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stream from the adjacent bank are noticeable, and are the favourite resting-places for numbers of seagulls and other birds, the rocks being called by the Maoris " Kowhatu-tutae." The country bordering the river is now more rugged in character than heretofore, and the scenery improves in consequence, owing to the forest being shown to better advantage. At the 21st mile, the Manga-tawa rapids are met with, although it is only at low water that they present much difficulty. On the left bank a kiln has been erected to work the lime-deposits in the vicinity. Between the 22nd and 23rd miles is the beautiful Mangatawa Reach, and the river then turns sharply round to the left, rendering navigation somewhat awkward for steamers. Owing to this cause, the s.s. " Tainui" struck a sunken ledge of rock in 1907 and broke ofi her propeller, an involuntary stoppage and mooring at the place for three weeks being thereby necessitated. Among the hills, which here attain to a height of 200 ft. on the left bank, is the site of an old pa, admirably adapted for defence and outlook. At the 24th mile is to be seen the trunk of a red-beech tree which has fallen from the cliff into the river, and now remains firmly resting in the river's bed, but with its base still attached to the cliff. This tree is locally known as the Black Rock, and two fern-covered rocks close by are called by the Maoris " Nga-tamariki-o-Tumaru (the sons of Tumaru), the legend being that many years ago an exploring party from the Ngati-Maniapoto Tribe, headed by a chief called Tumaru, whilst paddling down the river found two newly born twin boys lying exposed on a rock, and as no other persons could be found in the vicinity, Tumaru took the boys and adopted them. At the 25th mile may be seen an old landslip from the right bank, which by the action of the current is now formed into an island ; and, half a mile beyond, the well-known coal-mines appear, they being only fifty yards from the stream, at the base of the slopes of a low ridge of hills, the cliff-faces of which show white amid the bush and scrub. The Mangapapa Mine, as the workings at this place are called, is one of the safest and most easily worked mines in the world. Naked lights have always been in use throughout the mine, and no accident has occurred throughout the twenty-five years the mine has been in existence. The seam of coal tapped by the mine is about 8 ft. thick, separated in the middle by impure beds of fireclay, and the drive has an easy gradient of about 1 in 10, which enables the coal to be run out by gravitation, whilst the sandstone roof dispenses with much of the timbering usually required. The coal is described as consisting of two qualities, the upper seam being superior lignite and the lower bright bituminous coal of superior quality, both igniting easily, giving off little gas, burning with a bright flame, and leaving a very small amount of white pulverulent ash, whilst the quantity is considered practically inexhaustible. These particulars are gathered from the Mining Handbook of 1906. Soon after leaving the Mangapapa Mine, the Manga-kawhia Creek discharges itself into the river on the right bank. Although the stream looks small from the river, yet its channel and valley is of much greater size farther back, and it drains a large extent of country. Nearly opposite the creek is a rapid, and at the end of a short straight is the Manga-toi Stream (on the right bank) at the foot of a short range of hills, which force the river to wind westward to circumvent them. The hills are about 500 ft. high from the water's edge, and the surrounding country is too steep for settlement. Turning the sharp bend, another range of hills about 700 ft. high is seen on the opposite bank, and a fine reach of over half a mile leads to the Manga-pohue Stream, on the left bank. The river here turns to. the east, and on the right bank, at the 28th mile, a pretty little waterfall about 30 ft. high is seen, the first one on the river's bank since leaving Mokau Township. Half a mile further on is a second waterfall about 40 ft. high, on the same side of the river. The scenery here is very fine, continuous ridges of hills running down from the back ranges to the river's edge, and between them many little streams with fern- and bush-clothed banks are seen disappearing into the belt of forest which covers all this country. Between the 29th and 30th miles is a fine cascade on the right bank, about 90 ft. high, the cliffs on either side rising to about 200 ft. Beyond the 30th mile the direction of the river changes to northeast, and a long series of rapids and rocky gorges renders the stream difficult for navigation except in canoes, whilst a considerable amount of snagging is required to improve the channel. The famous Panirau rapid is reached at the 31st mile, and the visitor may here pause to view the surrounding scenery with close attention. Undoubtedly this is one of the most attractive portions of the Mokau River, as its charms are shown off to full advantage by the character of the country and the innumerable diversity in the general colour-scheme, the changing lights and shadows among the vivid forest-growth, the bewildering tints of green to be descried in the wealth of ferns, nikaus, young plants, older forest giants, and the frequent carpet of native sedge ; the varied hues of the winding river, ranging from the dazzling foam of the successive rapids to the dark translucency of the placid reaches, which reflect on their shining mirror the fern-clad banks and wooded ridges, whilst above all a summer sky of purest azure, only broken by the occasional passages of fleecy white clouds, makes the sight of the Mokau on a fine day an experience never to be surpassed. One appears to be in the midst of unspoilt nature and limitless verdure. As far as the sight can reach, an evergreen forest stretches in an unbroken covering over the undulating hills and steeper ranges, and down the valley of this fascinating region flows a river rich in legendary lore, and serving as a gateway to a scenic paradise. The following description by Mr. James Cowan, Department of Tourist and Health Resorts, gives a very good idea of the scenery further up the river :— The Mokau River above Panirau Rapids. " Panirau, on the Upper Mokau, is an uncommonly beautiful spot. Here the river, after sweeping round in a sharp bend just where the Panirau Stream joins it (left bank), roars down in a long rapid, or series of rapids, which form the most serious obstacle to navigation on the whole course of the river. ' Panj-rau ' means ' many orphans ' : it is an allusion to the dangerous character of this part of the
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