several species are found only in South Marlborough, including the alpine Raoulia cinerea, the rare button daisy, Leptinella atrata subsp. /uteola, and of course the Marlborough rock daisy (Pachystegia spp.). South Marlborough is also notable as the stronghold of the Heliohebe genus — the sun hebes: three of the five species are confined to the area (H. hulkeana, H. acuta and H. pentasepala). They are attractive rock plants with purple-tinged flowers and red-edged, toothed leaves. South Marlborough also supports the most well developed scree flora in the country. A number of the scree plants are found only here, including Hebe ramosissima, a harebell Wahlenbergia cartilaginea, and a willowherb Epilobium forbesii.

Investigating a National Park

Investigating new areas for protection as national park is a formal process guided by the National Parks Act 1980, and conducted by the New Zealand Conservation Authority. The criteria for protection have been interpreted in the General Policy for National Parks as areas possessing scenery of distinctive quality, ecological systems so unique or scientifically important, and/or natural features so beautiful, unique, or scientifically important that their preservation is in the national interest. Other criteria include the size of the area proposed, and the extent to which the area is modified. Public consultation is an integral part of a national park investigation. Forest and Bird believes the area easily meets the criteria for protection as national park.