CARNATIONS

Wairarapa Times-Age, 5 February 1941, Page 9

CARNATIONS

SOME EARLY HISTORY. HINTS ON GROWING The original carnation was known for several centuries before the Christian era and was described as early as 300 B.C. The genus was given the name Dianthus from the Greek Dios, divine and anthos. a flower. The variations in the flower are the result of continuous cultivation under artificial and highly favourable conditions, producing in the first place. well-marked varieties which are perpetuated by means of cuttings or layers. From them by means of cross-breeding distinct races have been evolved, gradually showing a wider range of colour and habit. For example, there is the perpetual or tree carnation, which has a strong main stem or stems from which young growths arise like the branches of a tree. They are grown mainly for flowering under glass in the winter when the flowers are much appreciated for their decorative value. In this climate they are perfectly hardy and from a collection it is possible to cut flowers; most months of the year. They are propagated by means of cuttings, which are rooted in spring from pot-grown plants, or later on from those growing in the open. The perpetual border carnation is the result of crossing the ordinary border carnation with the perpetual flowering kinds. This resulted in retaining the perfectly formed flower, colouring and compact low growing habit of the border carnation and the perpetual growth and freedom of flowering of the perpetual flowering carnation, and yet have a hardy, robust-growing plant for outdoor cultivation. It is a type well worthy of a place in the flower garden. It can be propagated by means of cuttings or the lower shoots can be layered. >

The Border Carnation has been in cultivation for a long time and during the sixteenth century it formed one of the principal flowers in the English gardens. It. like all other flowers, has been greatly improved during recent years, and in its many forms is a most useful plant both for a display in the flower garden and to provide cut flowers, it being specially suitable as a buttonhole flower. It is perfectly hardy, will grow in any soil, but especially one to which considerable limo and sea sand has been added and as it flowers between the two rose seasons. and it likes the conditions which are provided for the Queen of Flowers, it is most useful in the rose garden. An association of roses and carnations is i an ideal one. and as there are usually I open spaces between newly-planted roses for the first year after planting tliis is the place for the earnations. They can be planted out in their flowering positions in the autumn, or they can be potted up into small pots and wintered in a frame or lined out i in a sheltered bed in the nursery or reserve garden s*nd planted out in their flowering positions in the spring. They have to bo protected from rabbits, for if there is one in the district it will; find the carnations and soon make a | mess of them. Birds are also trouble-j some in early spring, bin fortunately] black cotton can frighten them otT. Il | takes more than black cotton to keep] a rabbit away. j

Shortly after planting they should be provided with support of some kind, and for this purpose there is nothing better than the spiral wire stakes. They require no tieing. the stem being twisted round as it develops. T<> get good flowers it is advisable to thin out the buds to one if for exhibition purposes, but to two or three for ordinary garden purposes.

Though border carnations are hardy perennials, and they will continue to grow and flower for several years, the best results tire obtained from young

plants raised by layering every year .About this time the young shoots which arise round the base of the flower stem are sufficiently developed to be ready for layering, an operation which is performed with a very sharp, thin-bladed knife, a number of wire pegs like gigantic hair pins, a hand fork and a quantity of soil composed of half sand quarter loam and quarter leafmould. If leafmould is not available, soil ami sand will do Hirst, fork up the soil round the base of the plant, and put on a layer of about two inches of the sandy soil. Next select the shoots which are the easiest to bend down, and about two or three inches from the main stem. where there is a slight bend, remove the loaves from two joints or nudes With the knife, begin to cut into the' skin on the lower side, about halfwax- > through the stem ami about halfway i to the next node. This will form ti I tongue about an inch in length, and.' holding n away from the stem, pn-s--! it down into the mound of prepared! sod and fix it there with the win- peg i Trim off the ends of the leaves, anti’ when a number, not more than six on j one plant, arc pegged down, cover | with an meh of the prepared soil and' water. The sap v. ill continue to rtsei from the roots through the half-cut ■, stem to tile leax’i-s whei'i' p. will tie, elabontted. anti on returning down the; stem portion will go into tlie tingtiv.! where it will, first of al! heal up thej cut surface and then a- it accumulates roots will be formed at the cut nothin abut!’ -ax weeks imdvr m'dmary conditions roots should be formed and the layer can bo severed fii>m the > ar-j ent plant. In tin- autumn the r.-m-d layer ran ■ lifted and planted <mt Imed <-.r potted up