NOTES BY THE WAY

Westport Times, Volume VI, Issue 1019, 5 November 1872, Page 2

NOTES BY THE WAY

(To the Editor of the West port Times) Sin—lt is now over five years since I was in Greynouth before, and yon may suppose was greatly surprised to see such an improvement in the town, considering the fires and iloods the people there have had to contend with. What a contrast from the time when old Reuben first planted his foot on shore, no house to place his stores in, till ho built one, and all around nothing but dense bush, with the exception of a hit of clearing the Maories had. Many a score of pigeons and ka-kas I have shot along what they call Richmond Quay, and Boundary street, and the back of Mawhera Quay, the once impenetrable bush, looking so dense, so thick, that it was thought almost impossible to penetrate it. You may guess how I stared to see those handsome villas with their well laid out gardens dotted here and there, and then walking slowly along the tramway, noting everything as I passed, I turned my head to the right, what is that I see ? can my eye> believe ? —lt is surely a gasometer ! I had not seen such for many years, therefore my astonishment. Great credit is due to the inhabitants for their energy in this and other improvements. The town at night has a cheerful aspect from the numerous gas light burning in every street and dwelling. The stone wall along the river bank, now in course of erection, is a noble piece of work, considering the short space of time the place has been occupied, and to all appearance will be a great protection to the town from floods. Had Westport something similar, even though it were rough boulders, it would not have cost half so much as it has done in useless patching. On the whole Greymouth is the most lively town I have been in lately on the Coast, and I have visited nearly all within the last three months.

In sauntering round the town I heard the sound of martial music playing the Dead March in Saul, I found out it was the funeral of an old and respected townsman, whom I had known, and therefore made my way to the cemetery, to witness the last ceremony. Here again was another change from the time when we buried our dead in the early days of the Grey. Our friends were buried in, whatever kind of boxes or cases came to hand, made up in the shape of coffins, as well as could be, and no minister of the gospel being near, the service read by one of the company, the body then had to be carried on the shoulders of the deceased's friends, and in going into the grave yard they had to waile over tho knees in water and mud. The coffin lowered and tho earth shovelled in, a wooden peg was driven in, with the initials of the name of the deceased, and that was the only record of his L.st resting place. I noticed that some of these early graves are greatly neglected. I crossed tho Grey to seo the township of Cobden. What a contrast between the two, tho one all life and bustle, and the other with its empty dilapidated tenements, and rotten old wharf. The sight was enough to give one the shivers. Arrived at the coal mines, I went through them. 1 am no judge of this material, but from what 1 couid learn from some people near hand, that there is uot sufficient demand for the coal,, to keep tho men constantly employed. I was surprised at the news as there has been so much talk of the shortness of coal. It certainly is a wonderful mins. I crossed the river here in a canoe, through the kindness of one of the men working in tho mine, and after having shouted for half an hour for the ferryman, I passed through what is called the twelve mile ; I called at an hotel to get something to eat, hut could get nothing but bread and cheese, no meat to bo got at any price. I travelled 25 miles that day, and it was the same everywhere no meat to be got, not but I have travelled many a time a greater distance, and worse roads on this Coast without anything to eat, but I thought it so strange with so much meat in Grreymouth, making such a splendid show, that the people should be without meat, and with such good roads, only 12 miles away.

I come upon the Ahaura creek just at dusk, and followed the dray tracks (there being no finger posh o"r other mark to guide the weary foot traveller), and into the river I walked, thinking that was the road, but I soon found it was too deep to ford on foot, there was no light or anything in the shapo of a ferry in sight, and not being a smoker I forgot to put matches in my pocket, and therefore I saw a very fair show of being oat all night. After a few loud cooees, and no answer, I walked clown the river and cooeod, I was answered at last, and a boatman ferried me across. I found afterwards there is foot roads as well as horse tracksj whers these deep crossings in tho river can be avoided by going round about a bit, but why do not the G-ovcrnment put finger posts to show foot passengers the road. In coming down tho I took all on a face deeper not deep, but I learnt that several fords could bo avoided if tho way was hotter known. Tho onlv sign of a finger post that I saw was thus) Sp" ToIELE Fj£Bp. I could not resist tho temptation of taking down tho exact copy of this. The writer ought to have done as tho school boy did, and put underneath- tho first part '■ this is a hand."

Tho Ahanr.i township is well laid out, and has somo very good hotels

and stores, but like every other place, I passed through, everything in tho shape of business is very dull. I next travelled from Ahaura to but must for tho present close my jottings —Yours &c.. Old Traveller.