TRIP TO WAITARA.

Wanganui Chronicle, Volume 6, Issue 288, 17 April 1862, Page 4

TRIP TO WAITARA.

During the contest at Taranaki we have heard a good deal of the dii’ect road from this to New Plymouth by the ■Wanganui and Waitara Rivers. The following account of this road we are favoured with by the Rev. B. K. Taylor of this place, and as there has been no previous account of it published, so far as we arc aware, it will be found intei’esting. Speaking generally, the route is nearly due north up the Wanganui, then west along the ridge of hills to the Waitara, continuing in the same direction down the river to the coast. Feb. Oth. —We started from Pntilci, on our journey to the Waitara. Our crew consisted of a man and two boys, so that we proceeded but slowly up the river, and only got as far as Raorikia just in time to have tent pitched, and evening service before dark. We had a long talk with the natives about the mjavara-i. This delusion has gradually spread amongst them, —commencing up the river about a year ago, it has at length reached the sea. The natives firmly believe that the lizards crawl into them, , and prey upon their vitals, and thus cause all their diseases. This is quite a; revival of one of their ancient superstitions. They say we are to resist the Devil, and he will flee from us, therefore they do resist him by killing the lizards, which they identify with him. Others say that hitherto they have not formally renounced their idolatrous worship, and hence they are in some measure still under the power of those evil spirits which they formerly worshipped, and when they have taken off the remaining portion of the tapu, by these ceremonies, then those evil spirits will no longer have any power to injure them. It, is surprising the extent to which they are carried away by the delusion. All the way up the river the most picturesque spots are quite disfigured by patches cleared of trees and shrubs and burnt, where they have been searching for lizards. There is a kind of clairvoyant amongst them, who is called a prophet, and professes to know where the reptile is, and having- pointed out its abode, the search is immediately commenced, the trees are chopped down, and a large circular hole is dug, and it is generally contrived that a lizard is found there, which is then burnt with much ceremony, and its- ashes carefully collected and sprinkled over potatoes, that have been cooked in a native oven for the occasion. All partake of them, and having eaten the ashes, they suppose they have destroyed the power of the evil spirit, and thus have warded off diseases from them and their children. Feb. Bth. —An unpleasant and showery day. We reached Pipiriki about 4 p.rn., and were cordially welcomed by all. Feb. Ilf A.—We left for Utapu, which place we reached about six. The Utapu people are mostly lizard eaters, and have recommenced tatooing. We had a long discussion with them, and endeavoured to show the absurdity and evil of both practices, and they promised to give up tatooing. We proceeded on our way up the river, making an early start after the morning service. The scenery here is perfectly beautiful, and assumes quite a different character ; the river runs through a deep ravine, with steep walled sides, and clothed with forest to the flood mark; in many places large trees quite over-hang the river, and add much to the beauty of the landscape. We here saw a great curiosity—a branched tree fern,' the heads wrve quite distinct from each other. The stream is wider though shallower than yesterday, and has fewer rapids, though the fall is considerable. We arrived at Mataiwhetu between thr-e and, four, and after dining on the pebbly be „ch with a large party of natives from Pipiriki, who b.a,ye. come to hunt pigs up the Tangarakau, which here falls into the Wanganui. Thu lmtiyes say it is a very long stream, with mrny waterfalls, and a thick seam of coal cropping out 941 the aides. We climbed the hill with drj,culty to the deserted pah, and there took up cmr- quarters for the night. Feb. I2tk. —A pouring wet day, which prevented -our proceeding on our joip J^ay. Feb. 13 in. —We held a consultation, as to what was to be done. The morning was as wet as ever, hut it cleared; up at npon, the rivers feeing much swollen, <vß,d the steep hills so slippery. As there would be, no. canoe, for us here, were we to return this, \ya\% the natives proposed that 1 shoulc\ return ty the Ngati-a-uanui district, to which 1 consented, as an opportunity would thus bp. afforded me of visiting this part of my district, which has hitherto been closed to ministers. ’ A very rough journey through the wood. As the road lay along the mountain there was much climbing. A great part of the way- was quite park-like in its scenoryT—grass and underwood, with splendid trees; then again dense forest, and the path entangled with roots; —making locomotion very difficult; —then steep and slippery ascents and descents, with a great deal of mud from the rain and dripping trees. We passed over several bridges of native manufacture, made of the stems of the fern tree ; and in one place, more difficult than the rest, there was a hand rail to get up the bank, down which quite a stream was trickling. The rivulets rau in deep fissures, and we crossed at a great height from the swollen and roaring torrents. Many of the trees with their roots formed natural bridges. My natives flagged, and a halt was twice proposed, but 1 urged sleeping on the banks of the Wangaraomoaa, which place we reached an hour before dark. The stream was much swollen, but not so much as we expected,—indeed, the waters had already considerably subsided The bank on this side is a clay wall, the upper part of which is clothed with graceful ferns, and this again crowned with shrubs, The descent to the river is effected by a rude ladder full 30 feet high. Some of the natives made preparations for eel fishing, and it was surprising how soon they converted sticks and baric into tackle; the others arranged; our quarters for the highfc Feb. 14 th. —About eight we waded the river. The ford is at the junction of the Kuri with the the Wanga Moznoua. The Kuri was- deep and very cola, the banks are - perpendicular, and it runs from the centre of the forest through a deep fissure. The Wanga Momona was not so cold, and shallower; but so rapid, that I should scarcely have maintained my footing had I not had a native on either side to assist me. We had a good fire on the other side, and as soon a» we were dr}-, again started on our journey. The road all the day was very rough,

and nothing but difficultascents and descent®* the matted roots forming quite a network, an a rendering our progress very slow. We passed a large and curiously shaped rata, with various articles of clothing tied round its trunk. It is a sort of fetish or ancestral tree. Each person passing it for the first time is expected to tie on it an article of dress of some sort, in token of respect to the ancestor, or as a sign of mourning for him; and should the cnstom be omitted, the natives say it will be sure to rain. Accord-; xngly, one of my boys being a tauhou (stranger), up and tied an old soldier’s coat on it. Some distance further, on one of the greatest heights, are • two stone 9, one in the form of a man’s face, a very tolerable profile,—and the other, with some marks, said to represent the moho (tattoo), Every new comer is expected to hoivfi or rub noses with this old ancestor also — or to throw him a green branch, lest it should rain. These old customs are an indirect evidence of the elevation of these ranges, which it would appear intercept every passing shower, — but all our attention bestowed on these venerable gentlemen was lost, for it did not stop the rain. From the highest spot we had a tolerable view of Tongariro and the. adjacent heights, though it was too cloudy to see the peaks, which I regretted much, as this would have been a great addition to the magnificent prospect, a perfect sea of dense forest ranges,—the one we were on being as high as the others, and runninrr nearly cast and west. In the heat of the daj% when climbing one of the most rugged ridges, as we approached the top, I happened to say 1 was thirsty, and Tarn said, “There is water near,” and pointed to a wide spreading beech tree and said, “There h the water.” I looked round the tree, but it stands on a sharp ridge, nor could I see any appearance of water until ho drew- my attention to a little hole with a wooden tube in it. There seems to be a large cavity within the trunk full of water, and this is a well-known drinking fountain for the thirsty traveller. They seem perfectly at home in these mountain forests, and know the locality of every spring near the road, and often in the least expected place they point them out. Towards afternoon, we began to descend, and soon reached the Mangarewa, which we crossed several times. There was a good deal of water in it, but I got over very well with the aid of one of my natives. We also, came to many smaller streams, with fern, tree bridges over them; indeed, the road seems to be tolerably frequented. Many of the ascents from, aud descents to, these streams were very steep and difficult, and so slippery that I was obliged to pull myself up. by- the trees and ferns. At length, night coming on, we halted at a place called MoJpouri. Tt~ was -a very tiring day. Eleven hours very rough walking. After supper and. prayers, Tarn could not resist the temptation to fish for eels; this being a.fampus stream, for-them, though he was very-tired, Feb. loth, —We started soon after-six, x with every threatening for rain, and, soon after it poured in torrents, and continued; to, do so. all day long, and the discomfort of a twelve lumps’ march without a dry thread on,, in a dripping forest,, pouring rain, and a rough and precipitous road, may ho more easily imagined than do-, scribed. *Wo crossed over-several ranges, and towards the middle of the day, descended to. a lower land, and travelled along; a heavily timbered fiat. Then, again, more ridges and several sti;eam.s —one very deep, or rather the eon- : finance of two, named Matahau. The water was rapidly rising, and in an hour or two more would have been impassable* as it was, it was nearly up to the shoulders. At length, about : six, wet and weary, we arrived on the banks of ; the Wnitarn. In fine weather, this must be a ' most beautiful spot. The vegetation is veryrank, ancl the shrubs and tress quits overb ,ng the water, but, this day the rain quite d? .up a one’s ardour for fine scenery. I noticed jev .ral magnificent; fern trees, some new to r .e, * uhers richly clafi all the way up the stem w ; '.a delj.-_ cate aud beautiful smal'er fern', farming- a. splendid pyramid, crowned wit v . its umbreßashaped head. A girl brought .is canoe oyer, and soon landed us on the r'.uer side. We were heartily welcomed with *. loud and prolonged tang:; the tears flowed. a 3 plentifully as the rain. The men stoo'. erect, bud the. women stooped almost dor ole Meanwhile, I was anxious to find drr quarters, and get rid of my, dripping clothe* ; md, at length, after the greeting was o'er, aim host, Te Kapihnna, provided me wi*' l a house where, to pitch my tent, and they mi - xed -with, each other in their efforts tc* ur.iie me. as comfortable as they could. Th'-.y fired their guns to announce m3* arriva* to the people, of the next village. I remain A toiir days; with the Mfnitara natives, div’ Jirg my time. with at Wangahau anil Puke nahoa. There, are four pahs in. this district,- which is about two days’ journey from Nr <v PlyniQpth. The entire population of these d oes not exceed; 18Q. They have built a beautiful little, church at the Pukemahoe, in which I held, regular service while there. The3 r had window fraip.es and glass, > which they bronght from the town. The floods bping sq. great* the natives declared it would be impossible to cross the. raiipo swamps in the Ngatiruanui district, • anil therefore. I was compelled to return the same way 1 came. We were longer, however, in the wood, my natives suffering from boils. We were fortunate in meeting with a canoe on the Wanganui, and having passed the Sunday at Utapu, we. arrived at Putiki late.on Monday night.