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CHILDREN’S GARDEN CIRCLE

Dear Members, — First I must congratulate our members who assisted with exhibits at the National Show in New Plymouth. The work was of a very high standard and created a great deal of interest at the Show. I thought many members showed the real C.G.C. spirit when they rallied round and did such wonderful work. The C.G.C. exhibit was awarded a certificate of merit and from all sides praises were heard. I must specially thank all those good people who sent flowers along and helped with the loan of cars, etc. Also those good ladies who journeyed to New Plymouth and staged the exhibits. Well, members, the first excitement of “Baek to School’’ is over, and soon you will all be settling down to real study. Next month the C.G.C. activities will be renewed and demonstrations will be in full swing. I do hope all members will rally round and attend these demonstrations. Most of you have had your gladioli flowering and I have heard of many beautiful blooms grown by our members. Do take care of the plants and bulbs sent you as they have cost a great deal. And so to you all I wish a happy year in the C.G.C. Your gardening friend, “CARNATIO.”

Brunswick Road, 6/2/39.

Dear “Carnatio," — In last week’s notes I was very pleased that you have brought up the question as to the saving of seeds, mentioning as it being a very interesting hobby. I can fully confirm this and can go further in saying it is a scientific hobby, and far more interesting even than watching the development of the flowers from their budding stage until the full flower has developed. Many and varied are the manner in which various types of flowers bear their seed pods, and the different modes they have when coming to the ripening stage, showing that it is time they should be garnered; each pod having its own peculiarity. To our little members I should like to instance some of these. You will notice that most flowers grow in an upright position annd you will find that the seed pods do likewise, so one has to be very careful in the handling and collecting the seed. Some seed you collect in the full ripe stage, others it is necessary to take before ripening and to ripen by the sun’s rays. A few of these are given here. Take the antirrhinum. You will notice that there may be as many as 20 seed pods on the one stalk, and that the seed ripens in rotation from the bottom pod upwards, still leaving a number of green pods to ripen later. The ripe pod opens at the apex of the pod, a single, small round hole, which I generally term as its mouth. You must be very careful in handling these, as the pods adhere very strongly to the flower stem, and the least shake will dislodge the seeds in the top pods, thus loosing a great portion of them. The best method is to hold the top of the stem with one hand and with a gentle downward pressure take each ripened pod in succession, otherwise I the stem, being very tender and brittle, will break off and you loose the top undeveloped pods. Now. pansy and polyanthus seed must be treated differently, as they must be gathered before they are properly ripe and ripened in the sun; take thim when the pods are just showing a whitish colour, otherwise it left too long they will burst open of their own account and the seed will fly in all directions. This also applies in the case of violets. Delphiniums are prolific seed-bearers and you must be very careful not to shake the stem as the seed lie very loose in their caseing and are very easily spilled; the best, method is to hold some vessel directly underneath so that the seed may fa±l into it. The seed may also be pickeu before they ripen; this saves you loosing quite a lot, the green pods will ripen in the sun. Now, anenome and gerbera seed, also agathea and felecia should not be attempted to be hand gathered as they are so light and feathery that you sometimes lose more than, you gather. Just hold a bowl underneath and with a gentle tap with a small stick the seed win fall into the bowl. Stock and wallflower are of a different nature, their pods are in two divisions each separated by a thin partition; the seed! adhere very closely to their separate | divisions and are very persistent in, letting go. I generally pick before? properly ripe and separate each divi- ( sion by hand. Just make a downward press with your thumb nail at the base of each pod on each side and each division will come apart. Sweet William, you will notice, puts on large heads but the seed only ripen spasmodically, that is to say, a lew may be found ripe in the centre ol the head, the others remaining green. Just go round occasionally and shake the head over a bowl and you get a»l the seed which are ripe until you have got the whole head. There is no trouble in collecting Indian pinks, as they stand so upright on stiff stems and will remain in that position for quite a while, retaining the seed within their pods; just nip off with a pair of scissors and shake out; half ripe pods will ripen in the sun. Verbena seed should be garnered be-j fore they are quite ripe as this plant can be treated as an annual; it is better to lift the whole plant when it has finished flowering and showing plenty of seed pods and dry the whole in the sun; then separate the seed from the straw. The seed is very much like small pieces of stick, so don’t throw away before being certain you have retained them. Aqulegei needs no comment other than treat the same way as dephinium seed. Freesia should be picked as soon as the seed pods turn yellow. There are six to eight seed in each pod and before putting away give them plenty of sun to ensure their being in a properly ripened state, otherwise they will mildew and become useless. Freesia sown from seed do just as well as the cormlets and will flower the first year. It would be interesting for you to know that I had to pass an examination in the matter of a sensitive touch when seeking a position in the Propogating Department of the Melbourne Botanical Gardens, this being necessary, as you can imagine, when a very fine touch is required in the handling of tiny seedlings and the collection of seeds. Dear members, I hope the foregoing will induce you to try and save your own seed and those which. you have to spare to send along for distribution

“Laughing Princess.’’—Thank yoi for the snap. I will pop it in our big C.G.C. album. Always pleased l< hear about your garden. Yes, th, seeds will be posted. “Red Rose.”—The main varieties of carnations are Border, Margarel and Perpetual. Border carnations flower during November and .December. I’he flowering stalk comes from one of the tufts of grass and does not have any growth on it. In the other two varieties, new growth appears on the flowering stalk and if this growth is taken off and struck they will produce new plants. Margaret varieties flower through the winter and have a strong clove scent. For prevention of rust, completely dust the plants with lime, preferably in early morning. . “Lily of the Valley.”—Your plant is attacked with antirrhinum fire blight. Burn ail plants that are attacked. This is one of the new diseases attacking antirrhinums. Yes, gardening is sometimes very trying. “Young Gardener."—l will be very happy to call in and see your garden when in your district again. I am sorry to hear you live so far away from any of our branches. However, just drop me a line if you need any information about your flowers. Yes, plant your daffodils straight way, but first prepare yout bed properly. Yes, rotted cow manure is splendid but must be at least six inches under the bulb. On no account must the bulb come in contact with the manure. Make a trench one foot wide and one foot deep. Fill the bottom of he trench with cow manure or old turf and then put in about six inches of soil, deep. Fill the bottom of the trench inches between them and then carefully fill in the trench with soil. If your bulbs are named, place stakes with names on alongside the bulb when planting. It is far more interesting if you know the names and it will also help you to classify them when exhibiting. I will send you a daffodil catalogue so that you can classify them. Raising from seed is very interesting and later I will give you details of this.

to other members. In this way you will be doing the right thing and helping the Circle. "UNCLE WAL.”

WESTMERE-BRUNSWICK. The W.B.C.G.C. are to have a garden afternoon at Mrs. J. Brownlie's, Brunswick, on Saturday, February 18 How to arrange a floating bowl will be demonstrated by Mrs. J. Shanks and most interesting competitions have been arranged. We would like all little members to bring some flowers for the hospital bunches and also to bring a cup and plate as usual for afternoon tea. LETTERLAND. Ron. Ammundsen. Thank, you, Ron., for the bulbs. It was very thoughtful of you to send your spare bulbs along for some other member to enjoy.

Permanent link to this item
Hononga pūmau ki tēnei tūemi

https://paperspast.natlib.govt.nz/newspapers/WC19390211.2.131.6

Bibliographic details
Ngā taipitopito pukapuka

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume 83, Issue 35, 11 February 1939, Page 13

Word count
Tapeke kupu
1,622

CHILDREN’S GARDEN CIRCLE Wanganui Chronicle, Volume 83, Issue 35, 11 February 1939, Page 13

CHILDREN’S GARDEN CIRCLE Wanganui Chronicle, Volume 83, Issue 35, 11 February 1939, Page 13

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