RAMBLES THROUGH THE LAKE COUNTRY ON HORSEBACK. NO. VI.

Waikato Times, Volume XXVI, Issue 2176, 19 June 1886, Page 2 (Supplement)

RAMBLES THROUGH THE LAKE COUNTRY ON HORSEBACK. NO. VI.

Trajrel, where you will through the lefttrth and breadth' of N«# Zealand $ travorso hrgo citiei; pa*H through provincial towns, and wander amongst the villtiifCH nnd hamletrtof advancing settleincntß in tho country, and you will, if you nre a tnnn of observation, nut fail to be impressed with the abounding proof of the remarkable fecundity of tho Brititth people. Frequently your • path may be leading you through primitive forest, or -wide-spread desolate broken country, when, suddenly, and where yon leant pxpeot it, your ears nre asMsiled with the lusty shouts and merry voices of young children, and you emerge upon the wooden tenements and olearingn of one or two families far removed from the rest of civilisation. What troops of robust, nplendid looking boyn and girl* are met with everywhere ! If the Anglo-Israel theory can be established, this prolifioneiis of our people forms one of their strong points as evidence of the fulfilment of the Divine blessing that the reed of Jacob should booorae more numerous than the stars in the firmament, and should fill all t-ho desolate placed of the earth. The Government, with true paternal care, have erected schools and granted facilities for the education of this vast juvenile population in almost every nook and corner with a liberality almost excessive. Well, this preamble brings me back to Tapuaeharnru, on the shores of Lake Taapo. Though the British settlers are not very .numerous, yet there is a considerable proportion of children of all ages in the place. These young people are growing up in ignorance and want of discipline, because, strange to say, there is no Government school provided for them. Some time ago one was established in the building* now devoted to service of the Post and Telegraph Department, but for some reason or other it was abandoned; yet, I am free to assert that fully thirty children can be found in the settlement capable of attending school. There is negligence existing somewhere, evidently. There is no church or place of worship of any sort ; but I was seriously assured the people did not " hanker* after any (to use au Americanism). Tho reason given for thin, apparently irreverent feeling, wns that they all foregathered very nicely to* gether as they are, bat if they introduced churches amongst them their present peace and harmony would be dispelled and be succeeded by discord »nd jealousies. Is not this a libel on our Christanity, or it is an exemplification, on a small scale, of Christ's declaration that he did not bring Peace into the world, but a Sword ? Be it what it may, ■ we found this small frontier community on orderly and wellbehaved one. We reoeived permission from Major Soannell to tarn oar horses for the night into the Government paddock in which the redoubt is situated. Thin enclosure had been ploughed and sown, but the grass had cone up very poorly, on the barren pumioe noil. Such as it was, we were glad of the run for there is no pasturage to be found at Taupo, except at Lofley'rt Glen, which I will presently describe. I awoke early next morning, and drawing up the blind looked out of the window in time to catch sight of tho sun rise on the snowclad cone of Ruapehu. The base of the mountains, together with thesnrroun din hills, was hid by a line of thick creamy clouds floating tastily across the foreground, but above them shone the lofty peak, bathed in fresh roseate tints, like asses from the lips of Aurora, reflected from fast rising rays of the orb of day, Over the quiet bosom of the lake masses of thick fog rose and fell, with the sway of a gentle morning breeze, like a living ethereal essence. The air felt crisply cool and exhilarating. I was in the enjoyment of the scene and becoming poetical, when my thoughts were recalled to things of the earth, earthy, by seeing Mr Perrott passing along the road with a face considerably elongated with evident anxiety and trouble. Pushing up the sash I hailed him. " Halloa ! You are np early. What is the matter ?" "Why, hang it! All the horses have got out of the paddock and have gone," he replied, dolefully. Here was an embarrassment; but, I felt personally and perhaps selfishly cheered by Perrott adding that my staid old Rosinante was quietly standing near thf> stable door. His fidelity, however, met with poor reward, for I lent him to Perrott to go in search of his stray ones, and he rode him a distance of 12 or 14 miles without coming aoross them. Main, howevor, set off on foot and found the two hack* in a gully, six miles from Taupo ; but the pack-home was nowhere to be seen. We heard afterwards that a man wan met on the road to Napier, riding a hone answering to tho description of tho missing Joey, and an a bridle and stirrup-irons were also found missing, we concluded a theft had been committed during the night by some individual auxiom to travel to Napier faster than his own lops could carry him. Eventually, Perrott received information that the missing horse was running on the plains at Taupo, and was offered a pound for him. Joey had at the outset entered upon th* jouruey with decided reluctance, and he particularly objected to the pack -saddle. It was, therefore, clear he had resolved to throw off the yoke, and escape to the freedom of the boundless prairie. The geysers, mud. Holes and hot «nrtngs are to be found abbu^ a, mite to the left of Tapuaeharuru, and %re reached by a broad path formed" by the Government. The Crow's Nest, geyser, is close to the edge of fide Waikato river, and below the high. bank. It is a formation of silica, abbM «|* feet in height, and hollow as a cup. wjnects a column of hot wa^r to a considerable height every few minutes when \ti) qtate of activity, but owing to the unusually low state of the river, it had nof been in play for nearly twelve months. The Witches' Cauldron was the next spot of note, and is a weird-looking affair. It is a large square hole at the base of a perpendicular bank of rock, and is approached through ti.tree scrub oh a slippery bank of red-ochre and pipe-clay. It ejects intermittently, with a loud splash and splutter, boiling water from ! the mysterious interior of the earth, pro- ! oisely, like the valve in a steamers' side. Above this, on the higher ground, is a field of active mud-holes and porridge-pots, amongst which it is necessary to step with caution owing to the treacherous ground. Numbers of active and extinct steam holes and cauldrons exist in the gullies and broken ground beyond this field, many of them being very large. One of these, like a gigantic exhaust pipe, sends forth a volume of steam, with a dull roar, and is very similar to the devil* steam-pipe at Rotomahana. Immediately beyond these natural wonders the road dips into a narrow sunken valley, wherein is situated Lofley's Glen, an unexpected surprise and source of pleasurable delight to the beholder. The hand of man has here a proof of its magic power, tho desolation of the wilderness being literally transformed into an Edenic garden of beauty. This charming little spot (the native name of it is Tapupaknan), is a long narrow vale, about a hundred and fifty yards wide, hidden in from the surrounding country between steep perpendicular banks. It is an old watercourse, cut away by the action of high floods rushing down to the Waikato 'River near by. There are about fifty acre* of rich alluvial soil, which, when Mr Lofley first settled there twelve years ago, was a deep mprass. The land has been thoroughly drained, and divided into small enclosures, green with rich meadow grass. Bluegums, poplars, conifers, willows, and numerous other ornamental trees and shrubs have been planted, And are grow

ing luxuriantly in a most picturesque manner all over the glen. Fruit trees, •uch as apple, plum, hazel, grape-vines. Another varieties arc in healthy growth and bowing. The vegetable gardens are plilntjfjttlly .stocked with necessaries for the 1 jUtohen. Besides these comfort*, the'rnstty picture it made perfect with a few milcli cow*, pigt and poultry. A complete ideal of the happy rural state, removed far away from the turmoil, caret, and, fevers of the overcrowded city. The house' it not a Urge or pretrtitfous one. but affords accommodation for a-few visitor*, nnd i* surrounded with on air of rustic simplicity. Scattered beneath the umbrageous foliage of a small plantation are several detached little building*, pleasantly furnished and prepared for the use of partiea who desire •till greater seclusion and privacy, and a* reading .and amoking rooms. The stable* are close at hand, with good pasturage in the paddocks. When one find* himself iv thin lovely little corner, hi* aenses softeued and enchanted by the seductive balm and quiet of the prospect around him, the feolintr steals over him to remain thore and rest. All thoughts of the world beyond are banished for ' the nonce, and one yields himself to the/ blissful enjoyment of ihe . dolce far niente. Then the baths ! What a turnmum bonum of delight do we find in them ! The head of the valley branohes off into two smaller gnllies. Down one runs a stream of hot water, and down the other a rivulet of cold water. The two streams form a junction near the cottage, and at their confluence Mr Lofley formed two swimming baths divided from each other by a wooden partition. . These baths-are covered over with a roof made of rapu, clothed with clusters of creeping plants, and casting a deep qh.ade «n the water beneath. A dre>sing.rpom,, also of rapu, adjoins. ' When the bather first enter* the bath he finds himself '°'in water of a mixed temperature. The upper part of his body is io,,_ » flow of great warmth, whilst bis legwiiro in the regions of cold. He then strikes out and enter* the hot bath, whioh had a temperature of about 108*. After npbrting about there for a while, he will jump over the partition and plunge into the cold bath, whioh will ponetrate to his marrow by the sudden con trust. He will then iwim down with the stream, enter the confluence of the two waters and pasi down to a small waterfall. Then if he jumps into the basin it forms and sits below the fall, allowing the warm water to pour itself over him, ho will feel sensations which are the acme of the charms of ablutions. There is nothing to excel it. There is a detached building near the end of the hot stream, called the Invalid's Boom, and fitted up for the use of rheumatic sufferer*. A clonet is built over a stream hole, where the patient can shut himself in and obtain a vapour bath, and from that pass across to another containing a hot water bath. The curative qualities of these baths aro very great, and great benefits have been derived from them. At the head of the valley in another bathing" house and hot springs, which are largly impregnated with sulpher carbonate of nod* and alum. There is also a pond filled with golden carp. Such is this fairy-like little spot, and if the visitor walks to the top of the banks overlooking the valley, he will find the view between very charming. There are varieties of moss, lichen, ferns and lycopodium which with the colourings of the foliage, form a beautiful combination. The properity is leased from the Crown, and Mr Lofley, to whose labour and industry the change i* due, has till now held in lease. ■ He i* an old British bluejacket, who served through some of native wars, and was at the disastrous Crate Pa. When I first caught sight of him, with a I Turkish fez on his head, bronzed face and long fierce moustashe, I thought he was the facsimile of a Bashi-Bazouk. He haft the rolling, elastic gait of the seaman, is powerfully built, and in his time, must have been a fine specimen of the fearless tar. He has now sold his interest in the place t* Mr Joshua, of Napier, who hus rechristened it the Taupo Sanatorium, an.d contemplates erecting increased accommodation, and making many improvement*. He intends applying- for a license for hi* house, in order to meet the wants of every class of tourist*. A lawn tennis court is also proposed. As Mr Joshua possesses the capital, I hare no doubt this will become one of the most favourite resorts in New Zealand. I can imagine no more suitable retreat for newlywedded couples wherein to spend n quiet honeymoon, lost in the joys of the spring time of their unalloyed love and away from tho eyes of the world. Mr Joshua brought hi* wife some few weeks before a complete oripple. She is a nne-knking ' woman, but bad lost the use of her limbs after a severe attack of fever. By the end of a month! she was able to walk with the aid of crutches, and at the time of my visit, was improving so rapidly thai she was speaking with animation of picnics and riding excursions. In her : was a striking demonstration of the healing power* of these splendid baths. Mr Joshua is a great acquisition to Taupo, and every encouragement, should be given him in his enterprise, especially by the. Government in the terms ot his tenure. This is a really wonderful region and' almost unknown. The whole of the streams, hot and cold, around Tapnaeharuru, spring from Tauhara, the friendless. | Ther< are numbers of spring*, and some large pools, whioh would form ' the most extensive natural swimming baths in New Zealand. The benefits to suffering- mankind, have only to be become widely circulated, when, under the supervision of conatituted authorities, and increased facilities for travel, this central portion of the North Island will become also famous, and will attract a steady influx of visitors of all sorts and conditions. Mr Loner, though blunt in his manners, is very chatty and well-informsd. H« was evidently versed in Holy Writ, and could quote many striking- passages. It wan from him I first learned that "the well known saw, " to escape by the skin of on»'a teeth," is of Biblical origin, and was first spoken by the prophet Job, (chap, xix., rer*e 20.) During the day two young gentlemen arlved on horseback. They had been doing the country south of Taupo; they had crossed the Motumotu plain (called a desert by Mr Kerry Nicolls), and h'aa come round Rnapehu and through Tokaanu. One was a nephew of the hon. 6. M. Waterhouse, formerly Premier of the colony, whose run in Hawke'n Bay he was managing; ; the other was hia friend Mr Gowdy. Daring onr stay we received much kindness and attention from everyone at Taupo, who treated us with uniform i civility very pleasant to recall to memory. When Saturday morning 1 ca,me the weather was foggy and a drizzling rain was falling, but we took our departure, intending to make a diversion to the Huka Falls on our way north again. After we crossed the Waikato Bridge we took a sharp tnrn to the right by a path whioh followed the course of the river. We encountered some difficulties in our path, havinir sometimes to cross deep gullies, or pick our way down steep places, where we had to dismount and lead onr horses. Along the sida of the fine river were occasional flats and patches of good alluvial soil. After the space of an hour and "when we had travelled about three milei w« came to the first rapids; and a mile further on. to the second rapids immediately preceding the falls, whose loud roar we heard. (To be continued).

The Queen has been pleased to appoint the Rev. Dr. James MacGregor, of St. Cuthbert's, Edinburgh, to be one of her chaplains, in the place of the late Principal Tulloch. Thb Qneon's bounty of £3 has been received by Mrs Court, of Sandgate, wife of a drill instructor, who recently gave birth to triplets. The infants are - all thriving,