A TOUR TO THE GREY GOLD. FIELDS.

West Coast Times, Issue 76, 28 November 1865, Page 2

A TOUR TO THE GREY GOLD. FIELDS.

(from our special reporter.) No. 3. — Township of (xbeymoutii, Sunday, Nov. 19.

I date this letter from tho Township of Greymouth, so named in contradistinction to the two hotels and one store called Blake Town, which is tho first you come to travelling from Hokitika, and the picturesque little town of Cobden, sittiated on tho north bank of the Groy, in tho Province of Nelson, opposite to Greymouth. West Coast weather is the prevailing feature just now, heavy storms of hail and ram having swept over the town during tho past two days and nights, tho township in consequence being in a state of mud unparalleled. Tho river, which under tho most favourable circumstances is anything but peaceably iuolincfl, is now, through tho lato heavy rains, in a perfect state of fury and flood, hurrying past tho town at ton knot speed, causing such a boil aud oommotion whoro it joins the ocean sufßciont to mako tho hair of any careful old shipmaster stand on end with horror. All

communication by water between Greyniouth and the different depots of stores up the rivor has, through the heavy fresh, ceased pro tern., and the street in consoquenco is filled with miners and boatmen waiting for the flood to subside, to enable them to return once more to their respective occupations. A very pretty trade is driven on the river by the latter, although taking into consideration tho hardships they endure, and the extremo risk they encounter, whatever money they make is hardly won. And not only is Greymouth, through the weather, cut off from her outlying districts, but the traffic with Hokitika is suspended, several merchants from the latter place being obliged to remain where they are through tho impassable stato of the Teramakau, which, on Saturday last, stuck up thatdoughty traveller " Flowers, the mailman," and quite/ a host of pedestrians besides, causing that useful though noisy and somewhat pertinacious member of society, tho newspaper runner, to sit in silence sad on its southern bank, and moodily devour that intelligence he had trusted to have disserai. nated amongst the Grey communityGreat is the disappointment at this witholding of information other than local, and old newspapers, in consequence, have risen to a premium, being fossicked out from odd corners where thcy^ had been thrown in disgust, to assist in killing that time which, under such untoward circumstances, drags along so heavily. Even I, youv unfortunato "Special," being quite overcome by that weariness of soul usually attendant upon tho delightful occupation of looking through the murky panes at the passing showers, in despair seized a paper close at hand and commenced an earnest perusal of its columns ; suddenly I started, and had the curiosity to examine the heading, when, in clear characters, that spoke loudly in favor of the excellence of the type used by that journal (considering the excessive handling this particular " rag" had received), I read : " Leader, Hokitika, October 13th." Softly I laid down the precious production, in despair made a dash at the door and sallied out into tho street, to drink my fill of the wonders aud beauties of Greymouth ; to gaze at the noble wharf that should have been there had the Canterbury Government onlyfollowed the examplo of Nelson in constructing works of public utility ; and tho small fleet of shipping lying in front of tho town, their masts at every conceivable angle of inclination through the vessels grounding at low water. In spite of the inclemency of the weather, that militates so considerably against tho duo appreciation of tho beauties of nature, I wns particularly strnck with the scenery surrounding the Grey lUvor, it being exempt from that monotonous flatness peculiar to the country round Hokitika, the coast range here approaching closer to the sea, being also much higher and bGtter defined than it is further south. The river issues from the interior through a magnificent break in the range, the hills on each side rising boldly and abruptly from tho stream to tho height of five hundred feet, and are densely wooded from summit to base — the similarity in shape and height existing* between them being something remarkable. Close under the ono is built the town of Cobden, whilst on tho opposite bank the town of Greymouth rears its modest head, which latterly, however, has assumed to itself a certain amount of pride. Looking through this break in the lango a scene most beautiful greets the eye — a perfect panorama of low country being spread out — at the back of which, in the distance, the ranges avo again to be seen, and the gorge through which the river pursues its headlong course from the snowy range, that in tho far back ground is piled hill upon hill, caped with perpetual snows. The town of Groymouth is built upon the south bank of tho river, and certainly Avell situated, at present consisting of one long street that reaches nearly from the range to the lagoou, and runs parallel with the river. The usual description of stores and hotels that are to be found in a young, rising, digging township, are met with here, the most of them being built upon piles to avoid too close connection with the ground that in wet weather is somewhat marshy. At the back of tho town it falls away towards tho lagoon, and tho country immediately to the south is exceedingly marshy, being intersected by the above lagoon which drains a very large extent, receiving as tributaries six or seven creeks that run down from the hills. It is the haunt of abundance of wild fowl, and good sport is to bo had by those adventurous enough to explore its recesses in a boat whenever the weather will permit, which, truth to tell is but Bdldom ; shooting in a perpetual shower, even to tho most enthusiastic votary of field sports, being anything but a recreation. This lagoon discharges a considerable stream into the Grey, and separates Blake from Grey town, the two places being connected by a 'long bridge, erected by private enterprise, that must be returning remarkably good interest on tho time and money expended on its construction. Grey town is peculiarly a diggers' township every preparation being mado for the reception of gentlemen from tho mines with heavy purses that require lightening. The hotels havo imposing fronts, their bars being extensive, and woll found in all kinds of liquors, and nearly all of them profess to board travellers, although tho lodging point of tho arrangement has, apparently, not yot been thought of. I was perfectly astounded on tho night of my arrival, when, after satisfying the inward man at ono of tho above establishments, I mado enquiries concerning tho horizon-

tal entertainment the house afforded, and was informed that none existed, and it was doubtful if I should find a bed in town. I was, however, fortunate enough to stumble across an odd corner in tho Royal Hotel where I reposed my weary limbs, and which I havo taken remarkable care to retain as my private property for tho time being. The wholesale and retail stores are apparently well stocked, and do an excellent trade. Some of them are merely branches from Hokitika establishments, but the majority I believe to be essentially Grey. A steadier and more profitable trade is driven hero than in Hokitika, business houses being comparatively few. Such a Utopian state of things will not continue long however, the carcase having beon scented from afar by those eagles who are already hastening to secure their share of it. I find the Grey community intensely Anti-Hokitikian, the prevailing feeling being that they have not only been neglected, but systematically swindled out of their just dues. They affirm that Hokitika has striven by every possible means tc advance herself at the expense of the Grey, deliberately burking every attempt of the latter to push herself forward and take that position her merits entitle her to. They, however, console themselves with the reflection that they have now a paper of their own, that will champion thencause, make known their wants, and go forth to do battle with that iniquitous production,^ totally devoid of merit or originality, " the West Coast Times I have had the pleasure of perusing the first two issues of the Grey River Argus, and a most creditable, well got up paper it is, and one that I feel sure will be of immense benefit to the Grey community, who, it is to be hoped, will thoroughly support it, and not look upon a printer's account as a bare-faced robbery, and one not to be paid. The proprietors have had no slight difficulty in getting fairly started, but having triumphantly overcome the prelimnary difficulties of their undertaking, will I hope, have an uninterrupted career of prosperity, so success to the Grey River Argus, say I. I now approach a subject that causes m 3 the most exquisite apprehension lest I handle it too roughly, and bring down upon myself the indignation of a whole community, for I am about toenter into a dissertation of the relative merits of the Grey and Hokitika rivers and bars, and shall begin by the daring assertion that, taking them all the year round, there is not the toss of a penny piece between them. The former is certainly a splendid river, possessing many advantages which that of Hokitika does not, it being much longer, deeper, and having a far more direct run out to sea. It is, however, subject to moro sudden and violent flooding than the latter, and as the current during the freshets runs with great velocity, and a very heavy sea tumbles home on this part ot the coast, it is an impossibility for vessels to enter the river at such times without running extraordinary risk. Never during my residence in Hokitika and its vicinity did I see such a tremendous current in its river as that which has during the past two days been scouring the channel of the Grey, keeping the Wallaby a prisoner in the river, and causing the wreck of the s.s. Uno on Saturday morning last, on her attempting to enter. The river, moreover, has not at all times a straight run out to sea, occasionally running to the north and south and at particularly unfavorable seasons, when it is low the surf overpowers and divides it into three parts, all running in different directions to the sea, which in consequence throws up such a high bar that at low water could be (wore it not for the surf) safely walked acros9. There is also another disadvantage thatthe Grey labors under, viz., that those vessels unfortunate enough to suffer shipwreck either entering or departing, are generally cast ashore some distance to the northward of the flagstaff, quite a quarter of a mile from the river, which distance thoy have to traverse ere they can be re-launched, and the expense attending such an undertaking is generally more than shipowners care about undergoing except in extreme cases. Take the Nelson for example : there she lies a complete wreck, and although tenders have been called for to set her once more afloat, many needy men aro knocking about who would only be too glad to turn an honest penny, the lowest tender that has yet been offered amounted to tho large sum of £1250. In this respect, also, Hokitika is superior to the Grey, for the distance across her fatal spit is so small, and our men have become such adepts at transporting vessels as to think nothing of removing a two hundred ton craft for a reasonable consideration. Tho chief advantage possessed by the Grey is the formation of the spits, which, instead of being composed of sand and light gravel like those of Hokitika, are nearly all heavy shingle, which is much firmer and offers far more resistance to both sea and fresh ; for although the river takes a sweep just before joining the sea, and consequently runs with full force against the face of the South spit it has not the slightest effect upon it, its position and appearenco being the samo now as it was twelve months ago ; nnd as the bar itself is formed of the same material, there is very much less probability of its being silted up of W., and S.W*, winds than that by Ilokitika. Taking tho Grey all the year round, thero is a trifle moro water on its bar, and the entranco is somewhat superior to that of Hokitikfc in this respect, and also it usually straighter. I very much doubt, however, if tho furious current in tho river, combined with the heavy sod outside)

does not bring it on a par with Hokitika. Very little good will result to either of the ports in squabbling over the relative merits of the two rivers, for certainly both have their disadvantages. The respective communit ties should rather banish these petty local jealousies so detrimental to their best interests, as tending to weaken and preVent their offering resistance to the selfish policy of Christchurch, which is felt even to a greater extent at the Grey than by us, and has caused a correspondingly greater amount of indignation and hatred. I was surprised at the bitterness of this feeling existing among all classes here, comparisons between Nelson and Canterbury being drawn, to the decided disadvantage of the latter, for it is said — and with justice too — that although Nelson receives little or no benefit from the goid-fieltls of the Grey, the richest portions of which are situated on her own territory, she has out of her own slender resources done far more towards improving it than her sister, who has done next to nothing. The miners are particularly indignant, and curse the Christchurch community with a hearty good "will. They wonder the Nelson folk don't devise means whereby they might secure the escort for their own gold-field, and not permit the other such an exclusive monopoly of that which they have the greatest right to, vowing that if they did not a single half ounce oT their money should find its way into Christchurch pockets. I think that the ill-feeling at present existing amongst our Grey brethren against us of Hokitika will soon wear off, and that the necessity of united action will be recognised, and the Press of both places unite to cement the bonds of the heartiest good-will between their respective communities. They can't afford to squabble — at least not at present, all their energies being required to resist Christchurch, and when they have succeeded in humbling her, it will be time enough should any differences then exist to strip and fightf airly over them. In the meantime, a long, strong, and united pull is the policy they should adopt. Far be it from me to detract from the merits of the Grey. It is a most important district and rising rapidly, possessing great natural advantages, that by a liberal and judicious expenditure of ready cash might be vastly improved. The construction of tracts into the interior would be the means of developing many a» goldfield at present hidden by swamp and bush. A connecting link between Grey and Hokitika should also be constructed in the shape of a tramway which is a necessity, and would besides be helping to develope the resources of the intervening country, in which valuable seams of coal aro known to exist, and render us independent of our present precarious inter-communication . To obtain a moiety only of those good things which are a necessity to our present and future well-being, increased representation in tho Canierbury Council should be our first demand, which if not acceded to should be followed by a united effort to obtain separation.