Agriculture. FENCING ON THE FABM OR STATION.

Waikato Times, Volume XVIII, Issue 1556, 24 June 1882, Page 2 (Supplement)

Agriculture. FENCING ON THE FABM OR STATION.

BY AN OLD COLONIST.

There is no question concerning the necessity for fencing in connection with colonial agriculture, whether the occupation we are engaged in is grain-raising, or Block, or sheep-farming. And this is the fact, while it is still a point in dispute whether sheep are best and most profitable in fenced paddocks, or under the care of shepherds. The districts are very few indeed, and the surrounding conditions must differ very much from the ordinary run, where a man can get along as well without as with fenced. It is very safe to add that one of the first and most necessary operations for the improvement of land, is to have it fenced properly ; and that he makes a very serious mistake indeed, and one that may result in serious trials, if not failure, if fencing is not arranged for at the very outset of land occupation. The losses and disappointments arising, from this cause are amongst the most common and serious heard of in the colonies. And, when the circumstances under which we work ore taken into consideration, there is no room for surprise why fencing has become of such vital importance to the colonial agriculturists of all classes. The grass of the country is one of the most valuable privileges which fall to those who take up land. There are places, certainly, where, from the heavy character of the scrub or timber on the land, grass is not got until after clearing. But, in comparison with the grassed country, the other is of comparatively small extent; and even in places where it exists, it is very frequently found to be the more advantageous course to fence in the timber or scrub, and keep out of it the stock of neighbors. It is an erroneous idea that the timber country is of no value for stock. Better acquaintance with the scrub and tree vegetation of the colonies modifies this idea considerably; and many will recollect cases where, were it not for the pickings found by stock in the forest and scrubs during times of drought, the losses would have been vastly greater. It is not necessary to open the question here, whether the laws should not be so framed, that owners o£ stock should be compelled to keep their animals within their own fences ; and whether they should not be held responsible for tresspass, directly the boundary lines of the property of the owners were passed. The points named have led to disputes of a very exhausting and distressing nature ; to loss and to appeals to the law — Avhich very, very seldom affords the relief looked for from it. Experienced men know well that to secure the fullest benefits from their land — to prevent loss and disagreement with neighbors — it is necessary to fence. Hence the importance given to the operation. The cost, quality, material and description of fencing used in the colonies, varies almost as much as the ideas of those who fence. In no occupation on the farm can skill and judgment be brought to bear more effectually than j in fencing. A very great deal ought to depend upon the material available. Wire fencing is coming into much favor, and deservedly. But where the right sort of hard wood can be got convenient to the ground to be fenced in, it is doubtful if any better material is available. With good posts and rails, and, if necessary for sheep, with a few wires added, the very best, most solid and durable fences can be put up at from 3s. to 7s. per rod, according to location, timber, tfec. Ironbark, bloodwood, red and spotted gum, stringy bark, peppermint, tallow wood, pine and ironwood, are all in favor for fencing stuff in places where those timbeis abound. As a rule, it is better to purchase the stuff from experienced splitters, rather than either to send hired men, or for the owner of the land himself to go into the bush and split the stuff. The writer has seen much of this sort of work done, and can add, from experience, that it is bettor to pay even a stiflish price (and the ruling rates of posts and rails can soon be learned in any district), rather than attempt to got the stuff by inexperienced hands. Chock and Log Fiinck. — Where limber of straight giowth can be got, without much reference to its character, this style of fence can be put up quickly and effectively. The logs may be of any length, and, comparatively, of any thickness, so long as they are moveable. In building the fence, short pieces of log, the chocks, each about 3 or 4 feet long, are laid down on the giound, across the line to be fenced. The logs are laid along the line and upon the chocks. The latter may have to be notched io make tho logs lie solidly, but generally, they remain solid enough without notching. For cattle, three or four rows of logs, reaching a height of 4J or 5 feet, are necessary ; 8 £ feet is high enough for sheep, but for them the chocks, which regulate the space between the logs, should not be more than G inches. This fence may be calculated to cost from £20 to £35 per mile, According to the position and character of the timber, and estimating wages at £1 a week. Fire is a formidable enemy of chock and log fences, and, when bush fires are about, they should be guarded by burning the grass near to the fences, and, where practicable, opening plough furrows alongside of them. BiliiAuonu Fjsncu. — This is a modification of the other, but without the chocks. Heavy timber is necessary for it. First a line of logs is laid down along the line to be fenced, and upon the first line a second is to be laid, being notched or wedged, where necessary, to make thorn lie snug. The two tiers of logs should reach three feet in height. Then, to get on a top rail, cross logs from 4 to 8 !eot long, and each pair from 10 to 15 feet apart are set up, the legs crossing the logs. Into the fork of the crossed pieces, a lighter log is laid, the whole being of the standard height of 4.} feet. In thickly limbered country this fence costs from £18 to £30 a mile, and lasts for many years, fire being its greatest enemy, as in the former case. Stub or Loo and Bush Fence. — This is another suitable for timber country. Chocks are laid down for a foundation, and on them two heavy parallel logs are laid down. Between the logs the tops of the trees from which the logs were got are set slanting inwards. When well set up this fence is effective for both cattle and sheep. It requires looking after closely, and then, although the cheapest of all, stands many years. Snake Fence. — This is suitable where heavy timber is less plentiful, or not of a character to split well. The logs or saplings, each from 10 to 14 feet in length, are laid down in a zig-zag fashion crossing the line of fence. The butt end of each stick is made to cross and lie snug in the end of the other, and they are thus fixed on zig-zag until a height of some three feet is reached. Then cross-legs are set up in each angle, and a cap log is laid into them, thus gaining the regular height and tying the fence together. Basket Fence. — Where saplings abound, or stuff that runs out easily, but is not heavy enough for rails, can be got, the basket fence is put up cheaply and with good effect. Posts about 6 feet in height are driven or set in the ground, from 4 to 6 feet apart, and saplings or thin stuff are bent between them as in basket work. Where the posts are light, and the basket-stuff heavy in proportion, forked stakes are set against the posts to stay and steady the fence. DoubiiE Baid and Sapling Fence. — This also answers where thin, light stuff is available, and costs about tho same, say, from £12 to £20 a mile. Two posts are driven or set in, leaving a space of from 4 to 6 inches' between the two. Into the spaces the saplings are laid, and the posts are then tied tight with wire at the top, thus binding the fence. Bbush Fence. — Where scrubby trees are' plentiful this fence can be run along cheaply and quickly. Trees with tough, scrubby tops' are chosen and drawn upon the line of fence, the top of each tree being hauled close up to that of the one preceding, -the timber lying on top of each other. -For sheep yards and similar .purposes, and for dividing fences, where suitable, stuff is handy. This fence can, be laid along for from £5 to £10 ai%^f

Paling Fence. — To keep out wallabies, &c, something different from the foregoing is necessary. An effective close-piling fence is made by sinking posts 9 feet apart. Put on one top rail, and open a trench about 6 inches deep between the posts, set the bottom ends of the palings in the. trench, letting the tops rest against the rail. If stiff soil, well rammed against the palings, it is unnecessary to naU the palings. This fence costs from 12s. to 20s. per chain. But wire, applied in one form or other, is becoming the fencing material of colonists. In South Australia, in places where sheep are not straying about, and cattle are quiet, very light posts, driven in about 8 feet apart, and upon which from 8 to 6 wires are stretched, answer over immense areas of the wheat country ; the cost ranging from £10 to £25 a mile for labour and material. The best wire is the cheapest, not only in the end but at the commencement. It pays no one to put up rubbishing wire, and steel, at anything like fair, comparative rates, is better than iron wire. The material, whatever its quality, is sold by the hundredweight and ton. Prices vary according to the gauges. Nos. 6, 7, 8, and 9 are favorite sizes for sheep fences, and answer very well, with a top rail, for cattle and horses. Six wires of No. 6, with the posts a rod apart, make a good cattle and sheep fence, if spaced thus : — Lower wire 10 inches from the ground; first space, 4J inches; second, 4J inches ; third, 5 J inches ; fourth, 10 inches ; and the top space, 12 inches. Two wire bands, or stiffeners, at equal distances should connect all the wires in each panel, by being passed round each and then staked to the ground. The above distance is better than having posts placed 9 feet apart. This description of fence has been proved most effective on a large scale. Posts are bored with half the labor when placed in a gauged frame, and when the auger has a winch handle. A good "bush" strainer, for tightening up the wires in a fence, is a round piece of wood, three or four inches in diameter and three feet long. This is turned by a pin, worked in a hole, near each end. The wire is thus made to coil round the centre, and the power is quite sufficient. The posts ought to be two feet in the ground, and the straining-posts four feet, a foot in diameter, and twenty rods apart. Where sinking is necessary, a man can put down twenty-five holes a day in ordinary soils. The straining-post is secured by a stay resting on a notch in a block sunk in the gronnd ; the stay can be moved forward as the work proceeds, two being used alternately. The wire should be so tough as to coil closely round itself without breaking or giving way. The prevailing opinion is, that the posts last longer if placed "butt up." The fence mentioned may be put up, under ordinary circumstances, at a total cost of from £65 to £80 a mile. Where the soil is suitable for using post-hole diggers, or the earth auger, the work can be done for less.