NEXT WEEK’S GUIDE

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume 83, Issue 47, 25 February 1939, Page 13

NEXT WEEK’S GUIDE

THE FLOWER GARDEN. sow anemone and ranunculus seed. jlake sowings of biennials such as sweet williams, Canterbury bells, hollyhocks. Myosotis or forget-me-not sown now will flower this coming spring. Narcissi and daffodils should be lifted. Clean and dry the bulbs and store in a dry shed. Do not let the bulbs lie in the sun any longer than necessary for them to dry. Cuttings of dahlias made from the thin side shoote will root readily if planted in sand, kept moist and shaded. Disbud dahlias to get good blooms. Leave the central flower unless it is too early, in which case take the side flower. The early-planted dahlias which have flowered can be cut back fairly severely; this will force new growth from the base. Mulsch the dahlias and chrysanthemums. A rich compost containing a fair quantity of turfy soil is good. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. Lift the onion crop as the bulbs mature. Use the fork when lifting onions, so as not to damage the base, often a cause of decay in the bulb. Do not let the onions be in the sun longer than to dry thoroughly. Clean and store in a dry, airy shed. Spinach may be sown. A fairly large sowing can be made now, as this should last well into the winter. Plant out celery, shallow trenches only are required. Water and shade the plants for a few days after planting. Make a sowing of silver beet for winter use. Plantings of Brussels sprouts, cabbage and cauliflower can be made. These will do w ell on ground that has carried the onion crop. Make a sowing of dwarf beans. Pinch the tips of the runner beans before they reach the tops of the sticks. Spray tomatoes with arsenate of lead to control caterpillars. Spray cabbages and other greens with white oil and follow with a dusting of derris. THE FRUIT GARDEN. Stop the laterals of outdoor vines at the first or second leaf. Dust the vines with flowers of sulphur if mildew appears. Once the berries begin to colour <io no more stopping of the laterals. Give the stone fruit trees a light pruning after the fruit is gathered.

THE ART OF COMPOS! ING

IMPORTANCE OF SOIL FERTILITY

In our enthusiasm for the spel binding effects of artificial fertiliser v.e are apt to forget that fertility i the garden is rounded upon th amount of humus present in the soi Humus is the basis of all the chem cal and biological processes that rs suit in plant growth. Without it. art ficial fertilisers are useless.

In these days, when the forme common source—farmyard manureis none too plentiful or easy to ot tain, every gardener who wishes t maintain or build up the fertility o his soil should learn the art of com posting.

Compost heaps are an economical and ellicient way of preparing rich, oiack humus for the soil. They are composed of the waste organic matter of the garden, weeds, leaves, lawn mowings, vegetable trimmings, pea, bean and potato haulms, kitchen waste, etc. This vegetable matter, when decomposed, forms the most valuable ingredient a garden can have for making plants grow. First dig a trench one spit deep, about four feet wide, and as long as the size of the garden demands. For a garden of half an acre, a trench, four feet by six feet is ample. Pack the bottom of the trench firm, and place the top soil to one side. To Assist Decomposition Now 1111 in the trench with accumulated vegetable refuse. Coarse material should be shredded or chopped up with a sharp spade or hoe to facilitate decomposition. After each addition, moisten the vege.able matter well, and tread it down. There are three ways of encouraging decomposition. The simplest is to wet the organic matter thoroughly, and sprinkle each layer as it reaches a thickness of lour to six inches with soil. As the heap grows, taper it like a potato clamp, and at the end of the autumn enclose it in a jacket of soil. This compost heap should not be opened until the following spring, when it,, will have rotted to tine black humus.

A quicker way is to spread each layer of vegetable refuse with a one or two-inch layer of animal manure and a sprinkling of soil. After four weeks, the heap should be turned. If the weather is dry additional water should be added to speed up decomposition. Compost from such a heap is ready in about three months.

The third way is to sprinkle each layer ot added vegetable waste with a chemical decomposition accelerator, after we.ting the heap well. We can use one of the proprietary articles manufactured for the purpose. It is possible to prepare one's own accelerators, but so much depends upon correct balancing and technical details, that risk of failure Is greater than likelihood of economical achievement.

Every scrap of vegetable refuse can be made use of in this way—annual weeds, leaves, etc. Vegetables should be trimmed when gathered, and the surplus leaf and stalk added to the compost heap for return to the soil. In my own kitchen garden I have the paths sodded. It means a little more trouble keeping them in order, but I get a barrowful of mowings for my compost heap weekly. As the heap grows it is worth while having a wood-sided frame to fit the size of the trench and to pack the material in this. In this way, nothing is wasted, everything rots down, and the heap slices easily when the time comes to open it up and distribute it on the garden.—S.B.W., in Amateur Gardening.

CHRISTMAS LILY

Of all lilies, one of the commonest in New Zealand is the Lilium longifiorum, also known under the names of Christmas, Easter, and St. Joseph lily.

It is not surprising that a lily so universally grown has had many names applied to it. In New Zealand we have termed it the Christmas lily simply because it is in flower at that time. In England it is known as the Easter lily because the bulbs, which are imported in thousands from Japan and Bermuda and are now being sent in large quantities from South arrive in England in late autumn and early winter, are potted or bedded out under glass and are brought into flower for church decorations at Easter.

It is also known as Bermuda lily, whence it was introduced and grown commercially, the bulbs being exported to Europe for forcing purposes. South Africa has now taken up growing the bulbs for export, and naturally the result is that there has been evolved distinct forms different in growth and time of flowering. Here in New Zealand it is quite at home and blooms well, but it usually belittles its nom de plume of Christmas lily by flowering a few weeks too early. Either we have to raise a lateflowering variety or move the festive season forward!

Perhaps by our method of growing it entirely outside in a natural manner, we have produced an early-flow-ering sort, and it might be worthwhile for someone to introduce the true Japanese, South African and Bermudian varieties to see if it is not possible to get r. later-flowering variety. Our early-flowering variety might just fill a want in England and America. The main point to be considered in lilium growing is drainage. This must be good, but drought, or soil that dries out quickly, is fatal. Actually the type of soil is not of great moment, but a soil in which there is plenty of humus such as old leaf-soil or any vegetable refuse, suits it best.

Lilium longiflorum flowers about the beginning of December, and should be lifted and replanted soon after it has finished flowering. This would be about the end of January and the beginning of February. This principle should also be followed with most other lilies, that is, lift and replant as soon after flowering as possible.

Bulbs should be planted 9in. or lOin. deep, and if there is any doubt as to drainage, break up the subsoil with a fork and put a two-inch layer of coarse sand or scoria in the bottom and stand the bulb on this, then replace the soil.