VILLAGE SETTLEMENTS AT FIREWOOD GREEK, AND WHAINGAROA HOT SPRINGS.

Waikato Times, Volume XXVII, Issue 2590, 16 February 1889, Page 1 (Supplement)

VILLAGE SETTLEMENTS AT FIREWOOD GREEK, AND WHAINGAROA HOT SPRINGS.

_ « Knowing the steady advocacy of The Waikato Times of any enterprise that is favourable to the welfare and development of this district, I venture to give so:no notes of ray holiday trip to the Ngaruawahia Village Settlements and Whaingraroa Hot Springs both of which places deserve to be more widely known.

Leaving Hamilton at 10a.m., I reached Ngaruawahia in time for dinner, I was fortunate to with two of Mr F. Edgecumbe's survey staff, who were ridingon to their camp at Kerikcri, we crossed the Waipa river at the old ferry near the railway wharf. The punt that used to be there is on tho bank a perfect wreck, but there is a large safe canoe owned by Hopero, which plies for hire. Mrs Hooere paddled us across, swimming our horses by the side of thecanoo,'tho charge being one shilling. Their settlement is on the opposite shore, and we pass through their stockyard and paddocks, and along the west bank of the Waipa. This river looks more lovely than ever in the bright sunshine, its placid waters fringed on either side with graceful willows, A ride of a mile and a half brings us to tho Mangahoo stroam, or as it is more familiarly known, The Firewood Creek, which wo cross by a log bridge. Here is located the first section of the village settlers. They have made good progress with their small holdings ; in every case their gardens bear marks ol being well cultivated. I was glad to see some cows grazing, and by their condition I should say that pasturage is plentiful ; indeed on the sides of the road the feed is good, and in many places equal to cultivated pasture. The road, for some distance, is being widened sufficiently for wheeled traffic, which is a great necessity, the narrowness of the track being a great drawback to the progress of the settlements, the only means of conveyance of goods, etc., being by pack horses, the sharp turns of the road where itfollows the bends of the creek causing difficulties for the passage of a loaded sledge. This, however, is being rectified by the cuttings now in progress. We now enter the dense bush. The scenery here is remarkably pretty, the path being cut along the banks of this prettiest of woodland streams, with its fern-clad precipitous sides almost overhanging the restless, noisy waterfalls tumbling over the rocks in mimic confusion aud fussiness as if they wore hundreds of feet instead of only a few inches of cascade to falls at the most 30 feet high. The trees have been cut down, and many of them have fallen across the creek, so that one only sees the water at intervals. We found it deliciously cool after the glare of the sun in the open country, and as we ascend to the higher level it is quite refreshing and invigourating.

Passing the falls and leaving the Firewood Creek settlement, we find fairly open fern country before we enter what is known as the mile bush. I hear that there are fifteen hundred acres of Crown lands of good quality here, not yet thrown open for selection. That is a great pity, for it would be readily taken up. and help to connect the lower with the upper village settlements. It is well timbered with totara, tnaitai, rimu, and other valuable woods. The track, though still ascending, is of remarkably easy grade, one in thirteen, I think, being the rule. We now reach the upper village settlement of Akatea. The results achieved in one short year are most creditable. Toiling on, toiling on, appears to be the motto. The cottage gardens, with their thriving young fruit tree 3, are quite a feature, indicative of perseverence under great difficulties, two, in particular, indicating continuous and hard labour. A cheery greeting from father and son, who were working at some clearing, showed no sign of dispondancy or discontent. The children looked clean, happy, and well-nourished. These people deserve great praise for their courage, endurance, and perseverance, for they are certainly the pioneers in the opening up of a large and fertile district, for it is not confined only to village settlers, but there are large areas, either surveyed or ready to be surveyed and open * for selection and sale, and only waiting to be better known, well watered, magnificently timbered, and above all of limestone formation, it ought not to go begging long. Already there are settlers ou blocks of 150 to 400 acres, and doing good work. Bush land and broken it is, but for permanent grasses it is equal to, aud even superior to most of the Waikato lauds.

We have now crossed the watershed with its patches of fern clad tableland, and soon strike a small creek and the Akatea stream running in a northwesterly direction, following its course until it falls into the Waingaro creek, here is the junction with the Huntiy and Raglan road. I was very much disappointed with the track which cost so much time and money, it suffers seriously in comparison with the one over which we had just passed, aud (I speak under correction), I believe at not a tithe of its cost. Still it lias this merit, the bridges are all permanent structures, and wide enough for wheeled traffic. I could but notice the growth of the koromiko, a sure indication of the fertile character of the soil. Could our Australian cousins see just now what I passed through, how they would feel inclined to envy us—or better still to transfer their belongings and energies to this more favoured spot, untouched by the hand of man. Their homes would literally have to be carved from the wilderness, hill and valley, glade and glen, can be made to produce food in abundance, and cattle to go in and out and find pastureAy, aud water too in abundance, even in this very hot weather, clear cold water tumbling over the limestone rocks or gathering into little pools and eddies, really it is a delightful scene, and makes one feel thankful that such places are provided by the Giver of all good. The wonder is that of the thousands of grimy toilers, and those who have some reserve of means and strength that this land is not taken up—surely the difficulties are not insurmountable. Here is land in any quantity open for settlement, and on all sorts of terms, and no one seems to know it—from the villago sections of fifty acres, either bought or on perpetual lease, to the larger areas such as that which is now being surveyed for a German company, there is a varied choice. Here is a portion of tho large block belonging to tho Waikato Coal and Shipping Company, which should soon be in tho market, and a little in front of us is another block Of one thousand acres re-

served for village settlement, reaching quite to the Hot Springs reserve. How is it that it is so littlo known ? As I ride along the fern patches with the clover spreading along the sides of the path, I am templet to wish that I had been able to pitch my tent here when fourteen years ago I had penetrated nearly to this very spot after frightful toil and fatigue. I did not then deem it possible to have what is now on the eve of accomplishment—a good road from Ngaruawahia, nor had I then heard of the Hot Springs, and the Haharamata ranges were thought impassable for a road. Yet here it is; easy grades, solid track, no swamp, good bridges. All that is wanted is the widening of the road, and on the side nearer the Springs that would not be costly.

The eveniug sun was now adding to the beauty of the scene, shedding a soft glory over the tree-tops ; flax, fern and tutu are tinged with rosy light, even the plumage of the kingfisher is more gorgeous. The ground lark running in front of our horses, flits and seems to melt away in the golden haze, the kaka noisily asserts himself, and nature is anything but lonely and still.

A bend in the road brings us in sight of Mr Wilson's house, and the bath buildings of the hot springs. I am glad to get hero, for being unused to the saddle lately the ride from Hamilton is rather tiring-, although tho distance is not so great as I anticipated. I find gODd accommodation here, the house has eleven rooms, built ai it is on a little knoll, it is pleasantly situ ated and healthy. Cleanliness and a quiet cheerful welcome stamp the word "home" in strong character, not merely au inn without tho drink, but tits abode of peace and rest, quiet without euuui, no grasping host or hostess or hungry waiter frets your limited liability sensibilities, for Wilson's charges are extremely moderate. The centre attraction are tho baths, there are two commodious bathing houses—one of which is for the exclusive use of fern lies. Tho temperature of the water as it issues from the Spring is I2odog. fahr. and is conducted at pleasure by a flume into the baths. A corresponding supply of clear cold water can be turned ou by tho bather at will,so that any temperature

can bo obtained, tho river with its smooth shingly bed flows immediately in front, a plungo into its cooling stream from the hot bath back into tho hot water and again into the cold is delightfully invigorating, half an hour or more of this, makes the years that have rolled over one seem but light and restores almost tho elasticity of youth. There is also much to please tho eye and car in tho natural purroundiugs, nature has not been unkind, manuka, fungus and ferns blend with the denser foliage of the rising bush, unspoiled as yet by the hand of man, nor is it the silence of solitude, for native birds are not, yet frightened away, the little warbling riro still blends ifcsnote with tho rippling gurgling waters, while in the near distance tho lowing of the cattle, with tho crowing of rival domestic fowls from an apt accompaniment, even lark and sparrow are not wanting. This place is oomparatively now to Europeans, but has a history of its own ; as a sanitorium it has been used by tho natives for many years, Maori tradition says they were even better many years ago, it appears that a tapu was laid upon them iu old Te Wherowhero's time in consequence of one of his relatives having died here, but that has been removed, and indeed it has been a favourite resort of our good friend Tawhiao until lately, since Europeans have come so frequently the Maories have abstained from their visits, although they have a separate bath for their own use.

During Mr Wilson's excavations on the river bank, for both his houses he found pungas, the sides and ends of ancient baths a good depth below the surface, and iu a fair state of preservation. There is an old track from Karakiriki, sometimes used by the Maoris, but it is rough in the extreme. Mr Wilson visited this place just thirteen years ago, staying a couple of days. I remember a friend of mine from Whatawhata coming here a long while ago, crippled with a kind of rheumatic paralysis, and getting much relief. The last time I saw him he appeared a hale and hearty old man. So that cures effected here may be judged as permaneut indeed. Tho mineral quality of the waters, I should say, are equal to the splendid springs of the Taupo district, and far superior to the enervating soda springs of To Aroha, while the climatic conditions and surroundings arc much more conducive to health than the depressing atmosphere of Rotorua, besides being within the limit 3 of one's somewhat limp pockets. A young lady from Huntly was brought here on horseback by her father. For years she has not been able to stand. Everything possible has been tried in her case—even a prolonged stay at R itorua—but iu vain. If she gets cured even by degrees, it will bo a wonder. I hear, since my return, that she is gaining strength in her lower limbs. The water is well charged with sulphur, but Mr Wilson has no analysis of it. A florin put iu the water turned quite black iu ton minutes.

Mr Wilson has a thriving garden, from which ho draws a largo supply of vegetables, and his young fruit trees planted last winter are doing well. That, and a paddock from which he was cutting ryegrass seed, was only burned off last autumn, pretty significant of what this soil is capable of, and as for manure, not an ounce has been used. It is surprising how much ho has done, almost singlehanded. He is a most industrious man, yet he found time to take me for a ride to Whaiiigaroa, on the inner harbour of Raglan, a distance, of six or seven miles. This is a fine sheet of water, but being low tide I did not see it to advantage. A small island iu the centre stands sentinal wise, while towards the extreme upper part the bold limestone cliffs on the one side, and a patch of mangrove on the other mark the outflow of the Kerikeri Creek, on which the Messrs Wilson have a flax-mill. I am told that this is the only place south of Auckland where the mangrove is growing. At the head of another inlet, where the Waingaro stream flows in, is a landing stage for timber, erected for and by tho Maoris ; also a landing and covered store used by the settlers for goods brought by boat from Raglan.

Half way between here and the hot springs is a Maori kianga. They appear well off by the look of their whares and cultivations. A promising crop of potatoes was being moulded up with horseaud cultivator. The younger folks and brown ladies were disporting themselves in the river, while on the adjacent bushes the muslins and other feminine habiliments hung out to dry, showed that they could rival their white sisters in matters of dress. Near here is the farm lately occupied by Mr W. "H. iClark, and now owned by a Mr Picken, a paddock of oats near the house looked well, while a short distance away they were busy hay-making. The cattle ou the rough run as well as some sheep were iu splendid condition. During the few hours we were away, a fresh accession of visitors to the springs taxed Mrs Wilson's resources and energies, but she is quite equal to the occasion, and everyone is made at home and comfortable—everyone of us are pleased with the place, and quite satisfied witli our host and hostess, and promise ourselves a renewal of our little holiday. My return journey was very pleasant of course, caught by just tho edge of a thunder storm iu the bush, I found reI fuge iu the house of one of the village

settlers, I would not betray confidence, or I could say much in praise of the house mother. Such women are the backbone of a new country. King Solomon's model housewife had more to her hand than this woman, and less of her difficulties, or he would have lavished still greater encomiums, enough to say that I found the greatest hospitality, and can testify to the quality of her butter, home made bread, etc., her household well ordered,'cheerfulness, cleanliness, and above all a thankful contentment in spite of a progeny of, I think, a baker's dozen —only one—only one trouble. She docs want a school for her children ; peace, good soul, that will come in time, meanwhile they are enlarging their borders and turning the wilderness into a fruitful field.

With a feeling averse to village settlements before my trip, I am now compelled to pronounce them a decided success, only give a fair quality of land fairly accessible, some slight public work at first, and such a Government deserve, as they now have had in my hearing, the thanks of an industrious and contented people—while as to the value of the sulphur springs as a cure for chronic rheumatism, my short residence atTanpo where the water is so similar, gives me glad reason to speak well of their efficacy. One drawback there is for the poor weak sufferer ; lie has no means to reach that Bothesda excepting on horseback, but I hope ere long to see a good carriage road right through, both for the opening up of settlement on the large blocks of land in the hands of the Government, for the value of those settlers already there, and to enable us to reach those healing waters which Nature has placed at our very doors. One word more for strangers ; I hoar that one of the hotel-keepers at Ngaruawahia will provide horses at a low charge, and even a guide for any visitors who, coming by trait), put up at his house.— Yours faithfully, Cokiiekl'ondent.