NEXT WEEK’S GUIDE

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume 83, Issue 35, 11 February 1939, Page 13

NEXT WEEK’S GUIDE

THE FLOWER GARDEN. This month we confidently anticipate a general improvement viiiich will materially assist development of autumn flowers. Summer display is ruined, but autumn display can be saved and can be excellent if advice is closely followed. Check over all ornamental trees and shrubs, hedge plants and roses. See they are upright and firm in the ground and that soil is packed tightly about the collar. This is an elementary essential in garden practice. Evergreen shrubs which have grown too large for their present situations should be trimmed, Weight being relieved in consequence, and they will recover before winter. Dahlias require daily attention in tying of shoots, removal of weak lateral growths, to admit air and prevent overcrowding. Cut spent blooms, disbud with caution and keep surface soil open by regular hoeing. Michaelmas daisies, perennial phlox, rudbeckias, heleniums, helianthus, hardy chrysanthemums and gladioli all require attention in staking and tying. Where this had previously been attended to the ties are strained and re-tying is advisable. Asters require individual attention in staking and tying; every growth should be permitted room to develop its lateral branches. Sweet peas will last in flower longer if their diet is changed. One ounce of sulphate of ammonia to two gallons of water wi|l assist in producing a fresh crop of blossom and longer stems. Apply weak stimulants to hollyhocks. Remove any side, or lateral, grow ths. Where rust disease is in evidence spray with a one per cent, solution of lime sulphur. Seed sown now will produce nice plants to line out at the back of Mordors in spring. The herbaceous, hardy flower or perennial border will require regular attention. Remove all growth which is finished flowering and any which is thin or useless. Stake out shoots of herbaceous plants and never allow supports to show more than is absolutely necessary. Note any rearrangements while plants are in full growth and flower; it is difficult to distinguish varieties when cut back in winter. Sow seeds of biennials and annuals for early display next season. Keep wallflowers growing vigorously; they will require feeding with sulphate of ammonia, burnt lime and sand. Snapdragons, antirrhinums, are readily increased by means of cuttings taken from lateral shoots, say, three inches in length and inserted in sandy soil. Keep them close for four weeks, then, gradually, admit air to strengthen. Cuttings yield sturdy, stocky plants true to colour and type, retaining the good characteristics of the parent. They flower well in advance of spring-sown seedlings, to which they are much to be preferred. Plants such as penstemons, caleolarias, geraniums, phlox, verbenas and armeria may be increased by means of cuttings made from short semi-ripe growths taken from the points of growing shoots and inserted now in sandy soil. Early selection and planting of spring flowering bulbs is to be desired, though they can be planted as late as June. The shorter the period they are out of the ground in their new quarters the better will be the flowers. THE VEGETABLE GARDEN. It is now time to pay attention to sowings for autumn, winter and spring. Onions, cabbage, cauliflowers, Brussels sprouts, spinach, lettuce, turnips and carrots are most important. To sow now ensures rapid growth before winter. Another sowing of cabbage is recommended to make good any failures and allow for successional plantings. Turnips of a hardy variety sown now will yield ample supplies in winter. Sowing may be continued through the month as some will mature rapidly. Film ground, a dressing of dry wood ash and soot are essential. Sow tripoli onions and prickly spinach through the month. Lettuce are well suited for all conditions. Early horn carrots may be sown still at intervals for pulling young or for use in spring. Sow Brussels sprouts to stand in the seed bed until spring, when they can then be transplanted. Remove any tide growths or yellow leaves from celery and dust the plants overhead each week with soot. A loose tie under the leaves assists in development of straight stems. Celery is mulched to blanch and this operation should not be performed until growth is nearly completed as very little is made afterwards. Never use dry soil, it invariably leads to “bolting." If the rough outer skins of onions are removed it will permit the finished skin to ripen and develop that nut brown colour. Parsley will benefit from a dusting of soot. When old plants commence to seed remove them; the quality of leaves very rapidly deteriorates. Make a final sowing and sow thinly. Remove seed heads from rhubarb, clean over beds and take away all dead leaves. A mulch will assist crowns to strengthen. Marrows and pumpkins may lose flowers this season because of the excessive moist and cool conditions or through the non-fertilization of flowers. When pollen is dry collect some on a camel hair brush and draw it across the pistils of female flowers. The hoe must be used constantly to keep weeds down and to stir the soil. This is particularly necessary following the conditions of recent weeks. “ *i beral <luantitics of savoys, ground cleared of second early nna -Tn ln f n '-°. sultablc ’ Tbos< ‘ Panted late develop firm heads and withstand coid or wet, while earlier batches split to pieces at once £ rC ™ s Sti " be planted attend *'>«■» at once. Plant firmly and afford ample room. Congestion is sure to encourage disease. 10 •n l4 “ , ibl P° rtant to ke< 5P winter greens straight. Aid in support i wi 1 certainly be required for Brussels sprouts and curly kale (borecole). THE FRUIT GARDEN. If in doubt whether apples and pears are ready to gather cut onen 4 “ t - to develop “ .r? mak e an onslaught on any tree is to be denrecatel Rv ambitious priming a tree can be thrown out of balance If in 5 ' “Xg^s^Z r t fOr the SPaCe additional light and air is thus adnJZ " thCrS 011 soil is Zm"^X a "t d enSUre are “ P^ht