For the Codies

Wairarapa Daily Times, Volume 4, Issue 1043, 8 April 1882, Page 2 (Supplement)

For the Codies

■ v -LATEST'FASHIONS:: : ■; ;~~ - , , ti(FHO^LE|OI/LET,") Cliviatm'aa wiirfind heitlidr the ateliers ol tlio ; leadingmodißteg r their customers, unprepared for its advent arid attendant festivities. >V'

'Many complete 'liovklties have been introduced, and a due, proportion accepted by the .fiat 'of.fashion, ''already''in vpg'ue^have.'b'een : exactly !«"ivhenoriginated others/' while-preserving' : their leading features, have be'en altered to' present exigencies and '.tasted Plush, in'a hundred' varieties, is still very fashionable'for skirts, of them, trains, trimmings,, cloaks, and ; bodices; for the two latter,'however,' : this material should be employed only for thin figures, as •it certainly has the' appearanco of increasing the' size. Striped, spotted,'brochees,'watered,, goffered, shaded, shot, and "tigrts" plushes aro all in favour,- but these fancy 1 kinds 'are moro suitable for trimmings than for' ahy large : portion of the dress. : "• ■'

■ There are also numerous fa'cons of watered silks—the origirial'kind known by that name,, with the watering in rows ;' the. moires-with' the design distributed all over; alternate stripes of narrow waterings iiid satin, the latter plain, or. brocaded, in same shade, or in colors,, Pekin stripe of velvet are Tory elegant, and make up most effectively with many-other! materials. : The' broches moires are' also much liked, but' those with spots-have not mot with so great favour, and are'decidedly; inferior'in sfcylei '• Among' woollen materials, oAcliemireS-r Indian, Fronoh,, ; ahd.'"Empress'-are,;aiid ever wilt be apparently, the height bf fasli'ion.' Vigognes, and ladies' cloths, and very' many of the English cheviots, tweeds, serges,' aiid pther fancy woollens, with'small, stripes or checks, tiny| points' of numerous' bright colours, or shaded grounds, are greatly employed for costumes. These, and the, silk and woollen brocks, which are as fashionable as ever, aro made up whon two or more materials are desired in combination for .the ureßs; with silk; satin, poplin, velvet, velveteen, 'or plush, In many instances the last-named is of wool instead of'silk; many of-the woollen plushes'boing very good and effective,"while considerable less in price than those made of silk,

9orae of the rich materials Employed for toilettes lmbilKw are 'really magDificent; among them are the splendid lampas and brocades, with large flounces' and scrolls, many of them being heightened in' eflFect by tlio introduction of gold 'and silver threads. Some'of the richest poplins for evening wear have also gold and silver figures oh them—a return to an old style much admired at one time, but never more effectively employed tliau at the present, Metallic threads are, however, not confined to these expensive materials, but have been introduced with veiy fashionable success in woollen materials, and also in thinner fabrics for evening wear, .The velvet applaud satins are particularly rich; the pattern consists generally in scrolls and arabesque designs, and the variety produced by the darker shade of the velvet and the bright lights of the satin showing between the patterns is most effective, A greater novelty is the leather appliques, on a variety of grounds, such as velvet, satin, or plush. One would naturally conclude such a material excessively heavy, but it is notso, the leather being very thin. II va sans.dire that such fabrics are never intended to fall in folds; they require to hang quite plainly, and are best adapted for fourreau skirts, panels, plastrons, or corsages, Wo have lately seen a brown leather appliqud on brown satin, marvellously rich in effect of colour, each movement of tho wearer bringing out the rich golden tints of the bronze. Thick and thin materials are much worn together in the composition of evening dresses; brocade, lampaa, velvets, and plush casaquins, over tulle, gauze, crape, and other thin skirts with silk or satin foundations,. are as bien portos as when first introduced, Trains, or tunics cut in ouo with the bodice when this is made of brocho or. any of tho materials just enumerated, are also very genre, and have the advantage of lasting out two or three of the thin skirts made to accompany them, Profusions of laces are worn as trimmings, many of the skirts being covered by innumerable pelisses, ruches, or coquilles, Very rich laces are not, however, employed in this manner, but so arranged as to show their value and beautiful designs. Many lace shawls, half shawls, (poiutes), and scarves are being thus used, and admit of very elegant arrangement ou evening dresses. Flowers arc also worn in great quantity, somo of them being of large size. This exaggeration will not. we think) be of long duration, as the chief charm of au artificial flower is certainly its resemblance to nature, Laces outlined in beads, or the pattern entirely composed with beads, are very beautiful, and excessively fashionable, Their price'puts them beyond the reach of overyday purses; they will, therefore, remain recherohees. The same may be said of the beautiful hand-painted materials, Some of these destined for the panels, or fronts of evening dresses, are perfect in artistic finish. Long traius are do rigueur for very ceremonious occasions; many, when made of very rich or pattern materials, are : quite plain, or at the most ruched at the edge, or cut in tabs, showing inner pleatings of a different material, these being straight either from the waist when they are arrayed in, flat folds, or attached at the edge of the basqu?, or auy distance between that and the bend of tbe knee, When fastened to • the edge of the basque, several rows of coulisses, are somotimes used to attach thorn, If the pattern is large, or material' very, thick, a box pleat in the centre and flat pleats at each ! sido are preferred, Iu any case, it is better to have the lower edge of the train separate from the skirfc, wliieh should be complete without. This arrangement enables , the wearer to easily, raise or draw it on one Bide when wished without disarranging the re> mainder of her dress,