"The Distaff."

Waikato Times, Volume XXVII, Issue 2251, 11 December 1886, Page 2 (Supplement)

"The Distaff. "

Canvas and lace striped tussore materials demand different treatment and arrangements to fabrics of a less wiry nature, and the following costume has been specially designed with this object, at well as to allow of some diversity of material and permit of silk and other dresses to be renovated into the semblance of new ones. The dress has a petticoat of green surah, with a rather deep kilt all round. The shade is something between an .-esthetic moss tint and a bright sage tin*. Tht tussore is of silky texture, with alternate lace stripes and close ones, with large satin circles. The back is composed of three entire widths, looped in the fashionable bournous fashion, with three hanging loops. On the right hand side, »ext to the back, there is a flat pleated piece which requires two widths of material. One side is tacked underneath the back drapery ; but the other nide, which goes towards the front, is quite loonc, and has velvet bows attached at intervals to the edge. Four «r five straight widths of material are then joined together and s?t m flat pleats, which ar* pressed and taped about twelve inches from the bottom edge. The side which goes to the right of the figure is folded and attached to the velvet bows, allowing a small space between, through which the surnth petticoat, shows. Both edges are loose from the foundation, and held only at the waist and by the velvet bows. Across the front the pleats hang straight down from the waist, but on the left side the tussore is looped down the side by upward pleats, each securely tacked to the foundation and going under the edge of the back drapery. Now this costume, although exceedingly simple, has an extremely elegant and uncommon appearance, and admits of satin or ('ilk skirt*, which have done previous service, being used to present an entirely different efteot. Black satin or silk skirts may be used with canva9 materials, foulard, broche, grenadine, and other ntimtner textures ; and coloured t>ilks may be used with a variety of good*, those of an open or gauzy nnture being the most appropriate. The bo* b may correspond with the skirt or the bodice, so that three materials may be combined, or the skirt, bows, and bodice may mat oh both in colour and material. The bodice of the gown sketched is of silk velvet, in colour exactly matching the velvet bows and the surah skirt ; and the pleated vest is of the lace-striped tussore, with a pointed belt of velvet. The hat is of Dunstable Htraw in a pale tan shade, and moBS->green ribbon velvet, The clusters of mixed bows are intermixed with a few sprays of tan-coloured flowers somewhat resembling the lilac blossom. This would form a charming costume for evening or fete wear in white crepe or Indian muslin and light-coloured aiik ; or could bs copied in brown surah, velvet, and tussore. With black oostumns, a similar hat in black ohip or straw could be trimmed with black velvet and crimson or strawooloured ribbon ; or, for slight mourning, creamy- white or heliotrope ribbon uould be substituted, the flower* always matching the light ribbon. Every width which compose* the overskirt is of the exact depth of the foundation, bo that the veriest novice may cut out this dre« without fear of Hpoiling the material, and on a stand she may easily copy the arrangement. A well-cut foundation is essential, as this determines the over-skirt.