Ecotourism in Niue

Forest and Bird, Issue 298, 1 November 2000, Page 11

Ecotourism in Niue

—Pam Crisp

Ts week-long ecotours to Niue in August with Wellington-based ecologist Dr Karen Kool and local guide Misa Kulatea provided insights into the island’s ecology and culture — and enchanting encounters with whales, dolphins and diverse reef life. Niue lies some 2400 kilometres northeast of New Zealand and there are strong ties between the two nations. Since 1974, when Niue became selfgoverning, the island of 260 square kilometres has enjoyed the status of free association with New Zealand and most Niueans have left the island to live here. The 1700 or so inhabitants who remain are spread among

14 villages. It’s a fragile community, financially reliant on New Zealand, which last year provided $3.75 million in budget support, and $ 2.5 million in project aid through the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade. Yet, for those willing to scratch below the images on the tourist brochures, Niue offers a genuine encounter with a place and a culture still intact. It’s as if the exodus of people has left space for nature — and if the island can safeguard its wild beauty, tell its stories and hold fast its memories, a Niuean ‘brand identity’ could form the basis for a small but viable ecotourism industry. As a visitor, you get to see and learn a lot. The forest is lusher than might be expected. A dense stand of tropical rainforest forms the Huvalu forest conservation area, an important

cultural site, and a source of food, fibre, timber and traditional medicines. Here, the bones of ancestors were laid in quiet caves that stud the coast and interior. Then there’s the ocean — relentless, alluring, and very, very blue. With no rivers or land run-off, the water around Niue is outstandingly clear with a visibility of up to 40 metres, and the snorkelling and diving are outstanding. From the balcony of the Matavai Resort on our last day, the sighting of a tail fluke is followed by the unmistakable hulk of a humpback whale. The week before, the other group watched a mother and her calf basking in the waves, just metres from the shore. On previous visits to the island, tour leader Karen Kool

was studying the ecology of the uga, or coconut crab, a local delicacy that, without careful management, could soon disappear. Misa Kulatea, working to establish the Hakupu Village Heritage Park and Cultural Centre on his family land, is determined not to let that happen — nor for Niue’s native pigeon, the lupe, to be hunted to extinction. It’s a considerable challenge. But the promise of an economic return from ecotourism may be a key to the survival of species, as well as local traditions and customs. You can visit Niue independently by a once-weekly Royal Tongan Airlines flight. For those preferring to be part of a group, the Niue Naturally tours offer safe and informed guiding.

visited the island

with Niue Naturally.