A LADY'S DIARY.

Wairarapa Daily Times, Volume XV, Issue 4803, 18 August 1894, Page 2

A LADY'S DIARY.

From Mrs If, E, Paige,

Auckland, May 15th.

As so many of my friends in Mastertoil asked me to writo to them, and remembering the pleasure it gavo mo when I read an account of your voyage to England, I think I had better keep a diary and send it on to you, and if you can give me spaco in tho Daily Times I am sure many will feel a kindly interest in reading, of our doings. Wo started fromWcllingtonon tho 11th inst by the Kotomahana. Many friends came to seo us off, and oven Masterton was represented by our kind friend Mr W. H, Bectham. Tho sea was so high that no.cargo could be landed atNapicr but tho tug boat came out and took the mails back and ono of our passengers,who took tho risk and was subsequently, left behind, for the tug did not return as it usually docs in the afternoon. We sailed again about fivo o'clock, and that night the sea was very rough but. no wind, and with all the rolling from side to side I was not sea-sick, but feeling too ill to lift my head or leavemy berth. We reached '

OISHOBNE

early on Sunday morning, and insido the bay it was calmer and I could get a good look at tho pretty .little town from Hie port-hole, and enjoy tho fresh sea air. Wo were there about two hours and wero soon rolling about outside, at full speed towards Aucklaud whero wo arrived yesterday morning (the 14th) before the usual time. It was a lovely morning and I thoroughly enjoyed getting up very early for a walk on tho upper deck, and seeing tho lovely scenery on all sides. On reaching tho wharf at

AUCKLAND

tho first person we saw was Mrlihodcs Donald, who kindly came to see if he could help us with our luggage. Then Miss Yon Stunner arrived, and wo are iio\V spending-a.plea-sant time with them in their pretty hoine at Parncll, but all agreo iu wishing they were again living in Masterton. ' How often during our voyage, I have blessed the kind friends who so kindly provided me with a warm rag and a lavender scented salts bottle. Bothhavo been most useful, and I should advise no one to go to sea without these two things, and a pair of crotchet slippers for tho cabin with a small pocket to pin to the berth curtain, to contain small things which aro so handy, but yet so easily lost. Auckland reminds one. very 'much of England,with its large s'tono buildings and stone walls, but tho streets are cruel for the poor horses' feet, being mended with scoria, and all tho. streets are moro or less hilly. Scenery round Auckland is very like England with so many trees.

May 16th,—In the afternoon Mrs Taylor took us for a most delightful drive of over two hours, and wo saw Onchunga plainly. Tho stone fences are a great wonder to me after tho post and rails of tho Wairarapa, and gorso hedges of tho south;

May 17th,—Wo visited the museum, which is well worth seeing, particularly tho Maori house. I think no one would feel a greater interest in seeing it than Dr Beard. It was very interesting, the Maori canoc especially, and the large collection o£ Maori implements, etc. After a good lunch at the D.S.C, wo went by tramcar to Ponsonby to sco Mrs Poster, who has a lovely homo there close by tho sea. May 18th.—Another beautiful day for our long walk to the top of Mount Eden, where we had a wonderful time —quite a panorama of Auckland. We could see Mauakau and Onchunga on ono side, and Auckland and tho beautiful harbour on tho other. It was most interesting seeing the great extinct volcano at tho top, and tho rifle pits in every direction nsed by tho Maoris in the war time, and one only wonders how they woro ever conquered with such strongholds _as one sees around Auckland, and with such a lovely country one cannot be surprised at their fighting so hard to keep their land. It is so warm and pleasant here that one feels as thoughhc were in another islaud, and, you, who have seen Auckland, cannot wonder at my feeling that no one should lcavo without seeing it if one had the power of doing so. I have been particularly delighted with the wonderful view from Mount Eden, and the gardens in tho Albert Park.

May 19,—Went to the North Shore by steamer to call on Mr Edward Payton, and lie has two lovely little girls to whom no photograph could do justice. We had a pleasant strollou Cheltenham Beach.

May 20th—Wont to St Mary's, the Cathedral Church. Canon McMurray preached. Being Trinity Sunday we could take the H.C, together for the last time in New Zealand. Ira much struck with the quiet dress of the'young ladies in the choir. Black dresses, wliito collars and cuffs, and plain black straw hats. No colours and no flowers nor ornaments, It looked vory nice, such a contrast to what ouo sees iu other churches. The singing too, was vory good. ■ :

j May 22nd,—After pouring rain all the morning it cleared. up by the time wo ;hacl to go on board tlio Talune, and although tho'sea was very ranch wo had a good passage to Sydney. I could not leave my berth until we entered

BYDNBV HABDOUH, ' very early on Sunday morning, May 2m, and very thankful 1 felt to bo on land again. So much has been said and written about this most lovely scene that no words of mine could give any idea of the scenery on all sides, After breakfast wc collected our belongings, and leaving all wc did not rcquiro for our week's stay on shore, wc took a cab nud drove at onco to the lodging kindly recommended by Miss Pearson and her brother, Wc were in good timo for clnirch, which' is close at hand—St. John's, Bishopsthorpe—a handsome stouc building, a choral service, and heard an oxcbDont sermon from tlio Eov, Mr Tovcy. la the evening wo went to the Cathedral and 'wcro much pleased wl(h tlio service. The buildingwo must yisifclater on, May 28th.—After goiug to tlio Union Co.'s and tlion Orient Co.'s wharf, wo took ji train to Paddiiigton, Wavcrly, and Bondi, and had tinje to visit the Wavorlcy Park and get an extensive view of tlio city and suburbs, taking tlio return train to Circular Quay, and then by steam ferry over to Manly Beach, wliich is quito the other sido or the. liarhour, not far from the Heads, Then by omnibus back to Glebe Point, where wc are lodging. May 29t1i,-After going on board the "Oruba" and scoiug all the luggago safely on board, wc took a ferry-boat passage to the North Shore, and then went to Ijalmoral Beach by cablo tram and electric cijr, both wojiderfiil contrivances. On our return to Sydney wo enjoyed some lunch at a sijop in Goorgo Street, and then a walk home, strolling into the difforont arcados, and admiring the fruit and flower shops especially, I forgot to say how ycry cheap all theso excursions are, a shilling s worth of tram or omnibus tickets will cover some miles of distance, and the ferry boats are equally cheap, and most comfortable. All have seats and coverings. At this season the weather is dcliglitful, quito warm, but no wind. I carry a light cloak, but so far have' not needed it, One sees flowers in abundance, and frost seems to be ■ unknown, May 30th.—Spent many hours in tlio Botanical Gardens, which aro flie most perfectly lai'd out of any. I have ever seen. We saw'many old Sast Indian plants and slmtbs. In thqaftcrnoon the bajid nlayed, and later 'on we were able to call at the Deanery on firs but unfortunately she was not in, but Jicr sister took us with her to the 'Cathedral, which is a grand building, smaller than an English one, but tie stained . Tviiidojys afe wry bcautiM,' 'Wo Miy 31st.— I jhrojigh an' introduction of the 'Dean's wo wcro taken through the University! The hall is very, beautiful jvith stained glass windows, Also tlio Egyptian Museum! Then wo were taken through tho Alfred Hospital (wliich is ncartlie University) by tho residontj Dr Hawkiui, Aftirtliat we wjal' tbro^glji

tlio Asylum for tho Blind, Deaf and ; - Dumb, ind were much i interested in ' hearing |ho different lessons, particularly ' onowherji the clever teacher was teachirig the dumb to speak, • and one. boy answercdlMr Paige's questions quite, plainly by watching his mouth. Tho ' way these poor children are taught is wonderful. s Ono little blind girl played nicely, and another read very fluently. In tlio afternoon we went by train to tho Zoological Gardens at Eandwick, which aro well worth seeing. They liavo a largo collection, including clophantij'' tigers, lions, lionesses, .etc. .. Tvt v June Ist.—To-day wo liavo spent some hours in the musoum. The collection o£ curiosities is a very large and extensive one,, and I regret that wo liavo only tiiao to tako merely a general viow, It would occupy days to seo it properly, Wo afterwards went through tho Art Galwith its beautiful collection of paintings,water colorings, and sculpture, and I only regret that wo cannot seo it moro thoroughly, . Afterwards, wo walked; on to see tho view of the harbour from Mrs McQuarrie's Chair, as it is called, and through tho Botanical Gardens. June 2nd.—Another, lovely, bright warm day, wo started directly after breakfast by omuibus, and took a steamer from tho King-street - wharf for Parramatta. Tho scenery jm, tho river is very beautiful. We fßlltho monument erected to tho lrSSry'ef Searle, the champion sculler, of whom tho Sydney people are extremely proiuk Ho died on his passage back from land. Tho monument stands in the river (a broken column), in tho Park at Paramatta, Wo saw, just at the entrance, a memorial stone where Lady Mary Fitzroy was killedinlßl7,andthe railing enclosing the tree against which the carriage struck wlion the driver and tho auks de camp wero thrown out. Parramatta is a quiet little country town, not nearly so busj as Masterton. The old Government House in the Park is now used, I beiiove, as a hoarding liousc. The steamers can only come within about three miles of the town, as: ' hut a tram' meets each steamer oil its arrival and return. Every placo here has largn parks or recreation grounds, witli seats m abundance and drinking fountains. The climate at this scason.of the year is perfect. Each day of this week we have taken our lunch and eujoyed it., in one of the many parks. A person in town told us that in tho sujpftFio heat in Parramatta was soroJfincs 120 degrccsin tho shade. Now ae weather l ip charming, ' ' Juno 4th,—Started for

JIELBOUBNE

in tho Oruba. Mrs Fanniu camo oil board to sec us off; the lastfaco from Mastcrton we can see for alougtimc. Wo had a pleasant journey as far as the Heads, when it very suddenly became stormy, and I was glad to go below to escape the cold wind and rain; tho wind changed and the night was a very rough one, and I remained in my berth, but somehow felt I had taken a bad cold. We arrived at the Sandridgo pier early ; on Wednesday morning. Juno 6lh.—My sister and ncices wero on the pier to meet us. Tho former I had not seen for 2<l years. We had no trouble with tho luggage, nothing was_. opened, and we all starfccl' for 'Fernaircs, where I was very . warmly greeted by a host of my relations.' Tho Judge looked older, but tho.samo dear.kind good brother. We all dined together, a largo and merry party, but tho next day I was ill and in bed, and wlicnDr Power camo the following day he said I was suffering from bronchitis and congostiou of both lungs, and I never left my bodroom until the mora- 1 iiig of tho 23rd., wheumy sister took mo in a closed liausom cab.aud on board tlio.f Austral, so tho wliolo time at St. Kilda I spent iumyrooni. it was very unfortunate for us all for so, much enjoyment had been planned for us, but one could not help feeling how truo it is - " I'liomme jrnpsc minim dispose." 1

ADELAIDE. Monday, Juno 25th—Wohavohad a very quiet passage from Melbourno, tho trip is a most comfortable one.andas 2nd ' saloon passengers wo havo all we can desire. Tho tablesaro well laid and tho; food excellent. Wo have about 70 in tho 2nd saloon, and only I hear G in tho Ist saloon including children. So it is to bo hoped thero will bo no quarrel. We have breakfast at 7, Beef tea for the ladies at 11, dinuerat 1, tea at half-past 5, and bread and checso at 10. The only drawback is tho num. ber of children oil board, ns tlioy aro very noisy, but as the days get warmer, we shall not mind tliemso much,for they will, I trust, prefer being on deck to' invading the dining saloon. An other drawback is somo dreadfully musical young ladies, who will persist in strummg for hours at a tuno on tho piano, to ■ tho annoyance of many, who wish cither to read or write, Wo aro lying at anchor about four miles from, tho shore, so wo can sco but little of it, Tho tug boats como out but I do not think any of tho passengers have cared to venture on shore, This big ship is quite steady, but tho sea looks very rougU and the tug boats are at ono moment high up andthe next down in tho trough of tho sea. Tho land looks very flat, and wo aro notnoar enough to sec eyon tlio liousos, Juno 27th.— . LAHGS BAY. Yesterday it being such a lovoly day, and tho sea very smooth, a largo uumbor of the passengers -went on shore, Mr Paige amongst, tho number, and on his return in tho ovening gave a good account of tho • pleasant. day ,he Lad spent in Adelaide, with which ho is delighted. Unfortunately the steamor is ancliorcd so far from the shore that we can, from the ship, see but little of the land, whicli is flat, and tho town is nine milcsdistant by train, Mr Paigo had amplo timo to visit tho Botalucal Gardons and tho Cathedral, with which ho was doliglitcd. The streets aro ivido and as usual laid' out at right angles. Wo aro to leavo to-day at 12, and the Adelaide passengers are now coming on board, so wo shall bo a very full ship after all, Just 00 in tlio second saloon, ' Juno 30th.—Arrived this afternoon at Albany. After the continual rolling of tlio steamer it was a fireat relief to bo at anchor ii( King George's Sound, but wc arc some milos from the town of Albany, We could seo but little of tlio country or town; the land is Very barren, but the hills remind ono of fyttolton har, hour and tlio situation of tho town, but tho harbour is far larger., Wc wero.-' only there for about "team'sJust time to land and take on board tho mails and passengers. Outside wo had a very rough night, tho looso boxes in our cabin were rushing from sido to side.

July Ist,—After a very rough morning vo had a quieter evening, and it enabled many to come to the ovening service from tl)p other parts of tho ship. Mr Paige took the prayers," and a Prca< bytcfian Minister (a Mr MoKay) preached an excellent sermon, and the singing was well joined in, Attor tho service we had some sacred music, and Mr Howe; tho well-known actor,"recited most bcautifullyAdclaido Proctor's poem " The Faithful Soul," so it was; after all, a. pleasant eliding to tlic rough morning. _ I have travelled in many steamers but in none have I had greater comfort, the food is of excellent quality and in : abundance, and every day there is fruit on the tables. I would not wish to ho in the first saloon, when there arc now' only twclvo passengers, ■ including childrcn. 10-day many of tlio passengers arobusy preparing and practising for tho first of a series of entertainments to take place to-morrow ovening, and this evening there is ii dance for {he yoiuig people oil deck, while some in the saloon arei enjoying a quiqt rubber of draughts and chess. Wo are already filing the weather mupli xvafmer, and tho steward has kiiidly given US an empty ciibifl in which wo, can put our boxes, and clothing, so as to keep oijr cabin as cool as possible. ;. W 'lth;—liast ovening we had a very. pleasant entertainment given by soine cj£" tljo passengers, and the salooli was well hllepnd the songs etc, much apiiUjijrf Wo arc having lovely. sea to : dav is quite calm,' lookci] a deep yiolct colour. holes are open, for wo arc i weather, and £ cannot

how our dear friends in Masterton nvo whero tho weather must now bo so cold, iosterday all tho boxes marked" wanted ? n 0 wcro bought up from tho hold and Toll arranged on tho lowerdeck, so wo had no difficulty in getting at any thing wo wanted iu tho way of lighter clothing, and to-day many of the young ladies aro looking qnito smart in light dresses and blouses, and the gentlemen also are taking to light flannols and straw hats. I already feel that the sea has dono wonders for me. This mirnilig, as it is now quite light at six 0 clock, I got up soon after and had a walk on deck beforo breakfast at eight. ■Po-day I see many preparations for hot weather, wind sails anil larger awnings < aro being put up. 1 July 6th.—Last evening there was a dance on deck, and it kept up until linlfpast nine. The ship's onnd is a very good one, tho stewards being tho performers, and they lilny remarkably well. July 6tli.—Anouier lovely morning. The sun rises a little beforo six, and just opposite our cabin port hole. I had a brisk walk for a half-liour before breakfast on deck. I liayc often spoken of tho good and well-served meals, and I will merely copy the menu- card put on our table to-day:—"Orient Line—Dinuci - Second Saloon: head, Nee sflip, roast beef and Ukcd potatoes, roastnjtk boiled mutton with capei sauce, ulSm pudding, lemon cream (iced), custard patties and cheese cakes, apples, ■ plums, lints.—ll.M.S. Austral, July otli fvl*" This is just an every-day bill of fare, but it will give you a good idea of how well wo are treated, I can only repeat, erery tiling seems done for the comforl and convenience of the passengers, al any rato on the good ship" Austral." July Oth, -Tho weather still continue. l very tine, though wo arc all complaining of the great heat in the cabins at night Mr Paige takes his rug and pillows aiu is glad to sleep on deck under the cover mg. Since we left Albany, now a weel ago, wo have not passed or seen a ship , July 7th.—Last evening we were in vitcd to a concert given by the (lis saloon passengers. I will enclose M; •Paytoj the programme for you to sec The duet, 11 The Moon was liaised,' was encored and was tho gem o£ tin evening, Mr Eiloy docs not come U] to Mr I', (J, Moore, although he has i strong voice, but the expression is want ing. Mr Dinnis is our very uopularaiu much liked purser j and when I tel i sings as well as M Cole may judge what a picas ure it is tolfarhim. Wo have a vcr; musical lot of passengers and the • [« in the saloou is seldom silent. Som take a mean advanlage and wil practice. That is trying ut limes. July Bth, Siincmy.—Lat. 'i'o2, Long 8802, A wclcomo sight met our eye when wc camo in to breakfast this morn ing. The punkahs were in full swing 18 going at once, and although wc ar m very hot weather, the saloon felt colt I was on deck at a quarter to seven, am had an hour's reading, as few passenger cared to be up early, many slept on deck tho cabins being now very hot,butou al the port holes on the sunny side thcr aro Venetian blinds which add.to tin coolness of the cabins, and all the seat; and lounges are covered with browi liollaud. Wc have had a hearty timo in the first saloon as it is large] than this one, and I was pleased to set io many attending, and a large numbei from the steerage, the services aro al divided so as to suit all denominations This morningwehad our Church service then, an excellent sermon from Mi McKay, the Presbyterian clergyman the ringing too was well and heartily in. dulged in, as there was a good practice yesterday afternoon. This evening wc are to have the Church service, audtheu .i Mr Lawrence, a missionary who has fteon somo years iu Raratonga will preach, He has 18 months leave to spend in England, Wc havo now taukards of iced water on every table, and it a great temptation to be constantly drinking, but I am sure it is not good to take too much,