REV. FATHER REGNAULT'S TRIP TO ROTORUA.

Waimate Daily Advertiser, Issue 29, 10 December 1898, Page 1

REV. FATHER REGNAULT'S TRIP TO ROTORUA.

(Continued.) As soon as I could be taken away from this fine sight, the landlord drove us to the sanatorium, a distance of about two miles. Here I crossed the first stream of hot water, here I saw the first geysers, here I saw the first mineral baths. Unfortunately, the famous Crow's Nest geyser was not playing when we passed through Taupo, but it is reported that it started in honour of the Governor. The sanatorium is situated! in a small, but pretty valley. Neat little rooms have been built for visitors, and a luxurious Maori whare of precious, carved wood, and tastefully decorated, has been turned into a dining room. It is a novel idea, and it produces a charming effect. A nioe little garden, with many winding paths, and seats under every tree or in every corner, makes this spot as pleasant as you can find. It is an oasis in the desert, However attractive Taupo may be, I am told that Wairak.ei, six miles further on the Kotorua road, "affords a still greater variety of wonders for the enjoyment of travellers, and therefore I decided to spend the Wednesday in that locality. * Leaving the. Taupo Hotel at 9 a.m., we crossed the Waikato, which at that place is about 70 feet deep ; we follow its banks for about 3 miles, until we come to a weird spot, a delicious piece of soenery, Here also a magnificent speptacle presents itself to our view, a beautiful waterfall \n the "Waikato. The river is confined fop some 300 yards between two precipitous walls, a cleft in the eternal rock, scarce 18ft, wide. Through this narrow chasm ■fche deep blue water swirjs and foams and surges with terrific force until jt breaks with a fearful roar over a steep precipice into the widened pool 30ft. below. A footbridge s.pans the river about half- way ■between the Falls and the upper reach, and standing on it, one can watch the waters as tfyey ruslj. in their mad course, a spectacle which is not easily forgotten. What a splendid shower-bath has thus been prpvfded by nature for the tired traveller 1 Half-an-hqur later, we reacji Wairakej, anpther oasis in the desert, another green and charming spot in the ;midst pf manuia scrub. The hotel 'Stands in a pretty garden, laid iout witb^ shrubberies, flowers, fruit trees, and shady avenues, and ig equated -close to the banks of th§ Jpyjobinejiai, a hot stream between 90 and 110 degrees, which flpws into the' Waikato river. Alqng its course there areseyerpl Falls, wnipjh form patural and delicious shpwer-baths, which can be enjoye4 ty *k, e vuitoy, without any feai of being disturbed. This alsnV would make Wairakei mott seductive. 'Almost the fiyst people I met on my arrival were the Messrs £ePrpn of Timaru. They were biding it on a tandem between Auckland *n4 Wellington. The landlord fC&rcejy gajye us thng/to greet each otjier,

but hurried us to the Aratiatia Ripids, again on the Waikato river. Although the Fall may not present as line a spactacle as the Huka, the Rapids are perhaps still more awe-inspiring, as the river here also is confined between the rocky banks, rushes along at a furious rate, and is torn into a foaming mass by the boulders and rocks -which obstruct its course. The calm poola on both sides of the river are covered with pretty pumice stones, which are brought from Lake Taupo. Had I known that I was not to return that way, I would have filled my bag with these useful articles. By far the moit interesting spot in the locality is the Geyser Valley, which is situated about a mile from the hotel. This valley, which is not unlike Kelcy's Bush, is lined on both sides by two precipitous banks or bills about 60ft., sometimes 100 ft., in height, and is beautifully wooded and carpeted with the choicest ferns and mosses. Oh ! but the deception of that weird spot. The more it is alluring, the more it is dangerous ; the more beautiful the appearances, the more deceitful and dangerous they are. These apparently safe carpets of beautiful moss cover up the most dangerous boiling or Steaming holes. You think you may walk securely, but all of a sudden you may disappear into the burning, in, fernal regions below. I will not attempt to describe the action of the geysers. They are quite different from what I had imagined them to be. You discover their situation by the clouds of hot steam rising intp the sky. Fancy a hole, hewn in the hard rock, sometimes {sft., sometimes 70 or lQOft. in diameter. Its borders pr lips ape cragged, covered with incrustations sometimes black, sometimes white, pink or yellow, hole is often full of boiling water, at other times the water disappears. All at once a rumbling noise is heard,, the water rises, it boils furiously, soon is thrown up in enormous quantities tq a height of 4, 10, 15, and Bometjmes 40ft., and then as if exhausted by that mighty effort; it calms down, disappears, to commence again in 2, 4, 5, or 8 minutes. Yes, this is really a wonderful country, where something new is to be seen at every step. At last Thursday morning comes and the coach is ready. Fifty miles more of a dreary, uninteresting, manuka-covered country and we shall arrive p,t Eptorua. ' "What a, journey for one supposed to be sick and in need of rest! After an uninteresting drive of about 25 miles we pull up at the door of the Atiamuri hptel, where the, landlady, without any 'pretensions to fashionable decorations, gives us_ a rqeal which is as delicious as it is substantial. This ig again a weird spot pn the banks of the Waikatd anft'not at* all 'devoid of wild and rugged grandeur. The most interesting feature of the landscape is a solitary pyramid," a detached rock; Pohaturoa, which is somp 800 ft.'in height. : Of pourse it is the subject of < many Maori 'legends. As we advance, -we pass : by a number of rgpks of |he most fantastic shapes and

formations. On our left we leave the abrupt escarpment of the Horo Horo Bange, the highest point of which is 2436 ft. above the sea level, and on our right we admire the cone-shaped Haparangi, 2436 ft., and the Moerangi, 2440 ft. About this place we come near the Oruanui Creek. One of our fellow-passengers begins to smack his lips at the sight of the nicelooking drink which awaits him, when to his disappointment, he beholds a notice with the heading " poison " written in black letters. This creek has indeed the reputation of being highly poisonous, its waters being charged with arsenic. Why did not our driver allow that man to go and drink *nd rid us of his presence ? From Taupo he never stopped talking for a minute.' His voice, loud, harsh, hard and sounding like a broken cymbal, kept grating on our ears, hammering on our nerves, until we were all fagged out, weary and ready to die. How we did count the minutes before reaching Kptorua ! Still, there is an end to every torment, and as wq go on, passing soyeral Maori villages, we reach the heights surrounding Botorua and discover in the distance the Whakarewarewa geysers and fumaroles, and beyond, lake Botprua, with Mokoia Island lying in its midst, like a bouquet thrown in a small ocean, I shall not trouble you with a description of Botorua. It can be found in the New Zealand Year Book. Let it suffjce to ' say that the town will one day be one of the loyeliest places in New Zealand. At present it is still in its infancy and not very attraotiye. Perhaps the elements are more to' blame than the place or its surroundings. During our stay of fcbout three weeks, we have had three or four fhie days, the others were cold, windy, q-nd showery. ' It wag almost impossible to venture outside for an hpur without getting a drenching. We -yere told, by way of apolqgy, I suppose, that the least pleasant months of the year in Botoru* »re August, September, and Octobep. The new township, which is situated about ,» mile frpm the old Ohinemutu, is increasing every day, new hotels, bpardinghouses, and shops are cpnstantly springing up, new streets are laid gut in the most approved style, q,nd lined by rows pf fine trees. At' the principal entrance pf the immense Botorua park, and near thg renowned Blue,. Rachel and Priest's Baths, there is a sanatorium for invalids, /which is not unlike, our beautiful Wai. mate Jfospital in appearance. The grounds in front are tastefully, laid put with many winding paths, flow«r :^eds, shrubs, and trees of every description, artificial geysers, , and, lawn "tennis courts, the work of a Frenchman, M. C. Malfroi. Dr Baker, pj Tau, ranga, _. is,-, in , charge -of ■_ th£ ' ' Sanatorium. ■ His vast experience* and kjpdji* ness have made him . a 'general' faypurite ■both, jw.ith^ visitors ,-,ancL the ,mhabitjinjjs of the " pljMse. \lAlthpugh ' t*he season^ is only comjn^ncmgj'thejre' is pouring into the town't a jfoi3itant 'stream of visitors, which Jaily- Increasing.:' Tbej'gorrie

from all parts of the world, some in search of ple&sure, others in search of health. Both can be found here amongst the natural wonders which surround us. Nothing indeed can be more wonderful and more likely to satisfy those nmnerous visitors' craving for excitement than the steaming streams and springs, the boiling holes, the hissing jets which issue from a thousand fissures, the boiling pools of mud with their black, gretnish, pink or yellow colour, the uncanny noises which are heard at frequent intervals, and the sulphurous odours winch arise from the ground. These hot spring* are certainly remarkable for their medicinal properties, but visitors should not 'use them indiscriminately. It is always advisable to consult the medical superintendent. Splendid accommodations can be secured at the hotels and boardinghouses. The terms vary from 30s to four guineas. The visitor will always find kindness and every attention at Mrs Crowthers boarding-house, just opposite the sanatorium and a minute's wali from the bathe. On the Prince of "Wales's birthday, whilst everyone was preparing a luncheon basket for the great picnic across the lake which had been so long talked about, I took the train for Auckland. When leaving Rotorua we passed through a vast expanse of country, covered with manuka and withered feins, and with no particular beauty about it, but when we reached Ngongotaha, an elevation of 928 ft., and continued to as-, cend to Manaku, 1884 ft,, and until we came to the station of Ngatira, we traversed a? magnificent forest.clad plateau. Here the Now Zealand bush, when seen a short distance from the road, is to be found in its primeval beauty. At the foot of the giant tree grows the greatest variety of ferns. The wealth of the greenery to be seen here can be compared only to tho luxuriant yegetation of the South Sea Islands. We now begin to descend through desolate and uncultivated country until we reach Okoroire, a place also famous for its medicinal baths, and splendid sights. From Okoroire to Morrinsyille, the railway drive is through a fine block, a well-cultiyated plain of 55,000 acres, and surrounded by wooded hills. At Morrinsville we turn to the southwest, passing through a dreary scrub covered oountry, until Hamilton is reached. This is a really pioturesque spot, surrounded by bush-covered bills., It is situated at the confluence of the Waikatp and the Waipa. Here also tb» railway line crosses the famous Waikato, which remains more or less in sight of the traveller, for a considerable distance.' On leaving Huntly ahd again when we reach Mercer, the railway track runs parallel with the banks of theriyer, These places are, certainly picturesque, but miles of swampy and desolate country have also tq be traversed. During the last 40 miles of our journey t(5 Auckland, we, passed through a beautiful , and fertile country, well cultivated andyd v thickly, populated. Orchards seem to. be a particular feature - of the many villages which are to be f puna, between Pukekohe and Auckland. We, spent a. night in Auckland. ; j^om'New Plymputb to "Wanganui, the J air," was - cpjd and the rain falling in torrents.' I spent two days in Wanganui,' and ~aiLe seeing the sighte I went to /Meaner /and spent three day's, spent a "night in Hafeft ings and another, at' Otaki; - and finallyj after a very enjoyable trip, l reached JWak mate >n November 25th \ t „ (( „•!, * "

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