RAMBLES THROUGH THE LAKE COUNTRY ON HORSEBACK. No. II.

Waikato Times, Volume XXVI, Issue 2155, 1 May 1886, Page 2 (Supplement)

RAMBLES THROUGH THE LAKE COUNTRY ON HORSEBACK. No. 11.

Thkrk is nothing- prepossessing nbout Oxford or its surroundings. It lies on tho ridge of a gentle declivity at the foot of the JH^'Mlh beyond Te Ttau. The* country encircling it it blank and uninviting to a degree, and as it has no population beyond what is necossary to manage its hotel, two branch -«-.. . stores, ainithy and stable*, we can conclude „. it is a burlesque on the proud name it bears. "L The railway tons ft few hundred yards below it, and it it now the stage at which tourists for the Lake< take the coach. The station and other buildings required by the necessities of the railway service are not altogether completed yet, and the line was •• ' strewn with large quantities of material, and all manner of impedimenta in use by 1 the contractor, Mr D. Fallon, who is energetically pu*hing on the next section of fourteen miles to Lichfield, which he expects to hand over to the Government in the course of another month. It is fortun- I ' - »te for the tourists that they find at this . dreary place a comfortable hotel to atop at ' for a night, and a genial host to cater to i< '• their creature comforts. Mr Rose, the „ landlord, indeed found his house too cir- ' cmnscribed for the increased demands on his resources, and he has several additional ) bedrooms in process of erection. Facing , .Oxford to the left, and situated on rising' •ground* is the homestead of Messrs Maclean and Co., ou the Okoroire Block, where r . there is a large patch of green oats in cultivation. Iniroediately in front, at a *' distance of about seven miles, the - : Fatetere ranges rise to a consider- | able elevation, and run from right ••'" ' to left for a great length, becoming, in fact, ''' theTe Aroha range as they proceed to- , r wards the north. The appearance of these ,; mountain*, seen from Oxford, is somewhat •ingular. The summit is crowned with heavy bush, running down the sides to a lower elevation, which is then lined with ' parallel band*? of terraces, and these again at a lower level as far as the foot of the range are succeeded by a long linn of rounded hillocks and lowlands, stretching away as far as the eye can see in a confused, disordered mots. After leaving Oxford the road leads across the intervening valley towards the native settlement of Tapapa, situated on the rising lands at the base of , the Patotere range*. Soon after leaving Oxford behind me, I was overtaken by a young Maori woman on horseback, riding straddle in a milliner, which, though inelegant in 1 ' appearance, was no doubt comfortable to her, and she also came from Cambridge. When I say I was overtaken by her, I am not exactly correct, for she maintained a respectable distance between us. But it occurred to me that the company of this dusky lady t for x few miles would break the monotony of my solitude, therefore I reined up, and, turning round, waited for her to come up.' She, however, immediately came to a halt, and on my inviting her to •'haere mai," so that we could go on to- ' gether as far as Tapapa, she shook her head and said, "No, me frighten, you hnere." After some persuasion on my part and hesitation on hers, she gained coufidence and came on, and we proceeded together, chatting merrily, this dark-skinued daughter of a savage race (who was by no means bad looking) displaying a dogroe of coquetry which proved to me that the same nature will be found akin in the feminine composition, whether it be met in Bolgravia or in the wilds of Maoridom. We met two parties of natives who stared at us as we passed, and as we neared Tapapa we encountered a family of Maoris encamped in an enclosure where they evidently were about to begin a cultivation. As these were friends of hers, my short lived companion joined them and I proceeded on my journey alone. Tho road now led up past Tapapa settlement, up the range through a light bush and past some heavy sidings, on tho face of which, the .übiquitous British snob, according to the late Andrew Ualliday, had immortalised - himself by carving his name or initials in a variety of characters. On reaching the summit the road stretches along on a level plain bordered by totaraand rimu bush for a considerable distanco before making the descent on the south side. Looking back, a far reaching vista of lough looking country was displayed. Maungatuutari, Mnnngakawa and Taotaoroa rose far away enveloped in heavy banks of dark clouds, though rifts of which streams of sunlight poured out and bathed those mountains sides in a glorious profusion of Jicrhfc and shade. Tho valley intervening appeared like a vastaccumulation of round hills and slopes. In the direction in which I was journeying the weathev looked louring and heavy and filled me with anticipations of a soaking before my destination, Rotorua, was reached. "On the level of this range, two newly erected whares, rough fences and burnt patches indicated that soma settlers had here commenced the conquest of the wilderness. The^e, I loomed afterwards, are Mos*m Baker and Balkin, from Hautapu, who have taken up land there from the Thames Valley Land Settlement Company. The soil on the t >p <>f the range appears to be very good, but below the bush, where the company have been doing a large • amount of burning off, the country is composed of deep ravines and stupendous j precipices, in. some places covered with impenetrable bush. - On making the descent of the mountain range, the road enters a dense forest and continues through it for a distance of about twelve miles before coming into the open-country again. Sometimes it takes a steep grade, then leads along oh a straight line on the top of a spur to fall away again further on. It was here Mr Froude made such animadversions on the apparent wilful waste of timber which he saw lying on both sides of the road. We all know, however, that in taking a line of road through a bush it is absolutely necessary to fell the trees to a width of one chain on either side, in order to keep the centre clear for traffic. If that were not done we could not have good roads through the bush, and the destruction of useful timber in this way is more imaginative than real. When I passed through the rftad was very heavy with rain and recent repairs, consequently, my progress was slow, and the shades of night bad begun to fall long before I reached the open. By that ti me the clouds had lowered heavily, and a drizzling rain commenced to make its descent upon us. Through the low fern-clad hills between which the road now wound, I caught sight of a long faint streak of glimmering light far ahead, and immediately below dark masses of clouds, which I surmised was Lake Rotorua lying below me in the distance. After a time the road left the hills and went over a long extent of scrub flat, but as it was intensely dark and I could barely distinguish the road line I proceeded straight onwards towards the lake, in tho direction of which a light now and then showed itself, and which I vainly imagined proceeded from some dwelling. The light finally disappeared, and as I went on I came to a cross road which put me in a quandary ; but aware that the lake was before me I went straight on for some distance till I came to a Maori fence. My horse was now showing signs of fatigue, and I myself was in want of my dinner, so I cooeyed, in the hope of bringing someone to direct me towards the township. But the night was still and calm, except for the whinnying of a foal which had lost its dam and came running up to me. I could distinguish the reflection in the waters of the lake, but no signs of any habitation, so I turned back and came again to tho cross road where I dismounted and struck a match to find out in what direction the wheel marks went. I now sstw on my right a light which 'appeared to come from a large building on a bit of high ground. I therefore led my horse in that direction, coooying occasionally. Between me and the lake I saw, off and on, moving lights like lanterns, but as I received no response to my shouts, I concluded they were phenomena peculiar to this supernatural region. Having proceeded for fully a mile and over the brow of a low hill, I found the light I had been steering for had entirely disappeared, like a will-o'-the-wisp. I felt convinced I was not on the right so again retraced my steps, cooeying lustily, for I was now about ten . o'clock, and the prospect of a dinner and „ warm bed seemed to be getting very remote. Still those unsympathetic moving lights near tho lake, sometimes coming towards me, then retreating and suddenly vanishing. At one time, just as I had given a loud cooey, a blue light, like a Roman candle, shot up out of the scrub a few yards from me, as though some mischievous imp of darkness was shooting at me in mockery. I now went straight on, following the road towards the opposite end of the lnke until I came to a bridge. As I approached I discerned six men sitting on the hand-rails of tho bridge, three on oither aide, and who, ito. the dim shadowy light, Beamed to be waiting, ghostlike and motionless for me to pass thorn. At the moment, I took them to be Maoris; but wh^r they should have posted themselves up in that

grim fantastical fashion I could not imagine-; but, putting a bold front on, I wont on, and was on the jx>int of bringing out ft cheery " tenakoo," whon I discovered they were only the upright girdenfof th# bridge ! I walked on for another mile, and still no town appeared, and I was agaitt n bout to turn back when I saw* bright light a Hhort distance in my front, which I soon found wan a reality, and that it pro- ; ceoded from a email tent, in which a couula of carters were camped for the night. From them I learned that I was on the i itjht road and two miles from Ohinemutu. Having refreshed inysolf with some delicious frc«h water and bread and jam which, " with hospitable thoughts intent," they offered me, I pushed on, and after a weary time began to emerge on an atmosphere of sulphurous vapour, strange sounds, hot air, noiso of hissing steam and the bubbling of boiling waters around and before me, and beneath my feet. We came to a bridge spanning a stream of boiling water and emitting clouds of white steam which rose in the d»rknes* in weird and uncanny folds and was impregnated with a strong aroma of sulphur. My horse strongly objected to go through this ghostlike phantasmagoria and required a deal of urging before he advanced ; then, when we went through, it seemed as though we had crossed the confines of Hades. We had, however, arrived at Ohinemutu, and were soon under the friendly shelter of Mrs Morrisons Rotorua Hotel, where, though it was past eleven o'clock, the inward cravings of both man an beast were amply attended to, and to which we did full justice after a journey of sixty miles and a space of time equal to fifteen hours. The cross road which put me adrift for three loftg hours on a rainy dark night was the Tauranga main road, and ie is certainly a great oversight that no finger-pott ha* been placed at the junction of the two lines to direct travellers and strangers to those parti what course they should take. This omission should be provided for without delay. Ohinemutu is the name of the native township built on highground above the margin of Lake Rotorua. The new township established by the Government, and c tiled Rotorua, is situated on a plain about half a mile beyond Ohinemutu and in the region of the sulphur beds and springs. There are several stores, butchers' and bakers' shops and four large roomy hotels and boarding houses at Ohineinntu, all of which are native leasehold properties. Lake House and Kellys Hotel are both superior places of accommodation and equal to any hotel in Auckland. The Uotorua Hotel is also a very comfortable j hostelry, very ordorly, aud possesses several cosy private sitting-rooms; and in Mrs Morrison, the proprietress, frequenters of that house will find a very kind and excellent friend and a good manager. Then there is the Carltoq^ Club, an unlicensed house, which has lately passed from Mr Wilkinson into the hands of Mr McCannon, and is a roomy, quiet boarding-house, commanding a fine view of the lake. On the flats between these buildings and the waterside are innumerable hot springs, cauldrons of boiling water and running calescent streams, of various degrees of temperature, and more or less impregnated > with sulphuric compound* and other minerals. Each of the hotels possesses itj own covered baths ; the one belonging to Mrs Morrison is a large basin and is of the same temperature and qualities as the famed Madame Rnchel's bath at the Sanatorium. The natives are constant frequenters of the springs, and from an early hour in the morning they can be seen, young and old of both sexes, filling the baths together, sitting in the water together in groups and abandoning themselves to the delight of the seducive waters and keeping up an incessant and animated chatter. Accordto their manners and notions they see no impropriety in this, and they perform their ablutions in a way that exhibits a sense of modesty without any tendency to pruriency. A noticeable featnie amongst them is that men, women and children all have a healthy appearance; their skin is clearer and they look cleaner than the generality of natives in other parts of this island. Some thirty odd years ago, a violent shock of uarthquako occurred here in the dead of tho night, which caused a portion of the village to subside suddenly into the lake, by which fully fifty natives perished. A few tall piles standing at the edge of the water are remains of the ill-fated pah, the former site of which is now a small bay of tepid water, in which the natives are fond of swimming about. There are a number of whares on the land adjoining, auiong.sfc which tiro a large wooden church with a square tower, and a long we.ither-board runanga house with a galvanised iron roof. The interior of the latter, the wharepuni, is formed of splendidly carved beams and rafters, as is also the exterior front. Facing the wharepuni is a tall flagstaff, also fantastically carved. A Land Court, presided over by Judge Clark, was then sitting, and was determining the individual titles to the land on which Ohinemutu stands. Near Kellys Hotel is a large* spring, the water of which is so impregnated and softened with soda that it is in general use for washing clothes and house linen. It in Undoubtedly a raoit accommodating stream, and w held in hipfh estimation by economical housewives and laundresses. The numbers and volume of steam jets and vapour ascending upwards from the earth in all directions, together with the smell of sulphur tainted air, lend a weird and uncanny appearance tp the prospect, in which the uneasy in conscience may feel they are obtaining an imitation in preparation for the future place of torments, which feeling becomes augmented as they penetrate into other quarters where they will behold still more gruesome sights. Lake Rotorua is an extensive sheet of water, and in good weather presents a very fine appearance. In the centre is the largo island of Mokoia, so famous in Maori story as the scene of the romance of Hinemoa and Tutanekai about three hundred years ago. Speaking of the latter playing the flute, the sounds of which fired Hiuemoa to swim across the lake to her lover, induced me to allude to the absence of any native musical instruments amongst the Maoris. Mr Dickson, clerk of the Native Lands Court, who is well versed in Maori lore, observed that be knew of the existence of only two kinds of instruments. One was the putamu, a flute with only three boles, and the other the kowau-wau, a horn made from the conch-shell ; but these were rarely seen now. Ohinemutu has quite lately been deprived of a valuable institution in the form of one of the Fourth Estate. The "Hot Lakes Chronicle" bad become defunct, together with its proprietor and editor, Mr Lechner, who had joined the great majority the week before my visit. Mentioning this tempts me to refer to a sad want in Rotorua, namely, a public school. There is no establishment of the kind, and as I observed a good few children of European parentage about the roads who are of ages when they should be under school discipline and training, it was surprising to me that no effort had been made, either by the parents or by the Government, to supply so important an element necessary for the future improvement and social status of the district. The Government township of Rotorua is showing signs of progress. The streets are in process of formation, with side-walks, to a width of two chains, and the trees, which have been planted with uniform regularity on both aides, are growing vigorously. There are besides the post office and other public offices or the numerous erections at the sanatorium, two stores quite recently put up, and the long range of buildings built by Mr Brent for a temperance hotel. The soil on which the town is situated is light and poor, consisting chiefly of fine pumice, but I was surprised to see what a profusion of bright flowers filled the beds of the well-kept and tastefully designed grounds at the sanatorium, and where bits of beautifully green and carefully trimmed lawn stand nut in clear relief. It was still more astonishing to observe the very fine kitchen garden at the back of the hospital, in which grow an abundance of vegetables of every description in the primes t condition. Great trouble, however, has been taken to make the soil capable of imparting such an unexpected growth, and bi«th Dr. Cinders and Mr Johnson, the Government agent, deserve great credit for tliß zeal and perseverance they have displayed in the determination to beautify and make pleasurable what was. till the p&keha put his hand on it, a bleak, barren wilderness. There can be no room fur doubting thut in the course of a few years Rotorua will develops into a pleasant town of considerable dimensions. Until such times at the spring? and baths and the wonders of the district sink into inactivity and everlasting extinction, which will not be in our day, them will be in them an uninterrupted source of wealth which will foster the growth of Rotorua. When the railway is completed the means of communication will be so much facilitated that the stream of \ isitors will increase tenfold from all parts of the world whither the fame of these wonderful regions will have

become more widespread. Businom will always bo healthy, owing to the amount of ready money in thn place, canted by fh* influx of tourists. I saw more gold in circulation here in the course of a few day* than I have seen in the Waikato for eighteen months put together. The Government an abont to expend a oonndcrnblo amount of monoy on public work*. First, it is intended to begin the terminal section of the railway at Rotorua, and Hccondly, they are carrying out a water works schotne to bring in a supply of pnre water from tho stream running throngh the gorge at the aide of Whakarowarewa, a di«tince nf three miles. The contract for the latter work has juit been let at 5 cost of £5000. (To be continued.)