A TRIP TO THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS, THE NAVIGATORS AND THE FIJIS.

Westport Times, Volume IV, Issue 727, 22 October 1870, Page 2

A TRIP TO THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS, THE NAVIGATORS AND THE FIJIS.

CHAPTER lI.—THE NAVIGATORS OR

SAMOAN GROUP.

(FROM OUR SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT.) On the 24th of August, we took our departure from the Friendly Islauds and pursued our course to the Navigators or Samoan Groups, situated in 13 to 14 degrees south. I cannot say that we were sorry at leaving Tongatabu, for, notwithstanding that the land is good, and that the natives are governed with the " vain pomp and show" of nations that consider themselves more civilized, there is a duluess about the place and a haughtiness amongst the natives that do not compare well with our experiences in Samoa or Fiji. A small hotel or refreshment bar is much wanted in Tonga, but the missionaries have used their influence to prevent the establishment of such a place, by imposing a license duty of 300 dollars per annum.

I have already referred to a whaling vessel which was lying at anchor iu the harbor, and before 1 proceed to extend my notes on Samoa, I wish to say a word on whaling, which may prove useful to those who are at present suffering from a plethora of capital and a paucity of profitable investments. Here was a vessel (one of about thirty) fitted out and manned in New Bedford, U.S., but partly provisioned at the Bay of Islauds, actively engaged within a thousand miles of our own coast, killing just as many whales as they could comfortably do with. Two whales a 4ay, but (most unusual for whalers) no boats launched on Saturday or Sunday, although the whales were playing within sight of the ship. Have we lost all speculative spirit m New Zealand that we allow the Americans to make fortunes out of the whale-fishery, at our own doors, without our attempting to have a share in the enterprise ? After a tolerably good passage of seven days we came in sight of the beautiful and mountainous islands of the Sarnoan or Navigators' Group, aud passing the most southerly island of Tobuilla, we sailed along the coast of Upolou until we reached the harbor of Apia, where we were boarded by the Yankee pilot belonging to the "port. The towu of Apia is very beautifully situated on a reef-locked bay at the foot of the thickly wooded hills of IJpolou. The appearance of these islands resembles very much the wooded mountain scenery in the neighbourhood of Westport or the Grey; there being only a small 'belt of flat land round the coast, from which the hills rise to a height of 2000 or 3000 feet, on which, here and there, can be seen the glitter of a cascade as some rivulet dashes onward to the sea. I have no doubt many of your readers have read Mr Herbert Ainslio's work, " The Pilgrim and the Shrine." Those who have the book, have only to refer to that chapter in which he so graphically describes his visit to these Samoan islands, and they will form a much better idea of the beauty of the landscape, and the simple manners of the natives, than by perusing any description of mine. I cannot say that I was so fortunate as to have that lovely Maleia for my guide ; but otherwise, my experiences tallied exactly with those of the author referred to. The banana and orange groves, the fruits, the hospitality, the strange custom'?, and the euphonious language of these peculiar people are as striking now as'when seen by Mr Ainslie. There is, however, this difference—that the European town has increased in size considerably ; there being now over a hundred German residents belonging to the Hamburg house of Godefroy and Sons (a more extenisve establishment than anything of the kind in New Zealand;) and about as many more whites, comprised of English and Americans. There are also two or three negro sailor men from the States; one of whom characteristically told us that lie was "one of de first white men who landed on the group." On account of the excellent water and other "luxuries " procurable at this port, it has always been a favorite place of call for whalers, guano-vessols, aud ships bound from San Francisco to the Colonies. While we were there the harbor had quite a busy appearance, there being then at anchor two

German barques, the missionary barque John Williams, a \yjialing barque, three German brigs, a steam launch, three schooners from the Colonies, besides coasting cutters. Two men-of-war had sailed a week before wo arrived. All these German vessels were engaged in loading island produce for Europe, from the house to which I have referred above. There is also a Sydney firm with a pretty extensive trading and cotton ginning establish ment in Apia, and about half a dozen stores of a smaller description. There are two Protestant churches and a Roman Catholic one, built of stone, and rejoicing in the name of " Cathedral,' <-u which is erected a very useful townclock. There are five or six public houses, two dancing saloons, two bowling alleys,and one ortwo billiard tables; these places of amusement being patronized chiefly by the'sailors and ollicers of the ships. At the dancing saloons the Native women are your partners, and excellent waltzers they are, although their dancing-pumps are those which Nature provided them with. The music most generally in vogue was obtaiued from the accordion, played by Native women ; but in one Baloou, which appeared to be most patronised, the music was supplied by a violin and a pair of bones played played by two darkies from Greeuock. There are three consuls here, —English, American, and German, and the residences of these gentlemen are furnished with all the comforts audelegancies of a civilized city, while the kindness and hospitality of all the European and American residentu are proverbial. We had horses placed at our disposal whenever we wanted to make use of them, and we almost daily made up a party for a canter along the beach. A favorite ride was to the plantations belonging to the German firms, about five miles from town, where we had an opportunity of seeing cotton, coffee, cocoa nuts, Indian corn, rice, &c, cultivated on a more systematic scale than we witnessed anywhere in the Pijis there being about 160 native labourers employed. Owing to the geographical positiou of this group, labor can be procured within easy distance, either at the Lino or Savage Islands, and it i 3 exceedingly probable that a large portion of the lands will yet be occupied by planters from the colonies. Goodness knows there is plenty of land, " assorted " to any height from the sea-level enough to frighten the land-jobbers of Fiji out of conceit of their bargains—aud with labour at hand, " the result," as Pickwick says, " happiness," for the planters' motto is labor omnia vincit.

The natives of this group are on most friendly terms with the whites, but a bloody war has been carried on between two parties for the supremacy of the islands, for more than two years past. We seemed to be harbingers of good luck to them, for, a few days after our arrival, a native meeting took place, and peace was concluded : many of the natives returning to their homes, which they were compelled to fly from several months before. During our stay, it was no uncommon occurrence to see a dozen or two mysterious looking natives, unknown to'the inhabitants of Apia, going quietly through the town armed to the teeth with rifle and other implements, bent on carrying out some secret instruc*k>ns for attack or defence. The Samoans will not work for the white man, except for a day or two now and then. They have no wants ; their food growing in abundance for them in the native plantations, and their only dress, the lavalava or kilt, is procurable with little labor. The women are, however, rather fond of dress, and many of them many be seen carrying a large parasol, as they proceed at mid-day to take their bath in the refreshing water of the river. Of course we tasted the Kava or native grog, which has been so often described in Colonial papers of late. We were on most intimate terms with a chief, who resided near town, and we paid him and his relations frequent visits, presenting him occasionally with a bottle of square gin, while he, in return, ordered two of his handsomest girls to prepare and serve out the Kava.

It is unfortunate for this group in common with that of the Fijis, that it has no form of government. Might is right, and while this system continues capital cannot assist to develop the rich resources of these eight inhabited islands. Sir "Wentworth Dilka says the only islands in the Pacific that arc of any value are the Sandwich Islands and New Zealand. It is unfortunate that such assertions should be made by one holding such an influential position, and at the same time never having seen the islands. Were all these groups to be taken possession of by Great Britain, they would form homes for 100.000 British citizens; and would supply food and employment for twice that number at home.

As I said when I began to pen these notes, I have little or no spacp for describing the manners or customs of the Natives. We went one night to see a native dance, in which there were at least a couple of hundred singers and dancers engaged. The dance appeared to be a trial of skill between two parties, and .was a great improvement on the Maori war-dance. They are good singers, and their language is so musical in its pronunciation thnt it is called the Italian of tho Pacific. I cannot say more in favor of the kind treatment we received in these islands, than by quoting from my diary the few words which I noted down to indi-

cate the day of my departure —" Parewell, hospitable Apia" I took my passage to the Fiji islands on board of a Sydney trading schooner—one of these floating stores which sail round the islands Jaden with all the manufactures of England to be exchanged for dollars or the produce of the South Pacific—

" Where the East with richest hand, Showers on her chiefs, barbaric pearl and gold."

For an account of my visit to the Fijis, I must reserve my energies for another chapter.