A LADY'S LETTER.

Waikato Times, Volume XXVII, Issue 2242, 20 November 1886, Page 2 (Supplement)

A LADY'S LETTER.

(Home Papkr.) * I Think my readers must know by this* time that I favour self-coloured fabrics and approve of combined materials. I | believe in the good effect of silk and cashmere in conjunction, velvet and cashmere, or serge, as also in plush and some self- colon reel, glossless materials I saw a lovely gown the other day. It was made of cashmere and plush in indigo blue, bordered at all edges with narrow bands of silver fox fur. As fur is likely to be worn as a trimming for indoor gowns during the cold weather, dressmakers are favouring the redingote. Its simple, straight lines and somewhat severe stylo favour the utilisation of fur. The back is cut in almost exact resemblance of a man' 3 great coat, the skirts long, and slit up at the back ; there are lappets and buttons and a roll collar. But the redingote changes it 3 character at the hips ; panniers starting from those parts are carried over the figure in front. Large and handsomely carved buttons appear both on indoor and out-of-door toilettes. A small pocket, placed high on the right side of the cordage, is a'popular addition. The pocket admits the handkerchief, and nothing else. Plainer and simpler mode 3 will, I believe, prevail for some months, as the heavier materials for winter wear are too massive to cut up into fripperies. Woollen goods of substantial make will be chiefly worn, and for once we may give Fashion credit for consistency ;but we shall not be sombre whilst sensible, for these woollen fabrics are made up over coloured velvet or the new corduroy, which has a self-coloured ground of some neutral tone on which are fine stripes in variouscon trusting colours. For example, I have in my mind a friend's gown made of beigeciloured woollen, worn over a petticoat of cord de la reine that had a stone-coloure! surface, with fine stripes of pale pink, pile blue, and dark brown severally. The drapery of the over-skirt was long so that only as it were by chance did one get a glimpse of the smarter petticoai. It appeared as panels on either side, and the open-fronted jacket showed a waistcoat of the striped material. There were revers of it on the jacket, and the cuffa and roll collar were likewise trimmed with it. When dressmakers do not make the sleeve of different miteriil from the b jdice they occasionally make tho sides of tho carsige unlike each other; sometimes it is of two colours and distinct materials, and sometimes, if the miteri il is tho same, the make is totally dissimilar. I have seen the left side of the corsage mado of brown velvet cut quite plainly, and fitting to the figure ; on the opposite side, starting from tho shoulder seanwand arm hole, into which it was gathoied, was a full h:»lf front of cream silk spotted with brown. This crossed the figure at the wai-t, and, being continued, formed a kind of pannier over tho oppo<ite hip, finally losing itself in the back drapery. A simple style is to put asm ill threecornered velvet rever on one .side of the | bodice, leaving the other half untrirnmed. I Many of our new winter dresses will be laced up the back. I know that the figure is improved by this method of fastening ; but unless the services of a maid or accommodating friend can always be relied upon, I advise my readers to sacrifice appearance for the sake of convenience. I hear that instead of fur cloaks we are to have eider down handsomely covered and lined with quilted silk. Feathers rival fur as a means of retaining animal heat, and have tho advantage of being considerably lighter than fur, a desideratum which weakly people will noc be slow to admit. Among novelties in inexpensive jewellery is a wrought iron bracelet. The workmanship is exceedingly delicate, and the designs arc admirable. I see no reason why the most exigent women should disdain iron ornaments. It is pretension which vulg irises, and scarcity that creates value. Were irou as scarce as gold, probably its intrinsic worth would be equal to that of irold. Much has ben written and said of the famous " Kells embroidery," which Mrs Ernest Hart has successfully introduced in order to help distressed Irishwomen of certain districts where this industry is cariied on. The embroidery is worked in linen thread on linen material, and deuves its name from the "Book of ls>lls." I believe the principal designs for the work aro copied from the illuminated nu-?vih of the monks. The illuminations chiefly consist of strange imaginary animals, curious interlaced monograms, ribbons entwined and quaintly knotted, but flowers and leaves and other, as it would seem, more beautiful and natural devices woie seldom or never introduced. I think my readers may like to undertake "Kells embroidery" on their own account, and I shall be pleased to recommend a little manual which I believe gives complete instruction for the work, anil contains vorious illustrations, that would greatly assist a learner. Among other illustrated designs is the " Runic cable," which make 3 very very pretty stripes for the backs of chairs or curtains. It is worked in one shade in dirning stitch, the stitches being so taken at regular intervals that bars of the material are thrown up. It looks well worked in terra cotta and dull green, with outlines in daik blue. Thoie aro to be had charm iug designs ford'oyleys, dresses, table and tea cloths, and sideboard cloths, and for many other articles too numerous to mention here. The execution is simple and the effective, and it has this advantage, that it is lasting. Both the groundwork and embroidery cotton are pure linen, which wo all know is so durable that it will last for centuries if carefully treated. The little pamphlet which gives careful directions for t)\'\6 new embroidery and other dosigns for useful and fashionable needlework is ifisued monthly at the low price of 2d. I often see it on the counters of the besfc fancy workshops, and kuow many charming pieces of work are executed by means of the directions «riven in "The Fancy Work Biskot."

Tin: sea serpent liir has resumed his usual summer saunter along the coa>t. The cool weather has mide him late in stirtin^, but he is off now, and his Hr^t lie i-> 100 feet long. " A svom \n proposes to go over the Niagara whirlpool m a, lubber big." She will succeed. A wonnn who is lightheaded enough to seiioiisly entertain such an idea is in no danger of sinking. Ar a brie k-brac dealer's. "Oh, what a delicious little vaso ! It is \ cry old, isn't it?" " No, madam, it was mado recently. " " Ah, what i\ pity ! It is so beautiful !''