A,—i

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from 1,200 to 1,300 inhabitants. The " whares "or houses seem well and neatly built, in sizes about 20 feetjong by 15 feet wide, and 10 to 12 feet high under the centre ridge-pole. The people appeared to be comfortably and well off, as far as I could judge from my experience of natives in other parts of the Western Pacific, the houses being well furnished with blankets, pillows, and garments of different descriptions, and the various necessities of Maori life. There seemed also to be plenty of food, and the people looked well nourished. Parihaka shows no sign of fortification. The neighbouring country however is rough, covered with bush in parts, intersected by watercourses, and generally adapted to irregular warfare. It is also hampered by the field-fences, which are either of strong timber, or else are banks, such as are seen in Devonshire. We were shown into a house where we found five or six elderly men, sitting and lying about smoking. These received us civilly, shaking hands with Mr. Hursthouse and me, and embracing Hone Pihama ; but the reserved courtesy, which I have been accustomed to see in Fiji, was wholly absent. After these salutations we sat down on the mats and lit our pipes. We were informed that Te Whiti was playing draughts, and we were desirous of showing that we were in no hurry. A man remarked after we had sat for a short time, " lie [the prophet Te Whiti] said something would happen to-day." Conversation was going on freely in the houses, but of course 1 could understand nothing except a few words I could catch by their being identical with Fijian, and a few gestures. Mr. Hursthouse, however, informed me somewhat of what was going on. This gentleman is in charge of the new road, about which some of the disputes have arisen ; and one of the Maoris asked him why he did not finish the road, saying that it was a much shorter and more convenient one for them (the Maoris) than the old one. A remark was made by a Maori that the part between New Plymouth and Stoney River was the worst. -"Ah," said another, "that goes through white man's land; they have to mind how they go there; in our land they can go straight at it." "Don't think they mind your feelings," said another. I mention the above items of conversation, as they seem to indicate no special ill-feeling against the road itself, or, rather, that it has been accepted as an inevitable fact. Further conversation about various matters went on. Among other things, they asked, " What sort of a man is the Governor ? " Hone Pihama spoke up well, describing what I told him about arrangements in Fiji, especially about the settlement of lands there. After we had sat and smoked for three or four hours, and fully proved that at least want of patience was not among our faults, food —potatoes, greens, and pork —was brought, and we were asked to eat, which we accordingly did; and it seemed to afford them satisfaction that we could enjoy their own food in their own way. After we had waited altogether about four or five hours, a chief, Tahana, asked what we had come for. He was told, "To bring the Governor's companion [a very free translation of A.D.C.], and a letter from the Governor to Te Whiti. If Te Whiti likes to answer it in writing, well and good ;if not, he can reply orally to Captain Knollys." He asked if we had the letter, and was told we had. Tahana then asked, " What sort of a man is the Governor ?" Hone Pihama answered, "He is, I think, a good man of high abilities." Tahana then said, " His works in Fiji may be left there with their good; he will not be equal to the task of setting the difficulties right in Now Zealand." He then went to Te Whiti, and returned saying nothing, by which we judged that Te Whiti did not mean to come and see us. We accordingly went to see him. We found Te Whiti in the village, sitting in the open air with the chief Tohu and others, wrapped in a blanket. He is a good-looking man, with a " smug " face, and a most marked expression of self-complacency and conceit. The absence of courtesy, dignity, and good manners, again struck me, as it would any one used to the courteous bearing of Fijian or Samoan chiefs. Had I met with such want of ceremony in Fiji, I should certainly have anticipated violence as the termination of the interview. It was evident, however, that no discourtesy to us was intended, the men, women, and children pushing about among the chiefs, and even against the sacred Te Whiti himself, without the least ceremony. We shook hands with Te Whiti and those round him. After a short pause, Hone Pihama asked if he should give the letter. As Te Whiti would not touch it, he laid it down by his side. Te Whiti just glanced at it, and made a sneering remark about the size of the envelope. As Hone Pihama laid the letter down, he said, " The reason for coming here is to give you this letter from the Governor, telling you that he is willing to talk to you about your promises ; and this is his companion to whom you may give your reply, if you do not like to write." Tahana took the letter up, saying, "Is it written in Maori?" and then, "Shall I do this to it?" breaking the seal. He then called a man named Tai to read it to all present. When Tai had read about two pages (as far as the words "to discuss these matters ") Te Whiti said, " The cooked potato cannot discuss." By this he meant that "he was cooked by the Government beyond discussion." Tai attempted to go on reading, but Te Whiti interrupted him again, with the same remark. Tai then put the letter in its envelope, and laid it down by Te Whiti, unread. I then asked Mr. Hursthouse to tell To Whiti that I had been sent by the Governor to bring the letter, and to talk to him, if he wished, on the subject it contained. Te Whiti, as soon as Mr. Hursthouse commenced to speak, said, "You must shut your eyes before you tell me what this man sa3 rs. Do you come here to support this letter and the wicked works you have been doing?" By this, he meant that Mr. Hursthouse, who is engineer of the new road, could hardly be a proper interpreter in such matters. Mr. Hursthouse told him that he only came as a servant of the Government. I then said, " The letter is only to tell you that you can meet the Governor; if you do that, you may make things clear to him, with a view to their being settled. The Governor has set right difficulties with people like you in Fiji." Te Whiti, as he persistently did when we spoke to him, turned his back, half-buried his head in his blanket, and pretended to be busy with his pipe. He returned no answer. Tahana then said, " There is nothing for Te Whiti to say or do; he only looks on —all doing is on the part of the Government." Te Whiti said to Hone Pihama, "Do not be deceived : the Government are bringing trouble for the future [literally, are pushing strife on in front]." After this we left, as we considered that nothing further could be done until (as we knew would be the case) the letter had been read and discussed among themselves, Wo accordingly drove