A Flying Visit from Sydney to Northern Queensland.

Waikato Times, Volume X, Issue 570, 15 January 1876, Page 1 (Supplement)

A Flying Visit from Sydney to Northern Queensland.

{Continued from Supplemmf for January Ist) The evening of leaving Maryborough we called in at a place called BunderW. merely to discharge a small quantity oY cargo. It took us considerably out of our course and delayed our arrival at Eockhampton some hours. CurioMiy led many of us to stroll ashore. Bunderbere turned out to be a very new settlement indeed, and consisted of a lot of cottages and stores shot down promiscuously like, here and there, so that the main street became at night a sort of mixed up arrangement very difficult to analise. The inhabitants seemed to live exclusively in hotel?, at least we were led to believe so frOEa these buildings bein? the only ones ▼/here life and light were visible. But this erroneous conclusion was accounted for in tho subsequent discovery of a theatre (a large-sized wooden cottage minus the partitions) where a local dramatic and musical entertainment engrossed the attention of the entire population Three shillings, collected inside, was the mystic solution to an entreo. Being late the 'reserved seats' were all occupied, but a position at the rear of the audience was available. This afforded us a clear and unobstructed view of unkempt heads and shapeless felts; for the audience hereabouts considered standing the correct thing, though there were forms enough and to spare. They stood, therefore, te • man, despising the effeminate method o1 sitting as being unworthy of the sternei ■ex ; so the women stood also. A ' laughable farce' was on, which the audience evidently appreciated— individually and collectively. Afterwards came an ' interval of 10 minutes,' the signal for a stampede to an adjacent • pub, 1 such as didn't join in it indulging in refreshments in the shape of pipes of tobacco. Tableau—a scene in the clouds— not in the programme. Borne music and singing followed of a strictly amateur nature, and a verdict of first-rate closed satisfactorily the entertainment. After this the town returned to its hearths and its homes, and Bunderberg was itself again. As for us, we went back to our ship and turned m, and when, on the following morning, we looked for Bunderberg, lo ! we were fai out at sea, ploughing the ocean with a strong and favourable breeze. At midnight we steamed into another port, Gladstone, and again we exercised our limbs ashore. Gladstone is the seaport town ol the district of Port Curtis, and Port Curtis made itself known about 15 years ago as an Eldorado for the gold-digging community of Australia. Its reported auriferous nature attracted a large population north, and directed the attention of prospectors more than ever to this part of Queensland. Gladstone is situated on a beautiful harbour completely landlocked by mountains. Unfortunately, being night, a good deal of the scenery was lost to us, but the brilliancy of the moon enabled us to form an idea of what it was, and afforded an opportunity of viewing the town — a couple of fine jetties form admirable landing places and connect themselves with the main street, a well-made thoroughfare traversing a steep hill and losing itself in the distant bush. The commodious stores and substantial houses visible told of former prosperity, but times had changed, and active business was a thing of the past. The people were hopeful, however, and were then agitating strongly for certain harbour improvements. Advantage was taken of the presence of the Queensland engineer of harbours and rivers, who happened to be aboard our vei»el, to wait on him in formal deputation, and a promise was extracted that he would visit them on his return from Rockhampton, The elevated position of Gladstone and its natural beauty of scenery impressed me with the belief that it would be a most desirable locality for health and comfort, but this belief was much shaken on learning that in the summer months a species of insect called a sand fly, predominates to the extent of bemg an intolerable nuisance. This iniect appears to enter tbe skin through the pores, and when there causes an irritation of a most maddening description. It is necessary then to cut into the flesh to dislodge it, a very painful operation. Before morning we were again on our journey northward, skimming over the trackless ocean with a sea smooth as glass, and with no sound save that of the ever-revolving paddle wheels, or the occasional chiming of the hour-bell. Shortly after daybreak our steamer entered Keppel Bay and then the Fitzroy Riper, a noble stream, the mouth of which is lomo 40 miles from Bockhampton. The Bockhamptonites are justly proud of this river, and not without a cause, for its magnificent proportions render it second to none in Australia. The extreme width hereabouts is nearly two miles, but it narrows as it approaches the town. The scenery is charming the whole way up, heightened by banks of emerald verdure. After winding round a magnificent range of mountains, we come suddenly upon Rockhampton. That which at once strikes the eye of a stranger is the long and substantially built promenade and carriage road which skirts the nrer and affords the residents at all times a delightful opportunity for a stroll or a drive by daylight or moonlight. From this they can watch the various steamers and crafts discharge their passengers and cargoes on to a commodious wharf beneath, or gaze on the grand mountain scenery which towers loftily above the tbickly timbered bash on the opposite bank. The arrival of a steamer in these parts is an event, if we may judge from the crowd of people whom curiosity and other causes had attracted to the spot, notwithstanding it was Sunday and during church hours. A short time sufficed to domicile us in very comfortable quarters — a large and pleasantly situated hotel overlooking the the river. And here I may casually remark that the hotels of Rockhampton are a credit to Northern Queensland, and there are some which, from their completeness, comfort, and general management, put Brisbane completely to the blush. Hockhampton ia the largest and most substantially built town in the northern territorry, and has a population of about 12,000. So rapid has been its progress that it is sc&rccly possible to believe its growth limited to but 15 years. In addition to the excellent wharfage I have ■rationed, it can boast of fine wide streets,

handsome public buildings, commediou! and elegant stops, an imposing railway station (with a line of '15 miles), twt daily newspapers, and a supply of gas The town i«s completely confined to the southern side of the river, and has for its northern aspect the splendid rnnge of mountains before referred to. Though the winter season was on we found the heat most oppressive, and could make seme allowance for the number of poor perspiring souls who took constant refreshers at mine host's tempting bar. Every description of tropical fruit was displayed in the shop windows, the product of the surrounding country, Tfce mosquitos were very troublesome, and soon becfitne very familiar. Up the river Were to be seen alligators, and in the bush, snakes ; but as I neither went up the river nor into the bush I did not encounter any of these ugly customers. A party of black fellows had pitched a camp somewhere over the water, and these made dnily visits to the town. An attempt is made to utilize the natives as servants, but with what success I am unaware. Their actions were not calculated to impress one favourably as te their activity. Bockhamjton is about 430 miles from Brisbane, and is the seaport of a largo wool-growing, and goldproducing district. It also does a large export in preserved meats. The great prosperity it once enjoyed has been considerably modified of late by an exodus of miners and others to ports farther north. My next destination was the great sugnrgrowing district of Mackay, some 250 miles up the coast, undoubtedly one of the wealthiest and most interesting areas of country in Queensland. Embarking on board a small steamer we soon found ourselves cruising amongst innumerable islands of all imaginary shapes and sizes, and I can only liken this portion of my journey to traversing a large lake. These islands dot the ocean a few miles from land nearly the whole distance between Keppel Bay and Bowen, and from being frequently covered with a species of lofty pine trees impart a very picturesque aspect to the scene. The sea being perfectly smooth made it the more enjoyable. Opr vessel was advertised to call at a place called Broadsound, so we went off our course to discharge a few tons of cargo there. If we had any curiosity to see Breadsound it was soon dispelled on nearing the wharf. We had passed up a river or large-sized creek for nearly a mile, enclosed by a low-lying tract of the most uninteresting country imaginable. Now we faced a great wooden shed, the only tenement visible on shore Here »nd there sundry pieces of machinery and logs of timber, a small cutter hauled on shore, and a couple of enormous buoys undergoing the pvocess of painting. The only sign of life, some half a dozen lumpers in readiness to discbarge the cargo, aDd about as many wretched-looking hoases attached to a lorry. Not a breath of wind stirred the heated atmosphere, rendered more intense by the blinding reflection from the water. In the cabin the heat, the smell, and the lnosquitos all combined to force one on deck. 'Is this outlandish-looking place, Broadsound ?' was the natural enquiry. 'Oh I dear no, this is only St Lawrence, the Port of Broad sound,' was the response, ' but you can easily reach the township if you wish, it is only four miles away and a fair walking road.' ' Thanks, but considering the heat we would rather ride.' This latter remark seemed so good a joke to our informant that he laughed outright. ' Would we prefer a carriage and pair, a )uggy, or a wheelbarrow?' The joke became apparent to us also now, and we awoke to the fact that the last named conveyance was of all others the most likely to be got. On this we ' smiled a sort of sickly smile ' as Bret Harte says, •nd contented ourselves with picturing the township of Broadsound in our mind's eye, hnd a pleasant picture we made oi it, after the port. We were not altogether surprised to hear that fever and a^ue prevailed there largely. So we hung about till lunch time, and then dozed resignedly on the saloon cushions. Sliortly we became conscious of something wrong about the ship, everything seemed lop-sided, — table, seats, flooring, everything but the lamps and swing tr&ys —there was snch a general absence of equilibrium below that we weat on deck. One glance revealed it all, the tide was out and we were aground — the river had dwindled into a narrow stream, and we lay over on our beam ends many feet below the river'i banks. All around was mud, thick slimy black mud, with a {ew rushes cropning up here and there that only saw dnylight at low water. Yet by some skilful process of fixing, the operation of discharging was still going on, as though the vessel remained flush with the shore. By the return of the tide the requisite quantity of cargo waa landed, and we were at liberty to depart. We did so, right glad to say * Goodbye ' to such an inhospitable region. Two more days pleasant cruising among the islands, during which we experienced a real *"^ <il thunderstorm, and then we sight the naht of Flat-top Island, where we anchor for the night before entering the Mackay river. An hour after weighing anchor next morning, brings us in view of the town of Mackay, the unpretentious appearance of which presents an ' unfavourable contrast with that of the approach to Eockhampton. Nor are we more impressed on landing. There is no solidity about the place. The houses are mostly of wood, one story, and void of anything approaching external ornamentation, indeed a coat of paint would not have been amisi in many case?. It it difficult to realise the fact that we are in the business part of so wealthy a district — there is nothing to show for it, so far. The inhabitants look rough enough, and appear an easy-going lot of people. We are invited to enter a hotel — we respond — mutual introductions follow — we acquire some insight into the male portion of Mackay society, and leave with such errors corrected as a dofic iencv of judgment had led us into on binding. Like other Queensland towns the hotels are an institution. Business men meet there, smoke there, drink there and trade there. They are alike a rendezvous for planters, squatters, bankers and merchants — a sort ot exchange or hall of commerce, where the current topics of the day are m everybody's mouth. The Mackay people are a people who improve on acquaintance, a iid a few days amongst them subdue* any unfavourable opinion you may have iormed of their town. You find the gen*

tloman under the rough exterior, and hospitality under the humble roof. On fine afternoons the town is rendered , almost gay by the presence of many ! fair equestriennes who visit it in parties ] from neighbouring plantations. By decrees you discover the existence of an excellent theatre and a most creditable amateur dramatic society. Then a large and substantial Oddfellows' Hall attracts your notice, and subsequently a polite invitation makes you aware that a series of private assembly balls takes place during the winter months. Perhaps te anyone making a very limited stay ir Mackay, no hotter opportunity of judging of the society of the place is afforded than by attending one of those little reunions. Select, sociable and recherche in the extreme, they are a reflex jf the homes of the better class of the residents ; while beauty and fashion da7zle the eye, unconstrained self-posession and brilliant conversational povrers charm the Srnses to admiration. Judging from the attendance at one of these assembly balls 1 should imagine that the line of demarcation between the upper anH lower circles was very defined. The planters have their homes mostly on the plantations, and it is here that wealth and comfort nre conspicuous. Many of the plantations are but a short distance from town, and consequently easy of access to visitors. The culture of the sugar cane can ther be seen to perfection, as also the elaborati machinery which accomplishes the proces of manufacture. The operation of sugar making, from the crushing mills to th< refinery, is throughout one of great inter est to the uninitiated, and the oppoitunitj of witnessing it should not be lost. Th< amount of capital involved in it in thi; district is something enormous, but for tunafelv the return is proportionate — so] am informed. The necessary labour is found by Polynesians, who are imp< rtec from the South Sea islnnds for terms o three years at wages of £0 per annum anc their keep, which is trifling, the cost oi each Polynesian to the planter amounts or the average to about £7s for the full tern of .'} years. The well-to-do planters dc not confine their operations solely to the sugar cane. Portions of their estates arc allotted to garden and recreation grounds and in some instances these are laid out in princely style— lawns, terraces, lakes conservatories, and such like adorn suet portions as are not under cultivation, whilst fruit and flower gardens of no mean order add to the general beauty and luxury which predominates Beyond Port Mackay there are no settled districts of much interest to the traveller. Bowen and Townsville are less pretentious and less important, but the former can boast of a really beautiful harbour, where the largest ships can ride at the safest anchorage. Beyond this is Cooktown. 1050 miles from Brisbane, a rapidly rising seaport of some three years growth. Ibis receives its sole business from the gold regions of the Palmer river, about one hundred miles inland. Everything at present is in a very primitive state, but there is the making of a large town in its steady progress and continued influx of emigrants A very lerse portion of these litter are Chinese, who migrate from Hong Kong in whole shiploads, and who«e countrymen have extensive stores in Cooktown and at the Palmer. But wealth is obtained at great personal risk so far north as this. Not alone is there the dreadful heat of 6uirmer, but the prevalence of fever and ague in its worst form, from the ravages of which numbers die daily. Then the natives are very hostile and numerous, frequently attacking travellers, and spearing indiscriminately horses and mm. Large vessels trade between here and Sydney, calling at all intervening ports of importance, with an increasing traffic. On embarking for my return to New South Wales it became necessary in accordance with the steamboat company's arrangements to proceed to the ioland of Flat-top in a small steam lender, then to await the steamer's arrival. The accommodation provided on this island proved to be of the very meanest description, consisting simply of a large-sized shed upon the beach, perfectly destitute of furniture or fittings of any kind. Here the passeugnrs are left for hours or days, (the latter being the time when bad weather prevails). They are supposed to provide their own food, and to cook it, and to find comfortable sleeping qnarters on tba bare floor. On the top ot the hill is a signal station, and at night the man in charge comes down to the shed, light* a lamp therein, and departs, leaving occupants to shift for themselves as best they may. Perhaps the expected steamer arnveg during the night, in which case your misery is short, but failing this your provisions run low, and a foraging expedition around the island is necessary for such food in thn shape of oysters or other fish as may be obtainable. If you are fortunate enough to possess a gun you can ' indulge in the luxury of a wild pig, of' which there are many about. Or the weapon may be useful in the event of an attack from hostile natives who sometimes come across from the other islands, and have to be dislodged by very summary measures, In any case your night's rest (?) is not improved by an imaginary picture of one of these savages taking stock of you through the exposed Tindow. Fortunately, in my case, the steamer arrived during the night, when we ware at once taken aboard. After a short detention we were again under weigh, en route to Sydney, which was reached in about a week, not however without encountering a very severe gale which placed us for a time in considerable danger. The producing capabilities of Queensland are very great. In addition to gold, copper, tin, wood, tallow, timber, sugar, rum, cotton and preserved meats, which are articles of export, there are grown in more or leis quantities tea, coffee, hemp, tobacco, arrowroot, tapicca, ginger, liquorice, indigo, tumeric, vacona, madder, etc., whilst its fruits include bananas, oranges, pineapples, cumquots, plaintains, dates, mangos, olives, guavas, limes, Cape gooseberries, custard apples, tamarinds, Brazillian cherries, and jack fruit. In farm produce is raised wheat, oats, potatoei, maize, yams and sweet potatoes Land is obtainable under the homestead regulations, whereby selectors are allowed 80 acres agricultural or 160 acres pastoral land at a yearly rental of 9d. per acre for the former, and 6d. for tb.6 latter, with personal residence thereon ; after 5 years ft title ii iejued, without further payment,

[ A large quantity of land is allowed in the case of sugar and coffee growers, the regulations compelling the selector to put one tenth under cultivation within 3 years. The total extent of country in Queensland is 434,370,000 acres, or 076,000 square miles.