REAL JAM.

Waikato Times, Volume XXXVIII, Issue 3110, 21 June 1892, Page 2

REAL JAM.

Some time ago we made certain depreciatory comments upon the quality of the products of the majority of colonial jam factories, and speaking generally, we do not feel called upon to retract anything we stated in the article. The quality of most of the colonial jam is bad—"demd" bad, if we may be permitted to use an expression of one of Dickens' characters. Shortly after the article referred to appeared we received from Messrs Kirkpatrick and Co. of Nelson, two sainplo cases of their preserves, accompanied by a request that we should sample and publish our opinion of the same. The confidence iu the quality of their goods which the firm's action in submitting their preserves for a practical test evinced, nt once impressed us with the idea that they must be a cut or two above the ordinary run of colonial jams—a presupposition more than confirmod by subsequent gustatory experiments. It will be remembered that on receipt of the jams, we invited the ladies of the district to sample and express their opinions on them, but from diffidence or dome other reason but few called upon us. Those who did call, however, wore very favourably impressed with the quality of the jams, and one lady expressed the opinion that they were quite equal to "homemade " Of course, " home-made" is a very doubtful standard of excellence in many cases; but still the lady iu question intended it to be a high onoin this instance. The ladies not responding to our invitation, there was no other alternative but fur us to accept the responsibility ourselves, and being possessed of a ?weet tooth and a good palate, we did n»t find the task an uncmgeniat one. The consignment sruisistwl of jams, jellies, marmalade, and conserves. The jams comprised many varieties and the first good quality one remarks on sampling them is that tlie flavour of the fruit has not bnen destroyed by an excess of sugar—all the jams and jellies retaining the chatoctnristic flavours nf ttie vnrions fruit? from which they bad bsen manufactured. It is the practice with some jam-makers to make their jams "keep" by adding an undue quantity of sugar, resulting in the production of a sickly, nauseating compound, Messrs Kirkpatnck and Co., however, evidently prefer to impart " keeping " qualities by the more satisfactory method of well boiling tho fruit, and that it does possess this important quality was proved by the jam retaining its firmness and flavour even when kept in aii open glass dish for three weeks. Wβ need not tell experienced jammakers that jam so kept—unless well boiled, or stiffened up with an over-dose of sugarspeedily ferments, loses its flavour, and becomes sloppy. The jellies—apple, quince, and gooseberry—were bright and clear, and very firm, whilst the flavour was as full and fruity as one could wish—a striking contrast to the tasteless masses of opaque shiveryness which many makers put up in tins, label ** jelly." and trust to their customers' powers of imagination to euable them to pass it off as such. The orange marmalade was sweet, and devoid of tho bitter taste characteristic of Scotch marmalade—a difference ihat will, we think, be acceptable to most palates. The strawberry, raspberry, and apricot conserves cannot be doscribod otherwise than as luxuries. Thoy »ro put up in tdasa jars, ami wo stats mont. emphatically, and itgifes us groat pleasure to do bo, that never have wo seen jamscither from England or any other country— that are in any way superior to those. Tho fruit is of oxcollont colour, and boing preservod nearly whole, is of a very tempting appoarance. Were it generally known that such goods as theso were procurable there can be nodoub* they would meet with rapid sale, and more than hold their own agninst imported preserves. We congratulate Messrs Kirkpatrick and Co. upon the excellence of the products of their factory, and musfc apologise to them for delay in expressing oil* opinion thereon.