THE TOTARA DIGGINGS.

West Coast Times, Issue 49, 26 September 1865, Page 2

THE TOTARA DIGGINGS.

The development of tho country in tho immediate vicinity of tho river Totara and Donnelly's Cr*\ok during the past two months has proved, beyond doubt, that it is one of tho most important gold bearing districts hitherto discovered on the West Coast ; and although in that space' of timo a very largo community has settled there, and many hundreds of mon have paid it a visit, the public generally can form but vague ideas of its position, features,

true importance, and future prospects. We have, therefore, much pleasure in laying before our readers the report of our special who has just returned from thence. We trust it will not be unacceptable, and that it will help to direct, in their future movements, the lurge number of new arrivals that aro daily flocking to our shores :—: — The startling accounts that have lately reached Hokitika of heavy finds and rich deposits of gold in Jones' Creek and its neighbourhood induced me to visit the locality, and report thereon, with a view, if possible, of enabling those who have not had an opportunity of judging for themselves, to form a correct estimate of its absolute worth; and I must confess thot I was both surprised and delighted at the natural beauties of the country I travelled over during my short journey, and somewhat astonished at the rapid progress mado by our indefatigable miners in converting that which but the other day was an almost impenetrable forest into a flourishing settlement and gold producing district. It is usually understood that the Caledonian rush, or Jones' Creek, is situated some twenty miles to the south of Hokitika, that the road to it is along the sea beach, and is devoid of interest or peculiarity of feature, save that which is over attached to the restless sea, breaking in long lines of surf upon the shore, and certainly it must be confessed that after leaving the boat which ferries one across the Ilokitika, the seven or eight miles to bo travelled over ere the lagoon is reached, is not remarkable for diversity of scenery or pleasant walking — sand, nothing but sand ; to the right is the broad sea beach, and to the left the way is bordered by an impenetrable scrub, faced in many places by large patches of native flax bush. The only objects that break the monotony of the walk are the wrecks of the Glasgow, schooner, and steamer Waipara ; the first is situated some two miles and a-half from the Hokitika, and to all appearance is a complete wreck, that some day will be broken up for the sake of her copper and iron; right opposite to her is a shanty where the usual accommodation to be found in such places is afforded the traveller. Humble as these places are, to the weary pedestrian they are a great boon ; tea and coffee is generally procurable, and something stronger if you wish it, and although their dimensions are none of the largest, some day perhaps tho spirited proprietors may find it necessary to erect substantial liotols over the present calico makeshifts, should the South, which is at present in every one's mouth, only turn Diit according to the expectations formed of it. The sea beach will be a a;reat highway, and flanked at intervals by houses of accommodation worthy tho namo. Four miles further and the Waipara is reached ; she is now in |a forward state for re-launching ; in a iveek or two she will bo ready, and the [irst favorable opportunity that presents itself of wind off shore, and smooth sea will doubtless see her once more afloat; hero is situated another coffee house. Two miles farther on, and the head of the Lagoon is reached, on the side of ivhicli a small settlement, consisting of jome half dozen refreshment tents is formed. This is a waterman's and packers' settlement, as well as place of call for the digger on the tramp. A number of boats are hero collected in readiness for passengers who prefer a delightful trip t>y water to 8 miles of heavy walking dii tho beach, or for the transportation af goods intended for the use of miners xt the new field. Packers, however, generally make use of tho {land passage to avoid the charge of half-a-crown per cwt. charged for freight. This lagoon is most extensive, and is formed by the river Totara, whose outlet to tho sea has in former times been blocked up there, damming tho water back and hooding a very large extent of country ; it extends a considerable distance inland, and is intersected by numerous islands. Perhaps it would bo more correct to say that tho land is intersected by numerous channels, as in no part is tho lagoon more than two hundred yards wide. I very much doubt if it has ever been thoroughly explored, as days would be rcquirod to visit each inlet, and become even partially acquainted with its many hidden beauties. Like every other part of the coast the vegetation bordering it is rank and luxurious, and would require the unsparing use of tho tomahawk to ponotrato its recesses. Wild fowl abound here, teal especially, flocks of which aro to bo seen resting on tho placid surface of tho water, rising only on the near approach of the boat. In tho bush, kakas, tui, and paroquets, literally swarm, and the clear musical notes of tho New Zealand thrush add to the charm of tho scene, and causes tho mind to revert to bygone days and i ther lands. Residents in Ilokitika littlo know what a source of recreation is here to be fonnd; in fine weather, it is admirably suited for picnic parties, and duving tho sporting season sportsmen would find ample employment for dog and gun ; at tho present time tho birds aro cither sitting or rearing their young, and no true votary of fiold sports would dream of disturbing, much less destroying them at such an interesting period. Tho birds aro, I should think, very forward this senson, as I observed many young teal that had evidently long broken shell, swimming about under tho bushes that fringe the side of tho lagoon. It is admirably adapted for regattas, there boing lots of room for sculling matches, and on a breezy day sailing craft might manoouvro to advantage, caro being requisite to avoid the snags which hero and there are to bo seen poking their

ugly heads out of the water. The morning on which I made my first excursion clown was wet in the extreme, not a blink of clear sky was to be seen, and to render matters still more uncomfortable twelve of us were crammed in a small waterman's boat ; she certainly was a little beauty, and pulled well, so that wo got over the eight miles of water much, sooner than I anticipated ; her captain, is certainly a favourable specimen of a colonial waterman, civil, obliging, and intelligent, and I can conscientiously recommend " the skipper," as ho is generally called by his fellows, to all passengers going that way. About two miles from the southend of the lagoon is its outlet into tho ocean — it here assumes the form of a river, and winds considderably before it finally discharges itself. After aboxit an hour's pulling wo arrived at the lower end, where the Totara may be said to first commence ; here there is another settlement, consisting of a few shanties and a ferry station for the convenience of those who walk down the beach; two shillings a head is charged to cross people to the Big Beach some four or five hundred yards up the river, whilst six is the fare paid for those who come the whole distance by water. Excepting those who really can't afford it, there are very few that do not patronise the lagoon, and enjoy a cosy row or sail, as the case may be. Another small settlement is formed on the Big Beach, which is weekly increasing in size, and here you leave the boat and trust to shank's mare for the remainder of tho journey. The Totaia is not by any means a large river ; it is shallow and can be easily forded by equestrians ; packers generally prefer travelling up the bed of it when it is not flooded, to dragging their horses through the muddy and intricate bush track that leads to Donnelly's Creek, but pedestrians are obliged to take the latter unless they are disposed to wade waist deep through tho deeper fords. A little above the Big Beach the river is crossed by means of a tree, thrown by the boatmen for the convenience of the public and their own profit ; it is provided with a hand-rail, and is very convenient Once across this and the disagreeable part of the journey begins — mud, swamp, supple jacks, and vines abound, and the pedestrian has to be wary in his movements or an ugly tumble is likely to be the result. After about a mile of this sort of road has been travelled, Donnelly's Creek is reached, into which yon at once plunge, and cross and rccross until you arrivo at what is termed the Dry Creek, where tho new track commences, and such a track ; ye gods ! I was astonished, absolutely up to one's knees and no mistake, and if not careful, to the middle instead. This is no exaggeration, and the Government are much to blame for allowing it to fall into such a state ; it was once pretty good, that is when first constructed, since when, however, the water from Jones' creek having been diverted from its original bed now finds its way right down it, and as everybody's business is no one's business the matter lias been neglected until the track, from tho constant and heavy traffic is next to impassable. It is really pitiable to see the \infortunate horses heavily laden, flounder through it, having to fairly leap for their lives to avoid some hole that we could not see but which their instinct told them was there. About a mile of this description of track is passed over and then the township of Ross is reached. I arrived there about half-past 3 p.m., and having, through the kindness of a friend been assured the blessing of a shake-down for a night or two, started, after refreshing the inward man, on a tour of inspection of the township. The range which bounds tho right hand, or west side, of Jones's Creek, here falls off and forms an extensive terrace, on which tbe town is built, immediately overlooking the flat into which the creek empties itself. It is not yet very extensive, the buildings being erected on one side of the street only, and it is very doubtful whether {he other side will ever be occupied, as it is too close to the edge of the terrace. This is conducive to good drainage, but exceedingly inconvenient for building purposes. There are only one or two stores there, worthy of the name, and not ono public house that is deserving of any other appellation than that of shanty. The Bendigo Hotel has the greatest pretention to the name, and, as a band of music, consisting of an ophicloido, cornet, and clarionet is engaged to play every evening in a good-sized room, with a floor laid, a goodly number of diggers congregate there and do tho " fantastic," if not very " light," arrangement nightly. The band commences operations by playing an overture, as a notice, I presume, for tho public to " roll up and be in time," and this is a signal to tho minors, who are camped in largo numbers at the back of tho town, to strike up also. I was perfectly actounded at tho volume of discordant sounds which grjeted the first few bars of tho opening piece, and can only compare it to the howling of a pack of wolves, interspersed with shouts of laughter, cat calls, Joe, and shrill whistles. Tho Germans, however, were not to bo put down, and John Diggor, apparently tired of his fruitless efforts, subsided into silcnae and the music continued uninterruptedly. I visited the danco room in. the course of tho evening and found it crowded ; a tolerable amount of money was spending, and several gentlemen wOl'e already in a state of beer and excitement. A master of ceremonies presided over tho festive scene, and put the uninitiated through their facings. A more varied assortment of muddy understandings it has not been my lot to wituoss for mauy a day, and tho floor in oonscqnenco was

soon made nearly as slushy as the street outside, rendering the use of chalk quite unnecessary ; in fact, a few ashed strewn about would have been more to the purpose. The Hebe who presided nt the bar of this establishment, was in great request as a partner, and as she was the only lady amongst some 150 gentlemen, the individual who was fortunate enough to secure her was a lucky fellow indeed, standing an inch beyond his ordinary stature as he took his place in the dance, making his preliminary bow in the quadrille with an air that was refreshing to contemplate. I stood there a short time and saw nothing take place that could be construed into a breach of tho peace, all were orderly and apparently enjoying themselves, but at about two o'clock in the morning, I was aroused by stentorian voices chaunting, in full chorus, "Old John Brown," and quiet had hardly been restored before a drunken row took place which ended in a general melee. These occurrences are considered as favorable inJications of the richness of a new gold-field, as the more drinking there is the more gold is supposed to be getting. A largo piece of ground has been cleared for the Camp on the west side of the town, and on Thursday last the first instalment of police, consisting of a sergeant and three constables made their appearance. There had been no preparations, howevei*, made for their icception, and as they had arrived a-head of their baggage, the consequence was that they were wandering about the township as night approached, looking for a place to sleep in. No pity, under any circumstances whatever, is usually extended to the unfortunate " traps, but, I believe, in this instance they deserved a little consideration, for the weather was disagreeable in the extreme, cold, and raining ; and camping out under such circumstances is unpleasant, and to be avoided if possible, even by the oldest ranger on tho West Coast. I must say that in this, as well as other matters, the Government have been dilatory in the extreme. A staff of polico should have been placed hero long ago, and a clerk, to issue business licenses and miners' rights. Many and loud were the complaints made by all classes here at the obstructions thrown in the way of procuring these very essential documents, and up to the present time there is no sign of a change. Police have been sent down, it is true, but no clerk has put in an appearance ; it is to bo hoped that this very necessary functionary will bo immediately appointed. The presence of a resident warden is also much needed; as the district is of sufficient importance to warrant even the most stingy government making the appointment. Serious disputes, both mining and touching business sites are of daily occurrence, and no means of their being decided save by club law or a visit by the disputants to Hokitika. (to be continued in ouh next.)

"Why, Bridget," said a lady who wished to rally her servant girl, for the amusement of tho company, upon the fantastic ornamenting of a. huge pie, "did you do this ? You're quite an artist; pray, how did you do it?"— lndade, mum, it was myself that did it," replied Bridget, "isn't it pretty? I did it with your falso teeth, mum."