IS THE WANGANUI RIVER STRAIGHT?

Waikato Times, Volume XXXIV, Issue 2766, 5 April 1890, Page 5 (Supplement)

IS THE WANGANUI RIVER STRAIGHT?

Between the Paparoa and the Ohura at the 110 th mile, there are several sharp bends in the river, and numerous light. falls and rapids; the river is narrow in places, perhaps not more than 60 or 70 feet wide. One of the reaches is the abode of a "Taniwha" named Tokapihipihi, who has assumed the shape of a flat rock in mid stream; he is quite harmless now, poor old fellow, and allows himself to be sat upon with impunity. As;many persons will not have a clear idea of what is meant by a "fall," it may be well to attempt a description of one of the most,numerous class met with on the Wanganui. Assuming that the craft is of the Rob roy kind, and the journey down stream, the first thing noticed is a thin streak ,of white foam, perhaps a quarter of a mile distant. On approaching this the river horizon or brink is sharply defined against the more distant back ground, and it is not until this brink is nearly reached, that a view is obtained of the water rushing along to gain its lower level in the calm reach below. At this point a strong current is setting in from both banks towards the middle of the river, and it is advisable for the stranger to cease paddling, in order to take note of any rocks or snags which may be lurking about, and decide on the best course to take, as in a couple of seconds the gallient little craft is plunging .her beak up to the combings into the heaped up waves or billows which now occupy the mid stream, the waters of the lower reach eddying backwards alongside. These waves are from one to three feet- high, but may generally be in a great measure avoided by cutting across stream and just skirting along between them and the back eddy. The Maoris are'said to be very clever in steering this latter course, and this is no doubt a necessary precaution to prevent their undecked canoes from swamping. In the case of a Rob Roy it is rather better fun to take the middle of the rip. Upon slacking speed in the lower reach, and sighting back along the level of the upper one, it is somewhat galling to a sanguine aquatic soul to find that the difference of level of the upper and lower reaches is seldom more than two or three feet, and to calculate in his calmer moments that his speed has seldom exceeded 12 or 15 miles per hour (say eight miles speed of current and six miles speed of ship.) While taking the rapid he has vainly'imagined in his heart that the speed of an express train down an incline is absolute rest in comparison to his.

A feature of the river throughout its length is the presence innumerable small holes to be seen along the steep perpendicular banks of the river. They are about two inches in diameter and depth, and have been formed by the natives in poliner their canoes up stream, a performance they are said to be particularly proud of. No doubt it requires some skill to propel a canoo in this manner. At about the 115 th mile the boundary line between the Provinces of Auckland and Wellington terminates on the river, while the land on the opposite or west side of the river is in the Taranaki Provincial District : Here is therefore an excellent opportunity for the tourist to visit each of these provinces without any waste of valuable time. The Ohura is a large stream which falls over a papa ledge into the Wanganui at the 110 th mile. It is navigable for canoes in its upper course, but is said to fall about 300 feet, some miles above its junction. A portion of the proposed

Stratford Route is surveyed along ifa upper course. 1 At Aoraiigi, some 20 miloa up this river, the ironwork of a flour mill is to be seen rusting awny in the wildn. This, mill was taken up many years ago by„tbe notorious Moffat, who -was shot by the Maoris, after having been warned not. to trespass. ' Marao Kowhai was at one time a large kainga or settlement at the mouth of the Ohura but; has evideutly been abaudoned a long time, the only building standing at present being ah old mill in the last stage of decay. Between the Ohura junction and that of the Reitaruke which comes in on the left at the 104 th mile, stands a hill on the left named Ti Rata said by the natives to have been cleft by lightning —the lightning don't, appear to have shifted the hill much—perhaps the contract was too big. On the opposite side of the Wangaiiui a salt spring flaws from a 2 inch hole like a pipe. Here the Wanganui flows nearly due east for a couple of miles to the Retaruke junction and then turning shatply to the rigkt, runs due west to "Waikoriri fall, 2 miles below Retaruise junction. . , Siticc leaving Taumarunui no natives have' been seen or met, with the exception of ii party of cherry gatherers whose large canoe was moored at Pairiki, which is a deserted kainga a few miles above "Paparoa." The prolonged salutation " Tena Kontoii" lias hitherto been answered only by the echoes, but now on ' turning the bend at Ketaruki, it has the magic effect of bringing the figure of a sunburnt damsel of some 00 summers to the edge of a bluff a 100 feet overhead. As it is thought advisable to get the latest information as to the probable state of the Taurapokiore rapid known to be some eight or nine miles ahead. An interview is soon arranged with the chief rabbi of Kawhakaoka, this being the euphonious name of the settlement. The old gentleman is recognised as a late visitor to Waikato. He thinks it would be unwise to attempt the passage of the rapid until the flood has had time to subside, as at the present: state of the river a huge "ripo" or whirlpool is formed; "Many of the large 60-foot Maori canoes had been swamped iu it, and often the ' occupants had been drowned. Stay over-night and see liow the river may he in the morning."

Exchanging the rapakis for the more refined divided garment and shouldering the kai pakeha and rugs, a short journey up a winding path brings into view 'a level cultivated tor- < race of about 10 acres which had I not been discernible from the river. Ranged on each side of a short street are a dozen whares, built of totara slabs, and roofed with totara bark, and in the street are a few sheep. The pakehas receive a warm welcome from a dozen dames (chiefly of the palceozoc age, the younger members* being away at the Christmas meeting at Kiwitia), and rather a dubious one from the inevitable score of mongrels. A whare is set apart for the use of the visitors, and in half an hour huge dishes of kai maori are brought from cach end of the kainga. Of course, it is perfectly well understood that the pakehas cannot possibly devour a tithe of the food placed before them,- but etiquette has to be observed, and it would have shown disrespect not to have sent kai from each separate quarter. One dish is critically examined, hut all the tests applied fail to reveal its composition, and it has to be reluctantly passed ; buried in half liquid fat or grease are lumps of a blackish substance, which Wi Wi takes for swine hoofs. Ruapehu declares they arc preserved boot-heels, and the Merchant is of opinion that they are hunks of preserved pork in disguise. A knife is broken in the attempt to cut a piece in two and a bash with a tomahawk scattered a spray of grease in every direction, so further investigation of the mystery is abandoned. The host of hosts and hostesses are invited to share the kai pakeha, consisting of bread and butter, canned and spieed beef and tea ; the gentlemen accept the offer at once, but the ladies do not wish to appear rude and so wait patiently until the lords of creation have finished. One old lady claims the clipper Ruapehu (Ellis Line) as her own. Mount Ruapehu is hers and by the same token the ship must belong to hei too. Probably her real share in the mountain is very small, but in the possession of land, etc., it appears to be a pleasant Maori fiction that " a parti is equal to the whole." Between the 100 th mile and Kirikiriroa in the 97th mile the river forms a long bend with a narrow neck of land not more than a quarter of a mile across- In this loop is a fall named Oheei,' which had a a special interest for our fresh-water sailors, as Captain Mortar stayed here to interview the more important members of a family of snags. The fall is caused by a shingle island, which spreads the river out at the upper end, and this fact added to the brilliant reflection of the landscape, renders it much easier to distinguish oneself than the proper channel. WhileNgauruhoe and Ruapehu hold back in order to let the leader have plenty of sea room, Tongariro has paddled gaily into the rip without steadying up to take a calm view of the sitaation, with the result that by the time he is able to sight the proper channel, the strong 1 curreut setting across from the island is hopelessly carrying the ship into a labyrinth of snags. A buck, a splash, a pair of human hoofs sticking out of the surf, then an arm and a head just visible, a struggling figure:grasping the huge arms of a shagroost, and the s'.s. Tongariro is floating rapidly down stream, keel up, whilst her captain has secured a temporary situation as monarch of all he surveys. Whilst Ruapehu undertakes the contract of overtaking the direlict, Ngaruhoe gets his life line out and uucceeds in rescuing the castaway, and the double freighted craft is soon under way to join her companions. The losses embrace a coat, an overcoat, a hat, a pocket-book with two half sovs., and a little self respect. Tongariro is as sound as a bell and is righted without having shipped a drop of water. The aprons have been somewhat damaged in the excitement and a halt is' made at Kirikiriroa (long shingle bank) to repair them. Here the first eel pa below Taumarunui is passed. These structures are to be seen at intervals below and consist of a double row of stout stakes driven into the middle of the river bed and in line with the stream. The rows are about 10 feet apart, and are wattled. Near-the top of the stakes a long horizontal spar is lashed to each row in order to strengthen the structure, and at suitable seasons a net is secured at the lower end of the pa into which large quantities of eels are swept and netted. A couple of miles below, but owing to a bend in the river only half-a-niile or so in a straight line from Oheei, is the manswallowing and dreaded Taurapokiore." Some years ago an immeuse slip occurred here which brought down the whole face of a hill to the left from a great height and blocked the river up, thus raising and contracting the water-way. The slip is a conglomerate csnsisting chiefly of embedded shells of the cookie species, and at the level of the river is broken up into large blocks, which churn the water up a good deal. The confined channel is about 400 feet long and about 80 feet wide and is very swift, deep and rough. Below the narrow channel the whole force of the stream is expended against a wall of papa rock ou the right sido and an

utider-current sets across to the,left into: a sott of bay ftir-niod between the tail ofi tlie ship and a, bluff, .sohie yards below; causing a number of small whirlpools to the left of the rip v On approaching the fall the ships were run in shore, and two, of the skippers' , were weak-minded enough to erawl over ; the jagged shelly junks of rock forming' the toe of the slips, with the object of examining the boss whirlpool, alleged to reside in the bay alluded to above, andj to choose the best, course, through the rapid. It Was. rather a disappointment to find tliat the terrific whirlpool had' dwindled away to a broad swirl of no particular interest. As it was Christmas Day perhaps the old fellow had taken a .holiday. It was decided to keep. a. course, through? the rapid as close to tlie toe pf the slip as safety would allow, and this proved to be a wise precaution, as at the tail of the rip the boats.were carried across ?tream against the, wall of papa on the right, auij had to ,be, kept off by a thrust of the paddle. . Returning to the fleetlit is , decided that ■ the,. Mer-! chant is to have, the honour of taking,the. lead,: and arrangements >vere ; made' to: pick up any stray fragments of humanity: which may possibly be, ,found promiscuously around. Having cafefully > adjusted his waterproof apron the gallant! leacter backs out into the mid-stream, and' is soon away at a rattling pace,.followed,! at a short distance* by Tongariro.

By the time Ruapeiiu has lighted his pipe, the merchant and his vessel have almost finished'their-mad.-career, whilst Tongariro is gaily plunging along in ,the thick of the saltlesS billowy brine. The flagship Ruapeiiu is soon uuder way, and in less than a minute the three clippers are again ranged up abreast in clear water. The decks have been washed .clean, but the passage of the terrible bug bear Taurapokiori is a thing of the past. Our voyagers are now in the most sombre pirt of the gorge (Christinas Day is a fitting time to be in the miiidle of a gorge), and for several miles the falls and rapids occur at pretty and regufar interval's of half a mile or soi and it is only in the now eddying reaches that much paddling is 'done. Many 1 of the rapids are of a mild type, often tailing off into numberless small whirlpools against the perpendicular walls of paper rock, confining the river. The Rob Roys are allowed to drift lazily 'along, with scarcely any more guidance tHau an occasional push with the hand or paddle to keep them from grazing the banks. Between the rapids there is no defined current down stream ; the intermingling eddies swirl from side to' side of the river and sway the boats in every direction, making a straight course impossible, and being therefore rather tiresome to steer through.

After a search of a few miles a long ledge of took at last affords a foothold and resting place on which the Christmas dinner may be discussed. This'most important meal of ! the year consists of part of a roll of spiced beef hauled out from the dark recess of Ngauruhoe's fore cabin, where it has been soaking iii bilge water, a slice or two of bread, aud a pannikin of hot tea—a most "ratifying and pleasaut contrast to the abominable course of indiscriminate stuffing; to which poor suffering humanity is compulled to submit (at this season) in the recking haunts of plagueing civilisation. , .

Christmas night is passed at Uta'pn, a somewhat populous native settlement at about the 71st riiile. As previously mentioned, a native track conucets this point with the outer world, and for a mile or so on each side of the river, horses, cattle, and f.hcep are to be seen grazing ou the steep hill sides under cliffs and bluffs of white sandstone.

The kaincu, at which the party are invited to stay, is picturesquely situated hish above the river, on a gently-sloping bill side. The inhabitants are a hospitable, happy and contented lot, miny of them being able to sprak a little' Eus:li*h. The local ppoken Maori is distinguishable from that of Waikato by a peculiar hiatus of speech, where the aspirate would be used by a Waikato native. The youthful and fascinating, but fickle, Captain Wi Wi has evidently forgotten the young lady whose charms ho enthralled him at Tantnarunui, and may now be seen surrounded by a bevy of noisy young ladies, who are laughincly learning English phrases from him. One of these, whose animal spirits just bubble over with fun and mischief, and is rude enough to indulge in ••lantomiiuio imitations of the French language, con.M-tinsr chiefly of inurnblinirs and facial contortions. This is in allusion to the youthful captain's name, "WiWi" boine tfoml Maori for " Frenchman " or " French."

While Peneiana Ruapehu undertake.*, with the aid of a kit of boat-repairing tools, to doctor a sick, but energetic eight-day clock, which persistently strikes the age of the christain era at a moment when the long hand declares that it is half-past twelve o'clock, and the minute hand remains hung up and disabled at a quarter to nine; the merchant is eagerly questioned as to the truth of a rumour in circulation to the effect that the seat of Government is to be transferred to England, the colonial statesmen being said to have throwu up the sponge in despair. The excitement caused by the first day's experience of the Wanganui severely tried and unstrung the nerves of our expeditionists, and as a consequence, their slumbers at Kawhakaoka were broken and disturbed by unearthly soulpiercing, phantastic visions of rushing raging, surging torrents in comparison to which Noah's flood at its howlingest could have been but a Here at Utapu a lot .of the excitement has worn off, and our friends enjoy a more refreshing night's sleep. ■■ The Manganui-o-te-ao joins at the 64th mile, where floods in the Wanganui sometimes rise to a height of 25 feet and back up the former river for a distance of three miles.

The Wanganui now begins to loose a good deal of its gorginess, but there is not tnuuh cultivation on the banks nntil Pipiriki is reached at the oGth mile. In the upper reaches of the river, the scenery has been sombrely beautiful, the most precipitous wooded slopes rising to great heights above the edges of the perpendicular and over-hanging cliffs, which confine the river. Magnificent groves of fern trees mass in the gullies. Creeping vines and small fernery droop over the cliffs and oven the unusually uninteresting birch which here reaches its northern limit, adds to the general effect, as its gnarly roots creep and twi«t among the crevices of the rocks. Nevertheless, on the whole, there, has been a sameness of character in the scohery, and a fjreat deal of the interest and attention ha 9 been concentrated on the river itself.

Prom Pipiriki onwards to Upokongaro, seven miles above Wansranui, although there is no flat land, the hills are less broken, and the scenery is indescribably beautiful. The nativo settlements of Hiruhararaa (Jerusalem), Tawhitinui, Kawana, Ranana (London), Karatia (Galatea), Koriniti (Corinth), Atene (Athens), Te Reka Reka, Parakino, and a 6core more are passed at intervals of two or three miles.

As the rivor is snagged to Pipirik'", there is little trouble in navigating it. Mue still reaches, occasionally miles long, are separated by generally light falls and rapids, and as the country is of a sandstone formation, each little creek wears out a gulch into which broken blocks of stone fall and are swirled out into the rivor in times of flood, and romaiu as jut-

ting points which cfinfcftipfc the pavigable channel.,. ~ Beautifully green ( grassy slopes are fringed along the'rlver banks by dark •fdliAged bd.shys,\fu4\areti,batokeji hi£!\ PP by white sandstoija cliffs, carved and sculptuved out of tba. uteep und forestclad hills. About, the settlements many a prominent jutting; peak is crowned with a wooden niausoloiim, red pajntcd, where doubtloss repose the bones' pf many .'•» 'warrior chief; • 1 Every 'shade lof ifreen from that of the darkdeaved k'araka' to the pale green ngaio is represented, and each bend iti the river Wings' into view new and ever changing scenery. 1 Here i* ' seen a substantial-looking homeotead with outhouses: there is a water-mill. with well-appointed machinery. Now may bo seen the spire, of a chapel peeping out above a prrovo of weepitig willows,'the bell tolling for vespers ; next; may be noticed au' orchard, or rather' a' grove of fruit trees. ''tylaby of the wator-sidef seenes'aro bewilderingly and' dazzlingly beautiful, as'the foliage isredutilica'ted by the river 'reflection,.|so' brilliantly, as often ttr rehder it alnriost impossible' to' distinguish'* the imagefrorn the reality. In the words oi America's immortal pdfet Harte, ' ' Nothing oould be finot; or more beautiful to sec. And tourist thai leaves our .shoreswithowt . visiting at 'least ''tbis portion of the Wangauui River, oari never boast that he hasten New Zealand properlyi A gentleman who hails from "the Faderlatid, considers the Rhine cari't hold a candle to tho VViinganui, Returning t,o our canoeists, we find the mat mid-day, energetically paddling <lown a long and swift run to Pipiriki, anxious to escape a sharp shower, which . threatens a good drenching. , Pipiriki coir-ists oia store, a lyater,mill, a few houses, and whares,' and a postoffice. A cart road from the river service here connects with the Waimarino Plains, or Kerioi, under Mount Runpehu, and on the plateau which is some 10Q0 feet or 2000 feet in vertical height above" the river.

A mile ■or so further on, whilst. fhontinsr a rather swift rapid, with aw eel pa built iu the, middle of the river, two of the* captains are malicious enough to refrain from warning No. 3 against taking, tho wrong side of the eel pa und nneoneiously running on to a. long, rough aiid shallow shiqglo'bar,.'dae'epti vjely covered with only a. few inches of rather angry water. No. 3 it convenient to per, .outside his ship and enter into a heated discussion with the swift currant to decide which, is to.,"boss the canoe, and, after a good deal of wrestling, the captain wins his fi^ht.

( At Kiwitea, just below Jerusalem, hut on the opposite or right' brink, a.native Christmas, meeting is in full swing-, aiid, as the Merchant has business with' one.of the Hangitiras, the fleet is grounded and visited by a large number i«f the natives. Captains Ruapehu and Tongariro stay by the ships, while thr>, merchant transacts his business, and are, iuforrned, on IJjo hitter's .return, that the meeting up at, the settlement in a, very bift' one. Abaufc a hundred Maori canoes, generally painted in white and black, aw moored .along the river beach, and this, perhaps accounts for the very few natives, seen on other parts of tlie river. . A pott pie of miles below Kiwif.oa, and in the 48th mile, !a the Moutoa. This is where a big .fight between the friendly natives and the Hauliaus took place in 1864. It had been agreed between tho two factions that neither should pass the island, which was to bo considered as a boundary, but by accident a, shot was fired at one end of the island, and . being answered by a shot or two front, the other party, the.opposite forces soon collected and began blazing away, more in fun than anger, until.some one got hurt, and then the gainc was carried oil in real earnest.

There is a swift rapid at the lower end of theisland, ami after passing through London is the Kawaka rapid, one of the swiftest on the river, but as, it has been cleared of rocks ami suags it i-3 capital fun to splash through the middle of the rip.

The classical Corinth is a native village in the 40th mile, and is a very pretty little place, boasting a Roman Catholic Chapel.

Iu making Athens, at the 33 rd mile, the expeditionists were benighted during a. downpour of rain, and had to urn the gauntlet of a few rapids in the dark, but luckily the only casualties were a couple of rather close acquaintances with as many .snairs —no live* lost, .fust to wind up cotit<i t.'jnlly u landing-had to be effected up a ph;«p and .slimy bunk, and of eour.-e tin* nice whito boating suits (which l.nd been donned in thu morning- in orler to produce as fine ail effect ast pnscibli*) wero utterly spoiled for effect. A thorough iicorchinjr and smoking over a biir lire iu a. small boxedup whare with no outlet for tli'o smoke, dried these garments enough to enable them to bu worn next day, but all the glory of the attire had disappeared.

Spriusf tides flow up to the lower end of Parekino settlement, "25 mile-* from the sea, and 22 above Waiifjanui. Krum the 22nd mile to Upokongaro at the 7'h mile the direct line is not more than ;Si miles. Midway between t.he-e point* i* h quarry perched on a hill to the K-l'r, th» stone being brought to the river down a steeply graded tramway.

Upokonsaro is situated at the foot nf the hills which form the eastern boundary of tho extensive plain which forms thn sea board and on which .the town nf Wanganui is built. The village contains a pub, several stores and a furry.

Our skippers arrived at Upokongaro a t mid-day, after several miles of stiff paddling against wind and tide, but, a shave, a change of attire, and a hen rty dinner, washed down with a small pluss of ginger beer, soon put them on friendly terms with themselves and the rest of creation.

Staying fov an hour or so, to allow I'm; tifle to turn, the remainder of'tho trip is made on a broad tidal river, flowing between willow frinsred banks and suburban residences. Passing under th« Railway Bridge at Aromoho, the end ships lluapehu, Ngaurohoe and Toiil' iriro are shortly run on to tho landing stage of the Union Boating Club's sheiU, and their captains are most eordiilly welcomed by the courteous Capt. lU'hm and other members of the Club, to wlnim the thanks of the expeditionists arc hereby most heartily tendered.

Upon turning back to take a last lingering look at the river the unsophisticated Capt, Wi Wi fell into a curious liiit somewhat excusable error. Noticing an iron affair on a griddle on the beach lie mistook it for a gigantic flat iron, and asked to be shown through the steam laundry, which he, supposed must somewhere near at hand, nnd it took some time to explain to him and convince him that it was not a flat iron at all ,but simply a. steamer built specially for the up-river trade. To any enterprising firm of Rib Royists who may perohunce in t.ho brijrht hereafter think that the adventures of u round trip would justify the expen lit.ure of a ten pound note each, and the loss <»f ten day.-.' holiday' elsewhere ; it may be worth while pointing out- that the ciinoea (which should be roomy and stron'*) would have to be carted from Mokiu Railway Torminns to Te Konrrt, »s tlvi bast, placo to ettibarlc; a dist.i of ;|i) miles, with a break of (i miles of puck track between tho Tunnel and the Onguruho River. In conclusion 'the warmest thnnks of Messrs Water, Sorter, and Mortar,

hereby tendered to Mr John Rochfort, for the line of his excellent chart of the Wanganui, by the aid of which every feature of the river oould be recognised. A similar compliment is paid to all those friends who so nobly helped forward the cause of science by assisting to carry the boats to water. As " Bio's" experience of the lower Wangactii natives was different, it >a only fair to say that the expeditionists received the kin lest hospitality from all the natives en route, sleeping accomodation, blankets, and kai being cheerfully offered without any expectation of roward. HEOI ANO.