Budding Roses.
The operation is very simple—when you know how it is done; but there is no reason why the veriest novice should not try his hand at it, and if he is careful lie will succeed in it large percentage of his attempts if he pays attention to tho following j| simple rulesln the month of January tho sap is flowing vigorously,and and any wound made in a plant heals as tho docters say, by " first intent." We have then only to graft a piece of of tbo skin of another to perform the operation of " budding," but it is necessary to do it according to tho practice which is found successful, Personally, wq prefer Roses on their own roots, but they take time to develop, whereas by budding Jfunotli stocks or the Wild Koses dug/>i" ; from tho hedgo-banlcs in thoprovffi winter we can get flowers from thfrn in tho next year, The stocks, having been planted in tho winter, should now be flourishing and throwing out strong branches, which are pinched back to make them as strong as possible ; but it is not advisable to givo nunuro. When the bark of the stock liftS readily from tho wood is tho best time for budding, for that fact indicates that tho sap is flowiug, and during January is tho season, as a rule, for budding. Tho tools required aro a sharp knife and a little hit of ivory of boxwood so shaped to enable one to easily separato bark from tho sap wood without in> juring the tissues of tho stock. Then we select buds from the sorts wo desire-choosingas a rule,plump buds though there is not much advantage in that; but it should he understood that no damage is done to tho parent ■ plant by the removal of a bud. Having removed the bad by a clean cut with the knifo, we pull out the bit of wood that Ims been of necessity with it,taking euro not injure itself,and wo cut the upper edge of tho bark which carries it "squaro" ; then we make a T incision in tho bark of the stock, carefully lift tho bark from the wood, and insert the bud, making its squared edge abut closely against tho horizontal cut of the T on tho stock, while the flaps of the longitu- , dinal or vertical cut aro made to cover tho tail end of tho bud, It is sufficient to bind the bud in with wet bass or raffia, but if wo desire to makosurowe cover the parts ■with grafting wax, At this season of the year that is not necessary, for tho .plant, being in vigorous growth, tltoj wound heals by 1 ' first intent," and i™ a short time the bud becomes iirmlj ■ cemented to the stock. It is, however, always advisable to bind it in, because we often havo high winds in summer, mid until the scion is firmly - united to the stock there is always the risk of its being torn away. It will occur to the liovico that, budding being so simplo au operation, no reason why he should notfmfve roses of different colors on- the same. stem, and ho may if lie chooses: for, givoua healthy, strong,growing stock, lie can bud all the varieties ho can get, and have a tree bearing flowers of many different tints. Eoses grow best ou soils, such as those in which the dog rose flourishes-that is, good-hearted loaui with a cold clayeyi subsoil; but. still there must bo nof stagnation. !Phey cannot be expected' to do well on shallow soils overlyinj gravels, but tho gardener remediei that by digging holes and putting ii: some stiff clay. Roses on their owr roots havo of late coiue more intc fashion-especially dwarfs; and A, must bo confessed that, as plaJ®®? they are more handsome than til(" " broomsticks with bushy heads," bu the latter have their uses, as tho, can occupy the centre of a bed wliicl is filled with other flowers, and whet: planted in the borders tho blooms ari always within easy reach ot thi fingers or noses of thoso wlioize on] joying a walk in the TW Garden." v |
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Wairarapa Daily Times, Volume X, Issue 3310, 16 September 1889, Page 2
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695Budding Roses. Wairarapa Daily Times, Volume X, Issue 3310, 16 September 1889, Page 2
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