A CRUISE TO THE CHATHAM ISLANDS.

West Coast Times, Issue 281, 17 August 1866, Page 1 (Supplement)

A CRUISE TO THE CHATHAM ISLANDS.

(abridged from: the otago daily times, aug. 1.) We started from Dunedin on the morning of Wednesday, May 30, to joiu the little schooner in which we were to make our voyage. There being no appearance of wind, we passed the night at Port Chalmers— that semi-amphibi-ous town, whose inhabitants seem to consi' t chiefly of sailors, snipe-handlers, boatmen, barmen, and bannaidens, and an eccentric barber, who has, quite naturally, transferred his services from Greenwich to Port Chalmers. Onthe afternoon of the Cth June, we experienced a strong breeze and rain, and at 4 a.m. (7th) the watch reported " rocks on the starboard bow." The rock, about a mile oft', proved to be the Pyramid, and we, some ten or twelve miles to the south and east of our reckoning, were running straight for Pitt Island. Fortunately, although dark, the night was not so dark as to prevent us clearly making out the rock. We put about on the port tack, and before daybreak sighted Wharekuri, the largest of the Chatham Islands. This island, in form an irregular triangle, measuring thirty-five miles in its greatest length, has an area of about three hundred thousand acres, a third of including a salt lagoon fifteen miles long, and numerous small lakes, is under water, The population now, according to a correspondent of the " Hawke's Bay Herald," amounted to 843, viz., white men (including colonial ti-oops), women, and children, 132 ; Maoris, 396; Morioris (the aborigines). 116; Hauhans, 199. There were, however, when we left the island, about 220 of the convict Hau-haus ; and I believe the Hawke's Bay correspondent's estimate of the whito population is excessive. I When I went on deck, about 9.00 .m. , we were entering a large open, ' Imost semi-circular, bay — Petre Bay — which seems to slice a large cantle, something in shape " like a glover's paring knife," out of the west side of the island. The land is rather low, in some places sloping to the water's edge, covered with brownish green vegetation — grass and stunted scrub — in others, terminating abruptly in redbrown earth and sandstone cliffs. On the north side of the bay are five more or less perfectly conical hills, apparently nearly equidistant from each other. The first impression, under this grey cloudy sky, is rather cold and bleak. We were no sooner at anchor off Waitangi (the principal European settlement), containing a fort, a Court House, and some half dozen cottages, built of timber or fern trees, than a party of Maoris boarded us. One old gentleman, with a very elaborately tattoed face and a highly self-satisfied manner, made himself especially agreeable, Toenga by name, he is brother to Wharepa Poki, the chief. The younger men do not tattoo ; some of them are tall handsome fellows, with open intelligent faces and brown complexions. They have agreeable manners, and shake hands with a pleasant frank smile, and sit down and drink to you with the quiet self-possession of men of society. We were hospitably received at the house of Mr , storekeeper, where we found Maoris, men and women, in various stages of dirt and tattoo, squatted round the kitchen fire, lighting their pipes, gossdpping, and making themselves quite at home. Under the guidance of an intelligent youth (Wiremu Wharepa, son of old Wharepa), who spoke tolerable English, we visited a village, or rather " Clachan," as the Highlanders have it, of Hau-hau prisoners. The convicts are allowed their freedom, and are supplied with rations by the New Zealand Government, who employ them to a certain extent in building the fort and other works. At present they arc occupied in erecting whares for their own accommodation. The huts, built of fern trees, and thatched with flax, contain only one room, in which might be seen men, women, and naked " picaninnies " huddled together. They have only one very small window, and a low door in the gable, and are consequently dark and very badly ventilated. As I had never seen a Maori oven in operation, I thought myself fortunate in arriving at the hour for cooking the evening meal. The artiste on this occasion was a smiling damsel, with the fine dark eyes and the raven hair of her race. She seemed flattered by the interest we evinced in the process, which was as follows :—ln: — In a hole in the ground, in front of the whare, a fire was kindled, and when it burnt brightly, covered with large sfones. In the meantime, the young lady, with a sharp shell, scraped clean skit of potatoes, and with the same implement, dexterously removed the scales from a couple of snappers. The stones being quite hot, they were plentifully sprinkled with water, to create steam, and the potatoes were thrown in, then another dash of water, and the fish, wrapped in fern leaves, followed the potatoes; damp flax mats were quickly piled over all, and in about an hour, I believe, supper should be ready. Next morning, my friend and the captain of the schooner started to view the boundaries and judge of the capabilities of the land my friend was to report on. As I was not in strong health, I only accompanied my friends (who intended to camp out, and this in the winter season, and without a tent) for a mile or two on their way. With Nga Ihakara, one of the owners of the land and our guide on the journey, y?q orogsed the Waitangi river to

the pah, where we were received as uav\l, -witli smiles and hand-shakings. Our guide took leave of his friends in the legitimate manner — rubbing noses ; but in company of Europeans the Maoris seem to take considerable pride in the accomplishment of shaking hands. Any dishevelled, unwashed, and greasyblanketed old gentleman or lady whom yoxi may never have seen in your life before, will seize you by the fist with the warmth and empressement of an old friend ; fortunately they prefer the new fashion to that of their ancestors. As we left the village, a pretty girl, twelve or fourteen years of age, ran into one of the huts. She was evidently half-caste, and remarkably fair. Her long hair, dishevelled, and dirty enough it must be owned, was brown, her eyes blue, and her face in no small degree freckled by the sun. It was curious to see the refined, unmistakeably European features among a horde of savages, some of whom, her daily companions, were probably not unacquainted with the mysteries of a cannibal feast. She seemed quite happy, however, and I daresay had no idea that she was by inheritance a step nearer civilization than her friends. Passing the little church, built, I believe, by Dutch missionaries, our path led us over a strip of rich grass land, bordering the Waitangi, a considerable stream, then through a wood, mingled here and there with fern trees, and intei twined with supplejacks. Now the country becomes bare and gradually j rising, until we get sight of the great salt lagoon. Here we see, stretching before and around us, a wide undulating moorland. The hills are covered with coarse grass, rushes, arid fern, which, at a distance, have much the color of brown heather, although not so rich ; still, were it not for the peculiarly New Zealand features of numerous clumps of flax plants from six to ten feet high, one is much reminded of a Highland moor ; and for a moment or two, I don't think a rising " cove)'" would have much suprised me. Here I left my companions, and returned alone to Waitanga. A few small birds constituted all the animal life I saw in my walk. One little fellow, about the size of a wren, amused me by his inquisitive tameness. He was perched ou a twig near the ground, when I stopped to look at him, whence he hopped to a better post of observation, studying me very attentively, with his head on one side, and occasionally whistling a note or two. Not quite satisfied, he flitted to a flax stalk, from which he got a side view, and there I left him perched, so near me that I might almost have caught him in jny hat, in the old butterfly-hunting fashion, His plumage was black, with a white spot on each wing and on the forehead, the breast pale, rathei washed-out looking yellow. I picked up some shells, principally of the " paua," or as our sailors call it, the " mutton fish." The shell has a fine lustrous nacre ; the fish is black in color, and the Maoris say " kaipai " to eat : — at least so said my informant, with whom I entered into conversation ou the beach. He spoke English well, and was a gool-looking fellow enough, but bore marks of scortula, according to Dr Thomson a very common complaint among the Maoris. He was very anxious to buy a pair of braces — surely a marked symptom of advancing civilisation. 'Apropos of shell gathering, my friend wandering in the bush picked up several skulls, which are said to be, and no doubt are, Morion, skulls — relics of the Maori conquest. The next day, Sunday, 10th June it rained, and was very cold, and I felt a little anxious for the comfort of our rather scantily provided travellers. I strolled along the beach on the west side of the bay, over platforms of rock and large boulders, under fine sandstone cliffs, waterworn to the summit, bare in some places, in some covered in green bush, and at the more exposed points seaworn into fantastic caves. Under an overhanging cliff I observed Avhat I took to be patches of seaweed, but which, on examination, I found to consist of an agglomeration of black iiies— "Kelp flies" they are called here — crowded together, and over each other, in irregular patches, for a distance of about fifteen or twenty yards, all on about the same level. On the 10th we had a 'gale, which gradually increased in violence ; and of the three vessels in harbor (one steamer and two schooners) one schooner, held by two anchors and a hawser to the shore, broke the hawser and one chain cable, and, but for the assistance she received from the ss. St. Kilda, might probably hare gone ashore. The anchorage is good, but with a S.W. gale there is very little shelter in Waitangi Bay.

On the 11th my friends returned, not a little fatigued by an arduous march in very unfavorable weather, aud over a very difficult country, through innumerable swamps and almost impenetrable bush. Their commissariat and blankets were of the lightest, and to add to the desagremens of the expedition, Sunday morning Avas ushered in by a dense fog and drizzling rain, in which tho party lost their way. The excellent Nga Ihakara, however, was invaluable as a guide, philosopher, and friend, and quartered his ground like a pointer, until he scented out the path again. My friend fouud the lakes well stocked with wild ducks, and in the woods magnificent pigeons (kupapa), and no doubt regretted that he had not taken a gun with him.

The open country is generally covered with fern, flax, herbs, occasionally grass, and patches of thick scrub. A tree, with a leaf like the laurel, on which the cattle feed and fatten, is very

common. It imparts an agreeable flavour to the milk and butter. Several of the smaller New Zealand trees and shrubs are indigenous, but no pines or largo trees of any kind. The soil generally is of a peaty nature, in some places a soft, brown clay. It is very rich, and after clearing and draining, might probably produce almost anything suitable to the climate of these latitudes. By fencing-in paddocks, and laying down English grass, sheep may succeed— at present, of course, on a small seale — but there is little of the country, and that in small patches, naturally fitted for their depasture. Cattle, pigs, poultry, garden fruits, and vegetables succeed admirably. Wheat and maize are grown, and potatoes in perfection. Among the wild plants is a lily, which, I believe, is peculiar to the island.

At present the few settlers have very little market for their produce. Their only communication with New Zealand is by a Iri -monthly Government steamer and occasional small coasters, who come to load with potatos, pigs, aud poultry. But with increased immigration and communication with the mainland, I believe the Chatham Islands may soon bp able to carry on a profitable trade in the produce above mentioned. The Government steamer St. Kilda, arriving' with 50 Hau-hau prisoners, we decided to take the opportunity of returning with her, via Wellington. Several of the chiefs were to be our fellowpassengers, bound for Taranaki, to negotiate a sale of land there, the property of their tribe. Before our embarkatiou, I presume in honour of the chiefs, the Maoi'is got up a war dance. They divided themselves into two parties, Hau-haus and Chatham Maoris. In lieu of a musket, each held a stick in the right hand, aud with the exception of a waist-cloth, most of them were stripped to the buff. The two sides being drawn up in order, a Chatham champion, carrying a carved staff surmounted with scarlet wool, advanced at a half danchig step, at the same time making a very animated speech, accompanied by fierce and hideous contortions of his tattooed face ; at a fixed point between the two parties, he turned, walked back in silence, advanced again vociferating, retired in silence, and so on. The speech, which is evidently meant to taunt the enemy to action, is thus divided into short sentences. A Hau-hau chief now " takes the floor," as an Irishman would say ; then th c two sides danced rapidly forward to meet each other, to the tune of a loud chanting song, not inharmonious, making frightful grimaces to inspire the enemy with terror, lolling out their tongues as far as possible, showing their teeth, and (especially the women) opening their eyes, till they appear to be ready to drop from their sockets. The motions of the dancers are as uniform as those of soldiers on drill, but rather more extravagant. This, apparently, may be continued ad libitum, until, like a waltzing young lady and her, perhaps, less enthusiastic partner, one or both parties are exhausted. We remarked that the Chatham Maoris, who of course have taken no part in the New Zealand war, seem to have forgotten their steps, while the Hau-haus were in perfect drill.